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Wonders  of  the  Yellowstone 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 


PRESENTED  BY 

PROF.  CHARLES  A.  KOFOID  AND 

MRS.  PRUDENCE  W.  KOFOID 


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WONDERS 


OF  THX 


YELLOWSTONE. 


EDITBD    BT 

JAMES  RICHARDSON. 
New  Editton,  with  new  Map  and  lUustratunu, 


NEW    YQ-RK 

CHAELES  SCRIBNER'S  SONS 

1912 


t. 


Biitered  according  to  Act  of  Oungress,  m  t He  year  ISTS,  by 

SCRIBNER,  ARMSTRONG  &  CO., 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Conisreeb  a^  Washingtos 


CONTENTS. 


VAOE 

CHAPTER   L 

rhe  Crown   of  the    Continent — Yellowstone  Lake — Ancient 
Volcanic  Action — Modem  Thermal  Phenomena 1 


CHAPTER    n. 

Early  Explorations — Lewis  and  Clarke's  Expeditions — Trap- 
pers' Yarns — Colonel  Raynold's  Expedition — The  Wash- 
bum  Expedition — Colonel  Bai-low's  Expedition — Dr. 
Hay  den's  Geological  Survey 6 

CHAPTER    UL 

Route  from  Fort  Ellis  to  Bottlers'  Ranch— Fort  EUis — Pro- 
spect from  the  Divide — Snowy  Mountain — Trail  Creek 
— Pyramid  Mountain — The  Bottler  Brothers — Yellow- 
stone VaUey 15 

CHAPTER    IV. 

Bottlers'  Ranch  to  Gardiner's  River — River  Valley — Second 
Gauou — Cinnabar  Moimtain  The  Devil's  SUde — West- 
em  Nomenclature  —Precious  Stones 2) 


M3728S0 


X  CO  :S  TENTS. 

Paqi 

CHAPTER    V. 

Hot  Spriags  of  Gardiner's  River — Third  Canon — Rapids — 
Valley  of  Gardiner's  River — Thermal  Springs— White 
]Moimtaiu— Hot  Springs — Natm-al  Bathing-pools — Dia- 
na's Bath— Liberty  Cap — Bee-hive — Extinct  Geysers — 
Beautiful  Water — Vegetation  in  Hot  Springs — iVntiquity 
of  Springs — Classification  of  Thermal  Springs , ..     27 

CHAPTER    VL 

jtftrdiner's  River  to  Grand  Canon  of  the  Yellowstone — 
Forks  of  Grardiner's  River — Gallatin  Mountains — Ba- 
saltic Columns^Falls  of  Gardiner's  River — Mountain 
Prospect — Over  the  Divide — Agatized  Wood — Delightful 
Climate — Mountain  Verdure — Volcanic  Ridges — Ravines 
— Third  Canon  of  the  Yellowstone — Hell-roaring  River 
— Hell-roaring  Mountain — East  Fork  of  the  Yellowstone 
—Ancient  Springs  and  Calcareous  Deposits — First  Bridge 
over  the  Yellowstone — Rock  Cutting — Tower-creek  Canon 
—Column  Rock— The  DevH's  Den— Tower  Falls— The 
Devil's  Hoof — Mineral  Spriags — Mouth  of  Grand  Canon    13 

CHAPTER    VIL 

Over  Mount  Washburn  to  Falls  of  the  Yellow  stone — Ascent 
of  Mount  Washburn — Extensive  View — Steam  Puffs — 
Elephant's  Back — Grand  Caiion — Yellowstone  Basin — 
The  Three  Tetons — First  View  of  Yellowstone  Lake — 
Madison  Mountains — Gallatin  Range — Emigrant  Peak — 
Geological  History  of  the  Yellowstone  Basin — Ancient 
Volcanic  Action — Descent  of  Mount  Washburn — Hell- 
broth  Springs— The  Devil's  Caldron— Cascade  Creek— 
The  Devil's  Den— Crystal  Cascade 61 

CHAPTER    VHL 

'fhe  Grand  Canon  and  the  Falls  of  the  Yellowstone — De- 
scription of  Grand  Canon — Descent  into  the  Canon — 
History  of  Grand  Caiion— Lower  Falls — Upper  Falls ...     78 


CONTENTS,  xi 

CHAPTER    IX. 

From  the  Falls  to  the  Lake — River  above  the  Falls— Altun 
Creek—  Boiling  Springs— Crater  Hill — A  Narrow  Escape 
—The  Locomotive  Jet — Sulphur  Springs— Mud  Puffs- 
No  \'egetation— Temperature  of  Springs— Muddy  Gey- 
ser—Mud Volcano— Mud-sulphur  Springs— The  Grotto 
—The  Giant's  Caldron— Movements  of  Muddy  Geyser..    90 

CHAPTER    X. 

Yellowstone  Lake — Setting  of  the  Lake — Shape  of  the  Lake 
—Shores  of  the  Lake— Yellowstone  Trout— Wonns  in 
Trout— Waterfowl— The  Guide-bird— Fauna  of  Yellow- 
stone Basin— Islands  in  the  Lake— The  First  Explorers   106 

CHAPTER    XI. 

Around  the  Yellowstone  Lake— Hot  Springs  of  Pelican 
Creek— Hot  Springs  of  Steam  Point— Fire  Slashes- 
Difficult  Travelling— Little  Invulnerable- Poetiy  in  the 
Wilderness — Volcanic  Peaks — Mounts  Langford,  Doane, 
and  Stephenson — Brimstone  Basin — Alum  Creek — Up- 
per Yellowstone— Wind  River  Mountains — VaUey  of  Up- 
per Yellowstone— The  Five  Forks — Bridger's  Lake — 
Yellowstone  Mountains — Heart  Lake — Madison  Lake — 
Mount  Sheridan — Flat  Mountain — Bridger's  *' Two 
Ocean  Ri^er" — A  Companion  lost — Lakes  and  Springs 
— Hot  Springs  on  the  West  Shore — Bridge  Creek — 
Dead  Springs— The  Elephant's  Back 114 

CHAPTER    Xn. 

Upper  Geyser  Basin— The  Grand  Geyser  Region— Firehole 
Ij,iver — Madison  Lake— Mountains  about  the  Lake — Cas- 
cades—The Geysers— Old  Faithful— The  Bee-hive— The 
Giantess— Casile  Geyser— Grand  Geyser— The  Saw-miU 
—The  Comet— The  Grotto— The  Pyramid— The  Punch 
Bowl— Black  Sand  Geyser— Riverside  Geyser— The  Fan 
—The  Sentinels— Iron  Spring  Creek— Soda  Geyser      ..  133 


lii  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    Xni. 

Lower  Geyser  Basin — Down  the  Firehole — Prismatic  Hot 
Springs — The  Cauldron — Old  Spring  Basins — The  Conch 
Spring — Horn  Geyser — Bath  Spring — The  Cavern — Mud 
Springs — Thud  Geyser — Fountain  Geyser — Mud  Pot — 
Fissure  Spring— White  Dome  Geyser — Bee-hive — Petri- 
faction—  Hot  Spring  Vegetation — Cold  Spring — Gene- 
ral View  of  the  Basin— The  Twin  Buttes— Fall  of  the 
Fairies — Eainbow  Spring 162 

CHAPTER    XIV. 

Natural  History  of  Geysers  and  other  Thermal  Springs — Ice- 
land Geysers — History  of  The  Geyser — The  Strokr — 
Eruption  of  the  Geyser — Growth  of  the  Geyser — Mechan- 
ism of  Geysers — Artificial  Geysers— Life  and  Death  of 
Geysers — Laugs — New  Zealand  Hot  Springs — Te  Tarata 
— Hot  Springs  of  the  Waikato  —  Origin  of  Mineral 
Springs — Chemistry  of  Mineral  Springs 180 

CHAPTER    XV. 

Mr.  Everts's  Thirty-seven  Days  of  Peril — Lost— Loss  of 
Horse — Midnight  Dangers — Starvation — Return  to  Lake 
— No  Food  in  the  Midst  of  Plenty — Bessie  Lake — This- 
tle Roots — Hunted  by  a  Lion — Storms — First  Fire — 
Vain  Efforts  to  find  Food — Attempt  to  cross  the  Moun- 
tains—The Lost  Shoe — Forest  on  Fire — Hallucination — 
Turned  back — The  Doctor — Physiological  Transforma- 
tions— Descending  the  River — Loss  of  Lens — Discovery 
and  Rescue 199 

CHAPTER    XVL 

Our  National  Park  — The  Yellowstone  Reservation  —  Dr. 
Haydeii's  Report— Text  of  Act  of  Congress — Appoint- 
ment of  Hon.  N.  P.  Langford  Superintendent  of  Park. .  25C 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

— •— 

Great  Gbtser  Basin Front 

Hot  Springs  of  Gardner's  River 27 

Diana's  Bath,  Gardner's  River 31 

Liberty  Cap,  Gardner's  River 34 

Extinct  Geyser,  East  Fork  op  this  Yellowstone        .        .    50 

The  Devil's  Hoof 58 

Getting  a  Specimen 72 

The  Devil's  Den    . 76 

Upper  Falls  of  the  Yellowstone 86 

The  Mud  Volcano 100 

Yellowstone  Lake    .        . 106 

The  First  Boat  ON  Yellowstone  Lake       .        .        .        .113 

Breaking  Through 122 

The  Grand  Geyser,  Fire-hole  Basin 144 

The  Giant  Geyser 153 

Fan  Geyser,  Fire  hole  Basin       .        .  .        .        .       1 58 

The  Beehive .        .  161 

Grand  Canon  and  Lowter  Falls  op  the  Yellowstone    .     194 

Imaginary  Companions .        236 

The  Giantess,  Fire-hole  Basin    .  .  25S 

MAPS. 

Hayden's  Geological  Survey  of  Yellowstone  National 
Park. 


CHAPTER   L 

THE  CROWN  OF  THE  CONTINENT. 

IN  the  northwest  corner  of  the  Territory  of  Wy- 
oming, about  half  way  between  the  Mississippi 
River  and  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  in  the  same  lati- 
tude as  the  State  of  New  York,  the  grand  Rocky 
Mountain  system  culminates  in  a  knot  of  peaks 
and  ranges  enclosing  the  most  remarkable  lake  ba- 
sin in  the  world.  From  this  point  radiate  the  chief 
mountain  ranges,  and  three  of  the  longest  rivers  of 
the  Continent — the  Missouri,  the  Columbia,  and 
the  Colorado. 

On  the  south  are  the  Wind  River  Mountains,  a 
snow-clad  barrier  which  no  white  man  has  ever 
crossed.  On  the  east  is  the  Snowy  Mountain 
Range,  and  the  grand  cluster  of  volcanic  peaks  be- 
tween it  and  Yellowstone  Lake.  On  the  west  is 
the  main  divide  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  On  the 
north  are  the  bold  peaks  of  the  Gallatin  Ranges 


21  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONE, 

and  the  parallel  ridges  which  give  a  northward  di- 
rection to  all  the  great  tributaries  of  the  Missouri 
from  this  region. 

Set  like  a  gem  in  the  centre  of  this  snow-rimmed 
crown  of  the  continent,  is  the  loveliest  body  of 
fresh  water  on  the  globe,  its  dark-blue  surface  at 
an  elevation  greater  than  that  of  the  highest  clouds 
that  fleck  the  azure  sky  of  a  summer's  day,  over 
the  tops  of  the  loftiest  mountains  of  the  East.  Its 
waters  teem  with  trout,  and  the  primeval  forests 
that  cover  the  surrounding  country  are  crowded 
with  game.  But  these  are  the  least  of  its  attrac- 
tions.  '  It  is  the  wildness  and  grandeur  of  the  en- 
closing mountain  scenery,  and  still  more  the  cu- 
rious, beautiful,  wonderful  and  stupendous  natural 
phenomena  which  characterize  the  region,  that 
have  raised  it  to  sudden  fame,  and  caused  it  to  be 
set  apart  by  our  national  government  as  a  grand 
national  play-ground  and  museum  of  unparalleled, 
indeed  incomparable,  marvels,  free  to  all  men  for 
all  time. 

Evidences  of  ancient  volcanic  action  on  the 
grandest  scale  are  so  abundant  and  striking 
throughout  the  lake  basin,  that  it  has  been  looked 
upon  as  the  remains  of  a  mammoth  crater,  forty 
miles  across.  It  seems,  however,  to  have  been 
rather  the  focus  of  a  multitude  of  craters.     "It  ia 


THE  OR  OWN   OF   THE    CONTINENT,  3 

probable,"  says  the  United  States  geologist,  Dr. 
Hajden,  with  his  usual  caution,  "  that  during  the 
Pliocene  period  the  entire  country  drained  by  the 
sources  of  the  Yellowstone  and  the  Columbia  was 
the  scene  of  volcanic  activity  as  great  as  that  of 
any  portion  of  the  globe.  It  might  be  called  one 
vast  crater,  made  up  of  a  thousand  smaller  volcanic 
vents  and  fissures,  out  of  which  the  fluid  interior 
of  the  earth,  fragments  of  rock  and  volcanic  dust, 
were  poured  in  unlimited  quantities.  Hundreds  of 
the  nuclei  or  cones  of  these  volcanic  vents  are  now 
remaining,  some  of  them  rising  to  a  height  of  10,- 
000  to  11,000  feet  above  the  sea.  Mounts  Doane, 
Longford,  Stevenson,  and  more  than  a  hundred 
other  peaks,  may  be  seen  from  any  high  point 
on  either  side  of  the  basin,  each  of  which  formed 
a  centre  of  effusion." 

All  that  is  left  of  the  terrific  forces  which  threw 
up  these  lofty  mountains  and  elevated  the  entire 
region  to  its  present  altitude,  now  finds  issue  in  oc- 
casional earthquake  shocks,  and  in  the  innumera- 
ble hot  springs  and  geysers,  whose  description 
makes  up  so  large  a  portion  of  this  book  of  won- 
ders. Nowhere  else  in  the  world  can  the  last- 
named  phenomena  be  witnessed  on  so  grand  a 
scale,  in  such  limitless  variety,  or  amid  scenes  so 
marvellous  in  beauty,  so  wild  and  unearthly  in  sa- 


4  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONE. 

vage  grandeur,  so  fascinating  in  all  that  awes  or  at- 
tracts the  lover  of  the  curious,  the  wonderful,  the 
magnificent  in  nature. 


CHAPTEE    n. 

FIRST  EXPLORATIONS. 

IN  their  exploration  of  the  headwaters  of  the 
Missouri  in  the  summer  of  1805,  the  heroic 
Captains  Lewis  and  Clarke  discovered  and  named 
the  three  terminal  branches  of  that  river — the  Jef- 
ferson, the  Madison,  and  the  Gallatin;  then  as- 
cending the  first  named  to  its  springs  among  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  they  crossed  the  lofty  ridge  of 
the  divide  and  pursued  their  investigations  along 
the  Columbia  to  the  sea.  The  following  summer 
they  returned,  separately  exploring  the  two  main 
branches  of  the  Great  River  of  the  Northwest 
each  perpetuating  the  name  and  fame  of  his  bro- 
tlier  explorer  by  calling  a  river  after  him.  Ascend- 
ing the  southern,  or  Lewis  Fork,  Captain  Clarke 
recrossed  the  mountains  to  Wisdom  River,  (a 
branch  of  the  Jefferson,)  then  traversed  the  coun 
try   of  the  Jefferson,  the  Madison  and  the  Gall  a 


6  WONDERS  OF  THE  YELLOWSTONE. 

tin  to  the  Rochejaune,  or  Yellowstone,  which  he 
followed  to  its  junction  with  the  Missouri,  where 
he  rejoined  Captain  Lewis.  The  map  of  the  coun- 
try explored  by  these  brave  men,  makes  the  source 
of  the  Yellowstone  a  large  lake,  doubtless  from  in- 
formation received  from  the  Indians,  but  they 
seem  to  have  heard  nothing  of  the  marvels  alon^' 
the  upper  reaches  of  the  river  and  around  the  lake 
from  which  it  flows. 

In  later  years — especially  after  the  discovery  of 
the  Montana  gold-mines  had  drawn  to  the  upper 
valleys  of  the  Missouri  an  adventurous,  gold-seek- 
ing population,  who  scoured  the  mountains  in  all 
directions — rumors  of  burning  plains,  spouting 
springs,  great  lakes  and  other  natural  wonders, 
came  down  from  the  unknown  regions  up  the  Yel- 
lowstone. And  not  content  with  these,  the  imagi- 
nation was  freely  drawn  on,  and  the  treasure  val- 
leys of  the  Arabian  Nights  were  rivalled,  if  not 
reproduced.  Our  over-venturous  party,  hotly  pur- 
sued by  Indians,  escaped,  report  said,  by  travel- 
ling night  after  night  ,by  the  brilliant  light  of  a 
huge  diamond  providentially  exposed  on  a  moun- 
tain. A  lost  trapper  turned  up  after  protracted 
wandering  in  this  mysterious  region,  his  pockets 
stuffed  with  nuggets  of  gold  gathered  in  a  stream 
which  he  could  never  find  again.     More  astound- 


FIRST  EXPLORATION'S.  7 

ing  still  was  a  valley  which  instantly  petrified 
whatever  entered  it.  Rabbits  and  sage-hens,  even 
Indians  were  standing  about  there,  like  statuary, 
among  thickets  of  petrified  sage-brush,  whose 
stony  branches  bore  diamonds,  rubies,  sapphires, 
emeralds  and  other  gems  by  the  thousand,  as  large 
as  walnuts.  *'I  tell  you,  sir,"  said  one  who  had 
been  there,  to  Colonel  Raynolds,  "it  is  true,  for  I 
gathered  a  quart  myself  and  sent  them  down  the 
country." 

The  first  earnest  attempt  to  explore  the  valley  of 
the  upper  Yellowstone  was  made  in  1859,  by 
Colonel  Raynolds,  of  the  Corps  of  Engineers. 
His  expedition  passed  entirely  around  the  Yellow- 
stone basin,  but  could  not  penetrate  it.  In  his  re- 
port to  the  War  Department,  he  says  : 

*'  It  was  my  original  desire  to  go  from  the  head 
of  Wind  Eiiver  to  the  head  of  the  Yellowstone, 
keeping  on  the  Atlantic  slope,  thence  down  the 
Yellowstone,  passing  the  lake,  and  across  by  the 
Gallatin  to  the  three  forks  of  the  Missouri.  Brid- 
ger  said  at  the  outset  that  this  would  be  impossi- 
ble, and  that  it  would  be  necessary  to  cross  over  to 
the  headwaters  of  the  Columbia  and  back  again  to 
the  Yellowstone.  I  had  not  previously  believed 
that  crossing  the  main  crest  twice  would  be  more 
easily  accomplished  than  the  transiit  ovei  wh^t  \ra/ 


8  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONE, 

in  effect  only  a  spur  ;  but  the  view  from  our  first 
camp  settled  the  question  adversely  to  my  opinion 
at  once.  Directly  across  our  route  lies  a  basaltic 
ridge,  rising  not  less  than  5,000  feet  above  us,  its 
walls  apparently  vertical,  with  no  visible  pass  or 
even  canon.  On  the  opposite  side  of  this  are  the 
headwaters  of  the  Yellowstone.  Bridger  remarked 
triumphantly  and  forcibly  on  reaching  this  spot,  *  I 
told  you  you  could  not  go  through.  A  bird  can't 
fly  over  that  without  taking  a  supply  of  grub 
along.'  I  had  no  reply  to  offer,  and  mentally  con- 
ceded the  accuracy  of  the  information  of  *  the  old 
man  of  the  mountains.'    ***** 

"  After  this  obstacle  had  thus  forced  us  over  on 
the  western  slope  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  an 
effort  was  made  to  recross  and  reach  the  district  in 
question,  but  although  it  was  June,  the  immense 
body  of  snow  baffled  all  our  exertions,  and  we  were 
compelled  to  content  ourselves  with  listening  to 
marvellous  tales  of  burning  plains,  immense  lakes, 
and  boiling  springs,  without  being  able  to  verify 
these  wonders.  I  know  of  but  two  white  men  who 
claim  to  ever  have  visited  this  part  of  the  Yellow- 
stone Valley — James  Bridger  and  Robert  Mel- 
drum.  The  narratives  of  both  these  men  are  very 
remarkable,  and  Bridger,  in  one  of  his  recitals,  de- 
scribed an  immense  boiling  spring,  that  is  a  perfect 


FIRST   EXPLORATIONS.  Q 

counterpart  of  the  Geysers  of  Iceland.  A&  lie  is 
aneducated.  and  had  probably  never  heard  yf  the 
existence  of  such  natural  marvels  elsewhere,  I  have 
little  doubt  that  he  spoke  of  that  which  he  had  ac- 
tually seen.  The  burning  plains  described  by 
these  men  may  be  volcanic,  or,  more  probably, 
burning  beds  of  hgnite  similar  to  those  on  Powder 
River,  which  are  known  to  be  in  a  state  of  ignition 
....  Had  our  attempt  to  enter  this  district  been 
made  a  month  later  in  the  season,  the  snow  would 
have  mainly  disappeared,  and  there  would  have 
been  no  insurmountable  obstacles  to  overcome. 

"  I  cannot  doubt,  therefore,  that  at  no  very  dis- 
tant day  the  mysteries  of  this  region  will  be  fully 
revealed,  and  though  small  in  extent,  I  regard  the 
valley  of  the  upper  Yellowstone  as  the  most  inter- 
esting unexplored  district  of  our  widely  expanded 
country." 

Ten  years  after  Colonel  Kaynolds's  unsuccessful 
attempt  to  solve  the  problem  of  the  Yellowstone, 
a  small  party  under  Messrs.  Cook  and  Folsom  as- 
cended the  river  to  the  lake,  and  crossed  over  the 
divide  into  the  Geyser  Basin  of  the  Madison.  No 
report,  we  believe,  "was  published  of  their  discover- 
ies. At  any  rate,  the  general  public  were  indebted 
for  their  first  knowledge  of  the  marvels  of  this  re- 
gion to  an  expedition  organized  in   the  summer  oi 


10  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTON& 

1870  by  some  of  the  officials  and  leading  citizens 
of  Montana.  This  company,  led  by  General  Wash- 
burn, the  Surveyor-General  of  the  Territory,  and  ac- 
companied by  a  small  escort  of  United  States  cav- 
alry under  Lieutenant  G.  C.  Doane,  left  Fort  El- 
lis toward  the  latter  part  of  August,  and  entered 
the  valley  of  Yellowstone  River  on  the  23d.  Dur- 
ing the  next  thirty  days  they  explored  the  caiions 
of  the  Yellowstone  and  the  shores  of  Yellowstone 
Lake ;  then  crossing  the  mountains  to  the  headwa- 
ters of  the  Madison,  they  visited  the  geyser  re- 
gion of  Firehole  Eiver,  and  ascended  that  stream 
to  its  junction  with  the  Madison,  along  whose  val- 
ley they  returned  to  civilization,  confident,  as  their 
historian  wrote,  that  they  had  seen  "  the  greatest 
wonders  on  the  Continent,"  and  "  convinced  that 
there  was  not  on  the  globe  another  region  where, 
within  the  same  limits,  nature  had  crowded  so 
much  of  grandeur  and  majesty,  with  so  much  of 
novelty  and  wonder." 

Mr.  Langford's  account  of  this  expedition,  pub- 
lished in  the  second  volume  of  Scribner's  Monthly, 
and  the  report  of  Lieutenant  Doane,  printed 
some  time  after  by  the  United  States  Govern- 
ment, (Ex.  Doc.  No.  51,  41st  Congress,)  gave  to 
the  world  the  first  authentic  information  of  the 
marvels   of  this  wonderful  region.     Though   their 


FIRST   EXPLORATION'S.  U 

route  lay  through  a  terrible  wilderness,  and  most 
of  the  party  were  but  amateur  explorers  at  best, 
only  one  (Mr.  Everts)  met  with  a  serious  mishap. 
This  gentleman's  story  of  his  separation  from  the 
company,  and  his  thirty-seven  days  of  suffering 
and  perilous  wandering,  is  one  of  the  most  thrill- 
ing chapters  of  adventure  ever  written. 

The  path  fairly  broken,  and  the  romance  of  the 
Yellowstone  shown  to  have  a  substantial  basis  in 
reality,  it  was  not  long  before  others  were  ready  to 
explore  more  fully  the  magnificent  scenery  and  the 
strange  and  peculiar  phenomena  described  by  the 
adventurers  of  1870.  As  soon  as  the  following 
season  was  sufficiently  advanced  to  admit  of  ex- 
plorations among  the  mountains,  the  Chief  Engi- 
neer of  the  MiHtary  Department  of  the  Missouri, 
Brevet  Colonel  John  W.  Barlow,  set  out  for  a  two 
months'  survey  of  the  Yellowstone  Basin,  under 
special  orders  from  General  Sheridan.  His  route 
lay  along  the  river  to  the  lake ;  thence  along  the 
northern  shore  of  the  lake  to  the  hot  springs  on  its 
western  bank;  thence  across  the  mountains  west- 
ward to  the  Geyser  Basins  of  Firehole  Kiver, 
which  he  ascended  to  its  source  in  Madison  Lake ; 
thence  to  Heart  Lake,  the  source  of  Snake  River ; 
thence  across  the  mountains  to  Bridger's  Lake,  in 
the  valley  of  the  Upper  Yellowstone.     Desceiuling 


12  WONDERS   OF   THE   YELLOWSTONK 

this  stream  to  where  it  enters  Yellowstoue  Lake^ 
he  returned  by  the  east  shore  of  the  lake  to  Peli- 
can Creek  ;  thence  across  the  country  to  the  Falls 
of  the  Yellowstone  ;  thence  over  the  mountains  to 
the  East  Fork  of  the  Yellowstone,  which  he  fol- 
lowed to  its  junction  with  the  main  stream. 

In  the  meantime,  a  large  and  thoroughly-organ- 
ized scientific  party,  under  Dr.  F.  V.  Hayden,  U.  S, 
geologist,  were  making  a  systematic  survey  of  the 
region  traversed  by  Colonel  Barlow.  The  work 
done  by  this  party  is  briefly  summarized  by  Dr. 
Hayden  as  follows  ; 

"  From  Fort  Ellis,  we  passed  eastward  over  the 
divide,  between  the  drainage  of  the  Missouri  and 
Yellowstone,  to  Bottlers'  Ranch.  Here  we  estab- 
lished a  permanent  camp,  leaving  all  our  wagons 
and  a  portion  of  the  party.  A  carefal  system  of 
meteorological  observations  was  kept  at  this  local- 
ity for  six  weeks.  From  Bottlers'  Ranch  we  pro- 
ceeded up  the  valley  of  the  Yellowstone,  surveyea 
the  remarkable  hot  springs  on  Gardiner's  River, 
The  Grand  Canon,  Tower  Falls,  Upper  and  Lower 
Falls  of  the  Yellowstone,  thence  into  the  basin 
proper,  prepared  charts  of  all  the  Hot  Spring 
groups,  which  were  very  numerous,  and  continued 
up  the  river  to  the  lake.  We  then  commenced  a 
systematic  survey  of  the  lake  and  its  surroundings. 


FTRST   EXPLORATIONS.  13 

Mr.  Scbonborn,  with  his  assistant,  made  a  careful 
Burvey  of  the  lake  and  the  mountains  from  the 
shore,  and  Messrs.  ElHott  and  Carrington  sur- 
veyed and  sketched  its  shore-Hnes  from  the  water 
in  a  boat.  Careful  soundings  were  also  made,  and 
the  greatest  depth  was  found  to  be  three  hundred 
feet.  From  the  lake  I  proceeded,  with  Messrs. 
Schonborn,  Peale,  and  Elliott  to  the  Firehole 
Valley,  by  way  of  East  Fork  of  the  Madison  ; 
then  ascended  the  Firehole  Valley.  We  made 
careful  charts  of  the  Lower  and  Upper  Geyser 
Basin,  locating  all  the  principal  springs,  and  deter- 
mining their  temperatures.  We  then  returned 
over  the  mountains  by  way  of  the  head  of  Fire- 
hoJe  River,  explored  Madison  Lake,  Heart  Lake, 
etc.  After  having  completed  our  survey  of  the 
lake,  we  crossed  over  to  the  headwaters  of  the 
East  Fork  by  way  of  the  valley  of  Pelican  Creek, 
explored  the  East  Fork  to  its  junction  with  the 
main  Yellowstone,  and  thence  to  Bottlers'  Ranch, 
which  we  reached  on  the  28th  of  August.  From 
this  place  we  passed  down  the  Yellowstone,  through 
the  lower  canon,  to  the  mouth  of  Shield's  River,  to 
connect  our  work  with  that  of  Colonel  Wm.  F. 
Raynolds,  in  1860.  From  there  we  returned  to 
Fort  EUis." 

It  is  safe  to  say  that  no  exploring  expedition  on 


l4  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONE 

this  continent  ever  had  a  more  interesting  field  of 
investigation,  or  ever  studied  so  many  grand, 
curious  and  wonderful  aspects  of  nature  in  so  short 
a  time. 


CHAPTEE  rCL 

FORT  ELLIS  TO  BOTTLERS*  RANOH. 

THE  Yellowstone  tourist  leaves  the  confines  of 
civilization  at  Fort  Ellis.  This  frontier  mili- 
tary post,  situated  near  the  head  of  the  beautiful 
and  fertile  valley  of  the  East  Gallatin,  commands 
the  valleys  of  the  Yellowstone  and  the  three  forks 
of  the  Missouri — the  finest  and  most  productive 
portion  of  Montana.  On  the  east  and  north  are 
ranges  of  hills  and  mountains  which  form  the  di- 
vide between  the  waters  of  the  Yellowstone  and 
the  Missouri.  On  the  south  and  west,  the  beauti- 
ful Valley  of  the  Gallatin.  Abundant  vegetation, 
beautiful  scenery,  streams  of  pure  water  flowing 
down  the  mountain-sides  and  across  the  plains  on 
every  hand,  and  a  climate  that  can  hardly  be  sur- 
passed in  any  country,  combine  to  make  this  plea- 
sant station  one  of  the  most  charming  places  on 
the  continent. 
For  the  first  six  miles  the  road  from  Fort  Ellis 


16  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONE. 

to  the  woDdorlaad  of  the  Yellowstone  Valley  fol- 
lows the  general  course  of  the  East  Gallatin,  up 
steep  acclivities  and  through  the  defiles  of  a  hilJj 
country  to  the  crest  of  the  divide.  The  road  here 
takes  advantage  of  a  natural  pass  between  hills 
that  rise  from  six  hundred  to  twelve  hundred  feet 
above  the  road,  itself  considerably  more  elevated 
than  the  summit  of  the  White  Mountains.  From 
the  tops  of  the  hills  on  either  side  the  view  is  won- 
derfully fine  in  every  direction.  To  the  west  lies 
the  Gallatin  Valley,  with  its  cordon  of  snow- 
-capped peaks,  its  finely-timbered  water  courses, 
and  its  long,  grassy  declivities,  dotted  with  the 
habitations  of  pioneers,  and  blooming  with  the 
fruits  of  industry.  To  the  eastward  lies  the  beau- 
tiful Valley  of  the  Yellowstone,  not  yet  laid  under 
tribute  to  man.  On  the  further  side  of  this  valley 
— the  bed  of  an  ancient  lake — the  eye  takes  in  at 
a  glance  one  of  the  most  symmetrical  and  remark- 
able ranges  of  mountains  in  all  the  West.  In- 
deed, Dr.  Hayden  says,  in  describing  them  : 

**  Several  of  my  party  who  had  visited  Europe 
regarded  this  range  as  in  no  way  inferior  in  beauty 
to  any  in  that  far-famed  country.  A  series  of  cone- 
shaped  peaks,  looking  like  gigantic  pyramids,  are 
grouped  along  the  east  side  of  the  valley  for  thirty 
or  forty  miles,  with  their  bald,  dark  summits  coy- 


FORT   ELLIS    TO    BOTTLERS'    RANCH.  17 

ered  with  perpetual  snow,  the  vegetation  growing 
thinner  and  smaller  as  we  ascend  the  almost  ver- 
tical sides,  until,  long  before  reaching  the  summits, 
it  has  entirely  disappeared.  On  all  sides  deep 
gorges  have  been  gashed  out  by  aqueous  forces 
cutting  through  the  very  core  of  the  mountains, 
and  forming  those  wonderful  gulches  which  only 
the  hardy  and  daring  miner  has  ventured  to  ex- 
plore. This  range,  which  is  called  on  the  maps 
Snowy  Mountains,  forms  the  great  water-shed  be- 
tween two  portions  of  the  Yellowstone  River, 
above  and  below  the  first  canon,  and  gives  origin 
to  some  of  the  most  important  branches  of  that 
river.  From  the  summit  of  Emigrant  Peak,  one 
of  the  highest  of  these  volcanic  cones,  one  great 
mass  of  these  basaltic  peaks  can  be  seen  as  far  as 
the  eye  can  reach,  rising  to  the  height  of  10,000  to 
11,000  feet  above  the  sea.  Emigrant  Peak,  the 
base  of  which  is  cut  by  the  Yellowstone  Biver,  is 
10,629  feet  above  tide-water,  while  the  valley 
plain  near  Bottlers'  Banch,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river,  was  found  to  be  5,925  feet.  This  splen- 
did group  of  peaks  rises  5,000  feet  and  upward 
above  the  valley  of  the  Yellowstone." 

About  three  miles  from  the  divide  the  road 
strikes  the  valley  of  Trail  Creek,  a  small-sized 
trout-stream  of  great  clearness  and  purity,  flowing 


18  WONDERS    OF   TEE    YELLOWSTONE. 

RoiitheasiwarJ  to  the  Yellowstone,  between  high 
bills  wooded  at  the  summits.  Approaching  the 
river,  the  country  becomes  more  and  more  volcanic 
in  appearance,  masses  of  basaltic  lava  cropping 
out  from  the  high  ridges  on  the  right  and  left. 
Many  of  these  masses  show  a  perpendicular  front 
of  several  hundred  feet,  with  projections  resem- 
bling towers,  castles  and  the  like.  Several  miles 
away  on  the  right,  is  Pyramid  Mountain,  a  snow- 
capped peak.  Farther  to  the  south  is  a  long  range 
of  mountains,  also  covered  with  snow,  even  in  mid- 
summer. 

On  the  left  of  the  valley  the  foot  hills  bear 
abundant  verdure,  the  highest  summits  being  cov- 
ered with  a  vigorous  growth  of  pines.  Trail 
Creek  enters  the  Yellowstone  about  thirty  miles 
from  Fort  Ellis.  Ten  miles  further  up  the  Yel- 
lowstone is  Bottlers'  E-anch,  the  last  abode  of  civi- 
lized man  in  this  direction. 

The  Bottler  brothers,  who  have  established 
themselves  here,  belong  to  that  numerous  class  of 
pioneers  who  are  satisfied  only  when  their  field  of 
operation  is  a  little  in  advance  of  civilization,  ex- 
|:)Osed  to  privation  and  danger,  yet  possessing  ad- 
vantages for  hunting,  trapping  and  fishing  not  en- 
joyed by  men  content  to  dwell  in  safety.  These, 
however    are   not    their   only   occupations.     They 


FORT  ELLIS    TO    BOTTLERS'    RANCH.  19 

have  under  cultivation  large  fields  of  wheat,  pota- 
toes and  other  crops,  possess  extensive  herds  of 
cattle,  and  make  large  quantities  of  butter,  for 
which  they  find  a  ready  market  in  the  mining 
camps  of  Emigrant  Gulch  across  the  river,  which 
at  this  point  is  a  very  rapid  stream,  about  three 
hundred  feet  wide  and  four  feet  deep  on  the  riffles 
at  low  water. 

Of  this  part  of  the  valley  Dr.  Hayden  says  :  "  It 
is  about  fifteen  miles  long,  and  will  average  three 
miles  in  width  ;  it  is  well  watered,  soil  fertile,  and 
in  every  respect  one  of  the  most  desirable  portions 
of  Montana.  We  may  not  look  for  any  district? 
favorable  for  agriculture  in  the  Yellowstone  Val 
ley  above  the  second  canon  ;  but  this  entire  lake 
basin  seems  admirably  adapted  for  grazing  and  foi 
the  cultivation  of  the  usual  crops  of  the  country. 
The  cereals  and  the  roots  have  already  been  pro- 
duced in  abundance,  especially  wheat  and  potatoes. 
The  mountains  on  either  side  are  covered  with 
snow,  to  a  greater  or  less  extent,  all  the  year, 
which  in  melting  feeds  the  numerous  little  streams 
that  flow  down  the  mountain-sides  in  the  Yellow- 
stone. Hundreds  of  springs  flow  out  of  the  ter- 
races. One  terrace  near  Bottlers'  Ranch  gives  ori- 
gin to  fifty  springs  within  a  mile,  and  then,  all  ag- 
gregating  together  in   the   river   bottom,  form   a 


20  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONR 

large  stream.  Thus  there  is  the  greatest  abun- 
dance of  water  for  irrigation,  or  for  any  of  the  pur- 
poses of  settlement.  The  elevation  of  the  valley 
at  this  ranch  is  4,925  feet,  and  this  may  be  regard- 
ed as  the  average  in  altitude.  But  a  small  portion 
of  it  is  occupied  as  yet,  but  the  time  is  not  far  dis- 
tant when  the  valley  will  be  covered  with  fine  farms 
and  the  hills  with  stock.  It  will  always  be  a  re- 
gion of  interest,  from  the  fact  that  it  is  probably 
the  u})per  limit  of  agricultural  effort  in  the  yellow- 
stone  Valley." 


i'JSA^' 


CHAPTEE    ly. 

bottlers'  ranch  to    Gardner's  river. 

AT  Bottlers'  Kancli  the  wagon  road  termmatea. 
For  the  first  ten  miles  beyond,  the  trail  runs 
along  the  west  bank  of  the  river  through  the  wild- 
est imaginable  scenery  of  rock,  river  and  mountain. 
The  path  is  narrow,  rocky  and  uneven,  frequently 
leading    over  steep    hills    of   considerable   height. 
From  the  top  of  one  of  these,  a  bold  mountain  spur 
coming  down  to  the  water's  edge,  the  view  up  the 
valley  is  very  fine,  embracing  the  river  fringed  with 
cottonwoods,  the  foot  hills  covered  with  luxuriant, 
many-tinted  herbage,  and  over  all  the  snow-crowned 
summits   of    the    distant  mountains.      Above   this 
point  the  valley  opens  out  to  a  "  bottom  "  of  large 
extent  and  great  beauty.     Across  the  river  the  steep 
lava  mountains  come  close  to  the  stream,  their  lofty 
fronts  covered  with  stunted  timber.     A  large  por 
tion  of  the  bottom  land  is  subject  to  overflow  by 


22  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONE. 

the  numerous  mountain  streams  that  come  in  from 
the  riglit,  and  bears  an  abundance  of  grass,  in  man^ 
places  waist  high.  The  river  is  skirted  with  shrub- 
bery and  cedars,  the  latter  having  thick  trunks,  too 
short  for  ordinary  lumber,  yet  of  beautiful  grain  for 
small  cabinet  work,  and  susceptible  of  exquisite 
finish. 

At  the  head  of  this  valley  is  the  second  canon 
of  the  Yellowstone,  granite  walls  rising  on  either 
side  to  the  height  of  a  thousand  feet  or  more,  and 
the  river  dashing  through  the  narrow  gorge  with 
great  velocity.  Seen  from  the  lofty  mountain  spur 
over  which  the  trail  is  forced  to  pass,  the  bright 
green  color  of  the  water,  and  the  numerous  ripples, 
capped  with  white  foam,  as  the  roaring  torrent 
rushes  around  and  over  the  multitude  of  rocks 
that  have  fallen  from  above  into  the  channel,  present 
a  most  picturesque  appearance.  Above  the  canon, 
which  is  about  a  mile  in  length,  the  valley  widens 
slightly,  then  narrows  so  as  to  compel  the  traveller  to 
cross  a  ridge,  on  whose  summit  lies  a  beautiful  lake. 
Descending  to  the  valley  again  the  road  traverses  a 
tract  of  level  bottom  land,  a  mile  or  two  wide,  cov- 
ered with  a  heavy  growth  of  sage-brush.  Through- 
out all  this  portion  of  its  course,  the  Yellowstone  is 
abundantly  stocked  with  trout  of  the  largest  variety 
known  this  side  the  Rocky  Mountains. 


BOTTLERS'   RANCH    TO    GARDINER'S    RIVER.     23 

Some  ten  miles  above  the  secoud  cauon  on  the 
edge  of  the  river  valley  is  Cinnabar  Mountain, 
whose  weather-beaten  side  presents  one  of  the  most 
singular  freaks  of  nature  in  the  world.  Two  par- 
allel vertical  walls  of  rock,  fifty  feet  wide,  traverse 
the  mountain  from  base  to  summit,  and  project  to 
the  height  of  three  hundred  feet  for  a  distance  ol 
fifteen  hundred  feet.  The  sides  are  as  even  as  if 
wrought  by  line  and  plumb.  The  rock  between  the 
walls  and  on  either  side  has  been  completely  worn 
away.  Speaking  of  this  curious  formation,  Mr. 
Langford  says  : 

"  We  had  seen  many  of  the  capricious  works 
wrought  by  erosion  upon  the  friable  rocks  of  Mon- 
tana, but  never  before  upon  so  majestic  a  scale. 
Here  an  entire  mountain-side,  by  wind  and  water, 
had  been  removed,  leaving  as  the  evidences  of  their 
protracted  toil  these  vertical  projections,  which,  but 
for  their  immensity,  might  as  readily  be  mistaken 
for  works  of  art  as  of  nature.  Their  smooth  sides, 
uniform  width  and  height,  and  great  length,  con- 
sidered in  connection  with  the  causes  which  had 
wrought  their  insulation,  excited  our  wonder  and 
admiration.  They  were  all  the  more  curious  be- 
cause of  their  dissimilarity  to  any  other  striking  ob- 
jects in  natural  scenery  that  we  had  ever  seen  or 
heard  of.     In  future  years,  when  the  wonders  of  the 


24  tVONDEliS    OF    THE    TELL0W8T0NK 

Yellowstone  are  incorporated  into  the  family  oi 
fashionable  resorts,  there  will  be  few  of  its  attrac- 
tions sm*passing  in  interest  this  marvellous  freak  of 
the  elements." 

According  to  the  observations  of  Dr.  Hayden,  the 
mountain  is  formed  of  alternate  beds  of  sandstone, 
Umestone,  and  quartzites,  elevated  to  a  nearly  verti- 
cal position  by  those  internal  forces  which  acted  in 
ages  past  to  lift  the  mountain  ranges  to  their  present 
heights.  Standing  at  the  base  and  looking  up  the 
sides  of  the  mountain,  the  geologist  could  not  but 
be  fiUed  with  wonder  at  the  convulsions  which  threw 
such  immense  masses  of  rocks  into  their  present 
position.  Ridge  after  ridge  extends  down  the  steep 
sides  of  the  mountain  like  lofty  walls,  the  interven- 
ing softer  portions  having  been  washed  away,  leav- 
ing the  harder  layers  projecting  far  above.  In  one 
place  the  rocks  incline  in  every  possible  direction, 
and  are  crushed  together  in  the  utmost  confusion. 
Between  the  Avails  at  one  point  is  a  band  of  bright 
brick-red  clay,  which  has  been  mistaken  for  cinna- 
bar, and  hence  the  name  Cinnabar  Mountain.  The 
most  conspicuous  ridge  is  composed  of  basalt,  which 
must  have  been  poured  out  on  the  surface  when  all 
the  rocks  were  in  a  horizontal  position.  For  rea- 
sons best  known  to  himself,  one  of  the  first  explor 


BOTTLERS'   RANCH    TO    GARDINER b    RIVER.     25 

ers  of  this  region  gave  these  parallel  ridges  the  title 
of  "  Devil's  Slide." 

"  The  suggestion  was  unfortunate,"  writes  the  his- 
torian of  the  Expedition,  "  as,  with  more  reason 
perhaps,  but  with  no  better  taste,  we  frequently  had 
occasion  to  appropriate  other  portions  of  the  person 
of  his  Satanic  Majesty,  or  of  his  dominion,  in  sig- 
nification of  the  varied  marvels  we  met  with.  Some 
little  excuse  may  be  found  for  this  in  the  fact  that 
the  old  mountaineers  and  trappers  who  preceded  us 
had  been  peculiarly  lavish  in  the  use  of  the  infernal 
vocabulary.  Every  river  and  glen  and  mountain 
had  suggested  to  their  imaginations  some  fancied 
resemblance  to  portions  of  a  region  which  their 
pious  grandmothers  had  warned  them  to  avoid.  It 
is  common  for  them,  when  speaking  of  this  region, 
to  designate  portions  of  its  physical  features,  as 
"  Fire-hole  Prairie,"— the  "  Devil's  Den,"—"  Hell 
Eoaring  River,"  etc. — and  these  names,  from  a  re- 
markable  fitness  of  things,  are  not  likely  to  be 
speedily  superseded  by  others  less  impressive." 

These  "  impressive "  titles  stand  in  curious  con- 
trast with  the  fanciful  names  bestowed  in  this  region 
by  Capts.  Lewis  and  Clarke, — Wisdom  Eiver,  Phi- 
losophy River,  Philanthropy  Creek,  and  the  like. 

From  the  Devil's  Slide  to  the  mouth  of  Gardiner's 
River,  twelve  miles,  the  gi-ound  rises  rapidly,  pass- 


26  WONDERS    OF    'I  HE    YELLOWSJONE. 

ing  from  a  dead  level  alkali  plain,  to  a  succession 
of  plateaus  covered  slightly  with  a  sterile  soil.  Evi- 
dences of  volcanic  action  begin  to  be  frequent ; 
old  craters  converted  into  small  lakes  appear  here 
and  there,  prettily  fringed  with  vegetation,  and  cov- 
ered with  waterfowl.  Scattered  over  the  hills  and 
through  the  valleys  are  numerous  beautiful  speci- 
mens of  chalcedony  and  chips  of  obsidian.  Many 
of  the  chalcedonies  are  geodes,  in  which  are  crys- 
tals of  quartz  ;  others  contain  opal  in  the  centre  and 
agate  on  the  exterior  ;  and  still  others  have  on  the 
outside  attached  crystals  of  calcite. 


HOT   SPRINGS    OF    GARDI- 


NER S  RIVER. 


^'EN  miles  above  the 
Devil's  Slide,  Gar- 
diner's River,  a  moim- 
fcain  torrent  twenty  yards  wide,  cuts  through 
a  deep  and  gloomy  gorge  and  enters  the  Yel- 
lowstone at  the  lower  end  of  the  Third  Caiion. 
At  this  point  the  Yellowstone  shrinks  to  half 
its  usual   size,  losing   itself    among  huge   granite 


28  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONE 

boulders,  which  choke  up  the  stream  and  create 
alternate  pools  and  rapids,  crowded  with  trout. 
Worn  into  fantastic  forms  by  the  washing  water, 
these  immense  rock  masses  give  an  aspect  of  pecu- 
liar wildness  to  the  scenery.  But  the  crowning 
wonder  of  this  region  is  the  group  of  hot  springs 
on  the  slope  of  a  mountain,  four  miles  up  the  val- 
ley of  Gardiner's  River.  The  first  expedition  passed 
on  without  seeing  them,  but  they  could  not  escape 
the  vigilance  of  the  scientific  company  that  fol- 
lowed. 

The  lower  reaches  of  the  valley  of  Gardiner's 
Biver,  and  the  enclosing  hillsides,  are  strewn  with 
volcanic  rock,  having  the  appearance  of  furnace 
cinder.  The  tops  of  the  rounded  hills  are  covered 
with  fragments  of  basalt  and  conglomerate,  whose 
great  variety  of  sombre  colors  add  much  to  the 
appearance  of  desolation  which  characterizes  the 
valley.  Here  and  there  are  stagnant  lakes  fifty  to 
a  hundred  yards  in  diameter,  apparently  occupying 
ancient  volcanic  vents.  Crossing  a  barren,  elevat- 
ed region  two  miles  in  extent,  and  three  or  four 
hundred  feet  above  the  river-bed,  the  trail  de- 
scends abruptly  to  a  low  "  bottom  "  covered  with 
a  thick  calcareous  crust,  deposited  from  hot  springs, 
now  for  the  most  part  dry.  At  one  point,  however, 
a  large  stream  of  hot  water,  six  feet  wide  and  two 


HOT   SPRINGS    OF   GARDTN'ERS    RIVER.  29 

feet  deep,  flows  swiftly  from  beneath  the  crust,  its 
exposed  portion  clearly  revealed  by  rising  steam 
The  quantity  of  water  flowing  from  this  spring  is 
greater  than  from  any  other   in   this   region  ;  its 
temperature   ranges   from    126°  to   132°  Fah.     A 
little  further  above  are  three  or  four  other  springs 
near  the  margin  of  the  river.     These  have  nearly 
circular  basins,  six  to  ten  feet  in  diameter,  and  a 
temperature  not  above  120°.  Already  these  springs 
have   become   the   resort   of  invalids,   who    speak 
highly  of  the  virtues  of  the  waters.     A  short  dis- 
tance up  the  hill  are  abundant  remains  of  springs, 
which  in  time  past  must  have  been  very  active 
For  nearly  a  mile  the  steep  hillside  is  covered  with 
a   thick   crust   of  spring  deposits,  which,   though 
much  decomposed  and  overgrown  with  pines  and 
cedars,  still  bear  traces  of  the  wonderful  forms  dis- 
played in  the  vicinity  of  the  active  springs  further 
up  the  hill.     Ascending  the  hill.  Dr.  Hayden's  par- 
ty  came   suddenly   and  unexpectedly  upon  these 
marvellous   deposits,  which   they   agreed   in   pro- 
nouncing one  of  the  finest  displays  of  natural  ar- 
chitecture in  the  world.     The  snowy  whiteness  of 
the  deposit,  which  has  the  form  of  a  frozen  cas- 
cade, at  once  suggested  the  name  of  White  Moun- 
tain Hot  Spring.     The  springs  now  in  active  op- 
eration cover  an  area  '^f  about  one   ^uare  mile, 


30  WONDERS    OF    TEE    YELLOWSTONE. 

while  the  rest  of  the  territory,  three  or  four  square 
miles  in  extent,  is  occupied  by  the  remains  of 
springs  which  have  ceased  to  flow.  Small  streams 
flow  down  the  sides  of  the  Snowy  Mountain  in 
channels  lined  with  oxide  of  iron  of  the  most  deli- 
cate tints  of  red.  Others  show  exquisite  shades  of 
yellowy  from  a  deep,  bright  sul]3hur,  to  a  dainty 
cream-color.  Still  others  are  stained  with  shades 
of  green,  all  these  colors  as  brilliant  as  the  bright- 
est aniline  dyes.  The  water  after  rising  from  the 
spring  basin  flows  down  the  sides  of  the  declivity, 
step  by  step,  from  one  reservoir  to  another,  at  each 
one  of  them  losing  a  portion  of  its  heat,  until  it  be- 
comes as  cool  as  spring-water.  Within  five  hun- 
dred feet  of  its  source  Dr.  Hayden's  party  camped 
for  two  days  by  the  side  of  the  little  stream  formed 
by  the  aggregated  waters  of  these  hot  springs,  and 
found  the  water  most  excellent  for  drinking  as  well 
as  for  cooking  purposes.  It  was  perfectly  clear 
and  tasteless,  and  harmless  in  its  effects.  During 
their  stay  here  all  the  members  of  the  party,  as 
well  as  the  soldiers  comprising  their  escort,  en- 
joyed the  luxury  of  bathing  in  these  most  elegant- 
ly carved  natural  bathing-pools  ;  and  it  was  easy 
to  select,  from  the  hundreds  of  reservoirs,  water  of 
any  desired  temperature.  These  natural  basins 
vary   somewhat   in   size,  but   many   of   them   are 


HOT  SPRINGS    OF    GARDINER'S    RIVER.  31 

about  four  by  six  feet  in  diameter,  and  one  to  four 
feet  in  depth.  Their  margins  are  beautifully  scal- 
loped, and  adorned  with  a  natural  beadwork  of  ex- 
quisite beauty. 


BATHINa-POOLS  (DIANA's   BATH.) 

The  level  or  terrace  upon  which  the  principal  ac- 
tive springs  are  located,  is  about  midway  up  the 
Bides  of  the  mountain,  covered  with  the  sediment. 
8till  farther  up  are  the  ruins  of  what  must  have 


32  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOW iSTONR 

been  at  some  period  more  active  springs  than  anj* 
at  present  known.  The  sides  of  the  mountain  for 
two  or  three  hundred  feet  in  height,  are  thickly  en- 
crusted with  calcareous  deposit,  originally  orna- 
mented with  elegant  sculpturing,  like  the  bathing 
pools  below  ;  but  atmospheric  agencies,  which  act 
readily  on  the  lime,  have  obliterated  all  their  deli- 
cate beauty. 

The  largest  living  spring  is  near  the  outer  mar- 
gin of  the  main  terrace.  Its  dimensions  are  twen- 
ty-five feet  by  forty,  and  its  water  so  perfectly 
transparent  that  one  can  look  down  into  the  beau- 
tiful ultramarine  depth  to  the  very  bottom  of  the 
basin.  Its  sides  are  ornamented  with  coral-like 
forms  of  a  great  variety  of  shades,  from  pure  white 
to  a  bright  cream  yellow,  while  the  blue  sky  reflect- 
ed in  the  transparent  water  gives  an  azure  tint  to 
the  whole  which  surpasses  all  art.  From  varipus 
portions  of  the  rim,  water  flows  out  in  moderate 
quantities  over  the  sides  of  the  hill.  Whenever  it 
gathers  into  a  channel  and  flows  quite  swiftly,  ba- 
sins with  sides  fi-om  two  to  eight  feet  high  are 
formed  with  their  ornamental  designs  proportion- 
ately coarse  ;  but  when  the  water  flows  slowly,  my- 
riads of  little  basins  are  formed,  one  below  an- 
other, with  a  semblance  of  irregular  system.  The 
water   holds   in  solution  a  great  amount  of  lime, 


HOT   SPRINGS    OF   GARDINEU'S   RIVER,  33 

with  some  soda,  alumina  and  magnesia,  which  are 
slowly  deposited  as  the  water  flows  down  the  sides 
of  the  mountain.  Underneath  the  sides  of  many 
of  the  pools  are  rows  of  exquisitely-ornamented 
stalactites,  formed  by  the  dripping  of  the  water 
over  the  margins.  All  these  springs  have  one  or 
more  centres  of  ebullition  which  is  constant,  though 
seldom  rising  more  than  four  or  five  inches  above 
the  surface.  The  ebullition  is  due  mainly  to  the 
emission  of  carbonic  acid  gas.  The  springs  in  the 
centre  of  the  main  basin  are  probably  all  at  the 
boiling  point — 194°  at  this  elevation.  Being  inac- 
cessible, however,  it  is  impossible  to  determine 
their  actual  temperature.  The  hottest  that  could 
be  reached  was  162°  Fah.  The  terrace  imme- 
diately above  the  main  basin  is  bordered  by  a  long 
rounded  ridge  with  a  fissure  extending  its  whole 
length,  its  interior  lined  with  beautiful  crystals  of 
pure  sulphur.  Only  hot  vapors  and  steam  issue 
from  this  fissure,  though  the  bubbling  and  gurgling 
of  water  far  beneath  the  surface  can  be  distinctly 
heard.  Back  of  this  ridge  are  several  small  springs 
which  throw  up  geyser-like  jets  of  water  intermit- 
tently to  the  height  of  three  feet. 

On  the  west  side  of  this  deposit,  about  one-third 
of  the  way  up  the  White  Mountain  from  the  river 
and  terrace,  where  was  once  the  theatre  of  m*UD.y 


84  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONE, 

active  springs,)  old  chimneys  or  craters  are  scattered 
thickly  over  the  surface,  and  there  are  several  large 
holes  and  fissures  leading  to  vast  caverns  below. 
The  crust  gives  off  a  dull  hollow  sound  beneath  the 
tread,  and  the  surface  gives  indistinct  evidence  of 
having  been  adorned  with  the  beautiful  pools  or  ba- 
sins already  described.  At  the  base  of  the  princi- 
pal terrace  is  a  large  area  covered  with  shallow 
pools,  some  of  them  containing  water,  with  all  the 
ornamentations  perfect,  while  others  are  fast  going 
to  decay,  and  the  decomposed  sediment  is  as  white 
as  snow.  On  this  sub-terrace  is  a  remarkable  cone 
about  50  feet  in  height  and  20  feet  in  diameter  at 
the  base.  Its  form  has  suggested  the  name  of  Lib- 
erty Cap.  It  is  undoubtedly  the  remains  of  an  ex- 
tinct geyser.  The  water  was  forced  up  with  con- 
siderable power,  and  probably  without  intermission, 
building  up  its  own  crater  until  the  pressure  beneath 
was  exhausted,  and  the  spring  gradually  closed  it- 
self over  at  the  summit  and  perished.  No  water 
flows  from  it  at  the  present  time.  The  layers  of 
Hme  were  deposited  around  the  cap  like  the  layers 
of  straw  on  a  thatched  roof,  or  hay  on  a  conical 
stack.  Not  far  from  the  Liberty  Cap  is  a  smaller 
cone,  called,  from  its  form,  the  "  Bee-hive."  These 
springs  are  constantly  changing  their  position ;  some 
die  out,  others  burst  out  m  new  places.     On  the 


ROT  SPRINGS    OF   GARDINER S   RIVER, 


35 


northwest  margin  of  the  main  terrace  are  examples 
of  what  have  been  called  oblong  mounds.     There 

are  sev- 
eral of 
them  in 
this  re- 
gion, ex 
tending 
in  differ- 
ent di- 
rections, 
fi'om  fif- 
ty to  one 
hundred 
and  fifty 
yards  in 
length, 
six  to  ten  feet  high, 
from  ten  to  fifteen 
broad  at  the  base. 
There  is  in  all  cases  a 
fissure  from  one  end  of 
the  summit  to  the  other, 
usually  from  six  to  ten  inches  wide,  from  which 
steam  sometimes  issues  in  considerable  quantities , 
and  on  walking  along  the  top  one  can  hear  the  water 
seething  and  boiling  below  like  a  cauldron.     The 


THE  lilBEETY    CAP. 


36  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONE 

inner  portion  of  the  shell,  as  far  down  as  can  be 
seen,  is  Uned  with  a  hard,  white  enamel-like  porce- 
lain ;  in  some  places  beautiful  crystals  of  sulphur 
have  been  precipitated  from  the  steam.  These 
mounds  have  been  built  up  by  a  kind  of  oblong  fis- 
sure-spring in  the  same  way  that  the  cones  have 
been  constructed.  The  water,  continually  spouting 
up,  deposited  sediment  around  the  edges  of  the  fis- 
sure until  the  force  was  exhausted,  and  then  the  cal- 
careous basin  was  rounded  up  something  like  a 
thatched  roof  by  overlapping  layers. 

Near  the  upper  terrace,  which  is  really  an  old 
rim,  are  a  number  of  these  extinct,  oblong  geysers, 
some  of  which  have  been  broken  down  soi,s  to  show 
them  to  be  mere  shells  or  caverns,  now  the  abode  of 
wild  animals.  Dr.  Hay  den  attempted  to  enter  one 
of  them,  and  found  it  full  of  sticks  and  bones  which 
had  been  carried  in  by  wild  beasts ;  and  swarms  of 
bats  flitted  to  and  fro.  Some  of  the  mounds  have 
been  worn  away  so  that  sections  are  exposed,  show- 
ing the  great  number  and  thickness  of  the  overlap- 
ping layers  of  sediment.  Many  mounds  are  over- 
grown with  pine-trees,  which  must  be  at  least  eighty 
or  a  hundred  years  old.  Indeed,  the  upper  part  of 
this  mountain  appear*!  like  a  magnificent  ruin  of  a 
once  flourishing  village  of  these  unique  structures, 
DOW  fast  decomposing,  yev  beautiful  and  instructive 


EOT   SPRINGS    OF   GARDINER'S   RIVER.  37 

in  their  decay.     One  may  now  study  the  layers  ol 
deposit,  sometimes  thousands  on  a  single  mound,  as 
he  would  the  rings  of  growth  in  a  tree.     How  long 
a  period  is  requked  to  form  one  of  these  mounds,  or 
to  buHd  up  its  beautiful  structure,  there  is  no  data 
for  determining.     On  the  middle  terrace,  where  the 
principal  portion  of  the  active  springs  are,  some  of 
the  pine-trees  are  buried  in  sediment  apparently  to 
the  depth  of  six  or  eight  feet.    All  of  them  are  dead 
at  the  present  time.     There  is,  however,  evidence 
enough  around  the  springs  to  show  that  the  mineral- 
water  is  precipitated  with  great  rapidity.     It  is  pro- 
bable that  all  the  deposits  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  the  active  springs  are  constantly  changmg  from 
the  margin  of  the  river  to  the  top  of  the  White 
Mountain  and  return.     The  deposits  upon  the  sum- 
mit are  extensive,  though  now  there  is  very  Httle 
water  issuing  fi-om  the  springs  there,  and  that  is  of 
low  temperature.     Quantities  of  steam  are  ever  as- 
cending from  the  springs,  and  on  damp  mornings 
the  entire  slope  of  the  mountain  is  enveloped  in 

clouds  of  vapor. 

"  But,"  observes  Dr.  Hayden,  in  summing  up  his 
account  of  this  indescribable  locality,  "  it  is  to  the 
wonderful  variety  of  exquisitely  dehcate  colors  that 
this  picture  owes  the  mam  part  of  its  attractiveness. 
The  httle  orifices  from  which  the  hot  water  issues 


38  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONE. 

are  beautifully  enamelled  with  the  porcelain -like 
lining,  and  around  the  edges  a  layer  of  sulphur  is 
precipitated.  As  the  water  flows  along  the  valley,  it 
lays  down  in  its  course  a  pavement  more  beautiful 
and  elaborate  in  its  adornment  than  art  has  ever  yet 
conceived.  The  sulphur  and  the  iron,  with  the  green 
microscopic  vegetation,  tint  the  whole  with  an  illu- 
mination of  which  no  decoration-painter  has  ever 
dreamed.  From  the  sides  of  the  oblong  mound, 
which  is  here  from  30  to  50  feet  high,  the  water  has 
oozed  out  at  different  points,  forming  small  groups 
of  the  semicircular,  step-like  basins. 

"Again,  if  we  look  at  the  principal  group  of 
springs  from  the  high  mound  above  the  middle  ter- 
race, we  can  see  the  same  variety  of  brilliant  color- 
ing. The  wonderful  transparency  of  the  water  sur- 
passes anything  of  the  kind  I  have  ever  seen  in  any 
other  portion  of  the  world.  The  sky,  with  the 
smallest  cloud  that  flits  across  it,  is  reflected  in  its 
clear  depths,  and  the  ultramarine  colors,  more  vivid 
than  the  sea,  are  greatly  heightened  by  the  constant 
gentle  vibrations.  One  can  look  down  into  the  clear 
depths  and  see,  with  perfect  distinctness,  the  minut- 
est ornament  on  the  inner  sides  of  the  basins  ;  and 
the  exquisite  beauty  of  the  coloring  and  the  variety 
of  forms  baffle  any  attempt  to  portray  them,  either 
with  pen  or  pencil.     And  then,  too,  around  the  bor- 


HOT  SPRINGS    OF   GARDINKR'S   RIVER,  39 

ders  of  these  springs,  especially  those  of  rather  lo\v 
temperature,  and  on  the  sides  and  bottoms  of  the 
numerous  little  channels  of  the  streams  that  flow 
from  these  springs,  there  is  a  striking  variety  of 
the  most  vivid  colors.  I  can  only  compare  them  to 
our  most  brilliant  anihne  dyes — various  shades  oi 
red,  from  the  brightest  scarlet  to  a  bright  rose  tint ; 
also  yellow,  from  deep-bright  sulphur,  through  all 
the  shades,  to  hght  cream-color.  There  are  also 
various  shades  of  green,  from  the  peculiar  vegeta- 
tion. These  springs  are  also  filled  with  minute 
vegetable  forms,  which  under  the  microscope  prove 
to  be  diatoms,  among  which  Dr.  Billings  discov- 
ers FalmeUa  and  Oscillara.  There  are  also  in  the 
little  streams  that  flow  from  the  boihng  springs 
great  quantities  of  a  fibrous,  silky  substance,  ap- 
parently vegetable,  which  vibrates  at  the  slightest 
movement  of  the  water,  and  has  the  appearance  of 
the  finest  quahty  of  cashmere  wool.  When  the 
waters  are  still  these  silken  masses  become  in- 
crusted  with  Hme,  the  delicate  vegetable  threads 
disappear,  and  a  fibrous,  spongy  mass  remains,  like 
dehcate  snow-white  coral." 

The  antiquity  of  these  springs  is  a  question  of 
great  interest,  yet  difficult  of  solution.  When  were 
these  immense  deposits  begun  ?  On  the  mar(3;in 
of  the  mountain,  high   above  the  present  position 


iO  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONK 

of  the  hot  springs,  is  a  bed  of  white,  or  yellow- 
ish white  Hmestone,  from  fifty  to  a  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  thick.  It  is  regularly  stratified  and  the 
jointing  is  complete.  There  is  a  belt  a  mile  long 
and  one  fourth  of  a  mile  wide,  covered  with 
cubical  masses  of  this  rock  that  have  fallen  down 
the  slope  of  the  mountain.  These  immense  blocks, 
fifty  to  one  hundred  feet  in  each  dimension,  ap- 
pear as  if  the  mass  had  slowly  fallen  down  as 
the  underlying  rocks  were  worn  away.  So  thickly 
is  this  belt  covered  with  these  huge  masses  that  it 
is  with  the  greatest  difficulty  one  can  walk  across  it. 
It  would  seem  that  this  bed  must  at  one  time  have 
extended  over  a  portion  or  all  of  the  valley  of  Gar- 
diner's Kiver.  Much  of  the  rock  is  very  compact, 
and  would  make  beautiful  building-stone,  on  account 
of  its  close  texture  and  color,  and  it  could  be  con- 
verted into  the  whitest  of  lime.  If  the  rocks  are 
examined,  however,  over  a  considerable  area,  they 
are  found  to  possess  all  the  varieties  of  structure 
of  a  hot-spring  deposit.  Some  portions  are  quite 
spongy,  and  decompose  readily  ;  others  are  made 
up  of  very  thin  laminae,  regular  or  wavy ;  enough 
to  show  the  origin  of  the  deposit  without  a  doubt. 
But  in  what  manner  was  it  formed  ?  Dr.  Hayden 
believes  that  the  limestone  was  precipitated  in  the 
bottom  of  a  lake,  which  was  filled  with  hot-springs, 


HOT  SPRINGS  OF  GARDINER 8  RLVEH,  4i 

much  as  the  calcareous  matter  is  laid  down  il  the 
bottom  of  the  ocean  at  the  present  time.  Indeed, 
portions  of  the  rock  do  not  differ  materially  fi'om 
the  recent  limestones  now  forming  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  West  India  Islands.  The  deposit  was  evidently 
laid  down  on  a  nearly  level  surface,  with  a  moder- 
ately uniform  thickness,  and  the  strata  are  horizon- 
tal. Since  this  group  of  strata  was  formed,  the 
country  has  been  elevated,  and  the  valley  of  Gar- 
diner's River  has  been  carved  out,  so  that  the  com- 
mencement of  the  period  of  activity  of  these  springs 
must  date  back  to  a  period  merging  on,  but  just 
prior  to,  the  present  geological  period — probably  a^ 
the  time  of  the  greatest  action  of  the  volcanic  forces 
in  this  region. 

Classed  with  reference  to  their  chemical  constitu- 
ents, the  springs  here  and  elsewhere  in  the  Yellow* 
stone  Valley  are  of  two  kinds  :  those  in  which  lime 
predominates,  and  those  in  which  silica  is  most 
abundant.  The  springs  of  Gardiner's  Eiver  are 
mainly  the  former.  Where  does  the  lime  come 
from  ?  The  geology  of  the  country  surrounding 
the  springs  shows  already  that  there  is  under- 
neath the  spring  deposits,  at  least  a  thickness  of 
1,500  feet,  of  carboniferous  limestone  ;  and  if  the 
origin  of  the  heat  which  so  elevates  the  temperature 
of  the  waters  of  these  springs  is  as  deep  seated  as 


42  WONDERS  OF  TEE  YELLOWSTONB. 

is  generally  supposed,  the  heated  waters  have  ample 
time  and  space  for  dissolving  the  calcareous  rocks 
through  which  they  flow. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

gaediner's  kiver  to  grand  canon. 

ABOUT  a  mile   above  the  springs,  Gardiner's 
River   separates    into    three    branches— the 
East,  Middle,  and  West  Forks,  which  rise  high  up 
m  the  mountains,  among  perpetual   snows.     They 
wind  their   way   across   a  broad   plateau   covered 
mostly  with  a  dense  growth  of  pines,  but  with  some 
broad,  open,  meadow-like  spots,  which,  seen  from 
some  high  mountain  peak,  lend  a  rare  charm  to  the 
landscape.     After  gathering  a  sufficient  supply  of 
water,  they  commence  wearing  their  channels  down 
into  the  volcanic  rocks,  deeper  and  deeper  as  they 
descend.     Each  one  has  its  water-fall,  which  would 
fill  an  artist  with  enthusiasm.     From  the  high  ridge 
between  the  East  and  Middle  Forks  a  fine  view  is 
obtained  of  the  surrounding  country. 

Far  to  the  southwest  are  lofty  peaks  covered  with 
SHOW,  rising  to  the  height  of  10,000  feet,  and  form- 


^4  WONDERS    OF    TIIE    YELLOWSTONE. 

ing  a  part  of  the  magnificent  range  of  mountains 
tliat  separates  tiie  Yellowstone  from  the  sources  of 
the  Gallatin.  From  this  high  ridge  one  can  look 
down  into  the  chasm  of  the  Middle  Fork,  carved  out 
of  the  basalt  and  basaltic  conglomerates  to  the 
depth  of  500  to  800  feet,  with  nearly  vertical  sides. 
In  the  sides  of  this  canon,  as  well  as  those  of  the 
East  Fork,  splendid  examples  of  basaltic  columns 
are  displayed,  as  perfect  as  those  of  the  celebrated 
Fingal's  Cave.  They  usually  appear  in  regular 
rows,  vertical,  five  and  six  sided,  but  far  more 
sharply  cut  than  elsewhere  seen  in  the  West,  though 
occasionally  the  columns  are  spread  out  in  the  form 
of  a  fan.  Sometimes  there  are  several  rows,  usually 
about  fifty  feet  high,  one  above  the  other,  with  con- 
glomerate betwe<en. 

The  canon  is  about  500  yards  from  margin  to 
margin  at  top,  but  narrows  down  until  on  the  bot- 
tom it  is  not  more  than  forty  yards  wide.  At  one 
point  the  water  pours  over  a  declivity  of  300  feet  or 
more,  forming  a  most  beautiful  cascade.  The  direct 
fall  is  over  100  feet.  The  constant  roar  of  the  water 
is  hke  that  of  a  train  of  cars  in  motion.  The  pines 
are  very  dense,  usually  of  moderate  size,  and  among 
them  are  many  open  spaces,  covered  with  stout  grass, 
sometimes  with  largo  sage-bushes.  Upon  the  high 
hills  the  vegetation  is  remarkably  luxuriant,  indi- 


GARDNERS   RIVER    TO    GRAND    CANON.         45 

eating  great  fertility  of  soil,  which  is  usually  very 
thick,  and  made  up  mostly  of  degraded  igneous 
rocks.  Above  the  faUs  the  rows  of  vertical,  ba- 
saltic columns  continue  in  the  walls  of  the  caiion, 
and  they  may  well  be  ranked  among  the  remarkable 
wonders  of  this  rare  wonder-land.  The  lower  por- 
tion of  the  canon  is  composed  of  rather  coarse  ig- 
neous rocks,  which  have  a  jointage  and  a  style  of 
weathering  hke  granite.  The  West  Fork  rolls  over 
a  bed  of  basalt,  which  is  divided  into  blocks  that 
give  the  walls  the  appearance  of  mason-work  on 
a  gigantic  scale.  Below  the  falls  the  river  has  cut 
the  sides  of  the  mountain,  exposing  a  vertical 
section  400  feet  high,  with  the  same  irregular  joint- 
age. 

South  of  the  hot  springs  is  a  round  dome-like 
mountain,  rising  2,100  feet  above  them,  or  8,500  feet 
above  the  sea.  Its  summit  commands  a  prospect 
from  thirty  to  fifty  miles  in  every  direction.  To  the 
north  and  west  stands  a  group  of  lofty  peaks  over 
10,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  covered  with  huge 
masses  of  snow.  These  peaks  form  a  part  of  the 
range  that  separates  the  waters  of  the  Gallatin  from 
those  of  the  Yellowstone.  Farther  on  to  the  south- 
ward are  the  peaks  of  the  head  of  the  Madison,  and 
in  the  interval  one  black  mass  of  pine  forest,  cover- 
ing high  plateaus,  with  no  point  rising  over  8,500 


4^  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONE. 

feet  above  the  sea — the  whole  region  being  more  or 
less  wavy  or  rolling,  interspersed  here  and  there  with 
beautiful  lakes  a  few  hundred  yards  in  diameter , 
and  here  and  there  a   bright-green   grassy  valley 
through  which  little  streams  wind  their  way  to  the 
large  rivers.      In  one  of  these  lakes  the  explorers 
saw  the  greatest   abundance  of   yellow  water-hly, 
which  blooms  in  great  profusion  on  the  surface  ot 
all  the  mountain  lakes  of  the  Yellowstone  Basin. 
On  the  east  side  of  Gardiner's  Canon,  and  west  of 
the  YeUowstone,  is  a  sort    of   wave-like   series    of 
ridges,  with  broad,  open,  grassy  interspaces,  with 
many  groves  of  pines.     These  ridges  gradually  slope 
down  to  the  Yellowstone,  northeast.     Far  to  the 
east  and  north  is  one  jagged  mass  of  volcanic  peaks, 
some  of  them  snow-clad,  others  bald  and  desolate 
to  the  eye.     Ear  to  the  south,  dimly  outhned  on  the 
horizon,  may  be  seen  the  three  Tetons  and  Madison 
Peak — monarchs  of  all  the  region.     A  grander  view 
could  not  well  be  conceived. 

Leaving  Gardiner's  River,  Dr.  Hay  den's  party  as- 
cended ihe  broad  slope  of  the  dividing  ridge  be- 
tween that  river  and  the  streamlets  which  flow  into 
the  Yellowstone.  Immense  boulders  of  massive 
granite,  considerably  rounded,  are  a  marked  feature 
of  the  country  about  the  entrance  of  the  East  Eork. 
One  of  these,  a  mass  of  red  feldspathic  granite,  is 


GABDINERS   RIVER    TO    GRAND   CANON.         47 

twenty-live  feet  thick  and  fifty  feet  long.  Tli(3  high 
wavy  ridge,  9,000  feet  above  the  sea,  is  composed  of 
beds  of  steel-gray  and  brown  sandstone  and  cal- 
careous clay,  in  which  are  numerous  impressions  of 
deciduous  leaves.  Yast  quantities  of  sihcified  wood 
of  great  perfection  and  beauty  are  scattered  all  over 
the  surface.  In  some  cases  long  trees  have  beeij 
turned  to  agate,  the  rings  of  growth  as  perfectly 
shown  as  in  recent  wood.  The  soil  is  very  thick, 
and  covered  with  luxuriant  vegetation. 

"  We  were  travelling  through  this  region  in  the 
latter  part  of  the  month  of  July,"  writes  Dr.  Hay- 
den,  "  and  aU  the  vegetation  seemed  to  be  in  the 
height  of  its  growth  and  beauty.  The  meadows 
were  covered  densely  with  grass  and  flowers  of  many 
varieties,  and  among  the  pines  were  charming  groves 
of  poplars,  contrasting  strongly  by  their  pecuhar 
enhvening  fohage  with  the  sombre  hue  of  the  pines. 
The  ehmate  was  perfect,  and  in  the  midst  of  some 
of  the  most  remarkable  scenery  in  the  world,  every 
hour  of  oui'  march  only  increased  our  enthusiasm. 

"  The  ehmate  during  the  months  of  June,  July, 
and  August,  in  this  valley,  cannot  be  sui-passed  in 
the  world  for  its  health-givmg  powers.  The  finest 
of  mountain  water,  fish  in  the  greatest  abundance, 
with  a  good  supply  of  game  of  all  kinds,  fuhy  satisfy 
the  wants  of  the   traveUer,  and  render   this  vaUey 


48  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONK 

one  of  the  most  attractive  places  of  resort  for  in- 
valids or  pleasure-seekers  in  America." 

From  the  summit  of  the  ridge  the  party  descended 
to  the  valley  of  the  Yellowstone,  nearly  opposite  the 
mouth  of  the  East  Fork  of  that  river.  The  road 
was  a  rough  one.  During  the  period  of  volcanic 
action  in  this  region,  the  sedimentary  rocks  were 
crumpled  into  high,  sharp,  w^ave-like  series  of  ridges  ; 
from  innumerable  fissures,  igneous  matter  was  pour- 
ed out  over  the  surface  coohng  into  basalt ;  and 
from  volcanic  vents  was  also  thrown  out,  into  the 
great  lake,  rock  fragments  and  volcanic  dust,  which 
were  arranged  by  the  water  and  cemented  into  a 
breccia.  Deep  into  these  ridges  the  little  streams 
have  cut  their  channels,  forming  what  should  be 
called  valleys,  rather  than  canons,  with  almost  ver- 
tical sides.  These  ravines,  600  to  800  feet  deep, 
covered  mostly  with  grass  or  trees,  occur  in  great 
numbers,  many  of  them  entirely  dry  at  present,  but 
attesting  the  presence  and  power,  at  no  very  remote 
period,  of  aqueous  forces  compared  with  which  those 
of  the  present  are  utterly  insignificant. 

Before  studying  this  portion  of  the  Yellowstone 
Valley,  it  may  be  well  to  retrace  our  steps  to  the 
mouth  of  Gardiner's  River,  to  explore  the  Third 
Canon  of  the  Yellowstone,  so  far  as  possible,  and  the 
t^st  of  its  interesting  valley  up  to  this  point. 


OARDINERS    RIVER    TO    QRAKD  CANON,  49 

As  already  noticed,  the  country  about  the  mouth 
of  Gardiner's  River  is  desolate  and  gloomy.  The 
hill-slopes  are  covered  with  sage  brush,  the  constant 
sign  of  arid  soil,  and  grass  is  scarce.  This  is  the 
first  poor  camping-place  on  the  route.  The  canon 
being  impassable,  the  trail  passes  to  the  right,  cross- 
ing several  high  mountain-spurs,  over  which  the 
way  is  much  obstructed  by  fallen  timber,  and  reach- 
ing at  last  a  high  rolling  plateau.  This  elevated 
tract  is  about  thirty  miles  in  extent,  with  a  general 
declivity  to  the  north.  Its  surface  is  an  undulating 
prairie,  dotted  with  groves  of  pine  and  aspen.  Nu- 
merous lakes  are  scattered  throughout  its  whole 
extent,  and  great  numbers  of  springs,  which  flo\^ 
down  the  slopes,  are  lost  in  the  volume  of  the  Yel- 
lowstone. The  river  breaks  through  this  plateau  ii> 
a  winding  canon  over  2,000  feet  in  depth — the 
middle  canon  of  the  Yellowstone  rolling  over  vol- 
canic boulders  in  some  places,  and  in  others  form- 
ing still  pools  of  seemingly  fathomless  depth.  At 
one  point  it  dashes  to  and  fro,  lashed  to  a  white 
foam  on  its  rocky  bed  ;  at  another,  where  a  deep 
basin  occurs  in  the  channel,  it  subsides  into  a  crys- 
tal miiTor.  Numerous  small  cascades  are  seen 
tumbling  from  the  rocky  walls  at  different  points 
and  the  river  appears  from  the  lofty  summits  a 
mere  ribbon  of  foam  in  the  immeasurable  distance 


60  WONDERS    OF   TEE    YELLOWSTONE. 

below.  Standing  on  the  brink  of  the  chasm  the 
heavy  roaring  of  the  imprisoned  river  comes  to  the 
ear  only  in  a  sort  of  hollow,  hungry  growl,  scarcely 
audible  from  the  depths.  Lofty  pines  on  the  bank 
of  the  stream  "  dwindle  to  shrubs  in  dizziness  of 
distance."  Everything  beneath,  says  Lieut.  Doane, 
has  a  weird  and  deceptive  appearance.  The  water 
does  not  look  like  water,  but  like  oil.  Numerous  fish- 
haw,ks  are  seen  busily  plying  their  vocation,  sailing 
high  above  the  waters,  and  yet  a  thousand  feet  be- 
low the  spectator.  In  the  clefts  of  the  rocks  down, 
hundreds  of  feet  down,  bald  eagles  have  their  eyries, 
from  which  one  can  see  them  swooping  still  farther 
into  the  depths  to  rob  the  ospreys  of  their  hard- 
earned  trout.  It  is  grand,  gloomy,  and  terrible ;  a 
solitude  peopled  with  fantastic  ideas ;  an  empire 
of  shadows  and  of  turmoil. 

The  plateau  formation  is  of  lava,  generally  in 
horizontal  layers,  as  it  cooled  in  a  surface  flow,  yet 
upheaved  in  many  places  into  wave-like  undulations, 
Occasionally  granite  shafts  protrude  through  the 
strata,  forming  landmarks  of  picturesque  form. 
Like  dark  icebergs  stranded  in  an  ocean  of  green, 
they  rise  high  above  the  tops  of  the  trees  in 
wooded  districts,  or  stand  out  grim  and  solid  on  tlie 
grassy  expanse  of  the  prairies. 

Near  the  head  of  the  Third  Canon  a  stream  flows 


II- 


^' 


^1^^^' 


GARDNER'S    RIVER    TO    GRAND    CANON.  5J 

bito  the  Yellowstone  from  the  northeast,  bearing  the 
sonorous  title,  Hell-Roaring  Eiver.  It  is  quite  a 
large  stream,  rising  high  among  the  mountains,  and 
flowing  with  tremendous  impetuosity  down  the 
deep  gorges.  The  inountains  on  either  side  come 
close  down  to  the  channel  of  the  Yellowstone,  and 
are  among  the  most  rugged  in  this  rugged  region. 
A  huge  peak  of  this  sort,  composed  of  stratified 
gneiss,  with  deep  strata  of  massive  red  and  grey 
granite,  stands  at  the  mouth  of  Hell-Boaring  River, 
and  takes  to  itself  the  same  imposing  name.  A  short 
distance  above  the  mouth  of  Hell  Roaring  River, 
the  East  Fork  of  the  Yellowstone  comes  in  from  the 
southeast.  Its  sources  are  high  up  among  the  most 
rugged  and  inaccessible  portions  of  the  basaltic 
range,  several  jagged  peaks  which  rise  from  10,000 
to  11,000  feet  above  the  sea. 

"  The  summits  of  these  high  peaks,"  observes  Mr. 
Hayden,  "  are  all  close,  compact  trachyte,  while  all 
around  the  sides  are  built  up  walls  of  stratified  con- 
glomerate. It  is  plain  that  all  of  them  are  the 
nuclei  of  old  volcanoes.  The  trachyte  may  some- 
times be  concealed  by  the  conglomerates,  but  I  am 
inclined  to  think  that  each  one  has  formed  a  cen- 
tre of  effusion.  Large  quantities  of  silicified  wood 
are  found  among  the  conglomerates,  mostly  inclosed 
in  the  volcanic  cement,  evidently  thrown  out  of  the 


52  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONE 

active  craters  with  the  fragments  of  basalt.  My 
impression  is,  that  when  the  old  volcanoes  dis- 
gorged their  contents  into  the  great  lake  of  waters 
around,  they  threw  out  also  portions  from  the  sedi- 
mentary formations,  and  thus  the  silicified  wood 
comes  from  the  Tertiarv  or  Cretaceous  beds,  which 
may  have  formed  the  upper  part  of  the  walls  of  the 
crater.  At  any  rate,  these  woods  belong  to  the 
Coal  Series  of  the  West,  and  they  are  scattered  pro- 
fusely among  the  conglomerates.  Interlaced  among 
the  massive  beds  of  volcanic  conglomerates  are 
some  layers  of  a  light-grey  or  whitish  sandy  clay, 
which  show  that  the  whole  breccia  or  conglomerates, 
with  the  intercalated  layers  of  clay  or  sand,  were 
deposited  in  water  like  any  sedimentary  water 
rocks." 

Interesting  ruins  of  ancient  springs  abound  in 
this  valley.  Mr.  Ilayden  describes  one,  a  very  cu- 
rious mammiform  mound  of  calcareous  deposit, 
about  forty  feet  high,  built  up  by  overlapping  lay- 
ers like  those  of  Liberty  Cap  on  Gardiner's  River. 

"  This  cone  is  a  complete  ruin.  No  water  issues 
from  it  at  the  present  time,  and  none  of  the  springs 
in  the  vicinity  are  above  the  ordinary  temperature 
of  brook-water  ;  sulphur,  alum,  and  other  chemical 
deposits  are  abundant.  This  old  ruin  is  a  fine  ex- 
ample of  the  tendency  of  the  cone  to  close  up  its 


QARDINEKS  HIVER    TO    GRAND    CANON         53 

summit  in  its  dying  stages.  The  top  of  the  cone  iy 
somewhat  broken  ;  but  it  is  eighteen  feet  in  diam- 
eter at  this  time,  and  near  the  centre  there  is  a  hole 
or  chimney  two  inches  in  diameter,  plainly  a  steam- 
vent.  This  marks  the  closing  history  of  this  spring. 
The  inner  portions  of  this  small  chimney  are  lined 
with  white  enamel,  thickly  coated  with  sulphur, 
which  gives  it  a  sulphur-yellow  hue.  The  base  upon 
which  the  cone  rests  varies  in  thickness.  On  the 
east  side  huge  masses  have  been  broken  off,  expos- 
ing a  vertical  wall  twenty  feet  high,  built  up  of  thin 
horizontal  laminae  of  limestone.  On  the  west  side 
the  wall  is  not  quite  as  high,  perhaps  eight  or  ten 
feet.  It  would  seem,  therefore,  that  it  was  at  .first 
an  overflowing  spring,  depositing  thin  horizontal 
layers^  until  it  built  up  a  broad  base  ten  to  twenty 
feet  in  height ;  then  it  gradually  became  a  spouting 
spring,  building  up  with  overlapping  layers  like  the 
thatch  on  a  house,  until  it  closed  itseK  at  the  top 
and  ceased." 

In  the  tongue  that  runs  down  between  the  junc- 
tion of  the  East  Fork  and  the  Yellowstone,  there  is 
a  singular  hutie  cut  off  fi*om  the  main  range,  which 
at  once  attracts  the  traveller's  attention.  The  basis 
or  lower  portion  of  the  hutte  is  granite,  while  the 
summit  is  capped  with  the  modern  basalt,  and  the 
dSyt'is  on  the  sides  and  at  the  base  is  remarkable  in 


54  WONDERS    OF    THE    I'ELLOWSTONK 

quantity,  and  lias  very  much  the  appearance  of  at 
anthracite  coal-heap.  This  hutte  will  always  form  a 
conspicuous  landmark,  not  only  on  account  of  its 
position,  but  also  from  its  peculiar  shape  and  struc- 
ture. 

Just  below  the  junction  of  the  East  Fork  the 
first  and  only  bridge  across  the  Yellowstone  was 
constructed  in  1870  for  the  accommodation  of  min- 
ers bound  for  the  "  diggings  "  on  Clark's  Fork.  It 
was  a  work  of  considerable  boldness,  as  the  river 
IS  some  two  hundred  feet  wide,  and  flows  with 
great  rapidity  over  its  narrow  and  rocky  channel. 

A  short  distance  above  the  bridge,  on  the  wes.t 
side  of  the  Yellowstone,  is  a  splendid  exhibition  of 
black  micaceous  gneiss,  forming  a  vertical  wall  on 
the  right  side  of  a  little  creek,  while  on  the  left  the 
entire  mass  of  the  hills  for  miles  in  extent  is  com- 
posed of  the  usual  igneous  rocks.  Through  these 
rocks  the  stream,  now  not  more  than  four  feet 
wide  and  six  inches  deep,  has  cut  a  channel  from 
two  hundred  to  four  hundred  yards  wide,  through 
the  hardest  rocks  to  a  depth  varying  from  five  hun- 
dred to  a  thousand  feet ! 

Further  up  the  Yellowstone,  on  the  same  side, 
are  a  number  of  wonderful  ravines  and  canons 
carved  in  like  manner  into  the  very  heart  of  the 
mountains.      Most    conspicuous    of    these    is    the 


QARDINEKS    RIVER    TO    GRAND  CANON.  55 

Canon  of  Tower  Creek.  Before  reaching  thai 
stream,  however,  Column  Rock,  a  noticeable  fea- 
ture in  a  landscape  of  great  extent  and  beauty, 
demands  at  least  a  passing  notice.  Column  Clifl' 
would  be  a  more  appropriate  name,  since  it  ex- 
tends along  the  east  bank  of  the  river  upwards  of 
two  miles.  Says  Mr.  Langford,  whose  observa- 
tions were  made  from  the  west  side  :  "  At  the 
distance  from  which  we  saw  it,  we  could  com- 
pare it  in  appearance  to  nothing  but  a  section 
of  the  Giant's  Causeway.  It  was  composed  of 
successive  pillars  of  basalt  overlying  and  un- 
derlying a  thick  stratum  of  cement  and  gravel 
resembling  pudding-stone.  In  both  rows,  the  pil- 
lars, standing  in  close  proximity,  were  each  about 
thirty  feet  high  and  from  three  to  five  feet 
in  diameter.  This  interesting  object,  more  from 
the  novelty  of  its  formation  and  its  beautiful 
surroundings  of  mountain  and  river  scenery  than 
anything  grand  or  impressive  in  its  appearance, 
excited  our  attention,  until  the  gathering  shades 
of  evening  reminded  us  of  the  necessity  of  se- 
lecting a  suitable  camp." 

Tower  Creek  rises  in  the  high  divide  between 
the  valleys  of  the  Missouri  and  the  Yellowstone, 
and  flows  for  about  ten  miles  through  a  canon 
BO  deep  and  gloomy  that  it  has   earned    the    ap- 


56  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONE. 

pellation,  "  Devil's  Den."  About  two  hundred 
yards  above  its  entrance  into  the  Yellowstone, 
the  stream  pours  over  an  abrupt  descent  of  one 
hundred  and  fifty-six  feet,  forming  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  falls  to  be  found  in  any  country. 
These  falls  are  about  260  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  Yellowstone  at  the  junction,  and  are 
surrounded  with  columns  of  volcanic  breccia, 
rising  fifty  feet  above  the  falls  and  extending 
down  to  the  foot,  standing  like  gloomy  sentinels, 
or  like  gigantic  pillars  at  the  entrance  of  some 
grand  temple.  "  One  could  almost  imagine,"  says 
Dr.  Hayden,  "  that  the  idea  of  the  Gothic  style 
of  architecture  had  been  caught  from  such  carv- 
ings of  nature." 

Speaking  of  the  symmetry  of  some  of  these 
columns,  Mr.  Langford  says  : 

*'  Some  resemble  towers,  others  the  spires  of 
churches,  and  others  still  shoot  up  as  lithe  and 
slender  as  the  minarets  of  a  mosque.  Some  of 
the  loftiest  of  these  formations,  standing  like 
sentinels  upon  the  very  brink  of  the  fall,  are  ac- 
cessible to  an  expert  and  adventurous  climber. 
The  position  attained  on  one  of  their  narrow 
summits,  amid  the  uproar  of  waters  and  at  a 
height  of  250  feet  above  the  boiling  chasm,  as 
the    writer    can   affirm,    requires   a   steady   head 


GARDINER'S    RIVER    TO   GRAND    GANOID  57 

and  strong  nerves;  yet  the  view  which  rewards 
the  temerity  of  the  exploit  is  full  of  compensa- 
tions. Below  the  fall  the  stream  descends  in 
numerous  rapids,  with  frightful  velocity,  through  a 
gloomy  gorge,  to  its  union  with  the  Yellowstone 
Its  bed  is  filled  with  enormous  boulders,  against 
which  the  rushing  waters  break  with  great  fury. 

Many  of  the  capricious  formations  wrought  from 
the  shale  excite  merriment  as  well  as  wonder.  Of 
this  kind  especially  was  a  huge  mass  sixty  feet  in 
height,  which,  from  its  supposed  resemblance  to 
the  proverbial  foot  of  his  Satanic  Majesty,  we 
called  the  "  Devil's  Hoof."  The  scenery  of  moun- 
tain, rock,  and  forest  surrounding  the  falls  is  very 
beautiful.  Here,  too,  the  hunter  and  fisherman  can 
indulge  their  tastes  with  the  certainty  of  ample  re- 
ward. As  a  half-way  resort  to  the  greater  wonders 
still  farther  up  the  marvellous  river,  the  visitor  of 
future  years  will  find  no  more  delightful  resting- 
place.  The  name  of  "  Tower  Falls,"  which  we  gave 
it,  was  suggested  by  some  of  the  most  conspicuous 
features  of  the  scenery." 

The  sides  of  the  chasm  are  worn  into  caverns 
lined  with  variously-tinted  mosses,  nourished  by 
clouds  of  spray  which  rise  from  the  cataract ;  while 
above,  and  to  the  left,  a  spur  from  the  great  pla- 
teau rises  over  all,  with  a  perpendicular  front  of  400 


58 


WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONK 


feet.  The  fall  is  accessible  botli  at  the  brink  and  at 
the  foot,  and  fine  views  can  be  obtained  from  either 
side  of  the  canon.  In  appearance  it  strongly  re- 
sembles Minnehaha,  but  is  several  times  as  high, 


THE  DEVILS  HOOV. 


and  the  volume  of  water  is  at  least  eight  times  as 
great.  In  the  basin  a  large  petrified  log  was  found 
imbedded  in  the  debris.     "  Nothing,"   says   Lieu- 


GARDINERS    RIVEK    TO    GRAND    CANON.         59 

tenant  Doane,  "  can  be  more  chastely  beautiful  than 
this  lovely  cascade,  hidden  away  in  the  dim  Ught  of 
overshadowing  rocks  and  woods,  its  very  voice 
hushed  to  a  low  murmur,  unheard  at  the  distance  of 
a  few  hundred  yards.  Thousands  might  pass  by 
within  a  haK  mile  and  not  dream  of  its  existence  ; 
but  once  seen,  it  passes  to  the  list  of  most  pleasant 
memories." 

Along  the  Yellowstone,  near  the  mouth  of  Tower 
Creek,  is  a  system  of  small  mineral  springs  distri- 
buted for  a  distance  of  two  miles  in  the  bottom  of 
the  deep  canon  through  which  the  river  runs.  Sev- 
eral of  these  springs  have  a  temperature  at  the  boil- 
ing point ;  many  are  highly  sulphurous,  holding,  in 
fact,  more  sulphur  than  they  can  carry  in  solution, 
and  depositing  it  in  yellowish  beds  along  their 
courses.  Several  of  them  are  impregnated  with  iron, 
alum,  and  other  substances.  Their  sulphurous 
fumes  can  be  detected  at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile. 
The  excess  of  sulphur  in  the  rock- walls  of  the  canon 
give  a  briUiant  yellow  color  to  the  rocks  in  many 
places.  The  formation  is  usually  very  friable,  fall- 
ing with  a  natural  slope  to  the  edge  of  the  stream, 
but  occasionally  masses  of  a  more  sohd  nature  pro- 
ject from  the  wall  in  curious  shapes  of  towers,  min- 
arets, and  the  like  ;  while  over  all  the  soHd  ledge  of 
trap,  with  its  dark  and  well-defined  columns,  makes 


60  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONK 

a  rich  and  beautiful  border  inclosing  the  pictured 
rocks  below. 

This  is  the  mouth  of   the  Grand  Canon  of   the 
Yellowstone. 


CHAPTEK  Vn. 

OVER  MOUNT  WASHBURN  TO  THE  FALLS  OP  THE 

YELLOWSTONE. 

THE  Upper  or  Grand  Canon  of  the  Yellowstone 
extends  from  the  mouth  of  Tower  Creek  to 
the  foot  of  the  Great  Fall,  a  distance  of  twenty 
miles.  It  is  impassable  throughout  its  entire  length, 
and  accessible  to  the  water's  edge  only  at  few  points 
and  by  dint  of  severe  labor.  The  trail  ascends  the 
divide  between  Tower  Creek  and  the  Yellowstone, 
skirting  for  six  or  eight  miles  the  canon  of  Tower 
Creek.  The  ground  rises  rapidly  and  is  much 
broken  by  creek-beds  running  parallel  with  the 
river.  Following  the  highest  ridges,  the  first  ex- 
plorers reached  at  last  a  point  whence  they  could 
overlook  the  Grand  Canon  cleaving  the  slopes  and 
breaking;  through  the  lofty  mountain  ranges  in  front. 
Here  they  caught  their  first  glimpse  of  a  phenome- 
non afterwards  to  become  a  familiar  sight  to  them. 
Through  the  mountain  gap  formed  by  the  canon, 


62  mONDERS   OF   THE   TELLOWSTONK 

and  on  the  interior  slopes  some  twenty  miles  distant, 
an  object  appeared  which  drew  a  simultaneous  ex- 
pression of  wonder  from  every  one  in  the  party.  It 
was  a  column  of  steam,  rising  from  the  dense  woods 
to  the  height  of  several  hundred  feet.  They  had 
all  heard  fabulous  stories  of  this  region,  and  were 
somewhat  skeptical  of  appearances.  At  first  it  was 
pronounced  a  fire  in  the  woods,  but  presently  some 
one  noticed  that  the  vapor  rose  in  regular  puffs,  as 
if  expelled  with  a  great  force.  Then  conviction 
was  forced  upon  them.  It  was,  indeed,  a  great 
column  of  steam,  puffing  away  on  the  lofty  moun- 
tain side,  with  a  roaring  sound,  audible  at  a  long 
distance,  even  through  the  heavy  forest.  A  hearty 
cheer  rang  out  at  this  discovery,  and  they  pressed 
onward  with  renewed  enthusiasm. 

The  highest  peak  of  this  ridge  was  named  by  the 
first  company  who  climbed  it — Mount  Washburn — 
in  honor  of  their  leader.  The  view  from  its  sum- 
mit is  "  grand  bej^ond  description ;"  yet  some  con- 
ception of  its  grandeur  can  be  formed,  let  us  hope, 
from  the  graphic  review  of  its  more  striking  fea- 
tures by  Lieutenant  Doane. 

"  Looking  northward,  the  great  plateau  stretches 
away  from  the  base  of  the  mountain  to  the  fi'ont 
and  left  with  its  innumerable  groves  and  sparkling 
waters,  a  variegated  landscaj^e  of  surpassing  beauty, 


MOUNT    WASHBURN    TO    THE   FALLS.  63 

bounded  on  its  extreme  verge  by  the  canons  of  the 
Yellowstone.  The  pure  atmosphere  of  this  lofty 
region  causes  every  outline  of  tree,  rock,  or  lakelet 
to  be  visible  with  wonderful  distinctness,  and  objects 
twenty  miles  away  appear  as  if  very  near  at  hand. 
Still  further  to  the  left  the  snowy  ranges  on  the 
headwaters  of  Gardiner's  River  stretch  away  to  the 
westward,  joining  those  on  the  head  of  the  Gallatin, 
and  forming,  with  the  Elephant's  Back,  a  continu- 
ous chain,  bending  constantly  to  the  south,  the  rim 
of  the  Yellowstone  Basin.  On  the  verge  of  the 
horizon  appear,  hke  mole-hiUs  in  the  distance,  and 
far  below,  the  white  summits  above  the  Gallatin 
Valley.  These  never  thaw  during  the  summer 
months,  though  several  thousand  feet  lower  than 
where  we  now  stand  upon  the  bare  granite,  and  no 
Bnow  visible  near,  save  in  the  depths  of  shaded 
ravines.  Beyond  the  plateau  to  the  right  front  is 
the  deep  valley  of  the  East  Fork  bearing  away  east- 
ward, and  still  beyond,  ragged  volcanic  peaks, 
heaped  in  inextricable  confusion,  as  far  as  the  limit 
of  vision  extends.  On  the  east,  close  beneath  our 
feet,  yawns  the  immense  gulf  of  the  Grand  Canon, 
cutting  away  the  bases  of  two  mountains  in  forcing 
a  passage  through  the  range.  Its  yellow  walls 
divide  the  landscape  nearly  in  a  straight  line  to  the 
junction  of  Warm  Spring  (Tower)  Creek  below.    The 


64  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONK 

ragged  edges  ol'  the  chasm  are  from  two  hundred 
to  five  hundred  yards  apart,  its  depth  so  profound 
that  the  river  bed  is  nowhere  visible.  No  sound 
reaches  the  ear  from  the  bottom  of  the  abyss  ;  the 
sun's  rays  are  reflected  on  the  farther  wall  and  then 
lost  in  the  darkness  below.  The  mind  struggles 
and  then  falls  back  upon  itself,  despairing  in  the 
efforts  to  grasp  by  a  single  thought  the  idea  of  its 
immensity.  Beyond,  a  gentle  declivity,  sloping 
from  the  summit  of  the  broken  range,  extends  to 
the  Umit  of  vision,  a  wilderness  of  unbroken  pine 
forest. 

"  Turning  southward,  a  new  and  strange  scene 
bursts  upon  the  view.  Filling  the  whole  field  of 
vision,  and  with  its  boundaries  in  the  verge  of  the 
horizon,  lies  the  great  volcanic  basin  of  the  Yellow- 
stone— nearly  circular  in  form,  from  fifty  to  seventy- 
five  miles  in  diameter,  and  with  a  general  de- 
pression of  about  2,000  feet  below  the  summits 
of  the  great  ranges  which  form  its  outer  rim. 
Mount  Washburn  lies  in  the  point  of  the  cir- 
cumference, northeast  from  the  centre  of  the  basin  ; 
far  away  in  the  southwest,  the  three  great  Tetons  on 
Snake  River  fill  another  space  in  the  circle  ;  connect- 
ing iJiese  two  highest  are  crescent  ranges,  one  west- 
ward and  south,  past  Gardiner's  River  and  the 
Gallatin,  bounding  the  lower  Madison,  thence  to  the 


MOUNT  WASHBURN    TO    THE  FALLS.  65 

Jefferson  and  by  the  Snake  River  range  to  tlie  Te- 
tons ;    another  eastward  and   south,  a   continuous 
range  by  the  head  of  Rose  Bud,  inclosing  the  sources 
of  the  Snake,  and  joining  the  Tetons  beyond.     Be- 
tween the  south  and  west  points,  this  vast  circle  is 
broken  through  in  many  places  for  the  passage  of 
the  rivers ;  but  a  single  glance  at  the  interior  slopes 
of  the  ranges  shows  that  a  former  complete  connec- 
tion existed,  and  that  the  great  basin  has  been  one 
vast  crater  of  a  now  extinct  volcano.     The  nature 
of  the  rocks,  the  steepness  and  outline  of  the  inte- 
rior walls,  together  with  other  peculiarities  to  be 
mentioned  hereafter,  render  this  conclusion  a  cer- 
tainty.    The  lowest  point  in  this  great  amphitheatre 
lies  directly  in  front  of  us,  and  about  eight  miles 
distant:   a  grassy  valley,  branching  between  low 
ridges,  running  from  "the  river  toward  the  centre  of 
the  basin.     A  small  stream   rises  in   this  valley, 
breaking  through  the  ridges  to  the  west  in  a  deep 
canon,  and  falling  into  the  channel  of  the  Yellow- 
stone, which  here  bears  in  a  northeast  course,  flow- 
ing in  view  as  far  as  the  confluence  of  the  small 
stream,  thence  plunged  into  the  Grand  Canon,  and 
hidden  from  sight.     No  falls  can  be  seen,  but  their 
location  is  readily  detected  by  the  sudden   disap- 
pearance of  the  river ;  beyond  this  open  valley  the 
basm  appears  to  be  filled  with  a  succession  of  low, 


66  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONR 

converging  ridges,  heavily  timbered,  and  all  of  about 
an  equal  altitude. 

"  To  the  south  appears  a  broad  sheet  of  water — 
the  Yellowstone  Lake.  Across  the  Grand  Canon, 
on  the  slope  of  the  great  mountain  wall,  is  the  steam 
jet  seen  this  morning ;  and  in  the  next  ravine  be- 
yond it  are  six  more  of  inferior  volume.  Still  far- 
ther south  are  others,  to  the  number  of  perhaps 
twenty,  and  to  the  southwest  more  of  them,  scat- 
tered over  the  vast  expanse  of  the  basin,  rising  from 
behind  the  wooded  hills  in  every  direction.  The 
view  in  this  respect  strongly  resembles  that  from  the 
iUleghanies,  where  they  overlook  iron  and  coal  dis- 
tricts, with  all  their  furnaces  in  active  operation, 
save  that  one  looks  in  vain  here  for  the  thrifty 
towns,  country  villas,  steamboats,  and  raikoad 
depots." 

Does  this  picture  seem  overdrawn  ?  The  briefer 
and  less  enthusiastic  description  of  Dr.  Hayden 
confirms  its  truth,  though  he  does  not  accept  in  full 
Lieutenant  Doane's  interpretation  of  it.  He  says, 
m  his  official  report : 

"  The  view  from  the  summit  of  Mount  Wash- 
burn is  one  of  the  finest  I  have  ever  seen,  and  al- 
though the  atmosphere  was  somewhat  obscured  by 
gmoke,  yet  an  area  of  fifty  to  one  hundred  miles  ra- 
dius in  every  direction  could  be  seen  more  or  less 


MOUNT  WASHHURN  TO  THE  FALLS,  67 

distinctly.     We    caught    the   first  glimpse   of   the 
great  basin   of    the    Yellowstone,    with  the  lake, 
which  reminded  one  much,  from  its  bays,  indenta- 
tions,  and   surrounding   mountains,    of  Great  Salt 
Lake.     To  the  south  are  the  Tetons,   rising  high 
above  all  the  rest,  the  monarchs  of  all  they  survey, 
with  their  summits  covered  with  perpetual  snow.    To 
the  southwest  an  immense  area  of  dense  pine  forests 
extends  for  one  hundred  miles  without  a  peak  ris- 
ing above  the  black,  level  mass.     A  little  farther  to 
the  southwest  and  west   are  the  Madison  Moun- 
tains, a  lofty,  grand,  snow-capped  range,  extending 
far  to  the  northward.     Nearer  and  in  full  view,  to 
the  west  commence  the  bold  peaks  of  the  Gallatin 
Range,  extending  northward  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach.     To  the  north  we  get  a  full  view  of  the  val- 
ley of  the  Yellowstone,  with  the  lofty  ranges  that 
wall  it  in.     Emigrant  Peak,  and  the  splendid  group 
of  mountains  of  which  it  is  a  part,  can  be  clearly 
seen,  and  lose  none  of  their  marvellous  beauty  of 
outline,  view  them  from  what  point  we  may.     To 
the  north  and  east  the  eye  scans  the  most  remarka- 
ble chaotic  mass  of  peaks  of  the  most  rugged  char- 
acter, apparently  without  system,  yet  sending  tlieir 
jagged  summits  high  up  among  the  clouds.     Far- 
ther distant    are  somewhat  more  regular  ranges, 
Bnow-covered,  probably  the  Big  Horn.     But  with 


68  WONDERS    OF   THE    rELLOWSTONR 

all  this  magnificent  scenery  around  us  from  every 
side,  the  greatest  beauty  was  the  lake,  in  full  view 
to  the  southeast,  set  like  a  gem  amid  the  high 
mountains,  which  are  Uterally  bristling  with  peaks, 
many  of  them  capped  with  snow.  These  are  all  of 
volcanic  origin,  and  the  fantastic  shapes  which 
many  of  them  have  assumed  under  the  hand  of 
time,  called  forth  a  variety  of  names  from  my  par- 
ty. There  were  two  of  them  that  represented  the 
human  profile  so  well  that  we  called  them  the 
"  Giant's  Face  "  and  "  Old  Man  of  the  Mountain." 
These  formed  good  landmarks  for  the  topographer, 
for  they  were  visible  from  every  point  of  the  basin." 

As  regards  the  geological  character  of  the  coun- 
try seen  from  Mount  Washburn,  Dr.  Hayden  ob- 
serves, in  discussing  the  geology  of  the  region : 

"  We  may  say,  in  brief,  that  the  entire  basin  of 
the  Yellowstone  is  volcanic.  I  am  not  prepared  to 
pronounce  it  a  crater,  with  a  lake  occupying  the  in- 
ner portion,  while  the  mountains  that  surround  the 
basin  are  the  ruins  of  this  great  crater  ;  but,  at  a 
period  not  very  remote  in  the  geological  past,  this 
whole  country  was  a  scene  of  wonderful  volcanic 
activity.  I  regard  the  hot  springs  so  abundant  all 
over  the  valley  as  the  last  stages  of  this  grand  scene. 
Hot  springs,  geysers,  etc.,  are  so  intimately  con- 
nected with  what  we  usually  term  volcanoes  that 


MOUNT  WASHBURN  TO  TEE  FALLS.  69 

their  origin  and  action  admit  of  the  same  explana- 
tion. Both  undoubtedly  form  safety-valves  or  vents 
for  the  escape  of  the  powerful  forces  that  have  been 
generated  in  the  interior  of  the  earth  since  the  com- 
mencement of  our  present  period  ;  the  tme  volcanic 
action  has  ceased,  but  the  safety-valves  are  the 
thousands  of  hot  springs  all  over  this  great  area. 
I  beheve  that  the  time  of  the  greatest  volcanic  ac- 
tivity occurred  during  the  Pliocene  period — smoke, 
ashes,  fragments  of  rock,  and  lava  poured  forth 
from  thousands  of  orifices  into  the  surrounding 
waters.  Hundreds  of  cones  were  built  up,  frag- 
ments of  which  still  remain ;  and  around  them  were 
arranged  by  the  water  the  dust  and  fragments  of 
rock,  the  ejedamenta  of  these  volcanoes,  in  the  form 
of  the  conglomerate  or  breccia  as  we  find  it  now. 
These  orifices  may  have  been  of  every  possible 
form — ^rounded  or  oblong,  mere  fissures,  perhaps, 
extending  for  miles,  and  building  up  their  own 
crater  rims  as  the  hot  springs  build  up  their  rounded, 
conical  peaks  or  oblong  mounds  at  the  present 
time." 

Leaving  Mount  Washburn,  with  its  summit  piles 
of  basalt,  and  its  precipitous  slope  scattered  with 
agates  and  beautiful  fragments  of  sardonyx,  chalce- 
dony, and  malachite,  let  us  descend  to  the  valley. 

The  trail  pursues  a  tortuous  way  to  avoid  tho 


70  WONVEliS    OF   TEE    YELlOWSTONK 

fallen  timber  and  the  dense  groves  of  pine,  descend- 
ing the  almost  vertical  inner  sides  of  the  rim  of  the 
Yellowstone  Basin,  to  the  valley  of  a  small  creek. 
Two  or  three  miles  down  this  stream  is  a  hideous 
glen,  filled  with  sulphurous  vapor  emitted  from  six 
or  eight  boiling  springs  of  great  size  and  activity. 
Mr.  Langford  says  of  this  unsavory  place  : 

"  It  looked  like  nothing  earthly  we  had  ever  seen, 
and  the  pungent  fumes  which  filled  the  atmosphere 
were  .not  unaccompanied  by  a  disagreeable  sense  of 
possible  suffocation.  Entering  the  basin  cautiously, 
we  found  the  entire  surface  of  the  earth  covered 
with  the  incrusted  sinter  thrown  from  the  s]3rings. 
Jets  of  hot  vapor  were  expelled  through  a  hundred 
natural  orifices  with  which  it  was  pierced,  and 
through  every  fracture  made  by  passing  over  it. 
The  springs  themselves  were  as  diabolical  in  appear- 
ance as  the  witches'  caldron  in  Macbeth,  and  needed 
but  the  presence  of  Hecate  and  her  weird  band  to 
realize  that  horrible  creation  of  poetic  fancy.  They 
were  all  in  a  state  of  violent  ebullition,  throwing 
their  liquid  contents  to  the  height  of  three  or  four 
feet.  The  largest  had  a  basin  twenty  by  forty  feet 
in  diameter.  Its  greenish-yellow  water  was  covered 
with  bubbles,  which  were  constantly  rising,  bursting, 
and  emitting  sulphurous  gas  from  various  parts  of 
its  surface.    The  central  spring  seethed  and  bubbled 


MOUNT  WASHBURN  TO  THE  FALLS,  71 

like  a  boiling  caldron.  Fearful  volumes  of  vapor 
were  constantly  escaping  it.  Near  it  was  another, 
not  so  large,  but  more  infernal  in  appearance.  Its 
contents,  of  the  consistency  of  paint,  were  in  con- 
stant, noisy  ebullition.  A  stick  thrust  into  it,  on 
being  withdrawn,  was  coated  with  lead-colored 
shme  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Nothing 
flows  from  this  spring.  Seemingly,  it  is  boiling 
down.  A  fourth  spring,  which  exhibited  the  same 
physical  features,  was  partly  covered  by  an  over- 
hanging ledge  of  rock.  We  tried  to  fathom  it,  but 
the  bottom  was  beyond  the  reach  of  the  longest  pole 
we  could  find.  Eocks  cast  into  it  increased  the  agi- 
tation of  its  waters.  There  were  several  other 
springs  in  the  group,  smaller  in  size,  but  presenting 
the  same  characteristics. 

"  The  approach  to  them  was  unsafe,  the  incrust- 
ation surrounding  them  bending  in  many  places  be- 
neath our  weight, — and  from  the  fractures  thus  cre- 
ated would  ooze  a  sulphury  slime  of  the  consistency 
of  mucilage.  It  was  with  great  difficulty  that  we 
obtained  specimens  from  the  natural  apertures  with 
which  the  crust  is  filled, — a  feat  which  was  accom- 
plished by  one  only  of  our  party,  who  extended  him- 
seK  at  full  length  upon  that  portion  of  the  incrust- 
ation which  yielded  the  least,  but  which  was  not 
sufficiently  strong  to  bear  his  weight  while  in  an  up- 


72 


WONDERS    OF    THE    YELL0W8T0NK 


right  position,  and  at  imminent  risk  of  sinking  into 
the  infernal  mixture,  rolled  over  and  over  to  the 
edge  of  the  opening,  and  with  the  crust  slowly  bend- 
ing and  sinking  beneath  him,  hurriedly  secured  the 
coveted  prize. 


GETTING  A   SPECIMEN. 


"  There  was  something  so  revolting  in  the  general 
appearance  of  the  springs  and  their  surroundings — 
the  foulness  of  the  vapors,  the  infernal  contents,  the 
treacherous  incrustation,  the  noisy  ebullition,  the 
general  appearance  of  desolation,  and  the  seclusion 
imd  wildness  of    the   location — that,  though   awe- 


MOUNT    WASHBURN    TO    THE    FALLS.  73 

struck,  we  were  not  unreluctant  to  continue  oui 
journey  without  making  them  a  second  visit." 

Once  more  our  amateur  explorers  had  recourse  to 
their  western  vocabulary,  and  bestowed  on  this  un- 
happy locality  the  title,  "Hell -broth  Springs  " — 
which,  says  the  historian  of  the  expedition, "  fully 
expressed  our  appreciation  of  their  character." 

The  following  season  this  remarkable  group  of 
springs  was  thoroughly  examined  by  the  party 
under  Dr.  Hayden.     That  careful  observer  says  : 

"  They  are  evidently  diminishing  in  power,  but 
the  rims  all  around  reveal  the  most  powerful  mani- 
festations far  back  in  the  past.  Sulphur,  copper, 
alum,  and  soda  cover  the  surface.  There  is  also 
precipitated  around  the  borders  of  some  of  the 
mud  springs  a  white  efflorescence,  probably  nitrate 
of  potash.  These  springs  are  located  on  the  side 
of  the  .mountain,  nearly  1,000  feet  above  the  margin 
of  the  canon,  but  extend  along  into  the  level  por- 
tions below.  .  .  .  One  of  these  springs  was  bub- 
bling quite  briskly,  but  had  a  temperature  of  only 
100°.  Near  it  is  a  turbid  spring  of  170°.  In  the 
valley  are  a  large  number  of  turbid,  mud,  and  boil- 
ing springs,  with  temperatures  from  175°  to  185°. 
There  are  a  number  of  springs  that  issue  from  the 
Bide  of  the  mountain,  and  the  waters,  gathering  into 
one  channel,  flow  into  the  Yellowstone,     The  num- 


74  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONE. 

ber  of  frying  or  simmering  springs  is  great.  The 
ground  in  many  places,  for  several  yards  in  every 
direction,  is  perforated  like  a  sieve,  and  the  water 
bubbles  by  with  a  simmering  noise.  There  is  one 
huge  boihng  spring  which  deposits  fine  black  mud 
all  around  the  sides.  The  depth  of  the  crater  of 
this  spring,  its  dark,  gloomy  appearance,  and  the 
tremendous  force  which  it  manifested  in  its  opera- 
tions, led  us  to  name  it  the  "  Devil's  Caldron." 
There  are  a  large  number  of  springs  here,  but  no 
true  geysers.  It  is  plainly  the  last  stages  of  what 
was  once  a  most  remarkable  group.  Extending 
across  the  caiion  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Yellow- 
stone, interrupted  here  and  there,  this  group  of 
springs  extends  for  several  miles,  forming  one  of  the 
largest  deposits  of  silica,  but  only  here  and  there 
are  there  signs  of  life.  Many  of  the  dead 
springs  are  mere  basins,  with  a  thick  deposit  of  iron 
on  the  sides,  lining  the  channel  of  the  water  that 
flows  from  them.  These  vary  in  temperature  from 
98°  to  120°.  The  highest  temperature  was  192°. 
The  steam-vents  are  very  numerous,  and  the  chim- 
neys are  lined  with  sulphur.  Where  the  crust  can 
be  removed,  we  find  the  under  side  lined  with  the 
most  delicate  crystals  of  sulphur,  which  disappear 
Like  frost-work  at  the  touch.  Still  there  is  a  con- 
siderable amount  of  solid  amorphous  sulphur.     The 


MOUNT  WASHBURN    TO    THE   FALLS.  ^g 

sulphur  and  the  iron,  with  the  vegetable  matter 
which  is  always  very  abundant  about  the  springs, 
give,  through  the  almost  infinite  variety  of  shades, 
a  most  pleasing  and  striking  picture.  One  of  the 
mud  springs,  with  a  basin  twenty  by  twenty-five 
feet,  and  six  feet  deep,  is  covered  with  large  bub- 
bles or  puffs  constantly  bursting  with  a  thud.  There 
are  a  number  of  high  hills  in  this  vicinity  entirely 
composed  of  the  hot-spring  deposits,  at  least  nine- 
tenths  silica,  appearing  snowy- white  in  the  distance  ; 
one  of  the  walls  is  175  feet  high,  and  another  about 
70  feet.  They  are  now  covered  to  a  greater  or  less 
extent  with  pines.  Steam  is  constantly  issuing  from 
vents  around  the  base  and  from  the  sides  of  these 
hills.  There  is  one  lake  100  by  300  yards,  with  a 
number  of  bubbling  and  boiling  springs  rising  to 
the  surface.  Near  the  shore  is  one  of  the  sieve- 
springs,  with  a  great  number  of  small  perforations, 
fi'om  which  the  water  bubbles  up  with  a  simmering 
noise  ;  temperature,  188°.  This  group  really  forms 
one  of  the  great  ruins." 

A  short  day's  march  from  Hell-broth  Spring  brings 
the  traveller  to  a  little  stream  flowing  into  the  Yel- 
lowstone, between  the  upper  and  the  lower  fall. 
From  its  rapid  and  tumultuous  flow,  the  first  explorers 
called  it  Cascade  Creek.  Just  before  its  union  with 
the   Yellowstone   it  traverses  a  gloomy  gorge  cut 


76  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWtilVNK 

througli  a  kind  of  volcanic  sandstone,  largely  made  up 
of  fragments  of  obsidian  and  other  igneous  rocks  ce- 
mented with  volcanic  ash.  This  rock  is  worn  by  the 
water  into  so  many  fantastic  shapes  and  cavernous  re- 
cesses, that — with  their  usual  poverty  of  invention 
and  tartarean  taste — the  first  observers  straightway 
gave  the  uncanny  channel  over  to  the  Prince  of  Dark- 
ness, and  dubbed  it  the  Devil's  Den.  A  mile  be- 
low this  gorge  the  stream  flows  over  a  series  of 
ledges,  making  a  cascade  as  beautiful  as  its  pre- 
vious course  has  been  weird  and  ugly.  There  is 
first  a  fall  of  five  feet,  which  is  immediately  suc- 
ceeded by  another  of  fifteen,  into  a  pool  as  clear  as 
amber,  nestled  beneath  overarching  rocks.  Here 
the  stream  lingers  as  if  half  reluctant  to  continue 
its  course,  then  gracefully  emerges  from  the  grotto, 
and,  veiling  the  rocks  down  an  abrupt  descent  of 
eighty-four  feet,  passes  rapidly  on  to  the  Yellow- 
stone. For  a  wonder,  this  charming  fall  has  re- 
ceived a  corresponding  name — Crystal  Cascade.  An 
infinite  variety  of  volcanic  specimens,  quartz,  feld- 
spar, mica,  granites,  lavas,  basalts,  composite  crys- 
tals— in  fact,  every  tiling,  from  asbestos  to  obsidian, 
is  represented  by  fragments  in  the  bed  of  this  stream. 
At  the  foot  of  the  gorge  and  on  the  margin  of  the 
lellowstone  stands  a  high  promontory  of  concre- 
tionary la^a, literally  filled  with  volcanic  butternuts 


THE  DEYIL'S  DEN, 


WONBETtB    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONR  77 

Many  of  these  are  loose,  and  can  be  taken  out  of 
the  rock  with  the  hand  ;  broken  open,  they  are  in- 
variably hollow,  and  Hned  with  minute  quartz  crys- 
tals of  various  tints.  This  rare  formation  occurs 
frequently  in  the  great  basin. 


CHAPTER   VIIL 

IHE  GRAND  CANON  AND  THE  FALLS. 

NO  language,"  says  Dr.  Hayden,  "  can  do  jus- 
tice to  the  wonderful  grandeur  and  beauty  of 
the  Grand  Canon."  It  has  no  parallel  in  the 
world.  Through  the  eye  alone  can  any  just  idea  be 
gained  of  its  strange,  awful,  fascinating,  unearthly 
blending  of  the  majestic  and  the  beautiful ;  and, 
even  in  its  visible  presence,  the  mind  fails  to  com- 
prehend the  weird  and  unfamihar,  almost  incredible 
scenes  it  reveals.  Says  Mr.  Langford  :  "  The  brain 
reels  as  we  gaze  into  this  profound  and  solemn 
solitude.  We  shrink  from  the  dizzy  verge  ap- 
palled, glad  to  feel  the  solid  earth  under  our  feet, 
and  venture  no  more,  except  with  forms  extended, 
and  faces  barely  protruding  over  the  edge  of  the 
precipice.  The  stillness  is  horrible.  Down,  down, 
down,  we  see  the  river  attenuated  to  a  thread,  toss- 
ing its  miniature  waves,   and  dashing,  with  punj 


THE  GRAND  CANON  AND  THE  FALLS.  79 

strength,  against  the  massive  walls  which  imprison 
it.  All  access  to  its  margin  is  denied,  and  the 
dark  gray  rocks  hold  it  in  dismal  shadow.  Even 
the  voice  of  its  waters  in  their  convulsive  agony 
cannot  be  heard.  Uncheered  by  plant  or  shrub, 
obstructed  with  massive  boulders  and  by  jutting 
points,  it  rushes  madly  on  its  solitary  course.  The 
solemn  grandeur  of  the  scene  surpasses  descrip- 
tion. The  sense  of  danger  with  which  it  impresses 
you  is  harrowing  in  the  extreme.  You  feel  the  ab- 
sence of  sound,  the  oppression  of  absolute  silence. 
If  you  could  only  hear  that  gurgling  river,  if  you 
could  see  a  living  tree  in  the  depth  beneath  you,  if 
a  bird  would  fly  past,  if  the  wind  would  move  any 
object  in  the  awful  chasm,  to  break  for  a  moment 
the  solemn  silence  that  reigns  there,  it  would  re- 
Heve  that  tension  of  the  nerves  which  the  scene 
has  excited,  and  you  would  rise  from  your  pros- 
trate condition  and  thank  God  that  he  had  per- 
mitted you  to  gaze,  unharmed,  upon  this  majestic 
display  of  natural  architecture.  As  it  is,  sympa- 
thizing in  spirit  with  the  deep  gloom  of  the  scene, 
you  crawl  from  the  dreadful  verge,  scared  lest  the 
firm  rock  give  way  beneath  and  precipitate  you 
into  the  horrid  gulf." 

"  The  fearful   descent  into  this  terrific  canon," 
Mr.  Langford  adds,  "  was  accomplished  with  great 


80  WONDERS    OF    THE    TELLOWSTONK 

difficulty  by  Messrs.  Hauser  and  Stickney,  at  a 
point  about  two  miles  below  the  falls.  By  trigo- 
nometrical measurement  they  found  the  chasm  at 
that  point  to  be  1,190  feet  deep.  Their  ascent 
from  it  was  perilous,  and  it  was  only  by  making 
good  use  of  hands  and  feet,  and  keeping  the 
nerves  braced  to  the  utmost  tension,  that  they 
were  enabled  to  clamber  up  the  precipitous  rocks 
to  a  safe  landing-place." 

Lieutenant  Doane  also  made  the  descent,  some- 
what further  down  the  river,  accompanied  by  one 
of  his  company.  Selecting  the  channel  of  a  small 
creek,  they  scrambled  down  its  steep  descent,  wad- 
ing in  the  stream. 

"  On  entering  the  ravine,  we  came  at  once  to  hot 
springs  of  sulphur,  sulphate  of  copper,  alum, 
steam  jets,  etc.,  in  endless  variety,  some  of  them  of 
very  peculiar  form.  One  of  them  in  particular,  of 
sulphur,  had  built  up  a  tall  spire,  standing  out 
from  the  slope  of  the  wall  like  an  enormous  horn, 
with  hot  water  trickling  down  its  sides.  The  creek 
ran  on  a  bed  of  solid  rock,  in  many  places  smooth 
and  slippery,  in  others  obstructed  by  masses  of  de- 
bris fi'om  the  overhanging  cliffs  of  the  sulphureted 
limestone  above.  After  descending  for  three  milea 
in  the  channel  we  came  to  a  sort  of  bench  or  ter- 
race, the   same  one  seen  previously  in  following 


THE  GRAND  CANON  AND  THE  hALLS.  81 

down  the  creek  from  our  first  camp  in  the  basin. 
Here  we  found  a  large  flock  of  mountain  sheep, 
very  tame,  and  greatly  astonished,  no  doubt,  at  our 
Budden  appearance.  McConnell  killed  one  and 
wounded  another,  whereupon  the  rest  disappeared, 
clambering  up  the  steep  walls  with  a  celerity  truly 
astonishing.  We  were  now  1,500  feet  below  the 
brink.  From  here  the  creek  channel  was  more 
precipitous,  and  for  a  mile  we  made  our  way  down 
over  masses  of  rock  and  fallen  trees,  splashing  in 
warm  water,  ducking  under  cascades,  and  skirting 
close  against  sidelong  places  to  keep  from  |alling 
into  boiling  caldrons  in  the  channel.  After  four 
hours  of  hard  labor  we  reached  the  bottom  of  the 
gulf  and  the  margin  of  the  Yellowstone,  famished 
with  thirst,  wet  and  exhausted.  The  river-water 
here  is  quite  warm,  and  of  a  villainously  alnm  and 
sulphurous  taste.  Its  margin  is  lined  with  all 
kinds  of  chemical  springs,  some  depositing  craters 
of  calcareous  rock,  others  muddy,  black,  blue, 
slaty,  or  reddish  water.  The  internal  heat  renders 
the  atmosphere  oppressive,  though  a  strong-  breeze 
draws  through  the  canon.  A  frying  sound  comes 
constantly  to  the  ear,  mingled  with  the  rush  of  the 
current.  The  place  abounds  with  sickening  and 
purgatorial  smells.  We  had  come  down  the  ravine 
at  least  four  miles,  and  looking  upward  the  fearful 


g2  WONDERS    OF   THE    TELLOWSTONK 

wall  appeared  to  reach  the  sky.  It  was  about 
three  o'clock  P.M.,  and  stars  could  be  distinctly 
seen,  so  much  of  the  sunlight  was  cut  off  from  en- 
tering the  chasm.  Tall  pines  on  the  extreme  verge 
appeared  the  height  of  two  or  three  feet.  The 
caiion,  as  before  said,  was  in  two  benches,  with  a 
plateau  on  either  side,  about  half  way  down.  This 
plateau,  about  a  hundred  yards  in  width,  looked 
from  below  like  a  mere  shelf  against  the  wall ;  the 
total  depth  was  not  less  than  2,500  feet,  and  more 
probably  3,000.  There  are  perhaps  other  canons 
longer  and  deeper  than  this  one,  but  surely  none 
combining  grandeur  and  immensity  with  such  pe- 
cuharity  of  formation  and  profusion  of  volcanic  or 
chemical  phenomena."- 

The  history  of  this  tremendous  chasm  is  not  hard 
to  read.  Ages  ago  this  whole  region  was  the  basin 
of  an  immense  lake.  Then  it  became  a  centre  of 
volcanic  activity ;  vast  quantities  of  lava  was  erupt- 
ed, which,  coohng  under  water,  took  the  form  of 
basalt ;  volumes  of  volcanic  ash  and  rock-fragments 
were  thrown  out  from  the  craters  from  time  to  time, 
forming  breccia  as  it  sunk  through  the  water  and 
mingled  with  the  deposits  from  sihcious  springs. 
Over  this  were  spread  the  later  deposits  from  the 
waters  of  the  old  lake.  In  time  the  country  waa 
slowly  elevated,  and  the  lake  was  drained  away. 


TBE  GRAND  CANON  AND  THE  FALLS.  83 

The  easily  eroded  breccia  along  the  river  channel 
was  cut  out  deeper  and  deeper  as  the  ages  passed, 
while  springs  and  creeks  and  the  falling  rain  com- 
bined to  carve  the  sides  of  the  canon  into  the  fan- 
tastic forms  they  now  present,  by  wearing  away  the 
softer  rock,  and  leaving  the  hard  basalt  and  the 
firmer  hot-spring  deposits  standing  in  massive 
columns  and  Gothic  pinnacles.  The  basis  material 
of  the  old  hot  spring  deposits  in  sihca,  originally 
white  as  snow,  are  now  stained  by  mineral  waters 
with  every  shade  of  red  and  yellow — from  scarlet  to 
rose  color,  from  bright  sulphur  to  the  daintiest  tint 
of  cream.  When  the  hght  falls  favorably  on  these 
blended  tints  the  Grand  Canon  presents  a  more  en- 
chanting and  bewildering  variety  of  forms  and 
colors  than  human  artist  ever  conceived. 

The  erosion  was  practically  arrested  at  the  upper 
end  of  the  canon  by  a  sudden  transition  from  the 
softer  breccia  to  hard  basalt,  and  the  falls  are  the 
result.  From  below  the  Upper  Fall  the  vertical  wall 
of  basalt  can  be  clearly  seen  passmg  diagonally 
across  the  rim.     The  Lower  Fall  was  formed  in  the 

same  way. 

"  A  grander  scene  than  the  lower  cataract  of  the 
Yellowstone,"  writes  Mr.  Langford,  "was  never 
witnessed  by  mortal  eyes.  The  volume  seemed  to 
be  adapted  to  all  the  harmonies  of  the  surrounding 


84  WONDERS   OF   THE    YELLOWSTONE 

scenery.  Had  it  been  greater  or  smaller  it  would 
have  been  less  impressive.  The  river,  from  a  width 
of  two  hundred  feet  above  the  fall,  is  compressed 
bj  converging  rocks  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet, 
where  it  takes  the  plunge.  The  shelf  over  which  it 
falls  is  as  level  and  even  as  a  work  of  art.  The 
height,  by  actual  line  measurement,  is  a  few  inches 
more  than  350  feet.  It  is  a  sheer,  compact,  solid, 
perpendicular  sheet,  faultless  in  all  the  elements  of 
grandeur  and  picturesque  beauties.  The  canon 
which  commences  at  the  upper  fall,  half  a  mile 
above  this  cataract,  is  here  a  thousand  feet  in  depth. 
Its  vertical  sides  rise  grey  and  dark  above  the  fall 
to  shelving  summits,  from  which  one  can  look  down 
into  the  boiling,  spray-filled  chasm,  enlivened  with 
rainbows,  and  glittering  like  a  shower  of  diamonds. 
From  a  shelf  protruding  over  the  stream,  500  feet 
below  the  top  of  the  canon,  and  180  above  the  verge 
of  the  cataract,  a  member  of  our  company,  lying 
prone  upon  the  rock,  let  down  a  cord,  with  a  stone 
attached,  into  the  gulf,  and  measured  its  profoundest 
depths.  The  life  and  sound  of  the  cataract,  with 
its  sparkling  spray  and  fleecy  foam,  contrasts 
strangely  with  the  sombre  stillness  of  the  caiion  a 
mile  below.  There  all  was  darkness,  gloom,  and 
shadow ;  here  all  was  vivacity,  gayety,  and  delight. 
One   was  the   most  unsocial,  the  other  the  most 


GRAND    CANON   AND    THE   FALLS,  85 

social  scene  in  nature.  We  could  talk,  and  sing, 
and  whoop,  waking  the  echoes  with  oar  mirth  and 
laughter  in  presence  of  the  falls,  but  we  could  not 
thus  profane  the  silence  of  the  canon.  Seen  through 
the  canon  below  the  falls,  the  river  for  a  mile  or 
more  is  broken  by  rapids  and  cascades  of  great 
variety  and  beauty. 

"  Between  the  Lower  and  Upper  Falls  the  canon  is 
two  hundred  to  nearly  four  hundred  feet  deep.  The 
river  runs  over  a  level  bed  of  rock,  and  is  undis- 
turbed by  rapids  until  near  the  verge  of  the  lower 
fall.  The  upper  fall  is  entirely  unhke  the  other,  but 
in  its  peculiar  character  equally  interesting.  For 
some  distance  above  it  the  river  breaks  into  fright- 
ful rapids.  The  stream  is  narrowed  between  the 
rocks  as  it  approaches  the  brink,  and  bounds  with 
impatient  struggles  for  release,  leaping  through  the 
stony  jaws,  in  a  sheet  of  snow-white  foam,  over  a 
precipice  nearly  perpendicular,  115  feet  high.*  Mid- 
way in  its  descent  the  entire  volume  of  water  is 
carried,  by  the  sloping  surface  of  an  intervening 
ledge,  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  beyond  the  vertical  base 
of  the  precipice,  gaining  therefrom  a  novel  and  in- 
teresting feature.     The  churning  of  the  water  upon 

*  Mr.  Langford  appears  to  have  uuderestimated  this  fall.  The 
report  Df  the  U.  S.  Geological  Sm-vey  gives  the  height  as  140 
feet. 


86  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONE 

the  rocks  reduces  it  to  a  mass  of  foam  and  spray, 
through  which  all  the  colors  of  the  solar  spectrum 
are  reproduced  in  astonishing  profusion.  What 
this  cataract  lacks  in  sublimity  is  more  than  com- 
pensated by  picturesqueness.  The  rocks  which 
overshadow  it  do  not  veil  it  from  the  open  light. 
It  is  up  amid  the  pine  foliage  which  crowns  the 
adjacent  hills,  the  grand  feature  of  a  landscape  un- 
rivalled for  beauties  of  vegetation  as  well  as  of  rock 
and  glen.  The  two  confronting  rocks,  overhanging 
the  verge  at  the  height  of  a  hundred  feet  or  more, 
could  be  readily  united  by  a  bridge,  from  which 
some  of  the  grandest  views  of  natural  scenery  in 
the  world  could  be  obtained — while  just  in  front  o^ 
and  within  reaching  distance  of  the  arrowy  water, 
from  a  table  one-third  of  the  way  below  the  brink 
of  the  fall,  all  its  nearest  beauties  and  terrors  may 
be  caught  at  a  glance. 

"  We  rambled  around  the  falls  and  canon  two 
days,  and  left  them  with  the  unpleasant  conviction 
that  the  greatest  wonder  of  our  journey  had  beec 
seen." 

A  few  scattered  sentences,  culled  from  Dr.  Hay- 
den's  calmly  scientific  account  of  the  falls,  will 
suffice  to  show  that  Mr.  Langford's  description 
"  o'ersteps  not  the  modesty  of  nature." 

"Above  the  Upper  Falls  the  Yellowstone  flows 


UPPER  FALLS  OF  THE  YELLOWSTONE, 


GRkND    CANON  AND    THE  FALLb.  87 

through  a  grassy,  meadow-like  valley,  with  a  calra, 
steady  current,  giving  no  warning,  until  very  near 
the  falls,  that  it  is  about  to  rush  over  a  precipice  140 
feet,  and  then,  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  again  to 
leap  down  a  distance  of  350  feet. 

"  From  any  point  of  view  the  Upper  Falls  are  ex- 
tremely picturesque  and  striking.  The  entire  volume 
of  water  seems  to  be,  as  it  were,  hurled  off  of  the 
precipice  with  the  force  which  it  has  accumulated 
in  the  rapids  above,  so  that  the  mass  is  detached 
into  the  most  beautiful  snow-white,  bead-like  drops, 
and  as  it  strikes  the  rocky  basin  below,  it  shoots 
through  the  water  with  a  sort  of  ricochet  for  the 
distance  of  200  feet.  The  whole  presents  in  the 
distance  the  appearance  of  a  mass  of  snow-white 
foam.  On  the  sides  of  the  basalt  walls  there  is  a 
thick  growth  of  vegetation,  nourished  by  the  spray 
above,  w^hich  extends  up  as  far  as  the  moisture  can 

reach After  the  waters  roll  over  the  upper 

descent,  they  flow  with  great  rapidity  over  the  ap- 
parently flat  rocky  bottom,  which  spreads  out  to 
nearly  double  its  width  above  the  faUs,  and  con- 
tinues thus  until  near  the  Lower  Falls,  when  the 
channel  again  contracts,  and  the  waters  seem,  as  it 
were,  to  gather  themselves  into  one  compact  mas.s 
and  plunge  over  the  descent  of  350  feet  in  detached 
drops  of  foam  as  white  as  snow ;  some  of  the  large 


88  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONE. 

globules  of  water  shoot  down  like  the  contents  of  an 

exploded   rocket The  entire    mass    of    the 

water  falls  into  a  circular  basin,  which  has  been 
worn  into  the  hard  rock,  so  that  the  rebound  is  one 

of  the  magnificent  features  of  the  scene It 

is  a  sight  far  more  beautiful,  though  not  so  grand 
or  impressive  as  that  of  Niagara  Falls.  A  heavy 
mist  always  rises  from  the  water  at  the  foot  of  the 
falls,  so  dense  that  one  cannot  approach  within  200 
or  300  feet,  and  even  then  the  clothes  will  be 
drenched  in  a  few  moments.  Upon  the  yellow, 
nearly  vertical  wall  of  the  west  side,  the  mist  mostly 
falls,  and  for  300  feet  from  the  bottom  the  wall  is 
covered  with  a  thick  matting  of  mosses,  sedges, 
grasses,  and  other  vegetation  of  the  most  vivid 
green,  which  have  sent  their  small  roots  into  the 
softened  rocks,  and  are  nourished  by  the  ever- 
ascending  spray.  At  the  base  and  quite  high  up  on 
the  sides  of  the  canon,  are  great  quantities  of  talus, 
and  through  the  fragments  of  rocks  and  decomposed 
spring  deposits  may  be  seen  the  horizontal  strata  of 
breccia." 

On  his  return  down  the  opposite  or  eastern  side 
of  the  river,  Colonel  Barlow  descended  to  the  foot 
of  the  Lower  Fall  for  the  purpose  of  exploring  the 
cahon.  He  says  :  "  I  expected  this  to  be  an  under- 
taking of  great  difficulty  and  attended  with  some 


THE  GRAND  CANON  AND  THE  FALLS.         89 

danger,  bui  entering  a  sharp  and  narrow  gorge  or 
fissure  in  the  side  of  the  caSon,  immediately  below 
the  great  fall,  I  found  the  descent  much  easier  than 
was  anticipated.  It  proved  to  be  very  steep,  but 
the  rock  being  solid,  with  projecting  angles,  there 
was  Httle  danger  to  a  careful  climber.  A  slope  of 
loose  and  finely  broken  rock,  a  hundred  feet  in 
height,  moist  from  the  falling  spray,  terminated  the 
descent.  Shding  to  the  bottom  of  this  slope,  I 
stood  at  the  foot  of  the  great  fall,  350  feet  below  its 
crest,  the  walls  of  the  canon  rising  700  feet.  My 
first  impression  on  beholding  this  fall  from  below 
was  one  of  disaj^pointment ;  it  did  not  appear  as 
high  as  I  expected.  The  fall,  however,  was  grand, 
and  presented  a  symmetrical  and  unbroken  sheet  of 
white  foam,  set  in  dark  masses  of  rock,  while  rain- 
bows were  formed  in  the  spray  from  almost  every 
point  of  view.  The  steep  rocks  near  the  falls,  con- 
stantly wet  with  rising  mist,'  were  covered  with  vege- 
tation of  an  intensely  green  color.  The  river 
below  runs  with  the  velocity  of  a  torrent,  rushing 
down  declivities,  spinning  round  sharp  angles,  and 
dashing  itseK  into  spray  at  every  turn.  I  found  it 
impossible  to  follow  the  bed  of  the  stream,  the 
steep  and  slippery  side  affording  no  footing  what- 
ever, and  crumbhng  at  the  sHghtest  touch." 


CHAPTER    IX. 

JFROM  THE  FALLS  TO  THE  LAKE. 

HALF  a  mile  above  the  Upper  Fall  the  Yellow- 
stone gives  no  intimation  of  its  approaching 
career  of  wildness  and  grandeur.  It  rolls  peace- 
fully between  low  verdant  banks  and  over  pebbly 
reaches  or  spaces  of  quicksand,  with  beautiful 
curves  and  a  majestic  motion.  Its  waters  are  clear 
and  cold,  and  of  the  emerald  hue  characteristic  of 
Niagara.  Great  numbers  of  small  springs,  fed  by 
the  slowly  melting  snows  of  the  mountains,  flow 
from  the  densely  wooded  foot-hills,  irrigating  the 
"bottoms,"  and  sustaining  a  growth  of  grass  and 
flowers  that  clothes  the  low-lands  with  freshness 
and  vividness  of  color.  Everything  terrific,  diabolic, 
volcanic,  would  seem  to  have  been  left  behind.  The 
first  hint  to  the  contrary  is  given  by  a  pn^tty  little 
rivulet,  a  yard  wide  and  a  few  inches  deep,  clear  as 
crystal,  winding  along  through  the  rank  grass  to  join 
the  Yellowstone.     It  looks  like   any  clear- watered 


FBOM    THE  FALLS    TO    THE   LAKE.  91 

mountain  stream  ;  but  a  single  taste  shows  that  it 
has  a  different  origin.  It  is  strongly  charged  with 
alum — hence  its  name,  Alum  Creek — and  its  source 
is  in  a  remarkable  group  of  sulphur  and  alum 
springs  two  or  three  miles  further  on, — that  is,  about 
ten  miles  above  the  falls. 

All  about  these  springs  are  evidences  of  volcanic 
action  in  great  variety  and  profusion.  Mr.  Lang- 
ford  says : 

"  The  region  was  filled  with  boihng  springs  and 
craters.  Two  hills,  each  300  feet  high,  and  from  a 
quarter  to  half  a  mile  across,  had  been  formed 
wholly  of  the  sinter  thrown  from  adjacent  springs — 
lava,  sulphur,  and  reddish-brown  clay.  Hot  streams 
of  vapor  were  pouring  from  crevices  scattered  over 
them.  Their  surfaces  answered  in  hollow  intona- 
tions to  every  footstep,  and  in  several  places  yielded 
to  the  weight  of  our  horses.  Steaming  vapor  rushed 
hissingly  from  the  fractures,  and  all  around  the 
natural  vents  large  quantities  of  sulphur  in  crystal- 
lized form,  perfectly  pure,  had  been  deposited.  This 
could  be  readily  gathered  with  pick  and  shovel.  A 
great  many  exhausted  craters  dotted  the  hill-side. 
One  near  the  summit,  still  alive,  changed  its  hues 
b"ke  steel  under  the  process  of  tempering,  to  every 
kiss  of  the  passing  breeze.  The  hottest  vapors  were 
active  beneath  the   incrusted   surface   everywhere. 


92  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONK 

A  thick  leatheru  glove  was  no  protection  to  the 
hand  exposed  to  them.  Around  these  immense 
thermal  deposits,  the  country,  for  a  great  distance 
in  all  directions,  is  filled  with  boiling  springs,  aU 
exliibiting  separate  characteristics. 

"  The  most  conspicuous  of  the  cluster  is  a  sul- 
phur spring  twelve  by  twenty  feet  in  diameter,  en- 
circled by  a  beautifully  scolloped  sedimentary  border, 
in  which  the  water  is  thrown  to  a  height  of  from 
three  to  seven  feet.  The  regular  formation  of  this 
border,  and  the  perfect  shading  of  the  scollops 
forming  it,  are  among  the  most  delicate  and  wonder- 
ful freaks  of  nature's  handiwork.  They  look  like  an 
elaborate  work  of  art.  This  spring  is  located  at  the 
western  base  of  Crater  Hill,  above  described,  and 
the  gentle  slope  around  it  for  a  distance  of  300 
feet  is  covered  to  considerable  depth  with  a  mix- 
ture of  sulphur  and  brown  lava.  The  moistened 
bed  of  a  small  channel,  leading  from  the  spring 
down  the  slope,  indicated  that  it  had  recently  over- 
flowed. 

"  A  few  rods  north  of  this  spring,  at  the  base  of 
the  hill,  is  a  cavern  whose  mouth  is  about  seven  feet 
in  diameter,  from  which  a  dense  jet  of  sulphurous 
vapor  explodes  with  a  regular  report  like  a  high- 
pressure  engine.  A  little  farther  along  we  came 
upon  another  boiling  spring,  seventy  feet  long  by 


FROM    THE   FALLS    TO    TEE   LAKE.  93 

forty  wide,  the  water  of  which  is  dark  and  muddy 
and  in  unceasing  agitation. 

"  About  a  hundred  yards  distant  we  discovered  a 
boiling  alum  spring,  surrounded  with  beautiful  crys- 
tals, from  the  border  of  which  we  gathered  a  quan- 
tity of  alum,  nearly  pure,  but  slightly  impregnated 
with  iron.  The  violent  ebullition  of  the  water  had 
undermined  the  surrounding  surface  in  many  places, 
and  for  the  distance  of  several  feet  from  the  margin 
had  so  thoroughly  saturated  the  incrustation  with 
its  liquid  contents,  that  it  was  unsafe  to  approach 
the  edge.  As  one  of  our  company  was  unconcern- 
edly passing  near  the  brink,  the  incrustation  sud- 
denly sloughed  off  beneath  his  feet.  A  shout  of 
alarm  from  his  comrades  aroused  him  to  a  sense  of 
his  peril,  and  he  only  avoided  being  plunged  into 
the  boiling  mixture  by  falhng  suddenly  backward 
at  full  length  upon  the  firm  portion  of  the  crust,  and 
rolling  over  to  a  place  of  safety.  His  escape  from 
a  horrible  death  was  most  marvellous,  and  in  an- 
other instant  he  would  have  been  beyond  all  human 
aid.  Our  efforts  to  sound  the  depths  of  this  spring 
with  a  pole  thirty-five  feet  in  length  were  fruit- 
less." 

The  report  of  the  Geological  Expedition  describes 
these  curious  springs  somewhat  moie  minutely.  The 
first  that  attracted  Dr.  Hay  den's  attention  was  the 


94  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONE 

powerful  steam-vent  above  mentioned,  which  he 
calls  the  Locomotive  Jet.  "  The  aperture  is  about 
six  inches  in  diameter,  a  sort  of  raised  chimney,  and 
all  around  are  numerous  small  continuous  steam - 
vents,  all  of  which  are  elegantly  lined  with  the 
bright-yellow  sulphur.  The  entire  surface  is  covered 
with  the  white  silicious  crust,  which  gives  forth  a 
hollow  sound  beneath  the  tread ;  and  we  took  plea- 
sure in  breaking  it  up  in  the  vicinity  of  the  vents, 
and  exposing  the  wonderful  beauty  *of  the  sulphur- 
coating  on  the  inner  sides.  This  crust  is  ever  hot, 
and  yet  so  firm  that  we  could  walk  over  it  anywhere. 
On  the  south  side  of  these  hills,  close  to  the  foot,  is 
a  magnificent  sulphur-spring.  The  deposits  around 
it  are  silica ;  but  some  places  are  white,  and  enam- 
elled like  the  finest  porcelain.  The  thin  edges  of 
the  nearly  circular  rim  extend  over  the  waters  of 
the  basin  several  feet,  yet  the  open  portion  is 
fifteen  feet  in  diameter.  The  water  is  in  a  constant 
state  of  agitation.  The  steam  that  issues  from 
this  spring  is  so  strong  and  hot  that  it  was  only 
on  the  windward  side  that  I  could  approach  it  and 
ascertain  its  temperature,  197°.  The  agitation 
seemed  to  affect  the  entire  mass,  carrying  it  up  im- 
pulsively to  the  height  of  four  feet.  It  may  be  com- 
pared to  a  huge  caldron  of  perfectly  clear  watei 
somewhat   superheated.     But  it  is  the  decorations 


FROM    THE   FALLS    TO    THE  LAKE.  95 

about  this  spring  that  lent  the  charm,  after  our  as- 
tonishment at  the  seething  mass  before  us — the  most 
beautiful  scolloping  around  the  rim,  and  the  inner 
and  outer  surface  covered  with  a  sort  of  pearl-like 
bead  work.  The  base  is  the  pure  white  silica,  while 
the  sulphur  gave  every  possible  shade,  from  yellow 
to  the  most  delicate  cream.  No  kind  of  embroider- 
ing that  human  art  can  conceive  or  fashion  could 
equal  this  specimen  of  the  cunning  skill  of  nature 
On  the  northeast  side  of  the  hills,  extending  from 
their  summits,  are  large  numbers  of  the  steam-vents, 
with  the  sulphur  linings  and  deposits  of  the  sulphur 
over  the  surface.  These  hills  are  entirely  due  to 
the  old  hot  springs,  and  are  from  50  to  150  feet  in 
height.  The  rock  is  mostly  compact  silica,  but  there 
is  almost  every  degree  of  purity,  from  a  kind  of  ba- 
salt to  the  snow-white  silica.  Some  of  it  is  a  real 
conglomerate,  with  a  fine  silicious  cement  inclosing 
pebbles  of  white  silica,  like  those  seen  around  the 
craters  of  some  geysers.  Although  at  the  present 
time  there  are  no  true  geysers  in  this  group,  the  evi- 
dence is  clear  that  these  were,  in  former  times,  very 
powerful  ones,  that  have  built  up  mountains  of  silica 
by  their  overflow.  The  steam-vents  on  the  side  and 
at  the  foot  of  these  hills  represent  the  dying  stages 
of  this  once  most  active  group.  Quito  a  dense 
growth  of  pines  now  covers  these  hills,  waich  rise 


00  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONK 

up  ill  the  midst  of  the  plains,  and  from  their  pocn 
liar  white  appearance  are  conspicuous  for  a  great 
distance.  At  one  point  there  is  a  steam-\ent  so  hot 
that  it  is  difficult  to  approach  it,  emitting  a  strong 
sulphurous  smell,  and  within  two  feet  of  it  there  is 
a  larger  spring,  boiling  like  a  caldron.  So  far  as  1 
can  determine,  there  is  no  underground  connection 
of  any  of  the  springs  with  each  other.  Sometimes 
the  rims  of  these  craters,  as  well  as  the  in:jei  sides 
jf  their  basins,  have  a  beautiful  papulose  surface, 
the  silica  just  covered  with  a  thin  veil  of  delicate 
cretimy  sulphur.  At  this  locality  are  some  very  re- 
markable turbid  and  mud  springs.  One  of  them 
has  a  basin  twenty  feet  in  diameter,  nearly  circular 
in  form,  and  the  contents  have  almos*  the  consist- 
ency of  thick  hasty-pudding.  Indeed,  there  is  no 
comparison  that  can  bring  before  the  mind  a  clearer 
picture  of  such  a  mud  volcano  than  a  huge  caldron 
of  thick  mush.  The  surface  is  covered  all  over  with 
puffs  of  mud,  which,  as  they  burst,  give  off  a  thud- 
like noise,  and  then  fine  mud-waves  recede  from  tht 
centre  of  the  puffs  in  the  most  perfect  rings  to  the 
side.  Although  there  are  hundreds  of  these  mud- 
pots,  yet  it  is  very  rare  that  the  mud  is  in  just  the 
condition  to  admit  of  these  peculiar  rings.  The 
thud  is,  of  course,  produced  by  the  escape  of  the 
sulphur c ted  hydrogen  gas  through  the  mud.     The 


FROM  THE  FALLS  TO  THE  LAKE.  97 

mud  is  so  fine  as  to  have  no  visible  or  sensible  grain, 
and  is  very  strongly  impregnated  with  alum.  Foi 
three  hundred  yards  in  length  and  twenty -five  yards 
in  width,  the  valley  of  this  Uttle  branch  of  Alum 
Creek  is  perforated  with  these  mud-vents  of  all  sizes, 
and  the  contents  are  of  all  degrees  of  consistency, 
from  merely  turbid  water  to  a  thick  mortar.  The 
entire  surface  is  perfectly  bare  of  vegetation,  and 
hot,  yielding  in  many  places  to  a  sUght  pressure.  I 
attempted  to  walk  about  among  these  simmering 
vents,  and  broke  through  to  my  knees,  covering  my- 
self with  the  hot  mud,  to  my  great  pain  and  subse- 
quent inconvenience.  One  of  the  largest  of  the  tur- 
bid springs  has  a  basin  with  a  nearly  circular  rim 
twenty  feet  from  the  margin  to  the  water,  and  forty 
feet  in  diameter.  There  are  two  or  three  centres  of 
ebullition ;  temperature,  188°." 

A  couple  of  miles  above  these  springs,  near  the 
banks  of  the  Yellowstone,  is  a  not  less  remarkable 
group  of  sulphur  and  mud  springs.  All  the  inter- 
mediate space  abounds  in  the  remains  of  similar 
springs,  now  quiescent  or  dead,  yet  giving  evidence 
of  former  power  and  activity  beyond  that  dis- 
played by  any  now  existing.  "  There  w^ere  giants 
in  those  days !"  Mr.  Langford  describes  a  group 
of  these  "  unsightly  caldrons,"  varying  in  size  from 
*"WO  to  ten  feet  in  diameter  ;    their  surfaces  from 


98  WONDERS    OF  THE   YELLOWSTONK 

three  to  eight  feet  below  the  level  of  the  plain  : 
^*  The  contents  of  the  most  of  them  were  of  the 
consistency  of  thick  paint,  w^hich  they  greatly  re- 
sembled, some  being  yellow,  others  pink,  and 
others  dark  brown.  This  semi-fluid  was  boiling  at 
a  fearful  rate,  much  after  the  fashion  of  a  hasty- 
pudding  in  the  last  stages  of  completion.  The 
bubbles,  often  two  feet  in  height,  would  explode 
with  a  puff,  emitting  at  each  time  a  villainous 
smell  of  sulphuretted  vapor.  Springs  six  and 
eight  feet  in  diameter,  but  four  feet  asunder,  pre- 
sented distinct  phenomenal  characteristics.  There 
was  no  connection  between  them,  above  or  below. 
The  sediment  varied  in  color,  and  not  unfrequently 
there  would  be  an  inequality  of  five  feet  in  their 
surfaces.  Each,  seemingly,  was  supplied  with  a 
separate  force.  They  were  embraced  within  a  ra- 
dius of  1,200  feet,  which  was  covered  with  a  strong 
incrustation,  the  various  vents  in  which  emitted 
streams  of  heated  vapor.  Our  silver  watches,  and 
other  metallic  articles,  assumed  a  dark  leaden  hue. 
The  atmosphere  was  filled  with  sulphurous  gases, 
and  the  river  opposite  our  camp  was  impregnated 
with  the  mineral  bases  of  adjacent  springs.  At 
the  base  of  adjacent  foot-hills  we  found  three 
springs  of  boiling  mud,  the  largest  of  which,  forty 
feet  in  diameter,  encircled  by   an  elevated  rim   of 


hHOM  THE  FALLS  TO  THE  LAKlL  99 

solid  tufa,  resembles  an  immense  caldron.  The 
seething,  bubbling  contents,  covered  with  steam, 
are  five  feet  below  the  rim.  The  disgusting  ap- 
pearance of  this  spring  is  scarcely  atoned  for  by 
the  wonder  with  which  it  fills  the  beholder.  The 
other  two  springs,  much  smaller,  but  presenting 
the  same  general  features,  are  located  near  a  large 
sulphur  spring  of  milder  temperature,  but  too  hot 
for  bathing.  On  the  brow  of  an  adjacent  hillock, 
amid  the  green  pines,  heated  vapor  issues  in 
scorching  jets  from  several  craters  and  fissures. 
Passing  over  the  hill,  we  struck  a  small  stream  of 
perfectly  transparent  water  flowing  from  a  cavern, 
the  roof  of  which  tapers  back  to  the  water,  which 
is  boiling  furiously,  at  a  distance  of  twenty  feet 
from  the  mouth,  and  is  ejected  through  it  in  uni- 
form jets  of  great  force.  The  sides  and  entrance 
of  the  cavern  are  covered  with  soft,  green  sedi- 
ment, which  renders  the  rock  on  which  it  is  depos- 
ited as  soft  and  pliable  as  putty. 

"  About  two  hundred  yards  from  this  cave  is  a 
most  singular  phenomenon,  which  we  called  the 
Muddy  Geyser.  It  presents  a  funnel-shaped  ori- 
fice, in  the  midst  of  a  basin  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  in  diameter,  with  sloping  sides  of  clay  and 
sand.  The  crater  or  orifice,  at  the  surface,  is  thir- 
ty by  fifty  feet  in  diameter.     It  tapers  quite  uni 


100  WONDERS    OF   THE  YELLOWSTONE. 

formly  to  the  depth  of  about  thirty  feet,  where  the 
water  may  be  seen,  when  the  geyser  is  in  repose, 
presenting  a  surface  of  six  or  seven  feet  in  breadth. 
The  flow  of  this  geyser  is  regular  every  six  hours. 
The   water   rises   gradually,   commencing   to   boil 
when  about  half  way  to  the  surface,  and   occasion- 
ally breaking  forth  in  great  violence.     When  the 
crater  is  filled,  it  is  expelled  from  it  in  a  splashing, 
scattered  mass,  ten  or  fifteen  feet  in  thickness,  to 
the  height  of  forty  feet.     The  water  is  of  a  dark 
lead  color,  and  deposits  the  substance  it  holds  in 
solution  in  the  form  of  miniature  stalagmites  upon 
the  sides  and  top  of  the  crater.     As  this  was  the 
first  object  which  approached  a  geyser,  we,  natur- 
ally enough,  regarded  it  with  intense  curiosity .... 
"  While  returning  by  a  new  route  to   our  camp, 
dull,  thundering  sounds,  which  General  Washburn 
likened  to  frequent  discharges  of  a  distant  mortar, 
broke  upon  our  ears.     We  followed  their  direction, 
and  found  them  to   proceed  from  a  mud  volcano, 
which  occupied  the  slope  of  a  small  hill,  embow- 
ered in  a  grove  of  pines.     Dense  volumes  of  steam 
shot  into  the  air  with  each  report,  through  a  crater 
thirty  feet  in  diameter.    The  reports,  though  irreg- 
ular, occurred  as  often  as  every  five  seconds,  and 
could  be  distinctly  heard  half  a  mile.     Each  alter- 
nate report  shook  the  ground  a  distance  of  two 


TIIK   MID   VOLCANO. 


FROM  TEE  FALLS  TO  TEE  LARK  IQl 

hundred  yards  or  more,  and  the  massive  jets  of  va- 
por which  accompanied  them  burst  forth  like  the 
smoke  of  burning  gunpowder.  It  was  impossible  to 
stand  on  the  edge  of  that  side  of  the  crater  opposite 
the  wind,  and  one  of  our  party,  Mr.  Hedges,  was 
rewarded  for  his  temerity  in  venturing  too  near  the 
rim,  by  being  thrown  by  the  force  of  the  volume  of 
steam  violently  down  the  outer  side  of  the  crater. 
From  hasty  views,  afforded  by  occasional  gusts  of 
wind,  we  could  see  at  a  depth  of  sixty  feet  the  re- 
gurgitating contents. 

"  This  volcano,  as  is  evident  from  the  freshness 
of  the  vegetation  and  the  particles  of  dried  clay 
adhering  to  the  topmost  branches  of  the  trees  sur- 
rounding it,  is  of  very  recent  formation.  Probably 
it  burst  forth  but  a  few  months  ago.  Its  first  ex- 
plosion must  have  been  terrible.  We  saw  limbs  of 
trees  125  feet  high  encased  in  clay,  and  found  its 
scattered  contents  two  hundred  feet  from  it." 

On  the  east  side  of  the  Yellowstone,  close  to  the 
margin  of  the  river,  are  a  few  turbid  springs,  and 
mud-springs  strongly  impregnated  with  alum.  The 
mud  is  yellow  and  contains  much  sulphur.  These, 
the  discoverers.  Dr.  Hayden  and  his  company, 
called  Mud-suli)bur  Springs.  The  main  basin  is 
15  by  30  feet,  and  has  three  centres  of  ebullition, 
showing  that  deep  in  the  earth  are  three  independ- 


102  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONE 

ent  orifices  for  the  emission  of  heated  waters.  Di 
Hayden's  description  of  the  roaring  spring  issuing 
from  a  cavern,  coincides  with  that  given  above. 
He  called  it  the  Grotto.  Around  all  these  springs 
he  observed  an  abundance  of  grasses,  rushes, 
mosses,  and  other  plants  growing  with  a  surprising 
luxuriance.  The  recent  mud-volcano  described  by 
Mr.  Langford  was  considered  by  Dr.  Hayden  as 
the  most  remarkable  mud- spring  thus  far  discov- 
ered in  the  West. 

"  It  does  not  boil  with  an  impulse  like  most  of 
the  mud-springs,"  he  says,  "  but  with  a  constant 
roar  which  shakes  the  ground  for  a  considerable 
distance,  and  may  be  heard  for  half  a  mile.  A 
dense  column  of  steam  is  ever  rising,  filling  the 
crater,  but  now  and  then  a  passing  breeze  will  re- 
move it  for  a  moment,  revealing  one  of  the  most 
terrific  sights  one  could  well  imagine.  The  con- 
tents are  composed  of  thin  mud  in  a  continual 
state  of  the  most  violent  agitation,  like  an  immense 
caldron  of  mush  submitted  to  a  constant,  uniform, 

but   most   intense   heat All   the    indications 

around  this  most  remarkable  caldron  show  that  it 
has  broken  out  at  a  recent  period  ;  that  the  caving 
in  of  the  sides  so  choked  up  the  orifice  that  it  re- 
lieved itself,  hurling  the  muddy  contents  over  the 
living  pines  in  the  vicinity." 


FROM  TEE  FALLS  TO  THE  LAKE.  103 

The  steam  rising  from  this  spring — the  Giant*a 
Caldron — can  be  seen  for  many  miles  in  every  di- 
rection. The  movements  of  Muddy  Geyser  were 
closely  watched  for  twenty-four  hours  by  Mr. 
Campbell  Carrington,  who  was  specially  detailed 
for  that  duty  by  Dr.  Hayden.  His  observations 
began  about  nine  o'clock  A.M.,  July  1st.  Then 
the  pool  was  calm.  Shortly  after,  he  heard  the 
loud,  hissing  noise  of  escaping  steam.  Hurrying 
to  the  geyser,  he  saw  a  wave  about  three  feet  in 
height  rise  and  die  away  to  the  left ;  three  similar 
waves  followed  in  quick  succession.  Their  dense 
columns  of  steam  burst  up  to  the  height  of  twenty 
feet,  with  a  dull,  heavy  explosion,  the  action  con- 
tinuing for  fifteen  minutes,  when  the  spring  ceased 
flowing  as  suddenly  as  it  had  begun.  The  average 
height  of  the  flowing  was  about  fifteen  feet,  though 
some  of  the  jets  reached  fully  thirty  feet.  Five 
minutes  after  the  eruption  the  pool  measured  twen- 
ty-five feet  in  circumference  and  three  in  depth, 
where  before  it  was  a  hundred  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence and  eleven  in  depth.  Ten  minutes  later  the 
mud  began  to  rise  slowly  in  the  pool.  This  con- 
tinued for  a  little  over  three  hours,  when  the  spring 
began  to  boil  near  the  centre.  The  ebullition  gra- 
dually increased  in  violence  for  twenty  minutes, 
then  it  suddenly  stopped,  and  the  eruption  began 


104  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLO}VSTONK 

as  at  first.  This  rising,  falling,  and  overllowing 
took  place  eight  times  in  twenty-four  hours.  The 
following  table  shows  the  time  of  the  observed 
flowings  and  their  length  : 

"  First  flowing,  9.20  A.M.  to  9.35  A.M.;  length,  15 
minutes. 

"  Second  flowing,  1.30  P.M.  to  1.50  P.M.;  length, 
20  minutes. 

"  Third  flowing,  5  P.M.  to  5.15  P.M.;  length,  15 
minutes. 

"  Fourth  flowing,  8.30  P.M.  to  8.50  P.M.;  length, 
20  minutes. 

"  Fifth  flowing,  12.30  P.M.  to  12.45  P.M.;  length, 
15  minutes. 

"  Sixth  flowing,  4  A.M.  to  4.15  A.M.;  length,  15 
minutes. 

"  Seventh  flowing,  7.30  A.M.  to  7.45  A.M.;  length, 
15  minutes. 

"Eighth  flowing,  11  A.M.  to  11.10  A.M.;  length, 
10  minutes. 

"  Total  length  of  time,  26  hours.  Aggregate 
lime  of  flowing,  three  hours  and  15  minutes.  Av- 
erage length  of  flowings,  15  minutes  and  37  and 
one  half  seconds." 


CHAPTEE  X. 

YELLOWSTONE     LAKE. 

SUCH  a  vision,"  exclaims  the  sober-minded  chief 
of  the  Geological  Survey,  "  is  worth  a  lifetime  ; 
and  only  one  of  such  marvellous  beauty  will  ever 
greet  human  eyes." 

"  Secluded  amid  the  loftiest  peaks  of  the  Kocky 
Mountains,"  writes  Mr.  Langford,  "  possessing 
strange  peculiarities  of  form  and  beauty,  this  watery 
solitude  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  natural  objects 
in  the  world.  Its  southern  shore,  indented  with 
long  narrow  inlets,  not  unhke  the  frequent  fiords  of 
Iceland,  bears  testimony  to  the  awful  upheaval  and 
tremendous  force  of  the  elements  which  resulted  in 
its  creation.  The  long  pine-crowned  promontories, 
stretching  into  it  from  the  base  of  the  hills,  lend 
new  and  charming  features  to  an  aquatic  scene  full 
of  novelty  and  splendor.  Islands  of  emerald  hue 
dot  its  surface,  and  a  margin  of  sparkling  sand  forms 
its  jewelled  setting.    The  winds,  compressed  in  their 


106  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONR 

passage  through  the  mouutam  gorges,  lash  it  into  a 
sea  as  terrible  as  the  fretted  oceau,  covering  it  with 
foam.  But  now  it  lay  before  us  calm  and  unruffled, 
save  by  the  gentle  wavelets  which  broke  in  murmurs 
along  the  shore.  Water,  one  of  the  grandest  ele- 
ments of  scenery,  never  seemed  so  beautiful  before. 
It  formed  a  fitting  chmax  to  all  the  wonders  we  had 
seen,  and  we  gazed  upon  it  for  hours,  entranced 
with  its  increasing  attractions." 

The  beautiful  sheet  of  water  so  enthusiastically 
yet  fittingly  described,  is  somewhat  more  than 
twenty  miles  long  and  fifteen  broad,  with  an  irregu- 
lar outline,  presenting  some  of  the  loveliest  shore- 
lines that  water  ever  assumed.  Its  form  has  been 
compared  to  that  of  an  outspread  hand,  the  north- 
ern portion  representing  the  palm,  the  southwestern 
a  swollen  thumb,  the  first  and  second  fingers  aborted, 
the  third  and  fourth  disproportionately  large.  A 
glance  at  the  map  will  show  that  a  juster  compari- 
son would  be  to  the  head  and  shoulders  of  some 
grotesque  animal  with  two  slender  ears  and  a  pair 
of  huge  knobby  horns — the  head  facing  the  north. 
The  greatest  stretch  of  water  extends  from  the  end 
of  the  heavy  lower  jaw  (the  outlet  of  the  Yellow- 
stone) to  the  top  of  the  upper  horn,  where  the 
Upper  YeUowstone  comes  in  ;  while  the  great  body 
of  the  water  lies  between  the  forehead  and  the  base 


O 


'^  1lkikM.ij ;,:  J  i^hmhiiM 


YELLOWSTONE  LAKK  107 

of  the  shoulder.  The  superficial  ".rea  of  the  lake 
is  about  three  hundred  square  miles ;  its  greatest 
depth  300  feet,  and  its  elevation  above  the  sea  7,427 
feet.  In  the  last  respect  it  has  but  one  rival,  Lake 
Titicaca  in  South  America. 

Lying  upon  the  very  crown  of  the  continent, 
Yellowstone  Lake  receives  no  tributaries  of  any 
considerable  size,  its  clear  cold  water  coming  solely 
from  the  snows  that  fall  on  the  lofty  mountain 
ranges  that  hem  it  in  on  every  side.  Li  the  early 
part  of  the  day,  when  the  air  is  still  and  the  bright 
sunshine  falls  on  its  unruffled  surface,  its  bright 
green  color,  shading  to  a  delicate  ultramarine,  com- 
mands the  admiration  of  every  beholder.  Later  in 
the  day,  when  the  mountain  winds  come  down  from 
their  icy  heights,  it  puts  on  an  aspect  more  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  fierce  wilderness  around  it.  Its 
shores  are  paved  with  volcanic  rocks,  sometimes  in 
masses,  sometimes  broken  and  worn  into  pebbles  of 
trachyte,  obsidian,  chalcedony,  cornehans,  agates, 
and  bits  of  agatized  wood ;  and  again,  ground  to 
obsidian-sand  and  sprinkled  with  crystals  of  Cali- 
fornia diamonds.  Here  and  there  hot-spring  de- 
posits show  wave-worn  bluffs  of  the  purest  white ; 
and  in  sheltered  bays,  clay-concretions  and  casts 
from  mud-puffs  strew  the  beach  with  curious  forms, 
that  exploring  trappers  mistook  for  the  drinking 


108  WONDERS    OF    TEE    YELLOWSTONE. 

cups,  stone  war-clubs,  and  broken  idols  of  some  ex- 
tinct race. 

Vegetation  is  abundant  in  the  lake  as  well  as 
around  it.  Several  species  of  plants  grow  far  out 
into  the  deep  waters,  living  thickly  on  rocks  twenty 
feet  below  the  surface.  After  a  severe  storm  their 
uptorn  stems  strew  the  beach  hke  kelp  on  the  sea- 
shore, and  the  water  is  discolored  with  vegetable 
matter  for  several  yards  from  the  shore.  The  water 
swarms  with  trout,  but  there  is  no  other  kind  of  fish, 
no  shells,  no  shell-fish, — nothing  but  trout.  Of 
these,  Mr.  Carrington,  the  naturalist  of  the  Geolo- 
gical Survey,  reports  the  following  interesting  obser- 
vations : 

"  Although  I  searched  with  diligence  and  care 
in  the  neighboring  streams  and  waters  around  the 
Yellowstone  Lake,  I  was  unable  to  find  any  other 
species  of  fish  except  the  salmon-trout ;  their  num- 
bers are  almost  inconceivable  ;  average  weight,  one 
pound  and  a  half ;  color,  a  light-grey  above,  passing 
into  a  light-yellow  below ;  the  fins,  all  except  the 
dorsal  and  caudal,  vary  from  a  bright-yellow  to  a 
brilliant  orange,  they  being  a  dark-grey  and  heavily 
spotted.  A  curious  fact,  and  one  well  worthy  ol 
the  closest  attention  of  an  aspiring  icthyologist,  is 
connected  with  these  fish,  namely,  that  among  their 
intestines,  and  even  interlaced  in  their  solid  flesh, 


*    YELLOWSTONE  LAKE  109 

are  found  intestinal  worms,  varying  in  size,  length, 
and   thickness,   the   largest   measuring    about    six 
inches  m  length.     On  cutting  one  of   these   trout 
open,  the  first  thing   that  attracts  your  attention  is 
small  oleaginous-looking  spots  chnging  to  the  intes- 
tines, which,  on  being  pressed  between  the  fingers, 
break  and  change  into  one  of  these  worms,  small,  it 
is  true,  but  nevertheless  perfect   in  its  formation. 
From  five  or  six  up  to  forty  or  fifty  will  be  found  in 
a  trout,  varying,  as  I  said  before,  in  size,  the  larger 
ones  being  found  in  the  solid  flesh,  through  which 
they  work  their  way,  and  which,  in  a  very  short 
while,  becomes  almost  putrid.     Their  number  can 
generally  be  estimated  from  the  appearance  of  the 
fish  itself ;  if  many,  the  trout  is  extremely  poor  in 
flesh,  the  color  changes  from  the  healthy  grey  to  a 
dull  pale,  it  swims  lazily  near  the  top  of  the  water, 
losing  all  its  shyness  and  fear  of  man ;  it  becomes 
almost  savage  in  its  appetite,  biting  voraciously  at 
anything  thrown  in  the  water,  and  its  flesh  becomes 
soft  and  yielding.     If,  on  the  other  hand,  there  are 
,  few  or  none,  the  flesh  of  the  fish  is  plump  and  sohd, 
and  he  is  quick  and  sprightly  in  all  his  motions.     I 
noticed  that  it  was  almost  invariably  the  case  when 
a  trout  had  several  scars  on  the  outside  of  his  body 
that  it  was  free  fi'om  these  worms,  and  I  theiefore 
took  it  for  granted  tliat  the  worms  finally  wicked 


110  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONE. 

their  way  through  the  body,  and  the  flesh,  on  heal* 
ing  up,  leaves  the  scars  on  the  outside  ;  the  trout,  in 
a  short  while,  becomes  plump  and  healthy  again. 
The  only  way  that  I  can  account  for  the  appearance 
of  these  worms  is,  that  the  fish  swallows  certain 
bugs  or  insects,  and  that  the  larvae  formed  from 
them  gradually  develop  into  the  full-grown  intesti- 
nal worm.  But  even  if  this  explanation  of  theii* 
appearance  was  received,  does  it  not  seem  a  little 
strange  that  while  all  the  fish  above  the  Upper  Falls 
are  more  or  less  afi'ected  by  them,  that  below  and 
even  between  the  Upper  and  Lower  Falls  such  a 
thing  as  wormy  trout  is  never  heard  of  V  Being 
unable,  with  my  limited  knowledge  of  icthyology,  to 
arrive  at  any  definite  conclusion  in  regard  to  their 
appearance,  I  submit  the  above  facts  to  those  who 
are  more  learned  than  myself  in  this  most  interest- 
ing branch  of  natural  history." 

Waterfowl  make  up  in  number  and  variety  for 
the  lack  of  life  within  the  lake.  The  surface  fairly 
swarms  with  them.  Lieutenant  Doane  enumerates 
swans,  pelicans,  gulls,  geese,  brants,  and  many  va- 
rieties of  ducks  and  dippers ;  also  herons  and 
sand-hill  cranes.  The  pelicans  are  very  plentiful, 
immense  fleets  of  them  sailing  in  company  with 
the  majestic  swan,  and  at  nightfall  the  low,  flat 
islands  in  the  lake  are  white  with  them.     The  gulls 


YELLOWSTONE  LAKE  111 

are  of  the  same  variety  as  those  of  San  Franciscc 
Harbor.  Eagles,  hawks,  ravens,  osprejs,  prairie 
chickens,  grouse,  mocking-birds  and  woodpeckers 
are  common  in  and  around  the  lake  basin.  Men- 
tion is  also  made  of  a  guide-bird,  whose  habits  cor- 
respond with  its  name.  It  resembles  the  black- 
bird, but  is  larger.     Lieutenant  Doane  says  : 

"  I  saw  but  one  of  these — the  day  I  went  to  the 
bottom  of  the  Grand  Canon  ;  it  hopped  and  flew 
along  from  rock  to  rock  ahead  of  as  during  the 
whole  trip  down,  waited  perched  upon  a  rock  while 
we  were  resting,  and  led  us  clear  to  the  summit 
again  in  the  same  manner,  making  innumerable 
sounds  and  gestures  constantly  to  attract  attention. 
Others  of  the  party  remarked  birds  of  the  same 
kind  and  acting  in  the  same  manner." 

Herds  of  deer,  elk,  and  mountain  sheep,  throng 
the  forests  and  mountain  meadows  about  the  lake. 
Buffalo  signs,  grizzly  bears  and  California  lions 
are  far  from  uncommon,  while  the  smaller  lakes 
and  creek-valleys  of  the  basin  are  fairly  alive  with 
otter,  beaver,  mink,  and  muskrats.  Lieutenant 
Doane  observed  several  unnamed  and  undescribed 
species  of  squirrels  and  weasels,  and  doubtless 
Vhere  are  many  other  new  varieties  of  animal  hfe 
^/ecuhar  to  this  Httle-known  region.  One  depart- 
ment of  natural  history,  however,  is  happily  uure- 


112  WONDERS    OF    TEE    YELLOWSTONE. 

presented  in  the  basin.  There  are  no  snakes, 
though  rattlesnakes  are  plentiful  down  the  Yellow- 
stone. 

There  are  but  two  considerable  islands  in  the 
lake — Stephenson's  and  Frank's — each  about  a  mile 
long,  narrow  and  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of 
pines.  Dot  Island,  near  Frank's,  a  small  lozenge- 
shaped  mud-bank,  not  over  a  third  cf  a  mile  long, 
and  half  a  dozen  of  smaller  size,  usually  near  the 
shore,  complete  the  list. 

The  first  explorers  constructed  a  rude  raft  for  the 
purpose  of  visiting  these  islands  and  exploring  the 
shore-line  of  the  lake,  but  it  was  speedily  wrecked 
by  the  choppy  waves  beat  up  by  the  sudden  gusts 
from  the  mountains.  The  Geological  Expedition 
took  the  precaution  to  carry  from  Fort  Ellis  the 
framework  of  a  little  craft,  twelve  feet  long,  three 
and  a  half  feet  wide,  and  twenty-two  inches  deep, 
which,  covered  with  well-tarred  canvas,  made  a 
very  serviceable  boat  for  fair-weather  navigation. 
"  Our  little  bark,  whose  keel  was  the  first  to  plow 
the  waters  of  the  most  beautiful  lake  on  the  conti- 
nent," says  Dr.  Hayden,  "  was  named  by  Mr.  Ste- 
phenson in  compliment  to  Miss  Anna  L.  Dawes, 
the  amiable  daughter  of  Hon.  H.L.Dawes.  My 
whole  party,"  he  adds,  "  were  glad  to  manifest,  by 
this   slight  tribute,  their  gratitude  to   the  distin- 


YELLOWSTONE  LAKR 


113 


guished  statesman,  whose  generous  sympathy  and 
aid  had  contributed  so  much  toward  securing  the 
appropriation  which  enabled  them  to  explore  this 
marvellous  region." 


THE  FLRST  BOAT  ON  YELLOWSTONE  LAKE. 

The  little  craft  rode   the  waves  well  and  per- 
formed excellent  service.     Its  first  voyage   was  t 
Stephenson's  Island,  named  after  the  first    assist- 
ant of  the  expedition, 


CHAPTEK  XL 

AROUND  YELLOWSTONE  LAKE. 

THE  Yellowstone  leaves  the  Lake  with  aa  easy 
flow  in  a  channel  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide, 
and  deep  enough  to  swim  a  horse.  A  mile  to  the 
eastward  of  the  outlet  is  the  mouth  of  Pelican  Creek, 
whose  swampy  valley  is  the  resort  of  myriads  of 
waterfowl.  On  the  northern  side,  three  or  four 
miles  from  the  lake,  Sulphur  Hills  stand  as  monu- 
ments of  a  once  magnificent  system  of  boiling 
springs. 

The  deposit  covers  the  side  of  the  mountain  to 
an  elevation  of  600  feet  above  the  lake  shore.  The 
huge  white  mass  of  silica,  covering  an  area  half  a 
mile  square,  can  be  seen  from  any  position  on  the 
lake  shore,  whence  it  appears  like  an  immense  bank 
of  snow.  In  the  valley  near  Pelican  Creek,  a  few 
springs  issue  from  beneath  the  crust,  distributing 
their  waters  over  the  bottom  and  depositing  oxide 


AROUND    YELLOWSTONE  LAKE  US 

of  iron,  sulphur,  and  silica  in  the  most  beautiful 
blending  of  gay  colors.  Although  the  waters  of  the 
springs  are  160  in  temperature,  the  channels  are 
lined  with  a  thick  growth  of  mosses  and  other 
plants,  and  in  the  water  is  an  abundance  of  vividly 
green  vegetation.  The  mass  of  hot- spring  material 
built  up  here  cannot  be  less  than  400  feet  in  thick- 
ness. A  large  portion  of  it  is  pudding-stone  or 
conglomerate.  Some  of  the  masses  inclosed  in  the 
fine  white  silicious  cement  are  themselves  globes  oi 
pure  white  silica,  eight  inches  in  diameter.  It  is 
plain,  from  the  evidence  still  remaining,  that  this 
old  ruin  has  been  the  theatre  of  tremendous  geyser 
action  at  some  period  not  very  remote,  and  that  the 
steam-vents,  which  are  very  numerous,  represent 
only  the  dying  stages.  These  vents  or  chimneys  are 
richly  adorned  with  brilliant  yellow  sulphur,  some- 
times as  a  hard  amorphous  coating,  and  sometimes 
in  delicate  crystals  that  vanish  like  frost-work  at  the 
touch.  It  seems  that  it  is  only  during  the  last 
stages  of  these  springs  that  they  adorn  themselves 
with  these  brilliant  and  vivid  colors. 

Hot  springs  are  scattered  along  the  valley  of  the 
creek  for  several  miles,  some  of  them  of  consider- 
able size  and  beauty.  The  average  width  of  the 
valley  is  about  two  miles  ;  the  heat  from  the  springs 
and  the  extremely  fertile  soil  combming  to  fill  tb^ 


116  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONK 

valley  with  abundant  vegetation.  At  the  north- 
eastern corner  of  the  lake,  five  or  six  miles  from  the 
outlet,  is  a  long,  low  spit  of  land  built  out  into  the 
lake  by  ancient  geyser  action.  A  few  roaring  steam- 
vents,  givmg  name  to  the  point,  are  all  that  remain 
of  the  violent  action  that  once  characterized  the 
place.  The  hot  spring  area  is  four  or  five  miles 
long  by  two  wide  ;  the  ground  in  many  places  being 
perforated  like  a  cullender  with  simmering  vents. 
A  mile  or  so  from  the  lake  is  a  large  pond  where 
there  is  another  extensive  group  of  springs,  deposit- 
ing sulphur,  alum,  common  salt,  and  staining  the 
ground  with  oxide  of  iron. 

South  of  Steam  Point  is  a  small  bay  bounded  by 
a  deposit  of  yellow  clay,  full  of  the  remarkable  con- 
cretions aheady  referred  to.  Further  up  the  east- 
ern shore  are  pebbly  beaches  strewn  with  agates 
cornelians,  and  chips  of  chalcedony.  Beyond,  the 
narrow  lake-shore  is  quite  impassable.  The  adja- 
cent lowlands,  and  the  higher  levels  and  hill- slopes 
further  back,  are  almost  as  difiicult  of  penetration, 
owing  to  the  dense  growth  of  lofty  pines  and  the  in- 
terminable fire-slashes  that  cover  large  areas.  These 
fire-slashes  are  due  to  autumnal  fires  which  sweep 
through  the  forests,  burning  the  vegetable  mould, 
so  that  the  trees  are  left  without  support,  and  the 
fii'st  wind  lays  them  down  in  the  wildest  confusion. 


AROVND    YELLOWSTONE   LAKE.  117 

Througli  these  networks  of  fallen  timber  it  is  with 
the  utmost  difficulty  that  a  passage  can  be  forced. 
All  the  explorers  speak  of  the  exasperating  nature 
of  their  tribulations  in  these  wildernesses. 

Mr.  Langford  treats  it  with   characteristic  good 

humor. 

"  Ascending  the  plateau  from  the  beach,"  he  says, 
"  we  became  at  once  involved  in  all  the  intricacies 
of  a  primeval  wilderness  of  pines.  Difficulties  in- 
creased with  our  progress  through  it,  severely  try- 
ing the  amiabihty  of  every  member  of  the  company. 
Our  pack-horses  would  frequently  get  wedged  be- 
tween the  trees  or  caught  in  the  traps  of  a  network 
of  fallen  trunks,  from  which  labor,  patience,  and  in- 
genuity were  severely  taxed  to  extricate  them.  The 
ludicrous  sometimes  came  to  our  relief,  proving  that 
there  was  nothing  so  effectual  in  allaying  excitement 
as  hearty  laughter.  We  had  a  remarkable  pony  Id 
our  pack-train,  w^hich,  from  the  moment  we  entered 
the  forest,  by  his  numerous  acrobatic  performances 
and  mishaps  furnished  amusement  for  the  company. 
One  part  of  the  process  of  travel  through  this 
forest  could  only  be  accomplished  by  leaping  over 
the  fahen  trunks,  an  exploit  which,  with  all  the  spirit 
aeedful  for  the  purpose,  our  httle  broncho  lacked 
the  power  always  to  perform.  As  a  consequence, 
lie  was  frequently  found  with  the  feat  half  accom- 


118  WONDERS  OF  THE  YELLOWS! ONE. 

plislied,  resting  upon  the  midriff,  his  fore  and  hind 
feet  suspended  over  the  opposite  sides  of  some  huge 
log.  His  ambition  to  excel  was  only  equalled  by 
the  patience  he  exhibited  in  difficulty.  On  one  oc- 
casion, while  clambering  a  steep  rocky  ascent,  his 
head  overtopping  his  haunches,  he  literally  per- 
formed three  of  the  most  wonderful  backward  head- 
springs ever  recorded  in  equine  history.  A  con- 
tinued experience  of  this  kind,  after  three  weeks' 
toilsome  travel,  found  him  as  sound  as  on  the  day 
of  its  commencement,  and  we  dubbed  him  the 
'  Little  Invulnerable.'  " 

In  another  place  Mr.  Langford  writes : 
"  Our  journey  of  five  miles,  the  next  day,  was  ac- 
complished with  great  difficulty  and  annoyance.  Al- 
most the  entire  distance  was  through  a  forest  piled 
full  of  fallen  trunks.  Travelling  was  but  anothei 
name  for  scrambling ;  and  as  man  is  at  times  the 
least  amiable  of  animals,  our  tempers  frequently 
displayed  alarming  activity,  not  only  towards  the 
patient  creatures  laden  with  our  stores,  but  towards 
each  other.  Once,  while  involved  in  the  reticulated 
meshes  of  a  vast  net  of  branches  and  tree-tops, 
each  man,  with  varied  expletive  emphasis,  clamor- 
ously insisting  upon  a  particular  mode  of  extrication, 
a  member  of  the  party,  who  was  always  jolly,  re- 
stored us  to  instant  good-humor  by  repeating,  in 


AROUND    YELLOWSTONE  LAKR  119 

theatrical  tone  and  manner,  those  beautiful  lines 
[rom  Childe  Harold  : — 

«*  There  is  a  pleasure  in  the  pathless  woods, 
There  is  a  rapture  on  the  lonely  shore." 

Our  '  Little  Invulnerable,'  too,  was  the  unconscious 
cause  of  mixny  bursts  of  laughter,  which,  hke  the 
plaudits  of  an  appreciative  audience,  came  in  at  the 
right  time." 

The  eastern  rim  of  the  Yellowstone  Basin  is 
formed  by  one  of  the  grandest  volcanic  ranges  in 
the  world,  the  general  level  of  their  summits  beuag 
about  10,000  feet  above  the  sea,  while  numerous 
peaks  thrust  their  rugged  crests  a  thousand  feet 
higher  into  the  sky.  Mr.  Langford  and  Lieutenant 
Doane  were  the  first  to  penetrate  this  range,  cHmb- 
ing  with  great  labor  one  of  the  highest  of  the  groups 
of  lofty   peaks   near   the   southeast   corner  of   the 

Lake. 

"  The  grandeur  and  vast  extent  of  the  view  fi'om 
this  elevation,"  writes  Mr.  Langford,  "  beggar  de- 
scription. The  lake  and  valley  surrounding  it  lay 
seemingly  at  our  feet  within  jumping  distance.  Be- 
yond them  we  saw  with  great  distinctness  the  jets 
of  the  mud  volcano  and  geyser.  But  beyond  all 
these,  stretching  away  into  a  horizon  of  cloud-de- 
^ed  mountains,  was  the  enthe  Wmd  Kiver  range, 


120  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONE. 

revealJDg  in  the  sunlight  the  dark  recesses,  gloomj 
canons,  stupendous  precipices,  and  glancing  pinna- 
cles, which  eV'Brywhere  dotted  its  jagged  slopes 
Lofty  peaks  shot  up  in  gigantic  spires  from  the 
main  body  of  the  range,  glittering  in  the  sunbeams 
like  solid  crystal.  The  mountain  on  which  we  stood 
was  the  most  westerly  peak  of  a  range  which,  in 
long-extended  volume,  swept  to  the  southeastern 
horizon,  exhibiting  a  continuous  elevation  more  than 
thirty  miles  in  width ;  its  central  line  broken  into 
countless  points,  knobs,  glens,  and  defiles,  all  on  the 
most  colossal  scale  of  grandeur  and  magnificence. 
Outside  of  these,  on  either  border,  along  the  entire 
range,  lofty  peaks  rose  at  intervals,  seemingly  vying 
with  each  other  in  the  varied  splendors  they  pre- 
sented to  the  beholder.  The  scene  was  full  of  ma- 
jesty. The  valley  at  the  base  of  this  range  was 
dotted  with  small  lakes  and  cloven  centrally  by  the 
river,  which,  in  the  far  distance,  we  could  see  emerg- 
ing from  a  canon  of  immense  dimensions,  within  the 
shade  of  which  two  enormous  jets  of  steam  shot 
to  an  incredible  height  into  the  atmosphere." 

Between  the  lake  and  this  group  of  mountains — 
the  three  highest  of  which  bear  the  names  of  Lang- 
ford,  Doane,  and  Stephenson — is  Brimstone  Basin. 
For  several  miles  the  ground  is  impregnated  witli 
sulphur,  and  the  air  is  tainted  with  sulphurous  ex 


ABOUND    YELLOWSTONE   LAKK  121 

halations.  Streams  of  warm  sulphur-water  course 
the  hillsides  and  unite  to  form  a  considerable  rivulet 
called  Alum  Creek,  whose  channel  is  coated  with  a 
creamy- white  mixture  of  silica  and  sulphur.  Old 
pine  logs,  once  lofty  trees,  lie  prostrate  in  every  di- 
rection over  the  basin,  which  covers  an  area  some 
three  miles  in  extent.  From  all  appearances  this 
basin  must  have  been  the  scene  of  thermal  activity 
within  a  comparatively  recent  period  ;  but  now  not 
a  spring  can  be  found  with  a  temperature  above 
that  of  ordinary  spring-water.  Similar  brimstone 
basins  are  numerous  around  the  lake,  on  the  lower 
slopes  of  the  mountains,  at  the  foot  of  bluffs,  or 
more  frequently  in  level  districts.  The  latter  are 
always  wet,  and  generally  impassable,  the  thin  crust 
covering  an  abundance  of  scalding  mud,  especially 
dangerous  to  horses. 

The  Upper  Yellowstone  rises  in  the  high  volca- 
nic range  which  shuts  off  the  Yellowstone  Basin 
from  the  Wind  River  drainage,  forming  what  is 
known  as  the  great  water-shed  of  the  continent. 

This  range  of  mountains  has  a  marvellous  histo- 
ry. As  it  is  the  loftiest,  so  it  is  the  most  remarka- 
ble lateral  ridge  of  the  Bocky  Kange.  The  In- 
dians regard  it  as  the  "  crest  of  the  world,"  and 
among  the  Blackfeet  there  is  a  fable  that  he  who 
attains  its  summit  catches  a  view  of  the  land  of 


122  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONK 

Bouls,  aud  beholds  the  happy  hunting-grounda 
spread  out  below  him,  brighteuing  with  the  abodes 
of  free  and  generous  spirits. 

In  the  expedition  sent  across  the  continent  bj 
Mr.  Astor,  in  1811,  under  command  of  Captain 
Wilson  P.  Hunt,  that  gentleman  met  with  the  first 
serious  obstacle  to  his  progress  at  the  base  of  this 
range.  After  numerous  efforts  to  scale  it,  he 
turned  away  and  followed  the  valley  of  the  Snake, 
encountering  the  most  discouraging  disasters  until 
he  arrived  at  Astoria. 

Later,  in  1833,  the  indomitable  Captain  Bonne- 
ville was  lost  in  this  mountain  labyrinth,  and,  after 
devising  various  modes  of  escape,  finally  deter- 
mined to  ascend  the  range,  which  tremendous  task 
he  succeeded  in  accomplishing,  in  company  with 
one  of  his  men.  It  was  this  same  line  of  snow- 
clad,  craggy  peaks  that  turned  back  Captain  Ray- 
nolds  in  1859. 

Near  its  mouth  the  Upper  Yellowstone  is  about 
half  the  size  of  the  main  stream  as  it  leaves  the 
lake.  Its  valley  is  about  three  miles  wide  and  very 
marshy  ;  all  the  little  streams  flowing  down  from 
the  wooded  hill-slopes  being  obstructed  by  beavor- 
dams,  so  as  to  form  continuous  chains  of  ponds. 
The  sides  of  the  valley  are  dark,  sombre  walls  of 
volcanic  rock,  which  weathers  into  curious  and  im- 


BREAKING    THROUGH. 


AROUND    YELLOWSTONE  LAKK  123 

posing  forms.     Looking  up  the  valley  from  some 
high   point,    one   almost   imagines   himself  in    the 
presence   of  the   ruins   of  some   gigantic   city,    so 
much  like  ancient  castles  and   cathedrals  do  these 
rocks   appear  — a    deception   that   is   not   a   little 
heightened   by    the   singular  vertical   furrows  cut 
deep  into  the  cliffs.     At  the  base  of  the  walls  im- 
mense  masses   of   breccia   have   fallen    from    the 
mountain   tops,   in   many    instances   cutting   long 
swaths   through   the  pine  forests.     In  the   upper 
part  of  the   valley,   which  in  midsummer  is  lush 
with  vegetation,  five  streams  flow  down  from  the 
mountains  to  swell  the  waters  of  the  Yellowstone. 
These   streams  Colonel   Barlow  calls,  in  honor  of 
his  commander's  greatest  victory,  the  Five  Forks. 
Here  the  valley  terminates  abruptly,  the  mountains 
rising  like  walls  and  shutting  off  the  country  be- 
yond.    Just  at  the  head  of  the  valley  is  a  httle 
lake,  a  hundred  yards  or  so  in  width  ;  the  large 
lake  which  has  been  placed  on  maps  as  Bridger's 
Lake  having  no  existence.     Dr.  Hayden  with  two 
assistants  ascended  the   mountains  to  the  west  of 
the  head  of  the  valley  to  survey  the  district  bor- 
dering on  the  great  divide.     From  this  point  as 
far  as  the  eye  can  reach  on  every   side  are  bare, 
bald  peaks,  domes  and  ridges  in  great  numbers. 
A.t  least  one  hundred  peaks  worthy  of  a  name  can 


124  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONE. 

be  located  within  the  radius  of  vision.  The  rocka 
everywhere,  though  massive,  black,  and  deeply  fur- 
rowed vertically,  have  the  appearance  of  horizon- 
tal stratification.  In  some  instances  the  furrows 
are  so  regular  that  the  breccia  has  a  columnar  ap- 
pearance. The  summits  of  the  mountains  are  com- 
posed entirely  of  breccia,  containing  angular  masses 
of  trachyte,  from  10  to  30  feet  in  diameter,  though 
most  of  the  fragments  are  small.  Dr.  Hayden's 
party  camped  at  night  near  a  small  lake,  by  the 
side  of  a  bank  of  snow,  lu,000  feet  above  the  sea, 
with  short  spring  grass  and  flowers  all  around 
them.  There  are  but  two  seasons  on  these  moun- 
tain summits,  spring  and  winter ;  as  late  as  Au- 
gust fresh  new  grass  may  be  seen  springing  up 
where  a  huge  bank  of  snow  has  just  disappeared. 
Little  spring-flowers,  seldom  more  than  two  or 
three  inches  high,  cover  the  ground — Clatoriia,  Vio- 
la, Ranunculus,  and  many  others.  The  following 
morning  they  travelled  for  several  miles  along  a 
ridge  not  more  than  two  hundred  yards  wide,  from 
one  side  of  which  the  waters  flow  into  the  Pacific, 
and  on  the  other,  into  the  Atlantic.  To  the  west- 
ward the  outlines  of  the  Teton  Range,  with  its 
shark-teeth  summits,  are  most  clearly  visible,  cov- 
ered with  snow.  From  whatever  point  of  view,  the 
sharp-pointed  peaks  of  this  range  have   the  form 


AROUND    YELLOWSTONE  LAKE.  125 

of  huge  sharks'  teeth.  To  the  southward,  for  fifty 
miles  at  least,  nothing  but  igneous  rocks  can  be 
seen.  Toward  the  Tetons  there  is  a  series  of  high 
ridges,  passing  off  from  the  main  Teton  Kange  to- 
ward the  northeast,  and  varying  in  height  fi'om 
9,500  to  10,500  feet  above  the  sea,  and  from  1,000 
to  1,800  feet  above  the  valleys  at  their  base. 

The  explorers  ascended  one  of  the  high  ridges, 
(not  the  highest,  however,)  and  found  it  to  be  1,650 
feet  above  the  valley  at  its  foot.  The  northeast 
side  is  steep  like  a  roof,  the  southwest  breaking  off 
abruptly.  From  the  summit  of  this  ridge,  the  view 
is  grand  in  the  extreme.  To  the  westward  the  en- 
tire country,  for  the  distance  of  fifty  miles,  seems 
to  have  been  thrown  up  into  high,  sharp  ridges, 
with  gorges  1,000  to  1,500  feet  in  depth.  Beauti- 
ful lakes,  grassy  meadows  also,  come  within  the 
field  of  vision.  "  I  can  conceive,"  says  Dr.  Hay- 
den,  "  of  no  more  wonderful  and  attractive  region 
for  the  explorer.  It  would  not  be  difficult  for  the 
traveller  to  make  his  way  among  these  grand 
gorges,  penetrating  every  valley,  and  ascending 
every  mountain  and  ridge.  The  best  of  grass, 
wood,  water  and  game  are  abundant  to  supply  the 
wants  of  himself  and  animals. 

"  I  think,"  he  continues,  "  that  numerous  passes 
could  be  found  from  the  valley  of  Snake  Eiver  to 


126  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOW STONR 

Hie  basin  of  the  Yellowstone.  It  seems  to  me 
there  are  many  points  on  the  south  rim  of  the  ba- 
sin where  a  road  could  be  made  with  ease  into  the 
valley  of  Snake  River.  From  this  ridge  there  ap- 
pears to  be  but  little  difference  in  the  altitude  of 
Yellowstone  Lake  and  Heart  Lake,  and  they  can- 
not be  more  than  eight  or  ten  miles  apart,  and  yet 
the  latter  is  one  of  the  sources  of  Snake  River. 
The  little  branches  of  Snake  River  nearly  inter- 
lace with  some  streams  that  flow  into  the  lake,  and 
the  gullies  come  up  within  two  miles  of  the  shore- 
line. There  is  a  very  narrow  dividing  ridge  in  one 
place,  between  the  drainage,  which  may  be  within 
one  mile  of  the  lake." 

Heart  Lake  was  visited  by  Colonel  Barlow, 
who  found  it  a  pretty,  pear-shaped  sheet  of  water, 
four  miles  long  and  two  wide  in  its  broadest  part. 
From  the  north  it  receives  a  warm  creek  fed  by  a 
considerable  group  of  hot  springs.  Its  outlet  at 
the  southern  end  joins  the  terminal  creek  of  Snake 
River,  a  few  miles  from  its  source  among  the  Yel- 
lowstone Mountains. 

Ten  miles  northwest  of  Heart  Lake  is  Madison 
Lake,  the  source  of  Madison  River,  the  country 
between  being  a  somewhat  rugged  range  of  moun- 
tains, of  which  Red  Mountain  is  the  most  conspic- 
uous.     To   the    eastward    from    Heart    Lake    is 


AROUND    YELLOWSTONE   LAKE.  127 

Mount  Sheridan,  from  the  summit  of  which  a  mag- 
nificent view  of  the  Yellowstone  Basin  can  be  ob- 
tained. Nearer  the  great  lake  is  Flat  Mountain, 
whose  altitude  falls  a  little  short  of  10,000  feet. 
Between  Flat  Mountain  and  the  Yellowstone  Range 
the  divide  is  very  low,  some  of  the  branches  of 
Snake  Biver  extending  up  to  within  two  miles  of 
the  lake,  where  the  elevation  is  not  more  than  400 
feet  above  the  lake  level.  It  is  doubtless  this  sin- 
gular interlacing  of  the  head- waters  of  the  Yellow- 
stone and  Snake  Biver  that  gave  rise  to  Bridger's 
story  of  the  "  Two  Ocean  Biver." 

At  sunrise  on  the  morning  of  August  10th,  at 
the  west  base  of  Flat  Mountain,  the  thermometer 
stood  at  15^°  Fall.,  and  water  froze  in  Dr.  Hay- 
den's  tent  that  night  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  It 
was  in  this  neighborhood  that  Mr.  Everts  was  lost 
from  the  first  expedition. 

The  country  between  Flat  Mountain  and  the 
hot  springs  at  the  southwestern  extremity  of  the 
lake  is  a  level  plateau  with  alternating  spaces  of 
grassy  glade  and  dense  thickets  of  pine  around 
and  between  a  perfect  network  of  small,  lily-cor- 
ered  lakes.  The  hot  springs  on  the  lake  shore  are 
numerous  and  of  great  variety  and  interest.  There 
are  no  true  geysers,  however,  though  some  of  the 
springs  are  pulsating  springs,  the  water  rising  and 


128  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONK 

falling  ill  their  orifices  with  great  regularity.  High- 
er up  the  bank  are  a  large  number  of  mud-springs, 
two  or  three  hundred  in  all,  of  variable  tempera- 
tures, the  most  of  them  not  differing  materially 
from  those  already  described.  Some,  however, 
have  a  character  strikingly  unique.  The  area  cov- 
ered by  the  springs  is  about  three  miles  long  and 
half  a  mile  wide,  a  portion  of  it  reaching  out  into 
the  lake.  Some  of  the  submerged  springs  have 
built  up  funnel-shaped  craters  of  silicious  deposit, 
from  five  to  twenty  feet  in  height,  rising  from  the 
bottom  to  the  surface  of  the  water.  Extending  a 
pole  over  the  deep  water,  members  of  Dr.  Hay  den's 
party  caught  trout  and  cooked  them  in  these  boil- 
ing springs  out  in  the  lake  without  removing  then 
from  the  hook. 

Foui'  hundred  yards  from  the  lake  shore  is  a  large 
boiling  basin  of  pink-colored  mud,  seventy  feet  in 
diameter,  with  a  rim  of  conical  mud  craters,  which 
project  the  hot  mud  in  every  direction.  The  deposit 
Bpeedilj^  hardens  into  a  firm,  laminated  stone,  of 
beautiful  texture,  though  the  brilliant  pink  color 
fades  to  a  chalky  white.  Near  and  around  this  basin 
are  a  dozen  springs,  from  six  to  twenty-five  feet 
across,  boiling  muddy  water  of  a  paint-like  con- 
sistency, varying  in  color  from  pure  white  to  darP 
yellow.      Close  by  are  several  fiowing  springs  of 


AROUND    YELLOWSTONE  LAKE.  129 

clear  hot  water,  from  ten  to  fifty  feet  in  diameter, 
their  basins  and  channels  lined  with  deposits  of  red, 
green,  yellow,  and  black,  giving  them  an  appearance 
of  gorgeous  splendor.  The  bright  colors  are  on  the 
surface  of  the  rock  only,  which  is  too  friable  to  be 
preserved.  Below  these  springs  are  several  large 
craters  of  bluish  water,  boiling  to  the  height  of  two 
feet  in  the  centre,  and  discharging  large  streams  of 
water ;  their  rims  are  raised  a  few  inches  in  a  deli- 
cate rock-margin  of  a  fringo-like  appearance,  de- 
posited from  the  water.  Beyond  these  are  two  lakes 
of  purple  water,  hot,  but  not  boiling,  and  giving  de- 
posits of  great  beauty.  Near  by  are  two  more  blue 
springs,  one  thhty  by  forty  feet,  and  173°  in  tem- 
perature. This  spring  discharges  a  considerable 
stream  into  the  other,  which  is  seventy  feet  distant, 
and  six  feet  lower.  The  latter  is  forty  feet  by 
seventy-five,  183°  in  temperature,  and  discharges  a 
stream  of  one  hundred  inches.  The  craters  of  these 
springs  are  lined  with  a  silvery-white  deposit  of 
silica,  which  refiect  the  light  so  as  to  illuminate  the 
water  to  an  immense  depth.  Both  craters  have 
perpendicular  but  irregular  walls,  and  the  distance 
lo  which  objects  are  visible  down  in  their  deep 
abysses  is  truly  wonderful. 

West  of  these  is  another  group  of  clear  watered 
hot  springs,  which  surpass  all  the  rest  in  singularity 


130  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONE, 

if  not  in  beauty.  These  have  basins  of  different 
sizes  and  immeasurable  depth,  in  which  float  what 
appear  like  raw  bullock  hides  as  they  look  in  a  tan- 
ner's vat,  waving  sluggishly  with  every  undulation 
of  the  water.  On  examination,  this  leathery  sub- 
stance proves  to  be  of  fragile  texture,  like  the  vege- 
table scum  of  stagnant  pools,  and  brilliantly  colored 
red,  yellow,  green,  etc.,  black  on  the  under  side. 
This  singular  substance  is  about  two  inches  in  thick- 
ness, jelly-like  to  the  touch,  and  is  composed  largely 
of  vegetable  matter,  which  Dr.  Hayden  thinks  to  be 
diatoms. 

Of  the  beautiful  transparency  of  the  springs 
above  described.  Dr.  Hayden  says  :  "  So  clear  was 
the  water  that  the  smallest  object  could  be  seen  on 
the  sides  of  the  basin  ;  and  as  the  breeze  swept 
across  the  surface,  the  ultramarine  hue  of  the  trans- 
parent depth  in  the  bright  sunlight  was  the  most 
dazzlingly  beautiful  sight  I  ever  beheld.  There 
were  a  number  of  these  large  clear  springs,  but  not 
more  than  two  or  three  that  exhibited  all  those 
brilliant  shades,  from  deep  sea  green  to  ultra- 
marine." 

Occasionally,  says  Lieutenant  Doane,  this  ano- 
maly is  seen,  namely :  "  two  springs,  at  different 
levels,  both  boiling  violently  ;  one  pours  a  large  and 
constant  stream  into  the  other,  yet  the  former  does 


AROUND    YELLOWSTONE  LARR  131 

not  dimmish,  nor  does  the  latter  fill  up  and  over- 
flow." 

Most  of  the  springs,  however,  seem  to  be  inde- 
pendent of  each  other,  since  they  have  different 
levels  at  the  surface,  different  temperatures  and  pul- 
sations, and  rarely  are  the  waters  and  deposits  of 
any  two  exactly  alike. 

Passing  northward  through  dense  woods  and  al- 
most impenetrable  fire- slashes,  the  next  noteworthy 
region  arrived  at  is  the  valley  of  Bridge  Creek,  the 
creek  receiving  its  name  from  a  natural  bridge  ot 
trachyte  thrown  across  the  stream.  The  bridge  is 
narrow,  affording  scanty  room  for  the  well-worn 
elk-trail  two  feet  wide,  while  the  descent  on  either 
hand  is  so  great  that  a  fall  from  the  bridge  would  be 
fatal  to  man  or  beast.  Numerous  herds  of  elk  make 
daily  use  of  this  convenient  passway. 

Dead  and  dying  springs  are  abundant  all  along 
the  valley  of  this  creek,  the  most  of  them  being  re- 
duced to  mere  steam-vents.  In  one  place  the 
spring  deposits  cover  several  acres  and  present  a 
most  attractive  picture.  The  ground  is  thickly  cov- 
ered with  conical  mounds,  from  a  few  inches  in  di- 
ameter to  a  hundred  feet,  full  of  steaming  orifices 
lined  with  brillant  sulphur-crystals.  The  under  side 
of  the  heated  crust  is  everywhere  adorned  m  the 
Bame  manner.     The  basis  of  the  deposit  vt  snow- 


132  WONDERS  OF  THE  YELLOWSTONR 

white  silica,  but  it  is  variegated  with  every  shade  of 
yellow  from  sulphur,  aud  with  scarlet  from  oxide  of 
iron.  From  a  distance  the  whole  region  has  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  vast  lime-kiln  in  full  operation.  Most 
of  the  country  has  been  eroded  into  rounded  hills 
from  fifty  to  two  hundred  feet  high,  composed  of 
the  whitish-yellow  and  pinkish  clays  and  sands  of  the 
modern  lake  deposit,  which  seems  to  prevail  more 
or  less  all  round  the  rim  of  the  basin,  reaching  sev- 
eral hundred  feet  above  the  present  level  of  the 
lake. 

Between  Bridge  Creek  and  the  outlet  of  the  lake, 
completing  the  circuit  of  the  basin,  is  the  Elephant's 
Back,  a  long,  low  mountain,  noticeable  only  for  its 
rounded  summit  and  precipitous  sides. 


CHAPTER    Xn. 

UPPER   GEYSER   BASIN  OF  FIREHOLE   RIVER. 

JUST  over  the  western  margin  of  the  Yellow- 
stone Basin,  yet  within  the  limits  of  our 
great  National  Park,  is  the  grand  geyser  region  of 
Firehole  River.  Here,  in  a  valley  a  dozen  miles 
long  and  two  or  three  wide,  is  an  exhibition  of  boil- 
ing and  spouting  springs  on  a  scale  so  stupendous 
that  if  all  the  corresponding  phenomena  of  all  the 
rest  of  the  world  could  be  brought  into  an  equal 
area  the  display  would  seem  as  nothing  in  compari- 
son. 

Firehole  River,  the  main  fork  of  the  Madison, 
has  its  source  in  Madison  Lake,  a  beautiful  sheet 
of  water  set  like  a  gem  among  the  mountains, 
dense  forests  of  pines  coming  down  to  the  very 
shores.  A  pointed  ridge  extends  into  the  lake  ou 
the  west  side  about  half  a  mile,  giving  it  the  form 
of  a  heart.     Its  area  is  about  three  miles  from  nortlj 


134  WONDERS    Oi    THE    YELLOWSTONE 

to  south,  and  two  from  east  to  west.  Its  shores  aie 
paved  with  masses  of  trachyte  and  obsidian.  The 
high  mountains  about  the  lake  and  along  the  river 
are  gashed  with  deep  gorges,  with  steep  and  jag- 
ged sides.  Pines  grow  upon  the  mountain-sides 
where  the  declivity  is  so  great  that  they  cannot  be 
scaled.  In  the  obstructed  gorges  and  on  the 
mountain-tops,  from  9,000  to  10,000  feet  above 
the  sea,  little  lakes  occur  every  mile  or  so,  nestled 
among  the  pines.  Clear-watered  mountain-tor- 
rents tumble  down  the  almost  vertical  ridges  to 
swell  the  Firehole,  making  cascades  that  in  any 
other  region  would  enjoy  world-wide  fame.  Just 
before  reaching  the  geyser-basin,  some  ten  miles 
below  the  lake,  the  river  roars  through  a  deep 
gorge  in  the  trachyte  rock,  and  as  it  emerges, 
dashes  over  two  cliffs,  one  twenty,  the  other  fifty 
feet  in  height.  "  These  pretty  falls,"  writes  Lieu- 
tenant Doane,  "  if  located  on  an  Eastern  stream, 
would  be  celebrated  in  history  and  song ;  here, 
amid  objects  so  grand  as  to  strain  conception  and 
stagger  belief,  they  were  passed  without  a  halt." 

Shortly  after,  the  canon  widens  and  the  dominion 
of  the  Fire  King  begins.  Scattered  along  both 
banks  of  the  river  are  boiling  springs  from  two  to 
twelve  feet  across,  all  in  active  eruption.  The  cra- 
ters of  these  springs  are  from  three  to  forty  feet 


UPPER    QETSEB    BASIN,  135 

high.  Like  the  springs  on  Gardiner's  River,  these 
gradually  seal  themselves  up  by  depositing  mineral 
matter  around  and  over  their  orifices.  Numbers  of 
such  self-extinguished  craters,  now  cones  of  solid 
rock,  are  scattered  along  the  river-side.  Two 
miles  further  down  the  stream  is  the  upper  geyser- 
basin,  an  open,  rolling  valley,  two  miles  wide  and 
three  long,  the  mountains  on  either  side  rising  1,500 
feet  above  the  valley,  with  steep,  heavily-timbered 
ledges  of  dark  rock. 

Hurrying  down  the  Firehole,  thinking  the  won- 
ders of  the  Yellowstone  country  had  been  left  be- 
hind, and  anxious  only  to  reach  the  settlements  of 
the  Madison  Valley,  the  expedition  of  1871  was 
startled  and  astonished  to  see  at  no  great  distance 
an  immense  volume  of  clear,  sparkling  water  pro- 
jected into  the  air  to  the  height  of  one  hundred 
and  twenty -five  feet.  "  Geysers  !  geysers  !"  ex- 
claimed one  of  the  company,  and,  spurring  their 
jaded  horses,  they  were  soon  gathered  around  an 
unexpected  phenomenon — a  perfect  geyser.  The 
aperture  through  which  the  column  of  water  was 
projected  was  an  irregular  oval,  three  feet  by  seven 
in  diameter.  The  margin  of  sinter  was  curiously 
piled  up,  the  exterior  crust  filled  with  little  hollows 
full  of  water,  in  which  were  globules  of  sediment, 
gathered   around  bits  of  wood  and  other  nuclei 


136  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONR 

This  geyser  stands  on  a  mound,  thirty  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  surrounding  plain,  its  crater  ris- 
ing five  or  six  feet  higher.  It  spouted  at  regular 
intervals  nine  times  during  the  explorers'  stay,  the 
columns  of  boiling  water  being  thrown  from  ninety 
to  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  at  each  dis- 
charge, which  lasted  from  fifteen  to  twenty  min- 
utes.    They  gave  it  the  name  of  "  Old  Faithful." 

"  Near  the  crater,  and  as  far  as  the  irruptive  wa- 
ters reach,"  writes  Lieutenant  Doane,  "  the  char- 
acter of  the  deposit  is  very  peculiar.  Close  around 
the  opening  are  built  up  walls,  eight  feet  in  height, 
of  spherical  nodules,  from  six  inches  to  three  feet  in 
diameter.  These  stony  spheres,  in  turn,  are  cov- 
ered with  minute  globules  of  stalagmite,  incrusted 
with  a  thin  glazing  of  silica.  The  rock,  at  a  dis- 
tance, appears  the  color  of  ashes  of  roses,  but 
near  at  hand  shows  a  metallic  gray,  with  pink  and 
yellow  margins  of  the  utmost  delicacy.  Being 
constantly  wet,  the  colors  are  brilliant  beyond  de- 
scription. Sloping  gently  from  this  rim  of  the  cra- 
ter in  every  direction  the  rocks  are  full  of  cavities 
in  successive  terraces,  forming  little  pools,  with 
margins  of  silica  the  color  of  silver,  the  cavities 
being  of  irregular  shape,  constantly  full  of  hot  wa- 
ter, and  precipitating  delicate,  coral-like  beads  of  a 
bright   saffron.     These   cavities   are    also    fringed 


UPPER    GEYSER    BASIN.  137 

with  rock  around  tlie  edges,  in  meshes  as  delicate 
as  the  finest  lace.  Diminutive  yellow  columns  rise 
from  their  depths,  capped  with  small  tablets  of 
rock,  and  resembling  flowers  growing  in  the  water. 
Some  of  them  are  filled  with  oval  pebbles  of  a 
brilliant  white  color,  and  others  with  a  yellow  frost- 
work which  builds  up  gradually  in  solid  stalag- 
mites. Receding  still  farther  from  the  crater,  the 
cavities  become  gradually  larger,  and  the  water 
cooler,  causing  changes  in  the  brilliant  colorings, 
and  also  in  the  formations  of  the  deposits.  These 
become  calcareous  spar,  of  a  white  or  slate  color, 
and  occasionally  variegated.  The  water  of  the 
geyser  is  colorless,  tasteless,  and  without  odor. 
The  deposits  are  apparently  as  delicate  as  the 
down  on  the  butterfly's  wing,  both  in  texture  and 
coloring,  yet  are  firm  and  solid  beneath  the  tread. 
Those  who  have  seen  the  stage  representations  of 
"  Aladdin's  Cave,"  and  the  "  Home  of  the  Dragon 
Fly,"  as  produced  in  a  first-class  theatre,  can  form 
an  idea  of  the  wonderful  coloring,  but  not  of  the 
intricate  frost-work,  of  this  fairy -like,  yet  solid 
mound  of  rock,  growing  up  amid  clouds  of  steam 
and  showers  of  boiling  water.  One  instinctively 
touches  the  hot  ledges  with  his  hands,  and  sounds 
with  a  stick  the  depths  of  the  cavities  in  the  slope, 
in  utter  doubt  in  the  evidence  of  his   own    eyes. 


138  WONDERS    OF   THE   YELLOWSTONE. 

The  beauty  of  the  scene  takes  away  one's  breath. 
It  is  overpowering,  transcending  the  visions  of  the 
Moslem's  Paradise." 

As  the  next  party  of  explorers  were  leaving  the 
basin,  ascending  the  river,  this  grand  old  geyser, 
which  stands  sentinel  at  the  head  of  the  valley,  gave 
them  a  magnificent  parting  display.  "  With  little 
or  no  preliminary  warning,"  writes  Dr.  Hayden,  "  it 
shot  up  a  column  of  water  about  six  feet  in  diam- 
eter to  the  height  of  100  to  150  feet,  and  by  a  suc- 
cession of  impulses  seemed  to  hold  it  up  steadily 
for  the  space  of  fifteen  minutes,  the  great  mass  of 
water  falling  directly  back  into  the  basin,  and  flow- 
ing over  the  edges  and  down  the  sides  in  large 
streams.  When  the  action  ceases,  the  water  re- 
cedes beyond  sight,  and  nothing  is  heard  but  the 
occasional  escape  of  steam  until  another  exhibition 
occurs.  This  is  one  of  the  most  accommodating 
geysers  in  the  basin,  and  during  our  stay  played 
once  an  hour  quite  regularly." 

Old  Faithful  stands  alone,  though  surrounded  by 
a  number  of  old  geyser  hills,  whether  built  up  in 
past  ages  by  one  spring  shifting  its  position  from 
time  to  time,  or  by  a  group  of  springs,  now  almost 
exhausted,  it  is  impossible  to  tell. 

Just  across  the  river,  and  close  to  the  margin, 
stands  a  silicious  cone,  very  symmetrical,  slightly 


UPPER  OETSER  BASIN.  139 

corrugated  on  its  exterior  surface,  three  feet  in 
height  and  five  in  diameter  at  its  base.  Its  orifice 
is  oval,  with  scalloped  edges,  and  two  feet  by  three 
in  diameter,  Of  this  unpretending  cone  Mr.  Lang- 
ford  writes : 

"  Not  one  of  our  company  supposed  that  it  was  a 
geyser ;  and  among  so  many  wonders  it  had  almost 
escaped  notice.  While  we  were  at  breakfast  upon 
the  morning  of  our  departure  a  column  of  water, 
entirely  filling  the  crater,  shot  from  it,  which,  by 
accurate  triangular  measurement,  we  found  to  be 
219  feet  in  height.  The  stream  did  not  deflect 
more  than  four  or  five  degrees  from  a  vertical  line, 
and  the  eruption  lasted  eighteen  minutes.  We 
named  it  *  The  Beehive.' " 

A  hundred  yards  further  from  the  river,  near  the 
centre  of  the  large  group  of  spouting  and  boiling 
geysers,  of  which  the  Beehive  is  one,  is  a  large  oval 
aperture  with  scalloped  edges,  the  diameters  of 
which  were  eighteen  and  twenty-five  feet,  the  sides 
corrugated  and  covered  with  a  greyish-white  sih- 
cious  deposit,  which  was  distinctly  visible  at  the 
depth  of  one  hundred  feet  below  the  surface. 

"No  water  could  be  discovered,"  writes  Mr.  Lang- 
ford,  on  his  first  approach  to  the  spring,  "but  we 
could  distictly  hear  it  gurghng  and  boiling  at  a 
great  distance  below.     Suddenly  it  began  to  rise^ 


140  WONDERS    OF   THE    TELLOWSTONK 

boiling  and  spluttering,  and  sending  out  liuge  masses 
of  steam,  causing  a  general  stampede  of  our  com- 
pany, driving  us  some  distance  from  our  point  oi 
observation.  When  within  about  forty  feet  of  the 
surface  it  became  stationary,  and  we  returned  to 
look  down  upon  it.  It  was  foaming  and  surging  at 
a  terrible  rate,  occasionally  emitting  small  jets  of 
hot  water  nearly  to  the  mouth  of  the  orifice.  All 
at  once  it  seemed  seized  with  a  fearful  spasm,  and 
rose  with  incredible  rapidity,  hardly  affording  us 
time  to  flee  to  a  safe  distance,  when  it  burst  from 
the 'Orifice  with  terrific  momentum,  rising  in  a  col- 
umn the  full  size  of  this  immense  aperture  to  the 
height  of  .sixty  feet ;  and  through  and  out  of  the 
apex  of  thi-s  vast  aqueous  mass,  five  or  six  lesser 
jets  or  round  columns  of  water,  varying  in  size  from 
six  to  fifteen  inches  in  diameter,  were  projected  to 
the  marvellous  height  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet. 
These  lesser  jets,  so  much  higher  than  the  main 
column,  and  shooting  through  it,  doubtless  proceed 
from  auxiliary  pipes  leading  into  the  principal 
orifice  near  the  bottom,  where  the  explosive  force 

is  greater This  grand  eruption  continued  for 

twenty  minutes,  and  was  the  most  magnificent  sight 
we  ever  witnessed.  We  were  standing  on  the  side 
of  the  geyser  nearest  the  sun,  the  gleams  of  which 
filled  the  sparkling  column  of  water  and  spray  with 


UPFER    GEYSER    BASIN,  141 

myriads  of  rainbows,  whose  arches  were  constantly 
changing, — dipping  and  fluttering  hither  and  thither 
and  disappearing  only  to  be  succeeded  by  others, 
again  and  again,  amid  the  aqueous  column,  while 
the  minute  globules  into  which  the  spent  jets  were 
diffused  when  falling  sparkled  like  a  shower  of 
diamonds,  and  around  every  shadow  which  the 
denser  clouds  of  vapor,  interrupting  the  sun's  rays, 
cast  upon  the  column,  could  be  seen  a  luminous 
circle  radiant  with  all  the  colors  of  the  prism,  and 
resembling  the  halo  of  glory  represented  in  paint- 
ings as  encircling  the  head  of  Divinity.  All  that 
we  had  previously  witnessed  seemed  tame  in  com- 
parison with  the  perfect  grandeur  and  beauty  of  this 
display.  Two  of  these  wonderful  eruptions  occurred 
during  the  twenty-two  hours  we  remained  in  the 
valley.     This  geyser  we  named  *  The  Giantess.'  " 

The  central  spring  of  this  group  stands  on  the 
summit  of  a  great  mound  built  up  in  thin  layers,  by 
the  continual. but  moderate  overflow  of  the  spring. 
The  crater  is  twenty  feet  in  diameter,  slightly  bub- 
bling or  boiling  near  the  centre,  and  with  a  thin, 
elegant  ring  projecting  a  few  inches  over  the  water. 
Looking  down  into  the  clear  water  of  this  spring 
one  seems  to  be  gazing  into  fathomless  depths, 
while  the  bright  blue  of  the  water  is  unequalled  even 
by  the  sea.     There  are  many  such  central  springs, 


142  WONDERS    OF    THE    TELLOWSTONK 

usually  crowning  the  summits  of  mounds,  and  with 
projecting  rims  carved  with  an  intricate  delicacy 
trul}"  marvellous,  and  adorned  with  colors  that  defy 
description.  "  The  great  beauty  of  the  prismatic 
colors,"  writes  Dr.  Hayden,  "  depends  much  on  the 
sunlight ;  about  the  middle  of  the  day,  when  the 
bright  rays  descend  nearly  vertically,  and  a  slight 
breeze  just  makes  a  ripple  on  the  surface,  the  colors 
exceed  comparison  ;  when  the  surface  is  calm  there 
is  one  vast  chaos  of  colors,  dancing,  as  it  were,  like 
the  colors  of  a  kaleidoscope.  As  seen  through  this 
marvellous  play  of  colors,  the  decorations  on  the 
sides  of  the  basin  are  Hghted  up  with  a  wild,  weird 
beauty,  which  wafts  one  at  once  into  the  land  of  en  ^ 
chantment ;  all  the  brilliant  feats  of  fairies  and 
genii  in  the  Arabian  I^ights'  Entertainments  are  for- 
gotten in  the  actual  presence  of  such  marvellous 
beauty  ;  life  becomes  a  privilege  and  a  blessing  aftei 
one  has  seen  and  thoroughly  felt  its  cunning  skill." 
Across  the  river,  and  a  short  distance  below  this 
group,  is  the  largest  and  most  imposmg  formation 
in  the  valley — the  crater  of  Castle  Geyser.  This 
geyser  receives  its  name  from  its  resemblance  to  the 
ruins  of  an  old  castle  as  one  enters  the  valley  from 
the  east.  The  deposited  silica  has  crystallized  m 
immense  globular  masses,  like  cauliflowers  or  spong- 
iform corals,  apparently  formed  about  a  nucleus  at 


UPPER    OETSER    BASlK.  143 

right  angles  to  the  centre.     The  entire  monnd  is 
about  forty  feet  high,  and  the  chimney  twenty  feet 
The  lower  portion  rises  in   steps  formed   of    thin 
laminae  of  sihca,  mostly  very  thin,  but  sometimea 
compact,  an  inch  or  two  thick.     On  the  southeast 
side,  where   the   water   is   throw^n  out  continually, 
these  steps  are  ornamented  with  the  usual  bead  and 
shell  work,  with  the  large  cauliflower-like  masses : 
but  the  other  portions  are  fast  going  to  decay,  and 
the  debris  are  abundant.     This   has   undoubtedly 
been  one  of  the  most  active  and  powerful  geysers 
in  the  basin  ;  it  still  keeps  up  a  great  roarmg  inside, 
and  every  few  moments,  as  observed  by  Dr.  Hay- 
den,  it  throws  out  a  column  of  water  to  the  height 
of  ten  or  fifteen  feet.    Occasionally  it  seems  to  have 
more  imposing   eruptions,   since   on   one   occasion 
Lieutenant  Doane  saw  it  throw  a  column  of  water 
to  the  height  of  sixty  feet,  with  the  escape  of  heavy 
volumes  of  steam.     The  next  year  Colonel  Barlow 
saw  a  similar  display.     According  to  the  latter  ob- 
server, the  base  of  the  crater  is  three  hundred  and 
twenty-five  feet  in  circumference,  and  the  turret  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five.     At  the  base  of  the  tui*ret 
hes  a  large  petrified  pine  log,  covered  wdth  a  bril- 
liant incrustation  several  inches  thick. 

Across  the  river,  and  a  little  below  the  Castle,  are 
«ome  fifty  springs  and  geysers,  the  chief  of  which 


144  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONK 

has  been  called  Grand  Geyser,  its  power  seeming 
greater  than  that  of  any  other  in  the  valley..  Lieu- 
tenant Doane  describes  this  magnificent  geyser  as 
follows : 

"  Opposite  camp,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  is 
a  high  ledge  of  stalagmite,  sloping  from  the  base  of 
the  mountain  down  to  the  river.  Numerous  smaU 
knolls  are  scattered  over  its  surface;  the  craters  of 
boiling  springs  from  15  to  25  feet  in  diameter ;  some 
of  these  throw  water  to  the  height  of  three  and  four 
feet.  On  the  summit  of  this  bank  of  rock  is  the 
grand  geyser  of  the  world,  a  well  in  the  strata,  20 
by  25  feet  in  diametric  measurements,  (the  percep- 
tible elevation  of  the  rim  being  but  a  few  inches,) 
and  when  quiet  having  a  visible  depth  of  100  feet. 
The  edge  of  the  basin  is  bounded  by  a  heavy  fringe 
of  rock,  and  stalagmite  in  solid  layers  is  deposited 
by  the  overflowing  waters.  When  an  eruption  is 
about  to  occur  the  basin  gradually  fills  with  boiling 
water  to  within  a  few  feet  of  the  surface,  then  sud- 
denly, with  heavy  concussions,  immense  clouds  of 
steam  rise  to  the  height  of  500  feet,  and  the  whole 
great  body  of  water,  20  by  25  feet,  ascends  in  one 
gigantic  column  to  the  height  of  90  feet ;  from  the 
apex  of  this  column  five  great  jets  shoot  up,  radi- 
ating slightly  from  each  other,  to  the  unparalleled 
altitude  of  250  feet  from  the   ground.     The  earth 


IHE   GRAND   GEYSER  OF   THE   FIRE-HOLE   BASIN. 


UPPER    GEYSER    BASIN.  145 

trembles  under  the  descending  deluge  from  this  vast 
fountain  ;  a  thousand  hissing  sounds  are  heard  in 
the  air ;  rainbows  encircle  the  summits  of  the  jets 
with  a  halo  of  celestial  glory.  The  falling  water 
plows  up  and  bears  away  the  shelly  strata,  and  a 
seething  flood  pours  down  the  slope  and  into  the 
river.  It  is  the  grandest,  the  most  majestic,  and 
most  terrible  fountain  in  the  world.  After  playing 
thus  for  twenty  minutes  it  gradually  subsides, 
the  water  lowers  into  the  crater  out  of  sight,  the 
steam  ceases  to  escape,  and  all  is  quiet.  This  grand 
geyser  played  three  times  in  the  afternoon,  but  ap- 
pears to  be  irregular  in  its  periods,  as  we  did  not 
see  it  in  eruption  again  while  in  the  valley.  Its 
waters  are  of  a  deep  ultramarine  color,  clear  and 
beautiful.  The  waving  to  and  fro  of  the  gigantic 
fountain,  in  a  bright  sunlight,  when  its  jets  are  at 
their  highest,  affords  a  spectacle  of  wonder  of  which 
any  description  can  give  but  a  feeble  idea.  Our 
whole  party  were  wild  with  enthusiasm ;  many  de- 
clared it  was  300  feet  in  height ;  but  I  have  kept,  in 
the  figures  as  set  down  above,  within  the  hmits  ol 
absolute  certainty." 

Dr.  Hayden  descj'ibes  it  with  equal  enthusiasm. 

"  We  camped  the  evening  of  August  5th,  in  the 
middle  of  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin,  in  the  midst  of 
some  of  the  grandest  geysers  in  the  world.    ColoneJ 


146  WOm)ERS    OF    TEE    YELLOWSTONE. 

Barlow  and  Captain  Heap,  of  the  United  States 
Engineers,  were  camped  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Firehole.  Soon  after  reaching  camp  a  tremendous 
rumbUng  was  heard,  shaking  the  ground  in  every 
direction,  and  soon  a  column  of  steam  burst  forth 
from  a  crater  near  the  edge  of  the  east  side  of  the 
river.  Following  the  steam  by  a  succession  of  im- 
pulses, a  column  of  water,  apparently  six  feet  in 
diameter,  rose  to  the  height  of  200  feet,  while  the 
steam  ascended  a  thousand  feet  or  more.  So  steady 
and  uniform  did  the  force  act,  that  the  column  of 
water  appeared  to  be  held  there  for  some  minutes, 
returning  into  the  basin  in  millions  of  prismatic 
drops.  This  was  continued  for  about  fifteen  minutes, 
and  the  rumbling  and  confusion  attending  it  could 
be  compared  only  to  that  of  a  charge  in  battle.  It 
would  be  difficult  to  describe  the  intense  excitement 
which  attended  such  a  display.  It  is  probable  that 
if  we  could  have  remained  in  the  valley  several 
days,  and  become  accustomed  to  all  the  preliminary 
warnings,  the  excitement  would  have  ceased,  and 
we  could  have  admired  calmly  the  marvellous  ease 
and  beauty  with  which  this  column  of  hot  water 
was  held  up  to  that  great  height  for  the  space  o 
twenty  minutes.  After  the  display  is  over  the  water 
settles  down  in  the  basin  several  inches  and  the 
temperature  slowly  falls  to  150°.     We  called  this 


UPPER    GEYSER    BASm.  I47 

fclie  Grand  Geyser,  for  its  power  seemed  greater 
than  any  other  of  which   we  obtained  any  knowl- 
edge in  the  valley.     The  are  two  orifices  in  one  ba- 
sin ;  one  of  them  seems  to  have  no  raised  rim,  and 
is  a  very  modest-looking  spring  in  a  state  of  quies- 
cence, and  no  one  would  for  a  moment  suspect  the 
power  that  was  temporarily  slumbering  below.     The 
orifice  is  oblong,  two  and  a  half  by  four  feet,  while 
for  the  space  of  ten  feet  in  every  direction  around 
it  are  rounded  masses  of  silica,  from  a  few  inches 
to  three  feet  in  diameter,  looking  like  spongiform 
corals.     Nothing  could  exceed  the  crystal  clearness 
of  the  water.     This  is  the  Grand  Geyser.     Within 
twenty  feet  of  this  orifice  is  a  second  one,  of  irregu- 
lar quadrangular  form,  fifteen  by  twenty-five   feet ; 
the  east  side  of  the  main  outer  rim  of  reservoir  ex- 
tended twenty  feet  beyond  the  large  orifice.     The 
bottom  of  this  great  reservoir  is  covered  with  thick 
spongiform  masses,  and  in  addition  the  rim  is  most 
elegantly  adorned  with  countless  pearl -like  beads,  of 
all   sizes.     There    are  several  beautiful  triangular 
reservoirs,  one  and  one  half  by  three  feet,  set  around 
the  outer  sides  of  the  rim,  with  numerous   smaller 
ones,  full  of  clear  water,  with  hundreds  of  small  de- 
pressions most  beautifully  scalloped.     As  we  recede 
from  the  rim,  the  waters  as  they  pass   slowly   away 
produce,  by  evaporation,  broad  shallow  basins,  with 


148  WONDERS    OJB    TEE    YELLOWSTONK 

thin,  elegantly  colored  partitions,  portions  of  which 
have  the  form  of  toad-stools.  When  the  water  set- 
tles into  these  depressions,  or  flows  away  toward 
the  river  in  numerous  small  channels,  the  wonderful 
variety  of  coloring  which  is  so  attractive  to  the  eye 
is  produced.  The  larger  orifice  seems  to  be  in  a 
state  of  violent  agitation  as  often  as  once  in  twenty 
minutes,  raising  up  the  entire  mass  of  water  ten  or 
fifteen  feet.  It  is  never  altogether  quiet.  Although 
these  two  orifices  are  within  the  same  rim,  I  could  not 
ascertain  that  tliere  is  the  slightest  connection  with 
each  other.  When  the  large  orifice  is  much  agitated 
it  does  not  disturb  the  equanimity  of  the  Grand  Gey- 
ser. They  both  operate  perfectly  independently  of 
each  other.  Indeed  I  do  not  know  that  there  is  a 
connection  between  any  of  the  springs  in  the  whole 
basin,  though  there  may  be  in  some  rare  cases. 
The  Grand  Geyser  operated  twice  while  we  were  in 
the  basin,  with  an  interval  of  about  thirty -two  hours ; 
of  course  the  displays  could  not  be  exactly  periodic, 
but  it  would  be  an  interesting  study  to  remain  sev- 
eral days  to  watch  carefully  the  movements  of  such 
a  power." 

Just  east  of  Grand  Geyser  is  the  Saw-mill,  a 
moderate  sized  geyser,  with  three  smaller  ones  by 
the  side  of  it,  all  playing  at  the  same  time.  From 
the  larger  a  column  of  water  is  constantly  shot  up 


UPPER    GEYSER    BASIN.  14S 

fifteen  or  twenty  feet,  with  much  the  sound  of  the 
escape  of  steam  from  a  pipe.  The  orifice  is  not 
more  than  six  inches  in  diameter ;  but  with  the 
three  smaller  ones  playing  at  the  same  time  a  great 
commotion  is  excited.  Near  this  little  group  are 
several  large  boihng  springs,  which  throw  up  the 
water  in  the  centre  from  two  to  four  feet.  These 
are  funnel-shaped,  with  orifices  from  six  inches  to 
two  feet  in  diameter,  in  basins  with  nearly  ckcular 
rims,  from  fifteen  to  forty  feet  in  diameter.  About 
one  fourth  of  a  mile  northeast  of  the  Castle,  upon 
a  mound  thirty  feet  about  above  the  river,  built  up 
of  thin  laminae  of  sihca,  and  rounded  off,  rise  four 
chimneys  of  different  sizes,  which  are  geysers, 
though  perhaps  not  spouting  extensively  at  present. 
One  is  twelve  inches  high,  nearly  circular,  and  three 
feet  in  diameter  ;  the  second  is  oblong,  four  by  six 
feet,  with  rather  coarsely  scolloped  margins,  with  an 
aperture  about  fifteen  inches  in  diameter  ;  the  third 
chimney  is  about  three  feet  high  and  six  feet  in  di- 
ameter at  the  base,  with  an  orifice  nearly  quadran- 
gular twelve  inches  across.  The  spongiform  masses 
inside  are  covered  all  over  with  beautiful  pearly 
beads  of  silica.  The  fourth  chimney  rises  five  feet 
above  the  mound,  is  ten  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base, 
with  an  orifice  two  feet  across,  lined  inside  with  the 
spongiform  masses.     This  has  been  at  one  time  » 


150  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONK 

first-class  geyser,  but  is  now  fast  going  to  decay,  a 
beautiful  ruin.     The  elegant  bead  work  on  the  mar- 
gin, and  all  the  spongiform  masses,  now  are  falling 
into  pieces,  forming  great  quantities  of  debris  around 
the  base  of  the  mound.     There  is  also  one  boiling 
spring  of  great  beauty.     The  orifice,  which  is  nearly 
circular  and  beautifully  scolloped  around  the  mar- 
gin,  extends  straight   down,    and   the   water   rises 
within  an  inch  or  two  of  the  margin.     The  water  is 
in  a  state  of  constant  agitation,  boiling  up   two  feet 
at   times.     The   margin   has   a   coating   of   bright 
cream-yellow,  while  all  around  the  surface  there  is 
the  most  delicate  and  intricate  embroidering,  sur- 
passing the  most  elaborate  lace-work.     Surrounding 
the  crater  is  an  outer  reservoir  four  feet  wide,  with 
a  white  and  reddish-yellow  rim,  while  in  the  bottom 
of  the  reservoir  is  the  variegated  sediment   which 
aids  in  giving  such  a  wonderfully  gay   appearance 
to  the  spring.     A  stream  of  water  flows  from  the 
spring  to  the  river,  and  the  channel  is  lined  for  fifty 
yards  with  the  variegated  sediment.     Near  this  is 
another  mound  which  rises,  with  laminated  steps, 
about   six  feet.     Dr.  Hay  den  called  it   the   Bath- 
tub.    It  has  much  the  shape  and  size  of  an  or- 
dinary  batliing-tub,   five   feet   by   ten,    beautifully 
woUoped  around  the  inner  margin  with  the  spongi- 
form or  cauliflower  masses  of  silica,  the  outer  sur- 


UPPER    GEYSER    BASIN.  151 

face  being  adorned  with  the  greatest  profusion  of 
pearly  beads.  The  water  is  constantly  boiling  up  two 
feet  high,  though  but  a  small  quantity  flows  from  the 
spring.  The  entire  valley  is  full  of  similar  springs, 
many  of  these  no  doubt  geysers  whose  periods  of  ac- 
tivity have  never  been  observed.  "  We  could  not 
distinguish,"  writes  Lieut.  Doane,  "  the  geysers 
from  the  other  hot  springs  except  by  seeing  them 
play,  and  doubtless  there  are  many  besides  in  the 
valley  of  great  size,  which  we  saw  when  quiet,  and 
classed  as  boiling  springs.  They  all  vary  in  times, 
force,  deposits,  and  color  of  water.  The  number  of 
springs  of  all  kinds  in  the  valley  is  not  less  than 
fifteen  hundred  ;  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  Blue- 
stone  Springs,  scarcely  any  two  are  exactly  alike. 
Taken  as  an  aggregate,  the  Firehole  Basin  surpasses 
all  the  other  great  wonders  of  the  continent.  It 
produces  an  effect  on  the  mind  of  the  beholder  ut- 
terly staggering  and  overpowering.  During  the 
night  we  were  several  times  awakened  by  the  rush 
of  steam  and  the  hissing  of  the  waters,  as  the  rest- 
less geysers  spouted  forth  in  the  darkness.  A  con- 
stant rumbling,  as  of  machinery  in  labor,  filled  the 
air,  which  was  damp  and  warm  throughout  the 
night." 

Lieutenant  Doane's  suspicion  that  many  quiet- 
looking  springs  were  slumbering  geysers,  was  speed- 


152  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONR 

ily  and  grandly  justified.  The  very  next  morning 
his  company  were  awakened  by  a  fearful  hissing 
sound,  accompanied  by  the  rush  of  falling  water. 
On  looking  out,  they  saw  on  the  other  side  of  the 
stream  a  small  crater,  three  feet  in  height,  with  an 
opening  26  inches  in  diameter,  which  had  scarce- 
ly been  noticed  on  the  previous  day.  Now  it  was 
playing  a  perpendicular  jet  to  the  height  of  219 
feet,  amid  great  clouds  of  steam,  and  causing  the 
ground  to  tremble  as  the  heavy  body  of  water  fell 
with  tremendous  splashes  upon  the  shelly  strata 
below.  Huge  masses  of  rock  were  torn  from  their 
places  and  borne  away  into  the  river  channel.  It 
played  thus,  steadily,  for  ten  minutes,  giving 
time  to  obtain  an  accurate  measurement  by  trian- 
gulation.  This  crater  gave  no  notice  of  being  a 
geyser,  and  its  appearance  and  size,  compared  with 
others,  were  altogether  insignificant.  "  We  were 
more  than  ever  convinced,"  adds  Lieutenant  Doane, 
*'  that  continued  observation  would  develop  the 
knowledge  of  geysers  in  greater  numbers,  and  per- 
haps of  greater  projectile  force  than  any  we  had 
Been." 

Crossing  the  river  once  more  to  the  south  side — 
that  of  Old  Faithful  and  the  Castle — we  find  an- 
other large  group  of  springs,  the  chief  of  which  ia 
the  Giant.     This  is  remarkable  rather  for  its  im- 


UPPJ£E    GEYSER    BASIN. 


153 


mense  flow  of  water  than  for  any  peculiarity  of 
structure.  It  has  a  rugged  crater,  shaped  Hke  the 
base  of  a  broken  horn,  twelve  feet  high.  Its  cavity 
or  nozzle  is  seven  feet  in  diameter. 


THE   GIANT   QEYSEE. 


During  its  quiescent  state  the  boiling  water  can 
be  seen  in  its  chambers  at  a  depth  of  forty  feet,  the 
action  of  the  steam  and  water  together  producing  a 
loud,  rumbling  sound.  Near,  and  acting  in  concert 
with  it,  are  half  a  dozen  smaller  craters  from  two  to 
eight  feet  in  height,  constantly  full   of  water,  and 


154  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONK 

boiling  violently  from  two  to  six  feet  into  the  air, 
"  This  great  geyser,"  says  Lieutenant  Doane, 
"  played  several  times  while  we  were  in  the  valley,  on 
jne  occasion  throwing  constantly  for  over  three 
hours  a  stream  of  water  seven  feet  in  diameter,  from 
UO  o  200  feet  perpendicularly.  While  playing  it 
doubled  the  size  of  the  Firehole  River." 

At  the  base  of  the  mountain  further  south  is  a 
remarkable  geyser,  discovered  by  Colonel  Barlow, 
and  called  by  him  the  Comet. 

The  crater  of  this  geyser  is  very  beautiful,  though, 
being  but  slightly  elevated  above  the  general  slope 
of  the  plateau,  it  might  easily  be  overlooked,  should 
it  not  happen  to  play  during  the  visit  of  an  examin- 
ing party.  There  are  three  openings.  One,  a  very 
small  aperture,  emits  puffs  of  steam,  similar  to  the 
exhaust-pipe  of  a  steam  engine.  The  large  one  in 
the  centre,  six  feet  across,  boils  violently  during  an 
eruption,  but  does  not  throw  water  to  a  great 
height.  The  third  opening  is  the  geyser  proper.  It 
is  twelve  by  eighteen  inches  in  diameter,  somewhat 
narrowed  as  it  descends,  and  is  of  great  depth- 
smooth  and  straight.  These  cavities  are  all  lined 
with  delicate  deposit,  beautifully  enamelled,  in  ap- 
pearance as  delicate  as  frost-work,  but  hard  and 
strong,  requiring  the  assistance  of  a  hammer  to  de- 


UPPER    GEYSER  BASIN.  155 

tach  fragments  for  specimens.  Soon  after  Colonel 
Barlow  entered  the  basin  he  witnessed  a  grand 
eruption  of  this  geyser.     He  says  : 

"  A  roar  was  heard  near  the  hillside  a  hundred 
yards  distant,  and  upon  rushing  out  in  that  direc- 
tion we  saw  a  huge  mass  of  steam  issuing  from  a 
crater  at  the  base  of  the  hill,  accompanied  by  a 
column  of  water  rising  to  a  height  far  exceeding 
that  of  any  geyser  yet  seen.  This  grand  fountain 
continued  to  play  for  several  minutes,  when,  having 
subsided,  I  approached  to  obtain  a  closer  view  of 
the  aperture  whence  had  issued  such  a  powerful 
stream.  A  sudden  gush  of  steam  drove  me  away, 
following  which  the  water  was  again  impelled  up- 
ward and  upward,  far  above  the  steam,  until  it 
seemed  to  have  lost  the  controlhng  force  of  gravity. 
The  roar  was  like  the  sound  of  a  tornado,  but  there 
was  no  apparent  effort — a  steady  stream,  very 
graceful  and  perfectly  vertical,  except  as  a  sHght 
breeze  may  have  waved  it  to  and  fro.  Strong  and 
smooth,  it  continued  to  ascend,  like  the  stream  from 
a  powerful  steam  fire-engine.  We  were  all  lost  in 
astonishment  at  the  sudden  and  marvellous  specta- 
cle. I  have  no  hesitancy  in  stating  that  this  geyser 
played  to  the  height  of  over  two  hundred  feet.  It 
commenced  at  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  and  con 
tinued  twenty  minutes. 


156  WONDERS    OF   THE  YELLOWSTONE. 

"  The  enthusiasm  of  the  party  as  they  watched 
this  wondrous  display  knew  no  bounds.  Those 
who  were  usually  loud  and  boisterous  in  the  ex- 
hibition of  their  feelings,  became  subdued  and 
simply  gazed  in  silent  awe;  while  the  more  sober 
members  seemed  to  lose  their  natural  gravity  and 
manifested  their  delight  in  shouts  of  rapture.  For 
myself,  I  remember  trying  to  obtain  a  view  of  the 
fountain  from  all  points  of  the  compass  at  once, 
and  was  brought  to  a  realizing  sense  of  the  difficul- 
ties attending  the  execution  of  this  desire,  by  dis- 
covering that  I  was  waiting  in  the  torrent  of  hot 
water  which  was  now  flooding  the  nearly  level  sur- 
face of  the  surrounding  rock. 

"  After  the  grand  column  of  water  subsided,  vast 
clouds  of  steam,  were  for  some  time  ejected  from 
the  throat  of  the  geyser,  and  also  from  a  small  rent 
close  beside  the  main  orifice. 

"  Durmg  the  following  day  we  watched  this  crater 
with  increasing  vigilance  in  the  hope  of  witnessing 
another  of  its  stupendous  exhibitions.  The  photo- 
grapher kept  his  camera  levelled  upon  the  spot  all 
day,  and  careful  arrangements  for  triangulating  the 
height  of  the  column  were  also  made.  But  though 
numerous  mdications  of  another  eruption  were 
observed  at  intervals  by  the  rising  of  the  water  with 


UPPER    GEYSER    BASI^.  157 

violent  ebullitions,  no  explosion  occurred  till  about 
ton  o'clock  at  niglit,  when  the  grand  performance 
was  repeated.  The  spectacle  by  moonhght  was 
truly  sublime,  but  less  satisfactory  than  in  the  day, 
since  it  was  more  difficult  to  distinguish  between  the 
column  of  water  and  the  masses  of  vapor  escaping 
with  it.  The  interval  between  its  eruptions  was  ap- 
proximately determined  as  about  twenty-nine  hours  ; 
we  therefore  reasoned  that  it  would  play  again  at 
three  o'clock  the  following  night,  and  at  eight  on 
the  succeeding  morning.  But  we  were  doomed  to 
disappointment ;  the  eruption  persisted  in  taking 
place  before  daylight  on  the  three  succeeding  nights, 
thus  preventing  the  observations  we  so  much  desired 

to  make." 

Two  hundred  yards  below  the  Giant  is  the  Grotto 
so  named  from  the  curious  irregularity  of  its  inclos- 
ing walls.  It  has  an  exceedingly  intricate  formation, 
with  fantastic  arches,  pillars,  and  turreted  sides, 
and  discharges  several  times  a  day.  Several  of  the 
first  explorers  crawled  through  the  sinuous  aper- 
tures when  all  was  quiet.  It  seemed  as  harmless  as 
curious  then,  but  their  opinion  was  changed  slightly 
when  they  saw  it  an  hour  after  throwing  a  column 
of  water  six  feet  in  diameter  to  the  height  of  sixty 
feet     Near  it  are  several  vents  in  which  the  water 


158  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONK 

boils  constantly  to  the  height  of  six  feet,  large 
streams  running  down  the  banks  into  the  river. 

Around  the  point  of  a  hill  a  few  hundred  yards 
south  of  the  Grotto,  and  partially  concealed  by  a 
grove  of  pines,  is  a  white  cone  twenty-five  feet  high 
and  a  hundred  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base.  It  has 
evidently  been  a  geyser  of  considerable  importance, 
but  it  now  merely  sends  forth  puffs  of  steam  from  a 
small  orifice  at  the  top.  Near  it  is  a  quiet  hot- 
spring  with  a  most  elegantly  scalloped  rim.  Back 
of  this  Pyramid  is  the  Punch  Bowl,  and  still  further 
south,  the  Black  Sand  Geyser,  neither  of  which 
has  been  specially  described. 

Beturning  to  the  river  and  crossing  we  find  at  the 
water's  edge,  nearly  opposite  the  Grotto,  the  River- 
side Geyser,  and  a  short  distance  below,  on  the 
same  side,  is  the  Fan.  The  latter  geyser  has  a 
double  orifice,  which  discharges  five  radiating  jets 
to  the  height  of  sixty  feet,  the  falling  drops  and 
spray  giving  the  appearance  of  a  feather  fan.  The 
effect  is  very  beautiful.  Its  eruptions  are  frequent, 
lasting  usually  from  ten  to  thirty  minutes.  A  vent 
connected  with  it,  about  forty  feet  distant,  expels 
dense  masses  of  vapor  fifty  or  sixty  feet  high,  ac- 
companied by  loud,  sharp  reports,  during  the  time 
the  geyser  is  in  action.  Lieutenant  Doane  describes 
the  curious  action  of  these  vents  as  follows  : 


o 

I 

I— ( 

w 

02 


55 


UPPER    GEYSER    BASIN,  I59 

"  First  the  steam  would  rush  from  the  upper  cra- 
ter, roaring  violentl}^,  then  this  would  suddenly 
cease,  to  be  followed  by  a  fan-like  jet  of  water  rising 
from  the  lower  crater  to  the  height  of  over  forty 
reet,  playing  for  perhaps  two  minutes ;  then  this 
would  suddenly  stop  flowing,  and  the  steam  would 
rush  forth  again  for  a  time.  Occasionally  the  small 
crater  threw  a  transverse  stream,  alternating  with 
the  others  ;  and  thus  they  played  on  for  hours,  after 
which  all  would  subside  to  a  gentle  bubbling." 

Along  both  banks  of  the  river  are  small  craters 
built  up  in  every  conceivable  shape.  Several 
sti'eams  pour  out  cascades  from  round  holes  in 
the  rocky  bank  of  the  river,  and  all  around  are  little 
geysers  playing  at  intervals  from  six  to  forty  feet. 

A  plateau  opposite  the  Fan  contains  fifteen  hot 
springs  of  various  characteristics  ;  some  are  of  a 
deep  blue  color  and  have  fantastic  caverns  distinctly 
visible  below  the  surface  of  the  water.  The  open- 
ings at  the  surface  are  often  beautifully  edged  with 
delicately  wrought  rock  fiinges.  One  variety  de- 
posits a  red  or  brown  leathery  substance,  partially 
adhering  to  the  sides  and  bottom  of  the  cavern  and 
waving  to  and  fro  like  water  plants.  In  size  these 
springs  vary  fi^om  five  to  forty  feet  in  diameter. 

Two  hundred  yards  below  the  Fan  are  two  lively 


160  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONE. 

geysers  called  the  Sentinels.  The  one  on  the  righi 
bank  of  the  stream  is  in  constant  agitation,  its 
waters  revolving  horizontally  with  great  violence, 
occasionally  spouting  upward  to  the  height  of  twenty 
feet,  with  a  lateral  projection  of  fifty  feet.  Much 
steam  is  thrown  off  at  each  eruption.  The  crater  of 
this  geyser  is  three  feet  by  ten.  The  companion 
Sentinel  on  the  other  side  of  the  stream  is  smaller 
and  less  active.  At  this  point  the  river-valley  is 
narrow  and  the  stream  rapid,  with  a  considerable 
fall.  Forty  or  fifty  comparatively  unimportant  gey- 
sers and  boiling  springs  are  scattered  along  the 
narrow  valley  to  the  junction  of  Iron  Spring  Creek, 
the  lower  limit  of  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin. 

Iron  Spring  Creek,  a  stream  about  half  the  size 
of  Firehole  River,  takes  its  name  from  a  group  of 
springs  on  its  banks,  about  a  mile  south  of  the 
Giant.  Among  the  most  noticeable  of  these  is  a 
group  of  eight  beautiful  springs  enclosed  in  a  single 
rim,  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  in  length.  The 
interior  of  the  basin  is  lined  with  a  rose-colored 
deposit.  These  springs  are  situated  on  the  crest  of 
an  eminence  incrusted  with  rocky  deposits  which 
encroach  on  the  adjacent  forest,  whose  dead  and 
whitened  trunks  bear  evidence  of  the  deadly  effect 
of  the  hot  water  flowing  among  them.  On  a  con- 
iderable  mound,  at  the  junction  of  Iron  Creek  with 


UPPER    GEYSER   BASIN. 


161 


the  main  stream,  is  a  group  of  geysers  that  do  not 
differ  materially  from  those  already  described.  The 
central  member  of  the  group  is  known  as  Soda 
Geyser. 


THB  BEE-HTVX. 


CHAPTER   XIII. 

LOWER  GEYSER  BASIN. — FIREHOLE  RIVER. 

BETWEEN  the  Upper  and  Lower  Geyser  .Basm 
is  a  space  of  two  or  three  railes  entirely 
free  from  hot  springs  ;  yet  the  abundance  of  spring 
deposit  over  all  the  valley  shows  that  the  region 
was  once  the  scene  of  great  thermal  activity  ;  the 
bottom  over  which  the  river  flows  is  paved  with 
silica.  Vegetation  grows  remarkably  rank  along  the 
stream,  and  in  the  valley  where  the  crust  of  silica 
does  not  prevent  it,  the  perpetual  warmth  caused 
by  the  proximity  to  the  springs  being  very  favorable 
to  the  growth  of  plants.  The  forest  grows  close 
down  to  the  margin  of  the  river,  making  travel  very 
difficult,  and  in  one  place  the  hills  of  trachyte  almost 
close  in  the  valley. 

At  the  upper  end  of  the  basin — which  comprises 
an  area  of  about  thirty  square  miles — are  three 
large  boiling  springs,  on  the  west  margin  of  the 
river  ;  nearly  opposite  are  three  more,  and  a  short 


LOWER    GEYSER    BASIN.  163 

distaDce  below,  on  the  same  side,  four  or  five  more. 
Anywhere  else  these  springs  would  be  accounted 
marvels  ;  but  they  are  so  eclipsed  by  a  group  a  few 
rods  further  down  the  stream  that  we  can  give  them 
only  a  passing  glance.  This  group  includes  some  of 
the  grandest  hot-springs  in  the  world.  The  most 
formidable  is  near  the  margin  of  the  river.  Dr. 
Hayden  says  : 

"  It  seems  to  have  broken  out  close  by  the  river, 
and  to  have  continually  enlarged  its  orifice  by  the 
breaking  dow^n  of  its  sides.  It  evidently  com- 
menced on  the  east  side,  and  the  continual  wear  of 
the  under  side  of  the  crust  on  the  west  side  has 
caused  the  margin  to  fall  in,  until  an  aperture  at 
least  250  feet  in  diameter  has  been  formed,  with 
walls  or  sides  twenty  to  thirty  feet  high,  showing 
the  laminaB  of  deposition  perfectly.  The  water  is 
intensely  agitated  all  the  time,  boiling  like  a  caldron, 
from  which  a  vast  column  of  steam  is  ever  rising, 
filling  the  orifice.  As  the  passing  breeze  sweeps  it 
aw'ay  for  a  moment,  one  looks  aown  into  this  terrible 
seething  pit  with  terror.  All  around  the  sides  are 
large  masses  of  the  sihcious  crust  that  have  fallen 
from  the  rim.  An  immense  column  of  water  flows 
out  of  this  caldron  into  the  river.  As  it  pours  over 
the  marginal  slope,  it  descends  by  numerous  small 
channels,  with    a   large   number    of   smaller    ones 


l64  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONE 

spreading  over  a  broad  surface,  and  the  marvellous 
beauty  of  the  strikingly  vivid  coloring  far  surpasses 
anything  of  the  kind  we  have  seen  in  this  land  of 
wondrous  beauty — every  possible  shade  of  color, 
from  the  vivid  scarlet  to  a  bright  rose,  and  every 
shade  of  yellow  to  delicate  cream,  mingled  with 
vivid  green  from  minute  vegetation.  Some  of  the 
channels  were  hned  with  a  very  fine,  delicate  yellow, 
silky  material,  which  vibrates  at  every  movement  of 
the  waters.  Mr.  Thomas  Moran,  the  distinguished 
artist,  obtained  studies  of  these  beautiful  springs, 
and  from  his  well-known  reputation  as  a  colorist,  we 
look  for  a  painting  that  will  convey  some  concep- 
tion to  the  mind  of  the  exquisite  variety  of  colors 
around  this  spring.  There  was  one  most  beautiful 
funnel-shaped  spring,  twenty  feet  in  diameter  at  the 
top,  but  tapering  down,  lined  inside  and  outside  with 
the  most  delicate  decorations.  Indeed,  to  one  look- 
ing down  into  its  clear  depths,  it  seemed  like  a  fairy 
palace.  The  same  jelly-like  substance  or  pulp  to 
which  I  have  before  alluded,  covers  a  large  area  with 
the  various  shades  of  light-red  and  green.  The 
surface  yields  to  the  tread  like  a  cushion.  It  is 
about  two  inches  in  thickness,  and  although  seldom 
so  tenacious  as  to  hold  together,  yet  it  may  be  taken 
up  in  quite  large  masses,  and  when  it  becomes  dry 


LOWER    GEYSER    BASIN.  165 

it  is  blown  about  by  the  wind  like  fragments  of  va- 
riegated lichens." 

Near  this  magnificent  spring  is  a  hill  of  silica 
with  a  spring  150  feet  in  diameter  on  its  summit. 
It  is  known  as  the  Cauldron.  The  water  boils  up  in 
the  centre,  and  overflows  with  such  uniformity  on 
all  sides  as  to  form  a  succession  of  ornamental 
steps,  from  one  to  three  inches  in  height,  just  as 
water  would  freeze  in  flowing  down  a  gentle  declivity. 
It  has  the  same  transparent  clearness,  the  same 
briUiancy  of  coloring,  as  the  spring  above  described, 
but  the  hot  steam  and  the  thinness  of  the  rim  pre- 
vented an  approach  near  enough  to  observe  its 
depth,  or  ascertain  its  temperature,  except  at  one 
edge,  where  it  was  180°.  The  average  temperature 
of  twenty  of  the  springs  of  this  group  was  184°. 

About  a  mile  below  this  group,  on  the  west  side 
of  the  river,  are  four  small  lakes,  with  quiet  surfaces 
and  water  as  blue  as  the  sky.  One  of  them  is 
nearly  half  a  mile  in  length.  Their  water  is  cold  at 
the  present  time,  but  their  basins  give  indications  of 
their  having  once  been  enormous  hot  springs. 

A  mile  or  so  further  down  the  river  is  a  group  of 
a  hundred  or  more  important  springs  besides  a 
countless  number  of  unimportant  and  dead  springs, 
covering  a  space  of  nearly  a  square  mile.  Only  a 
few  of  them  can  be  specially  noticed  here.     One,  on 


166  WONDERS    OF   TEE    YELLOWSTONK 

the  right  bank  of  the  river,  is  called  the  Conch 
Spring,  from  the  resemblance  of  its  basin  to  a  shell, 
eight  feet  by  ten. 

A  Httle  below  the  Conch  Spring,  on  the  very  mar- 
gin of  the  river,  is  a  fine  geyser,  which  has  built 
for  itself  a  crater  three  feet  high,  with  a  shell  a  foot 
thick.  The  inside  of  the  crater  is  about  six  feet  in 
diameter.  The  water  is  in  constant  agitation ;  some- 
times it  will  boil  up  so  violently  as  to  throw  the  en- 
tke  mass  up  four  feet,  and  then  it  will  die  down  so 
as  to  boil  like  a  caldron.  The  water  is  perfectly 
clear,  and  the  overflow  forms  a  stream  six  inches 
wide  and  two  inches  deep,  passing  down  the  sides 
of  the  crater  and  thence  into  the  river  along  a  most 
exquisitely  decorated  channel.  The  entire  surface 
of  the  crater  is  covered  with  pearl-hke  beads,  formed 
by  the  spray.  A  section  of  the  crater  shows  it  to 
have  been  built  up  very  slowly,  in  thin  laminae.  An- 
other spring  has  a  crater  like  a  horn,  about  a  foot  in 
diameter  at  the  top  and  six  feet  at  the  base.  It  is 
called  the  Horn  Geyser.  It  is  in  constant  ebulhtion, 
and  has  the  same  ornamentations  as  the  one  just 
described.  A  spring  on  a  level  with  the  river  has 
an  enormous  square  basin,  thirty  feet  across,  of  un- 
known depth.  It  is  called  the  Bath  Spring.  A 
little  below  is  another  basin  of  wonderful  beauty, 
called  the  Cavern.     The  water  issues  from  severaJ 


LOWER    GEYSER    BASIN.  167 

apertures  beneath  the  crust  near  the  margin  of  the 
river.  The  basin  itself  is  fifteen  by  twenty  feet,  and 
twenty  feet  deep.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  trans- 
parent clearness  of  the  water  ;  the  shghtest  object 
is  reflected  in  its  clear  depths,  and  the  bright  blue 
tints  are  indescribable.  Mud  springs  are  also  nu- 
merous and  important  in  this  group.  As  usual, 
they  are  of  all  sizes,  from  an  inch  or  two  to  twenty 
or  thirty  feet  in  diameter,  with  contents  varying 
from  turbid  water  to  stiff  mud.  They  seldom  have 
any  visible  outlet,  but  are  in  constant  agitation,  with 
a  sound  which  varies  with  the  consistency  of  the 
contents  ;  several  give  off  a  suppressed  thud  as  the 
gases  burst  their  way  through  the  stiff  mortar. 
Sometimes  the  mortar  is  as  white  as  snow ;  some- 
times brown,  or  tinged  with  a  variety  of  vivid  colors. 
One  mud  spring,  located  in  the  woods  near  a  small 
lake,  northeast  of  the  Cavern,  has  a  basin  thirty  by 
forty  feet,  with  sides  fifteen  feet  high.  It  is  in  con- 
stant action,  frequently  hurling  the  mud  outside  of 
the  rim.  All  around  it  are  a  number  of  little  vents, 
which  keep  up  a  simmering  noise.  Some  of  these 
vents  have  built  up  little  cones,  from  four  to  twelve 
inches  high,  many  of  them  sealed  at  the  top.  On 
removing  the  cone,  the  inside  is  found  to  be  lined 
with  delicate  ciystals  of  sulphur,  deposited  from  the 
steam. 


168  yVO^DERS    OF    TEE    YELLOWSTONE. 

On  tlie  opposite  side  of  the  river,  along  a  little 
branch  that  flows  in  from  the  west,  is  a  consider- 
able group  of  geysers  and  boiling  springs.  Near 
the  base  of  the  mountains  is  a  first-class  boiling 
spring  with  a  curious  fungus-like  rim.  It  is  always 
in  violent  agitation,  sending  forth  great  columns  of 
steam.  It  flows  from  beneath  a  hill,  and  is  sur- 
rounded with  springs  whose  silicious  depositis  take 
the  form  of  the  toad-stool  fungus.  Some  of  this 
group  may  be  called  spasmodic  springs.  One,  with 
a  most  beautifully  scalloped  rim,  fifteen  by  twenty 
feet  in  diameter,  is  always  boiling,  and  occasionally 
explodes  with  great  violence,  shooting  its  water 
several  feet  into  the  air. 

Along  the  eastern  side  of  this  Lower  Geyser 
Basin  are  several  extensive  areas  abounding  in  mud- 
springs,  boiling  springs  and  geysers,  whose  infinite- 
ly varied  characteristics  can  have  no  more  than  the 
briefest  notice.  Beginning  at  the  north,  the  first 
that  commands  attention  is  that  whose  central  ob- 
ject of  interest  is  the  Thud  Geyser,  so  called  from 
the  peculiar  noise  it  makes  as  the  water  rises  and 
recedes.  It  is  situated  on  the  slope  of  a  small  hill, 
is  about  twenty  feet  in  diameter,  and  has  a  crater 
five  feet  wide  and  five  high,  composed  of  geyserite 
of  a  greyish  color,  full  of  deep  pockets  containing 
balls  of  the  same  material,  about  the  size  of  walnuts, 


LOWER    GEYSER    BASIN.  '  169 

each  one  cohered  with  httle  rosette-Hke  formations. 
The  column  of  water  thrown  out  by  this  geyser  dur- 
ing its  eruptions  is  very  wide,  and  reaches  the  height 
of  fifty  feet.  Near  it  was  obtained  some  pieces  of 
wood,  coated  with  geyserite  of  a  dehcate  pink  tinge  : 
the  sihca  had  thoroughly  penetrated  the  woody 
fibre.  There  were  found,  also,  pine-cones  coated  in 
the  same  manner,  forming  beautiful  specimens.  A 
few  yards  back  of  the  geyser  are  three  large  mud- 
springs,  in  one  of  which  the  mud  is  red,  in  another 
white,  and  in  the  third  pink — the  jets  of  steam  caus- 
ing the  mud  to  assume  the  furm  of  small  conical 
points  throughout  the  basins.  They  are  situated  in 
a  bed  of  clay,  the  red  color  being  due  to  iron.  Be- 
low these  latter  are  some  chalybeate  springs  whose 
bright-red  iron  deposit  have  spread  over  a  consi- 
derable area,  in  glaring  contrast  with  the  white  color 
of  the  silicious  deposits  of  their  neighbors. 

In  the  same  group  is  a  fissure  spring  forty  feet 
long,  four  feet  wdde  and  ten  deep,  clear  as  crystal ; 
also  a  large  basin  nearly  circular,  fifty  feet  in  dia- 
meter with  a  number  of  huge  apertures,  some  of 
which  throw  up  water  thirty  feet.  One  orifice 
shoots  a  constant  stream  six  feet  high.  All  around 
this  geyser-group  are  smaller  springs  continually 
bubbhng,  and  large  numbers  of  small  geysers,  some 
eonstantly  playing  to  heights  not  exceeding  ten  feet, 


170  WONDERS    OF   TEE    YELLOWSTONK 

while  others  merely  keep  up  a  violent  ebullition, 
rising  and  falling  with  a  pulsating  motion.  There 
is  also  one  beautiful  quiet  spring,  with  a  basin  so 
large  that  it  looks  like  a  small  lake.  Into  its  cleai 
depths  one  may  look  down  thirty  or  forty  feet,  be- 
holding a  fairy-like  palace  adorned  with  more  bril- 
liant colors  than  any  structure  made  by  human 
hands.  The  aggregate  waters  of  the  group  form  a 
httle  stream  which  flows  westward  into  the  small 
lake  akeady  noticed  in  connection  with  the  mud- 
springs  at  the  lower  end  of  the  basin. 

South  of  the  Thud  Geyser  is  a  large  basin  150  feet 
in  diameter,  enclosing  a  crater  twenty-five  feet  in 
diameter.  From  the  inner  crater  the  water  is 
thrown  up  in  a  vast  column  sixty  feet  high,  falling 
back  in  silver-white  globules,  a  natural  fountain  ol 
marvellous  beauty.  A  short  distance  south  of  this 
Fountain  Geyser  is  the  most  remarkable  mud-pot 
in  the  Firehole  valley.  Its  surface,  forty  by  sixty 
feet  in  diameter,  is  covered  with  large  puffs,  which, 
in  exploding  with  suppressed  thuds,  throw  the  hot 
mud  several  feet  into  the  air  and  spatter  the  broad 
rounded  rim  in  every  direction.  The  mud  is  an  im- 
palpable silicious  clay,  of  every  shade  of  color 
from  the  purest  white  to  a  bright  pink.  Within  a 
few  feet  of  this  mud-spiing  is  a  large  clear  spring 
sixty  feet  across,  with  perhaps  fifty  centres  of  ebul- 


LOWER    GEYSER    BASIN.  171 

lition.  It  is  filled  with  the  rusty,  leathery  dej-osit 
already  described,  and  all  around  the  basin  Avhere 
the  waters  overflow  is  an  extensive  deposit  of  iron. 

A  quarter  of  a  mile  east  of  the  mud-springs,  at 
the  northwestern  base  of  a  mountain-spur  and  ex- 
tending a  thousand  yards  up  a  ravine,  is  a  group  of 
springs  occupying  a  space  five  hundred  yards  wide. 
One  of  these,  the  Fissure  Spring,  is  a  hundred  feet 
long  and  from  four  to  ten  feet  wide.  Quite  a  large 
stream  flows  from  this  spring.  Many  of  the  sur- 
rounding springs  remain  full  to  the  rim,  and  are  in 
constant  ebullition,  yet  no  water  flows  from  them. 
Others  discharge  great  quantities  of  water.  In  this 
group  are  three  sulphur  springs,  the  only  ones  in 
the  region  :  the  sulphur  present  however  is  not  very 
abundant.  Sihca  and  iron  seem  to  be  the  dominant 
constituents  of  nearly  all  the  deposits.  Some  of  the 
springs  send  forth  a  disagreeable  odor,  and  deposit 
a  curious  black  sediment  hke  fine  gunpowder. 
Near  the  centre  of  the  group  is  a  small  lake  600  feet 
long  and  150  wide.  By  its  eastern  shore  is  a 
geyser  which  spouts  very  regularly  to  the  height  of 
fifteen  or  twenty  feet.  West  of  the  lake  are  two 
small  geysers  cones  incrusted  with  a  cauliflovver- 
Uke  formation ;  near  them  in  a  fissure  are  balls  oi 
geyserite  coated  in  the  same  manner. 

A   thousand   yards   further   south,  in   the  south- 


172  WONDERS    OF   THE  YELLOWSTONE, 

eastern  corner  of  the  basin,  is  a  ravine  a  mile  and  a 
half  long  and  three  hundred  yards  wide,  occupied 
by  a  most  interesting  group  of  springs  and  geysers 
Judt  below  the  mouth  of  the  ravine,  on  a  mound  fif- 
teen feet  high,  is  a  large  cone  twenty-five  feet  high, 
probably  a  geyser.  Steam  issues  steadily  from  the 
top  with  the  sound  of  a   high-pressure  engine.     It 

is  called  the  White  Dome  Geyser. 

In  this  lower  basin  there  are  very  few  raised  cra- 
ters, the  most  of  the  springs  and  geysers  having 
funnel-shaped  basins,  with  rims  of  various  forms, 
but  mostly  circular.  In  this  group  there  is  besides 
the  White  Dome  a  small  cone  with  its  top  broken 
off.  It  is  four  feet  in  diameter,  with  an  aperture 
eighteen  inches  across.  It  is  called  the  Beehive, 
For  several  feet  around  on  all  sides  the  surface  of 
the  ground  is  ornamented  with  pearly  tubercles  of 
silica,  from  the  size  of  a  pea  to  three  inches  in  diam- 
eter. The  spring  basins  in  this  group  have  every 
variety  of  form.  One,  a  fine  boiling  spring,  has  an 
oval  rim  five  feet  by  eight,  its  sides  running  straight 
down  bevond  the  reach  of  vision.  Another  is 
funnel-shaped,  tapering  to  a  narrow  aperture,  with 
a  scalloped  rim,  projecting  several  inches  over  the 
water.  Some  springs  discharge  no  water ;  others 
send  forth  a  sti'eam  two  feet  wide  and  six  inches 
deep.     In  one  of  the  streams,  the  channel  of  which 


UP  PEE    GEYSER  BASIN.  I73 

is  about  two  feet  wide  and  one  foot  deep,  the  watei 
is  filled  with  a  plant  with  a  pinkish-yellow  base, 
bordered  with  a  very  fine  green  silky  fringe,  per- 
petually vibrating  with  the  flowing  waters.  "  Ex- 
cept that  they  were  a  rich  vegetable  green,  these 
fringes  had  the  form  and  texture  of  the  finest  cash- 
mere wool.  The  luxuriant  growth  of  vegetation  in 
and  along  the  borders  of  these  little  streams,"  adds 
Dr.  Hayden,  "  was  a  wonder  of  beauty.  The  whole 
view  was  there  superior  to  anything  of  the  kind  E 
had  seen." 

In  some  of  the  springs  Dr.  Hayden's  assistants 
found  butterflies  which  had  fallen  in  and  been 
scalded  to  death.  On  taking  them  out  they  were 
found  to  be  partially  petrified,  and  coated  with 
silica. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  ravine  is  the  principal  gey- 
ser of  the  group.  Its  basin  is  circular  and  about  60 
feet  in  diameter,  although  the  spring  itself,  which  is 
in  the  centre,  is  only  about  15  or  20  feet  in  diameter. 
The  incrusted  margin  is  full  of  sinuses,  filled  with 
hot  water,  which  falls  into  them  whenever  the  gey- 
ser is  in  operation.  These  pockets  contain  also 
smooth  pebbles  of  geyserite,  varying  in  size  from 
that  of  a  pea  to  a  large-sized  walnut,  rounded  by 
the  action  of  the  water.  The  water  in  the  spring  of 
the  geyser  is  of  a  blue  color  and  in  constant  agitation. 


174  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONK 

though  more  violently  so  just  before  spouting.  The 
column  of  water  projected  reaches  the  height  of  100 
feet,  and  is  accompanied  by  immense  clouds  ol 
steam. 

Not  far  from  this  geyser  is  an  elegantly  scallop- 
ed spring,  nearly  circular,  twenty-five  feet  in  diam- 
ter,  and  with  vertical  sides  to  an  unknown  depth. 
The  entire  mass  of  the  water  is  most  violently 
agitated  at  times,  and,  overflowing  the  sides  of  the 
basin,  passes  off  in  terrace  pools  or  reservoirs  to  the 
main  stream,  producing  a  system  of  architecture  out 
of  silica  similar  to  that  of  the  calcareous  springs  on 
Gardiner's  River.  The  gay  colors,  from  bright 
pink  to  delicate  rose,  are  well  shown. 

The  valley  is  filled  with  springs  up  to  its  very 
source;  and  springs  which  burst  from  the  mountain 
side,  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  basin, 
have  temperatures  ranging  from  166°  to  180°. 
Tracing  one  exceptionally  cool  stream  up  the 
south  side  of  the  canon,  Dr.  Hayden  found  on  the 
almost  vertical  side  of  the  mountain  a  little 
spring  so  imbedded  in  bright  green  moss  that  it 
could  hardly  be  seen. 

"  With  great  difficulty,"  he  says,  "  we  managed  to 
climb  up  the  mountain  side,  and,  clearing  away  the 
moss,  obtained  the  first  water  that  we  could  drink  for 
eight  hours.     In  all  of  our  examination  during  the 


UPPER    GEYSER    BASIN.  I75 

day  we  bad  not  found  a  drop  of  water  of  sufficient- 
ly low  temperature  to  take  into  our  mouths,  though 
there  were  hundreds  of  the  most  beautiful  springs 
all  around  us.  We  were  like  Coleridge's  mariner  in 
the  great  ocean,  "  Water,  water  everywhere,  but  not 
a  drop  to  drink." 

Looking  back  over  the  valley  the  morning  before 
his  departure  for  the  Upper  Basin,  Dr.  Hayden  saw 
it  literally  filled  with  columns  of  steam,  ascending 
from  more  than  a  thousand  vents.  "  I  can  compare 
the  view,"  he  writes,  "  to  nothing  but  that  of  some 
manufacturing  city  hke  Pittsburgh,  as  seen  from  a 
high  point,  except  that  instead  of  the  black  coal 
smoke,  there  are  here  the  white  dehcate  clouds  of 
steam.  Small  groups  or  soKtary  springs  that  are 
scattered  everywhere  in  the  woods,  upon  the  moun- 
tain-sides, and  which  would  otherwise  escape  obser- 
vation, are  detected  by  the  columns  of  steam.  It  is 
evident  that  some  of  these  groups  of  springs  have 
changed  their  base  of  operations  within  a  compara- 
tively recent  period  ;  for  about  midway  on  the  east 
side  of  the  lower  basin  there  is  a  large  area  covered 
with  a  thick,  apparently  modern,  deposit  of  the  sili- 
ca, as  white  as  snow,  while  standing  quite  thickly  all 
around  are  dead  pines,  which  appear  to  have  been 
destroyed  by  the  excessive  overflow  of  water  and 
the  increased  deposition.     These  dry  trees  have  a 


176  WONDERS   OF   TEE   YELLOWSTONE. 

most  desolate  look  ;  many  of  tliem  have  fallen  down 
and  are  incrusted  witli  tbe  silica,  while  portions  that 
have  fallen  into  the  boiling  springs  have  been  re- 
duced to  pulp.  This  seems  to  be  one  of  the  con- 
ditions of  silicification,  for  when  these  pulpy  masses 
of  wood  are  permitted  to  dry  by  the  cessation  of 
the  springs,  the  most  perfect  specimens  of  petrified 
wood  are  the  result.  In  one  instance  a  green  pine- 
tree  had  fallen  so  as  to  immerse  its  thick  top  in  a 
large  hot  basin,  and  leaves,  twigs,  and  cones  had 
become  completely  incrusted  with  the  white  silica, 
and  a  portion  had  entered  into  the  cellular  structure, 
so  that  when  removed  from  the  water,  and  dried  in 
the  sun,  very  fair  specimens  were  obtained.  Mem- 
bers of  my  party  obtained  specimens  of  pine  cones 
that  were  suflS.ciently  silicified  to  be  packed  away 
among  the  collections." 

Grasshoppers,  and  even  butterflies,  as  we  have 
seen,  are  occasionally  subjected  to  the  same  treat- 
ment, with  the  same  result.  By-and-by,  when  the 
geyser  regions  become  a  popular  resort,  the  prepa- 
ration of  petrifactions  to  be  carried  away  as  me- 
mentos, may  become  quite  an  item  of  entertain- 
ment if  not  of  industry. 

To  obtain  a  complete  view  of  the  Lower  Geyser 
Basin,  Colonel  Barlow  made  a  trip  to  the  summit  o/ 
the  Twin  Buttes  on  the  west  side  of   the  basin. 


UPPER     GEYSER    BASIN.  I77 

From  this  point  the  valley  of  Firehole  River  could 
be  overlooked  for  a  distance  of  twenty  miles ;  but 
nothing  new  was  discovered  except  an  attractive 
fall  plunging  over  a  precipice  a  short  distance  to  the 
south. 

After  much  severe  climbing  over  rocky  ridges,  and 
scrambling  through  deep  and  thickly  wooded  ra- 
vines, he  succeeded  in  reaching  the  foot  of  the  fall — 
the  loveliest  vision  he  had  ever  beheld.  "  Towering 
above  my  head,"  he  writes,  "  was  a  perpendicular 
cliff,  three  hundred  feet  high,  while  from  a  slight 
depression  in  its  upper  edge  descended  a  sparkling 
stream,  dashed  into  spray  as  it  impinged  against 
projecting  angles  of  the  rocky  wall.  On  reaching 
the  bottom  the  mist  is  gathered  into  a  shallow  basin, 
forming  a  pool  of  clear  cold  water,  delightfully  re- 
freshing in  this  region  of  steaming  geysers  and  vol- 
canic heat.  After  resting  a  moment  in  this  quiet 
retreat,  the  water  slowly  finds  its  way  through  the 
forest,  and  crossing  the  geyser  valley  eventually 
reaches  Firehole  River,  some  two  miles  distant." 

From  the  marshy  ground  about  the  fall  the  pines 
shoot  upward  to  an  astonishing  altitude,  as  though 
ambitious  to  overtop  the  cliff.  Colonel  Barlow 
approached  the  fall  through  a  natural  a\enue  in 
these  pines,  and  as  he  caught  sight  of  its  dancing 
wa^er,  leaping  with  life-like  action  down  the  face 


178  WONBEES    OF   THE    TELLOWtiTONE 

of  the  overhanging  cHff,  the  thought  of  fairies  waa 
so  strongly  suggested  that  he  could  think  of  no 
name  so  appropriate  as  the  Fall  of  the  Fairies. 

The  extreme  north  of  the  Lower  Basin  is  bounded 
bj  the  East  Fork  of  Madison  River,  along  whose 
valley,  within  the  basin  and  above  it,  are  numerous 
groups  of  interesting  springs,  though  not  materi- 
ally different  from  those  already  described.  Near 
the  head  of  the  stream  sulphur  springs  are  abund- 
ant, with  here  and  there  extensive  deposits  of  sul- 
phur. Steam-vents  are  frequent,  their  orifices 
hned  with  sulphur,  and  the  surrounding  crust  filled 
with  crystals  of  a  vivid  yellow.  The  channels  of 
the  streams  are  lined  with  a  delicate  veil  of  creamy 
sulphur.  In  some  of  the  springs,  lower  down  the 
stream,  iron  predominates.  Within  the  basin  on 
the  south  side  of  the  East  Fork  are  a  hundred 
springs  or  more,  any  one  of  which,  if  alone,  would 
be  worthy  of  elaborate  description.  In  some  the 
fallen  leaves  of  trees  are  frosted  with  silica  as 
white  as  snow,  and  the  inner  surface  of  the  basins 
lire  covered  with  a  delicate  bead-like  embroidery  of 
marvellous  beauty.  The  most  beautiful  of  the  group 
is  a  Prismatic  Spring,  like  those  described  in  the 
Upper  Basin.  "  Nothing  ever  conceived  by  human 
art,"  says  Dr.  Hayden,  "  could  equal  the  pecuHai 
vividness  and  delicacy  of  coloring  of  these  remark- 


AROUND    YELLOWSTONE  LAKE  I79 

able  prismatic  springs."  About  a  mile  south  of  the  . 
East  Fork,  at  the  head  of  a  little  stream  that  flows 
into  the  Firehole,  is  another  of  these  brilliant  springs. 
A  thin,  delicately  ornamental  rim  of  siHca  surrounds 
a  basin  six  feet  in  diameter,  filled  to  the  brim  with 
water  of  marvellous  transparency.  When  its  sur- 
face is  rippled  by  a  passing  breeze,  the  reflected 
sunlight  is  broken  as  by  a  million  prisms.  It  ia 
sailed  the  Eainbow  Spring. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

NATURAL   HISTORY   OF   GEYSERS   AND   OTHER  THERMAL 

SPRINGS. 

IN  Icelandic  speech  the  word  geyser  means  sim- 
ply rager,  and  is  applied  indiscriminately  to  all 
turbulent  fountains  of  water  or  mud.  The  most 
violent  and  nois}^  "  rager  "  on  the  island  being  the 
great  intermittent  spouting  spring  near  Haukadal,  it 
naturally  gained  for  itself  the  title,  The  Geyser  ; 
and  being  the  earUest  known  and  most  remarkable 
fountain  of  the  kind,  its  native  common  name  was 
adopted  in  other  languages  as  the  generic  name  for 
all  springs  of  its  class. 

The  history  of  this  great,  but  no  longer  the  great- 
est geyser,  begins  in  the  early  part  of  the  fifteenth 
century,  when  its  eruptions  are  mentioned  in  Ice- 
landic records.  In  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth 
century  the  Bishop  of  Skalholt  noticed  its  daily  dis- 
charges. A  hundred  years  later  Olafsen  and  Povel- 
sen  described  it  as  having  three  or  four  eruptions  a 
day,  some  of  them  attaining  the  height  of  300  feet, 


NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  GEYSFJRS.  132 

including,  doubtless,  the  uprush  of  vapor.  The 
depth  of  its  tube  was  then  72  feet ;  now  it  is  com- 
monly given  as  74,  though  Commander  Forbes, 
R.  N.,  claims  that  it  is  not  so  deep  by  ten  feet.  In 
1774  Von  Troil  estimated  the  height  of  the  ejected 
column  at  92  feet.  Seventeen  years  later,  Stanley 
gave  96  feet  as  its  greatest  height.  Forty  yards 
west  of  the  Geyser  this  traveller  found  a  rival, 
called  the  Strokr,  (in  English,  the  Churn,)  playing 
to  the  height  of  130  feet.  The  same  year,  1789,  an 
earthquake  destroyed  the  mechanism  of  the  Strokr, 
converting  it  into  a  quiet  reservoir  of  boiling  water, 
whereupon  its  name  was  transferred  to  the  present 
Strokr,  which  then  became  especially  active  and 
noisy.  In  1804  the  Geyser  had  regained  somewhat 
of  its  ancient  power,  erupting  every  six  hours  to  the 
height  of  200  feet ;  and  the  original  Strokr  had  re- 
paired its  tube  so  that  it  could  hft  a  column  to  nearly 
the  same  height  and  sustain  it  for  a  much  longer 
period.  During  the  next  five  years  the  power  of  the 
Geyser  fell  off  a  haK,  and  its  paroxysms  became 
much  less  frequent — Hooker  estimating  its  column, 
in  1809,  at  100  feet,  and  Mackenzie,  a  year  later,  at 
90  feet,  its  eruptions  taking  place  every  thirty  hours. 
At  the  same  time  the  Strokr  played  every  ten  01 
twelve  hours,  sixty  feet  high,  for  the  space  of  thirty 
minutes.     In  1815  the  periods  had  changed  again. 


182  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONK 

the  Geyser  erupting  every  six  hours,  to  an  average 
height  of  80  feet, — the  jets  occasionally  reaching 
150  feet,  while  the  Strokr  had  prolonged  its  quiet 
intervals  to  twenty-four  hours.  Of  late  years  the 
Geyser'a  vr'olent  eruptions  seldom  occur  oftener  than 
once  in  thirty  hours,  and  do  not  exceed  100  feet  in 
altitude,  and  generally  averaging  70  or  80  feet.  Be- 
tween these  eruptions  are  usually  two  minor  spirts, 
attaining  from  30  to  50  feet.  The  Strokr  is  exceed- 
ingly irregular  in  its  operation,  and  generally  re- 
quires a  dose  of  turf  to  bring  on  an  exhibition. 

A  grand  eruption  of  the  Geyser  has  been  admir- 
ably described  by  Commander  Forbes. 

"  Twice  during  the  night,"  he  says,  "  I  was 
aroused  by  the  unearthly  complaints  of  The  Geyser 
but  beyond  the  vast  clouds  of  vapor  which  invari- 
ably follow  each  detonation,  and  a  gentle  overflow- 
ing of  the  basin,  they  were  false  alarms.  As  morning 
was  breaking  it  sounded  an  unmistakable  '  reveille,' 
which  would  have  roused  the  dead :  and  I  had 
barely  time  to  take  up  my  position  at  the  brink  of 
the  old  *  Strokr '  before  full  power  was  turned  on. 
Jet  succeeded  jet  with  fearful  rapidity,  earth  trem- 
bled and  the  very  cone  itself  seemed  to  stagger  under 
the  ordeal.  Portions  of  its  sides,  rent  with  the  un- 
controllable fury  it  had  suddenly  generated,  were 
ripped  off  and  flew  up  in  volleys,  soaring  high  above 


NATURAL    HISTORY   OF   0ETSER8.  183 

water  and  steam,  whilst  the  latter  rolled  away  io 
fleecy  clouds  before  the  Hght  north  wind,  and  catch- 
ing the  rays  of  the  morning  snn  just  ghstening  over 
the  Jokul  tops  in  the  East,  was  lustrous  white  as  the 
purest  snow.  Discharge  succeeded  discharge  in 
rapid  succession  for  upwards  of  four  minutes,  when, 
apparently  exhausted  and  its  basin  empty,  I  scram- 
bled up  to  the  margin,  intending  to  have  a  good  look 
down  the  tube,  which  I  imagined  must  also  be 
empty ;  but  the  water  was  still  within  a  few  feet  of 
the  brink,  and  boiling  furiously.  Hastening  back  to 
my  former  position,  the  basin  filled  rapidly,  and  I 
was  just  in  time  to  witness  the  most  magnificent  ex- 
plosion of  aU.  Everything  seemed  to  depend  on 
this  superhuman  effort,  and  a  solid,  unbroken  co- 
lumn of  water  twenty-five  feet  in  circumference, 
was  hurled  upwards,  attaining  an  altitude  very 
near  100  feet.  Here  the  column  paused  for  a  mo- 
ment before  reversing  its  motion,  then  fell  Hstless 
and  exhausted  through  the  volumes  which  followed 
it  into  its  throbbing  cup,  again  to  undergo  its  fiery 
ordeal  at  the  threshold  of  the  infernal  regions." 

Grand  as  this  display  must  have  been,  it  was  but 
a  momentary  spasm,  a  feeble  effort  compared  with 
the  terrific  force  which  sustains  the  Giant's  river- 
volume,  with  a  steady  up-rush  two  hundi'ed  feet 
high,   for   the   space  of  three  hours   and   a    half. 


184  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONK 

There  are  many,  perhaps  scores,  of  geysers  in  the 
Firehole  Basin,  which — even  in  midsummer,  when 
their  action  is  weakest — far  surpass  the  glory  of 
Iceland. 

But  what  is  the  origin  of  the  power  that  sustains 
these  wonderful  eruptions  ?  And  what  is  the  cause 
of  its  intermittent  action?  Fortunately  these 
questions  are  not  only  answerable,  but  the  answers 
are  susceptible  of  demonstration,  as  Professor  Tyn- 
dall  has  shown  in  his  admirable  lectures  on  heat 
considered  as  a  mode  of  motion,  wherein  he  gives 
the  following  lucid  description  of  the  mechanism 
and  development  of  the  Great  Geyser  of  Iceland  : 
in  principle  the  description  applies  equally  to  the 
geysers  of  Firehole  Basin,  and  all  other  springs  of 
the  kind. 

"  It  consists  of  a  tube  seventy-four  feet  deep  and 
ten  feet  in  diameter.  The  tube  is  surmounted  by  a 
basin  which  measures  from  north  to  south  fifty-two 
feet  across,  and  from  east  to  west  sixty  feet.  The 
interior  of  the  tube  and  basin  is  coated  with  a  beau- 
tiful smooth  silicious  plaster,  so  hard  as  to  resist 
the  blows  of  a  hammer ;  and  the  first  question  is, 
how  was  this  wonderful  tube  constructed — how  was 
this  perfect  plaster  laid  on?  Chemical  analysis 
shows  that  the  water  holds  silica  in  solution,  and 
the  conjecture  might  therefore  arise  that  the  water 


NATURAL    HISTORY    OF    GEYSEES.  185 

had  deposited  tlie  si  ica  against  the  sides  of  the  tube 
and  basin.  But  tliis  is  not  the  case  :  the  water  de- 
posits no  sediment ;  no  matter  how  long  it  may  be 
kept,  no  solid  substance  is  separated  from  it.  It 
may  be  bottled  up  and  preserved  for  years  as  clear 
as  crystal,  without  showing  the  shghtest  tendency 
to  form  a  precipitate.  To  answer  the  question  in 
this  way  would  moreover  assume  that  the  shaft  was 
formed  by  some  foreign  agency,  and  that  the  water 
merely  lined  it.  The  geyser  basin,  however,  rests 
upon  the  summit  of  a  mound  about  forty  feet  high, 
and  it  is  evident  from  mere  inspection  that  the 
mound  has  been  deposited  by  the  geyser.  But  in 
building  up  this  mound  the  spring  must  have  formed 
the  tube  which  perforates  the  mound,  and  hence 
the  conclusion  that  the  geyser  is  the  architect  of  its 

own  tube. 

If  we  place  a  quantity  of  geyser  water  in  an  eva- 
porating basin  the  following  takes  place  :  in  the 
centre  of  the  basin  the  Hquid  deposits  nothing,  but 
at  the  sides  where  it  is  drawn  up  by  capillary  at- 
traction, and  thus  subjected  to  speedy  evaporation, 
we  find  silica  deposited.  Bound  the  edge  a  ring  of 
silica  is  laid  on,  and  not  until  the  evaporation  has 
continued  a  considerable  time  do  we  find  the  shght- 
est turbidity  in  the  middle  of  the  water.  This  experi- 
ment is  the  microscopic  representative  of  what  oc 


186  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONE. 

curs  Id  Iceland.  Imagine  the  case  of  a  simple 
thermal  siUcious  spring,  whose  waters  trickle  down 
a  gentle  inclosure  ;  the  water  thus  exposed  evapor- 
ates speedily,  and  silica  is  deposited.  This  deposit 
gradually  elevates  the  side  over  which  the  water 
passes  until  finally  the  latter  has  to  take  another 
course.  The  same  takes  place  here,  the  ground  is 
elevated  as  before,  and  the  spring  has  to  move  for- 
ward. Thus  it  is  compelled  to  travel  round  and 
round,  discharging  its  silica  and  deepening  the  shaft 
in  which  it  dwells,  until  finally,  in  the  course  of  ages, 
the  simple  spring  has  produced  this  wonderful  ap- 
paratus which  has  so  long  puzzled  and  astonished 
both  the  traveller  and  the  philosopher." 

The  time  required  for  the  construction  of  the 
Great  Geyser  tube  has  been  estimated  by  Com- 
mander Forbes  as  ten  or  eleven  centuries,  on  the 
following  grounds  :  a  bunch  of  grass,  placed  under 
a  little  fall  made  by  the  ejected  water,  receives,  in 
twenty-four  hours,  a  coating  of  siHca  the  thickness 
of  a  thijQ  sheet  of  paper,  or  about  one  five-hundredth 
part  of  an  inch.  At  this  rate  it  would  take  1036 
jeii^R  to  build  up  the  762  inches,  which,  according 
to  his  measurement,  is  the  depth  of  the  tube.  In 
evidence  ol  the  probable  truth  of  this  estimate  he 
makes  note  of  the  following  facts  :  first,  there  is  no 
notice  of  thw  fountain  in  the  early  history  of  the  colo- 


NATURAL    HISTOKY   OF   GEYSERS,  187 

aization  of  the  island  986  years  ago,  at  which  time 
the  tube  would  have  been  only  three  feet  deep,  and 
its  eruptions  too  slight  to  attract  attention  ;  second, 
436  years  afterwards,  when  the  tube  would  have 
been  twenty-six  feet  deep,  and  the  eruptions  propor- 
tionately important,  the  Geyser  is  mentioned  ;  third, 
accurate  records  of  aD  occurrences  were  kept  by  the 
early  inhabitants,  and  if  so  remarkable  a  phenome- 
non had  existed  at  the  time,  it  could  not  have  been 
left  unnoticed. 

The  phenomena  attending  a  g6yser-eruption — the 
filling  of  the  basin  with  water,  the  agitation  of  the 
warer,  with  deafening  detonations,  the  escape  of 
steam,  and  so  on — have  been  sufficiently  described 
in  the  preceding  chapters.  Their  causes  have  been 
ingeniously  explained  by  Professor  Bunsen,  who 
succeeded  in  determining  the  temperature  of  the 
geyser-tube,  throughout  its  entire  length,  a  few  min- 
utes before  an  eruption.  The  annexed  diagram 
shows  on  the  left  the  observed  temperatures  of  the 
water  at  different  depths,  and  on  the  right  the  tem- 
peratures at  which  water  would  boil,  taking  into  ac- 
count the  pressure  of  the  atmosphere  increased  by 
the  presence  of  the  superincumbent  column  of  water. 
The  degrees  have  been  changed  from  Centigrade  to 
our  familiar  Fahrenheit  standard,  disregarding  frac- 
tious. 


188 


WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONK 


Observed  Temperature.  Boiliug  Temperator*. 

A       I....225- 


186°. 


230= 


251°. 


255°.    . 


259°. . 


10  feet. 


B 


241« 


.249<» 
.255« 


..266» 


.278^ 


It  will  be  observed  that  in  no  part  of  the  tube 
does  the  water  reach  the  boiling  point.  The  nearest 
approach  to  it  is  at  A,  thirty  feet  from  the  bottom  ; 
Dut  even  here  the  water  is  some  four  degrees  below 
the  temperature  at  which  it  could  boil.  How  then  is 
an  eruption  possible  ? 

Professor  Tyndall's  explanation  is  in  substance 
this  :  Suppose  that  by  the  entrance  of  steam  from 
the  ducts  near  the  bottom  of  the  tube  the  geyser 
column  is  elevated  six  feet,  a  height  quite  within  the 
limits  of  actual  observation ;  the  water  at  A  is  there- 


NATURAL   HISTORY    OF   GETSEtCS.  189 

by  tiansf erred  to  B.  Its  boiling  point  at  A  is  255°, 
and  its  actual  temperature  is  251°;  but  at  B  its 
boiling  point  is  only  249°,  hence  wlien  transferred 
from  A  to  B,  the  heat  which  it  possesses  is  in  excess 
of  that  necessary  to  make  it  boil.  This  excess  of 
heat  is  instantly  applied  to  the  generation  of  steam  ; 
the  column  is  thus  lifted  higher,  and  the  water  be- 
low is  relieved  of  pressure,  and  its  boiling  point 
lowered.  More  steam  is  generated  ;  this  lifts  the 
column  still  higher,  and  compels  the  generation  of 
more  and  more  steam,  until  the  whole  upper  portion 
of  the  column  bursts  into  ebulhtion,  and  the  water, 
mixed  with  steam-clouds,  is  projected  into  the  at- 
mosphere, and  we  have  the  geyser  eruption  in  all 
its  grandeur. 

One  confirmation  of  this  theory  of  Bunsen's  is 
that  small  stones  suspended  in  the  lower  part  of 
the  geyser-tube  are  not  thrown  out  during  an  erup- 
tion;  and  a  stronger  confirmation  lies  in  the  fact 
that  all  the  peculiarities  of  geyser  action  can  be 
imitated.  Professor  Tyndall  uses  for  this  purpose 
an  apparatus  consisting  of  a  tube  of  iron  six  feet 
long,  surmounted  by  a  basin,  and  heated  by  fires 
underneath.  To  imitate,  as  far  as  possible,  the  con- 
ditions of  the  geyser,  he  encircles  the  tube  with  a 
second  fire,  two  feet  from  the  bottom.  As  the  water 
in  the  tube  becomes  heated,  the  phenomena  of  goy- 


190  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONK 

Ber  eruption  are  repeated  in  miniature  with  beautiful 
regularity.  By  stopping  tlie  moutii  of  the  tube  with 
a  cork,  the  enforced  explosions  of  the  Strokr  are  re- 
produced ;  and  by  similar  simple  devices  the  action 
of  all  other  eruptive  springs  may  be  accurately  imi- 
tated. 

All  through  the  Firehole  Basin  and  around  Yel- 
lowstone Lake  are  many  extinct  geysers  ;  sometimes, 
as  in  the  case  of  Old  Faithful,  an  active  geyser  is 
surrounded  by  a  number  of  deserted  cones,  the  re- 
mains of  ancient  "  roarers."  What  occasions  theh 
decline  ?  Earthquakes  may,  and  no  doubt  frequently 
do,  derange  their  mechanism,  as  observed  in  the  old 
Strokr.  But  most  of  them  probably  die  a  natural 
death,  from  old  age  and  decrepitude. 

"  A  moment's  reflection,"  says  Professor  Tyndall, 
"  will  suggest  that  there  must  be  a  limit  to  the  oper- 
ations of  the  geyser.  When  the  tube  has  reached 
such  an  altitude  that  the  water  in  the  depths  below, 
owing  to  the  increased  pressure,  cannot  attain  its 
boiling  point,  the  eruptions  of  necessity  cease.  The 
spring,  however,  continues  to  deposit  its  silica,  and 
often  forms  a  Laug,  or  cistern.  Some  of  these,  in 
Iceland,  are  forty  feet  deep.  Their  beauty,  accord- 
ing to  Bunsen,  is  indescribable.  Over  the  surface 
curls  a  light  vapor ;  the  water  is  of  the  purest  azure, 
and  tints  with  its  lovely  hue  the  fantastic  incrust- 


NATURAL    BISTORT    OF   GEFISERS.  191 

ations  on  the  cistern  walls ;  while  at  the  bottom  is 
often  seen  the  mouth  of  the  once  mighty  geyser. 
There  are  in  Iceland  vast,  but  now  extinct  geyser 
operations.  Mounds  are  observed  whose  shafts  are 
filled  with  rubbish,  the  water  having  forced  a  pas- 
sage underneath  and  retired  to  other  scenes  of  ac- 
tion. "We  have,  in  fact,  the  geyser  in  its  youth, 
manhood,  old  age,  and  death  here  presented  to  us. 
In  its  youth  as  a  simple  thermal  spring  ;  in  its  man- 
hood, as  an  eruptive  column ;  in  its  old  age,  as  the 
tranquil  Laug ;  while  its  death  is  recorded  by  the 
ruined  shaft  and  mound,  which  testify  the  fact  of  its 
once  active  existence." 

All  that  Professor  Tyndall  describes  so  eloquently 
of  Iceland,  exists  in  our  Grand  National  Park  in  in- 
finitely greater  variety,  and  magnitude,  and  splen- 
dor. And  much  more  :  Iceland  has  no  Gardiner's 
River.  To  find  the  nearest  approach  to  the  marvels 
of  White  Mountain  Hot  Spring,  we  must  go  to  the 
opposite  side  of  the  globe — to  New  Zealand.  In 
the  celebrated  Lake  District  of  the  North  Island  is 
a  region  of  hot  springs,  far  exceeding  in  extent  and 
variety  ail  the  others  in  the  world,  save  those  of  the 
Yellowstone.  First  of  all,  says  Hochstetter,  the 
most  marvellous  of  the  Rotomahana  marvels  is 
the  Te  Tarata — the  Tattooed  Rock — with  its  ter- 
raced marble  steps  projecting  into  the  lake.     The 


192  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONE. 

spring  lies  about  eighty  feet  above  the  lake,  on  a 
fern-clad  hill-slope,  in  a  crater-like  excavation,  with 
steep  reddish  sides,  from  thirty  to  forty  feet  high, 
and  open  only  toward  the  lake.  The  basin  of  the 
spring  is  about  eighty  feet  long  and  sixty  wide,  filled 
to  the  brim  with  perfectly  transparent  water,  which 
in  its  snow-white  basin  appears  of  a  beautiful  blue, 
like  the  blue  turquoise.  Immense  clouds  of  steam 
curl  up  fi'om  the  surface,  obstructing  the  view,  but 
the  noise  of  boiling  and  seething  is  always  audible. 
The  water  is  slightly  salt,  but  not  unpleasant  to  the 
taste,  chemically  neutral,  and  possesses  petrifying, 
or  rather  incrusting  quaHties,  in  a  high  degree. 
The  deposit  is  silicious,  like  that  of  the  Iceland 
springs  and  the  springs  around  Yellowstone  Lake, 
not  calcareous,  like  those  of  Gardiner's  River ;  yet 
the  system  of  terraces  built  up  by  the  deposit  on  the 
hill-slope  has  the  same  appearance  of  a  cataract 
plunging  over  a  series  of  natural  shelves  and  sud- 
denly turned  to  stone.  The  deposits  cover  an  area 
of  about  three  acres,  a  mere  trifle  compared  with 
the  square  miles  of  similar  formations  on  Gardiner's 
River  and  in  the  Yellowstone  Basin. 

In  the  same  neighborhood  is  a  system  of  bubbling 
mud-pools,  miniature  copies  of  those  on  the  Yellow- 
stone above  the  falls.     The  principal  group,  lying  in 


NATURAL   BISTORT    OF   QETSERS,  193 

a  ravine  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long,  is  described 
by  Dr.  Hochstetter  as  follows  : 

"  The  entrance  to  the  ravine  is  overgi-own  with  a 
thicket  and  rather  difficult  of  access  ;  it  also  requires 
considerable  caution,  as  suspicious  places  have  to  be 
passed,  where  the  visitor  is  in  danger  of  being  swal- 
lowed up  in  heated  mud.  Inside,  the  ravine  has  the 
appearance  of  a  volcanic  crater.  The  bare  walls, 
utterly  destitute  of  vegetation,  are  terribly  fissured 
and  torn,  and  odd-looking  rocky  serratures,  threat- 
ening every  moment  to  break  loose,  loom  up  like 
dismal  spectres  from  red,  white  and  blue  fumarole- 
clay — evidently  the  last  remains  of  decomposed 
rocks.  The  bottom  of  the  ravine  is  of  fine  mud,  scat- 
tered with  blocks  of  silicious  deposit,  Hke  cakes  of 
floating  ice  after  a  thaw.  Here,  a  big  caldron  of 
mud  is  simmering  ;  there,  lies  a  deep  basin  of  boil- 
ing water ;  next  to  this  is  a  terrible  hole,  emitting  his- 
sing jets  of  steam,  and  further  on  are  mud-cones 
from  two  to  five  feet  high,  vomiting  hot  mud  from 
their  craters  with  dull  rumblings,  and  imitating  on 
a  small  scale  the  play  of  large  fire  volcanoes."  The 
gay  colors  of  the  Yellowstone  mud-springs  are  fre- 
quently exhibited  in  the  volcanic  lake  district  of 
New  Zealand,  and  so  indeed  are  most  of  the  other 
phenomena  we  have  been  studying,  though  on  a  far 
less  magnificent  seal       For  example,  the  grandest 


194  WONDERS    OF   THE  YELLOWSTONE. 

•*  Firehole  basin"  on  the  island  occupies  the  Shallo"W 
valley  of  a  little  stream  the  Waikato,  for  the  distance 
of  a  mile.  It  is  but  a  cabinet  exhibition  compara- 
tively, yet  the  learned  geologist  of  the  Novara  expe- 
dition grows  eloquent  in  his  description  of  it.  "  La 
the  morning  a  dense  fog  lay  upon  the  Waikato,  but 
it  soon  vanished,  the  sun  shone  brightly  into  the 
valley,  and  now — what  a  sight !  In  its  swift  course, 
forming  rapids  after  rapids,  the  Waikato  was  plung- 
ing through  the  deep  valley  between  steep-rising 
mountains  ;  its  floods  whirling  and  foaming  round 
two  small  rocky  islands  in  the  middle  of  the  river, 
were  dashing  with  a  loud  uproar  through  the  defile 
of  the  valley.  Along  its  banks  white  clouds  of 
steam  were  ascending  from  hot  cascades  falling  into 
the  river,  and  from  basins  full  of  boiling  water  shut 
in  by  a  white  mass  of  stone.  Yonder  a  steaming 
fountain  was  rising  and  falling ;  now  there  sprung 
from  another  place  a  second  fountain ;  this  also 
ceased  in  its  turn ;  then  two  commenced  playing  si- 
multaneously, one  quite  low  at  the  river  bank,  the 
other  opposite  on  a  terrace  ;  and  thus  the  play  con- 
tinued with  endless  changes,  as  though  experiments 
were  being  made  with  grand  waterworks,  to  see 
whether  the  fountains  were  all  in  perfect  order,  and 
whether  the  waterfalls  had  a  sufficient  supply.  I 
began  to  count  the  places  where  a  boiling  water- 


NATURAL   HISTORY   OF    GEYSERS,  I95 

basin  was  visible,  or  where  a  cloud  of  steam  indicat- 
ed the  existence  of  one.  I  counted  seventy- six 
points,  without,  however,  being  able  to  survey  the 
whole  region,  and  among  them  were  numerous  inter- 
mittent geyser-like  fountains  with  periodical  erup- 
tions of  water." 

The  picture  is  admirably  drawn,  but  could  the 
artist  have  done  so  well  with  the  stupendous  chasm 
of  the  Grand  Canon?  or  the  thousand  volcanic 
vents  of  Firehole  Basin  with  their  deafening  detona- 
tions, theii  immeasurable  evolutions  of  water  and 
steam  ?  It  is  possible,  but  scarcely  probable.  The 
incomprehensible  grandeur  of  the  scene  would  have 
awed,  astounded,  bewildered  him,  and  like  our  Yel- 
lowstone explorers,  he  would  have  despau^ed  of 
grouping  the  myriad  marvels  into  one  grand  effect, 
and  contented  himself  with  setting  down  a  few  de- 
tails of  form  and  color. 

In  following  the  exploration  of  the  Yellowstone 
country  and  Firehole  Basin,  the  reader  has  doubt- 
less observed,  in  the  passage  from  the  quiet  springs  of 
Gardiner's  River  to  the  erupting  fountains  further 
on,  that  there  is  a  complete  change  in  the  nature  of 
the  deposits.  The  mounds  and  terraces  built  up  by 
the  former  have  for  their  basis  Ume^  those  of  the 
latter  silica.  Dr.  Hay  den  attributes  the  calcareous 
deposits  to  the  deep  bed  of  limestone  underlying  the 


196  WONDERS    OF   THE   YELLOWSTONE. 

springs,  but  not  all  waters  have  the  power  of  disolv- 
ing  hme  so  freelj,  nor  could  ordinary  water  take 
from  the  tr  achy  tic  lavas  below  the  sihcious  springs 
around  Yellowstone  Lake  and  in  the  Firehole  Basin, 
the  silica  that  appears  so  abundantly  in  their  depo- 
sits. There  must  be  other  forces  at  work.  What 
are  they  ?  "  Both  kinds  of  springs,"  says  Dr. 
Hochstetter,  in  his  chapter  on  New  Zealand  springs, 
"  owe  their  origin  to  the  water  permeating  the  sur- 
face and  sinking  through  fissures  into  the  bowels  of 
the  earth,  where  it  becomes  heated  by  the  still  ex- 
isting volcanic  fires.  High-pressure  steam  is  thus 
generated,  which,  accompanied  by  volcanic  gases — 
such  as  mui'iatic  acid,  sulphurous  acid,  sulphuretted 
hydrogen  and  carbonic  acid — rises  again  toward 
the  colder  surface  and  is  there  condensed  into  hot 
water.  The  overheated  steam  and  the  gases  decom- 
pose the  rock  beneath,  dissolving  certain  ingredients 
which  are  deposited  on  the  surface.  According  to 
Bunsen's  ingenious  observations,  a  chronological 
succession  takes  place  in  the  cooperation  of  the 
gases.  The  sulphurous  acid  acts  first.  It  is  gener- 
ated where  rising  sulphur  vapor  comes  in  contact 
with  glowing  masses  of  rock.  Wherever  vapors  of 
sulphurous  acid  are  constantly  formed,  there  acid- 
springs  or  solfataras  arise.  Incrustations  of  alum 
are  very  common  in  such  places,  arising  from  the 


NATURAL    HISTORY    OF   GEYSERS.  I97 

action  of  sulphuric  acid  on  the  alumina  and  alkali 
of  the  lavas ;  another  product  of  the  decomposition 
of  the  lavas  is  gypsum,  or  sulphate  of  lime,  the  re- 
siduum being  a  more  or  less  ferruginous  fumarole 
clay,  the  material  of  the  mud-pools.  After  the  sul- 
phurous acid  comes  sulphuretted  hydrogen,  pro- 
duced by  the  action  of  steam  on  sulphids  ;  and  by 
the  mutual  decomposition  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen 
and  sulphurous  acid  sulphur  is  formed,  the  charac- 
teristic precipitate  in  all  solfataras,  while  the  depo- 
sition of  silica  is  either  entirely  wanting  or  quite 
inconsiderable,  and  the  smell  of  sulphuretted  hy- 
drogen is  but  rarely  noticed.  These  acid  springs 
have  no  periodical  outbursts  of  water. 

In  course  of  time  the  source  of  sulphurous  acid 
becomes  exhausted,  and  sulphuretted  hydrogen 
alone  remains  active.  The  acid  reaction  of  the  soil 
disappears,  yielding  to  an  alkaline  reaction  by  the 
formation  of  sulphids.  At  the  same  time  carbonic 
acid  begins  to  act  upon  the  rocks,  and  the  alkaline 
bi-carbonates  thus  produced  dissolve  the  silica, 
which  on  the  evaporation  of  the  water  is  deposited 
in  the  form  of  opal  or  quartz  or  silicious  earth,  and 
thus  the  shell  of  the  springs  is  formed,  on  the  struc- 
ture of  which  the  periodicity  of  the  outburst  de- 
pends      The  deposition  of  silica  in  quantities 

sufficient  for  the  formation  of  this  spring-apparatus 


198  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONR 

in  the  course  of  years,  takes  place  only  in  the  alka- 
line springs.  Their  water  is  either  neutral  or  has 
a  shghtly  alkaline  reaction.  Silica,  common  salt, 
cai;bonates  and  sulphates  are  the  chief  ingredients 
dissolved  in  it.  In  the  place  of  sulphurous  acid  the 
odor  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen  is  sometimes  observed 

in   these   springs By  the   gradual   cooling 

of  the  volcanic  rocks  under  the  surface  of  the  earth 
the  hot  springs  themselves  gradually  die  out,  for 
they  too  are  but  a  transient  phenomenon  in  the 
eternal  change  of  created  things." 


CHAPTER  XV. 

BOJ.   EVEETS'S  THIETY-SEVEN  DAYS  OF  PERIL. 

ON  the  day  that  I  found  myself  separated  from 
the  company,  and  for  several  days  previous,  our 
course  had  been  impeded  by  the  dense  growth  of 
pine  forest,  and  occasional  large  tracts  of  fallen  tim- 
ber frequently  rendering  our  progress  almost  impos- 
sible.    Whenever  we  came  to  one  of  these  immense 
windfalls,  each  man  engaged  in  the  pursuit  of  a  pas- 
sage through  it,  and  it  was  while  thus  employed,  and 
with  the  idea  that  I  had  found  one,  that  I  strayed 
out  of  sight  and  hearing  of  my  comrades.     We  had 
had  a  toilsome  day.     It  was  quite  late  in  the  after- 
noon.    As  separations  like  these  had  frequently  oc- 
curred, it  gave  me  no  alarm,  and  I  rode  on,  fully 
confident  of  soon  rejoining  the  company,  or  of  find- 
ing their  camp.     I  came  up  with  the  pack-horse, 
which  Mr.  Langford  afterwards  recovered,  and  tried 
to  drive  him  along.     But  failing  to  do  so,  and  my 
eyesight  being  defective,  I  spurred  forward,  intend- 
ing to  return  with  assistance  from  the  party.     This 


200  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONE 

incident  tended  to  accelerate  my  speed.  I  rode  od 
in  the  direction  which  I  supposed  had  been  taken, 
until  darkness  overtook  me  in  the  dense  forest. 
This  was  disagreeable  enough,  but  caused  me  no 
alarm.  I  had  no  doubt  of  being  with  the  party  at 
breakfast  the  next  morning.  Is  elected  a  spot  for 
comfortable  repose,  picketed  my  horse,  built  a,  fire, 
and  went  to  sleep. 

The  next  morning  I  rose  at  early  dawn,  saddled 
and  mounted  my  horse,  and  took  my  course  in  the 
supposed  direction  of  the  camp.  Our  ride  of  the 
previous  day  had  been  up  a  peninsula  jutting  into 
the  lake,  for  the  shore  of  which  I  started,  with  the 
expectation  of  finding  my  friends  camped  on  the 
beach.  The  forest  was  quite  dark,  and  the  trees  so 
thick,  that  it  was  only  by  a  slow  process  I  could  get 
through  them  at  all.  In  searching  for  the  trail  I 
became  somewhat  confused.  The  falling  foliage  of 
the  pines  had  obliterated  every  trace  of  travel.  I 
was  obliged  frequently  to  dismount,  and  examine 
the  ground  for  the  faintest  indications.  Coming  to 
an  opening,  from  which  I  could  see  several  vistas, 
I  dismounted  for  the  purpose  of  selecting  one  lead- 
ing in  the  direction  I  had  chosen,  and  leaving  my 
horse  unhitched,  as  had  always  been  my  custom, 
walked  a  few  rods  into  the  forest.  While  survey- 
ing the  ground  my  hoi3e  took  fright,  and  1  turned 


THIBTY-SEVEli    DATS    OF    PERIL.  201 

around  in  tim6  to  see  him  disappearing  at  full 
speed  among  the  trees.  That  was  the  last  I  ever 
saw  of  him.  It  was  yet  quite  dark.  My  blankets, 
gun,  pistols,  fishing-tackle,  matches— everything, 
except  the  clothing  on  my  person,  a  couple  of 
knives,  and  a  small  opera-glass  were  attached  to  the 

saddle. 

I  did  not  yet  reahze  the  possibihty  of  a  perma- 
nent separation  from  the  company.  Instead  of  fol- 
lowing up  the  pursuit  of  their  camp,  I  engaged  in  an 
effort  to  recover  my  horse.  HaK  a  day's  search 
convinced  me  of  its  impracticability.  I  wrote  and 
posted  in  an  open  space  several  notices,  which,  if 
my  friends  should  chance  to  see,  would  inform  them 
of  my  condition  and  the  route  I  had  taken,  and 
then  struck  out  into  the  'orest  in  the  supposed  direc- 
tion of  their  camp.  As  the  day  wore  on  without  any 
discovery,  alarm  took  the  place  of  anxiety  at  the 
prospect  of  another  night  alone  in  the  wilderness, 
and  this  time  without  food  or  fire.  But  even  this 
dismal  foreboding  was  cheered  by  the  hope  that  I 
should  soon  rejoin  my  companions,  who  would 
laugh  at  my  adventure,  and  incorporate  it  as  a  thrill- 
ing episode  into  the  journal  of  our  trip.  The  bright 
side  of  a  misfortune,  as  I  found  by  experience,  even 
under  the  worst  possible  circumstances,  always  pre- 
sents some  features  of  encouragement.      When    I 


202  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONE. 

began  to  realize  that  my  condition  was  one  of  act- 
ual peril,  I  banished  from  my  mind  all  fear  of  an 
unfavorable  result.  Seating  myself  on  a  log,  I  re- 
called every  foot  of  the  way  I  had  travelled  since 
the  separation  from  my  friends,  and  the  most  prob- 
able opinion  I  could  form  of  their  whereabouts  was, 
that  they  had,  by  a  course  but  little  different  from 
mine,  passed  by  the  spot  where  I  had  posted  the 
notices,  learned  of  my  disaster,  and  were  waiting  for 
me  to  rejoin  them  there,  or  searching  for  me  in  that 
vicinity.  A  night  must  be  spent  amid  the  prostrate 
trunks  before  my  return  could  be  accomplished. 
At  no  time  during  my  period  of  exile  did  I  experi- 
ence so  much  mental  suffering  from  the  cravings 
of  hunger  as  when,  exhausted  with  this  long  day  of 
fruitless  search,  I  resigned  myself  to  a  couch  of 
pine  fohage  in  the  pitchy  darkness  of  a  thicket  of 
small  trees.  Naturally  timid  in  the  night,  I  fully 
reaUzed  the  exposure  of  my  condition.  I  peered  up- 
ward through  the  darkness,  but  all  was  blackness 
and  gloom.  The  wind  sighed  mournfully  through 
the  pines.  The  forest  seemed  alive  with  the  screech- 
ing of  night  birds,  the  angry  barking  of  coyotes, 
and  the  prolonged,  dismal  howl  of  the  gray  wolf. 
These  sounds,  famihar  by  their  constant  occurrence 
throughout  the  journey,  were  now  full  of  terror, 
and  drove   slumber  from  my  eye-lids,  but  above  all 


THIRTY-SEVEN  DAYS   OF  PERIL,  203 

fchis,  however,  was  the  hope  that  I  should  be  re- 
stored to  mj  comrades  the  next  day. 

Early  the  next  morning  I  rose  unrefreshed,  and 
pursued  my  weary  way  over  the  prostrate  trunks. 
It  was  noon  when  I  reached  the  spot  where  my  no- 
tices were  posted.  No  one  had  been  there.  My 
disappointment  was  almost  overwhelming.  For  the 
first  time,  I  reahzed  that  I  was  lost.  Then  came  a 
crushing  sense  of  destitution.  No  food,  no  hre  ;  no 
means  to  procure  either ;  alone  in  an  unexplored 
wilderness,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  fi'om  the 
nearest  human  abode,  surrounded  by  wild  beasts, 
and  famishing  with  hunger.  It  was  no  time  for  de- 
spondency. A  moment  afterwards  I  felt  how  cala- 
mity can  elevate  the  mind,  in  the  formation  of  the 
resolution  "  not  to  perish  in  that  wilderness." 

The  hope  of  finding  the  party  still  controlled  my 
plans.  I  thought,  by  traversing  the  peninsula  cen- 
trally, I  would  be  enabled  to  strike  the  shore  of  the 
lake  in  advance  of  their  camp,  and  near  the  point  of 
departure  for  the  Madison.  Acting  upon  this  im- 
pression, I  rose  from  a  sleepless  couch,  and  pursued 
my  way  through  the  timber- entangled  forest.  A 
feehng  of  weakness  took  the  place  of  hunger.  Con- 
scious of  the  need  of  food,  I  felt  no  cravings.  Oc- 
casionally, while  scrambhng  over  logs  and  through 
thickets,  a  sense  of  faintness  and  exhaustion  would 


204  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONK 

come  over  me,  but  I  would  suppress  it  with  the  aud- 
ible expression,  •'  This  won't  do ;  I  must  find  my 
company."  Despondency  would  sometimes  strive 
with  resolution  for  the  mastery  of  my  thoughts.  I 
would  think  of  home — of  my  daughter — and  of  the 
possible  chance  of  starvation,  or  death  in  some  more 
terrible  form ;  but  as  often  as  these  gloomy  fore- 
bodings came,  I  would  strive  to  banish  them  with 
reflections  better  adapted  to  my  immediate  necessi- 
ties. I  recollect  at  this  time  discussing  the  question, 
whether  there  w^as  not  implanted  by  Providence  in 
every  man  a  principle  of  self-preservation  equal  to 
any  emergency  which  did  not  destroy  his  reason.  I 
decided  this  question  affirmatively  a  thousand  times 
afterwards  in  my  wanderings,  and  I  record  this  ex- 
perience here,  that  any  person  who  reads  it,  should 
he  ever  find  himself  in  like  circumstances,  may  not 
despair.  There  is  life  in  the  thought.  It  will  revive 
hope,  allay  hunger,  renew  energy,  encourage  perse- 
verance, and,  as  I  have  proved  in  my  own  case, 
bring  a  man  out  of  difficulty,  when  nothing  else  can 
avail. 

It  was  mid-day  when  I  emerged  from  the  forest 
into  an  open  space  at  the  foot  of  the  peninsula.  A 
broad  lake  of  beautiful  curvature,  with  magnificent 
surroundings,  lay  before  me,  glittering  in  the  sun- 
beams.    It  was  full  twelve  miles  in  circumference. 


THIRTY-SEVEN  DATS  OF  PERIL.  205 

A  wide  belt  of  sand  formed  the  margin  which  I  was 
approaching,  directly  opposite  to  which,  rising  seem- 
ingly from  the  very  depths  of  the  water,  towered  the 
loftiest  peak  of  a  range  of  mountains  apparently  in- 
terminable. The  ascending  vapor  from  innumerable 
hot  springs,  and  the  sparkling  jet  of  a  single  geyser 
added  the  feature  of  novelty  to  one  of  the  grandest 
landscapes  I  ever  beheld.  Nor  was  the  life  of  the 
scene  less  noticeable  than  its  other  attractions. 
Large  flocks  of  swans  and  other  water-fowl  were 
sporting  on  the  quiet  surface  of  the  lake  ;  otters  in 
great  numbers  performed  the  most  amusing  aquatic 
evolutions  ;  mink  and  beaver  swam  around  unscared, 
in  most  grotesque  confusion.  Deer,  elk,  and  moun- 
tain sheep  stared  at  me,  manifesting  more  surprise 
than  fear  at  my  presence  among  them.  The  adja- 
cent forest  was  vocal  with  the  songs  of  birds,  chief 
of  which  were  the  chattering  notes  of  a  species  of 
mocking-bird,  whose  imitative  efforts  afforded  abun- 
dant merriment.  Seen  under  favorable  circumstan- 
ces, this  assemblage  of  grandeur,  beauty,  and  nov- 
elty would  have  been  transporting  ;  but  jaded  with 
travel,  famishing  with  hunger,  and  distressed  with 
anxiety,  I  was  in  no  humor  for  ecstasy.  My  tastes 
were  subdued  and  chastened  by  the  perils  which  en- 
vironed me.  I  longed  for  food,  friends,  and  protec- 
tion.    Associated  with  my  thoughts,  however,  waa 


206  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONK 

the  wish  that  some  of  my  friends  of  peculiar  tastes 
could  enjoy  this  display  of  secluded  magnificence, 
now,  probably,  for  the  first  time  beheld  by  mortal 
eyes. 

The  lake  was  at  least  one  thousand  feet  lower 
than  the  highest  point  of  the  peninsula,  and  several 
hundred  feet  below  the  level  of  Yellowstone  Lake. 
I  recognized  the  mountain  which  overshadowed  it 
as  the  landmark  which,  a  few  days  before,  had  re- 
ceived from  General  Washburn  the  name  of  Mount 
Everts ;  and  as  it  is  associated  with  some  of  the 
most  agreeable  and  terrible  incidents  of  my  exile,  I 
feci  that  I  have  more  than  a  mere  discoverer's  right 
to  the  perpetuity  of  that  christening.  The  lake  is 
fed  by  innumerable  small  streams  from  the  moun- 
tains, and  the  countless  hot  springs  surrounding  it. 
A  large  river  flows  from  it,  through  a  canon  a  thou  • 
sand  feet  in  height,  in  a  southeasterly  direction,  to 
a  distant  range  of  mountains,  which  I  conjectured 
to  be  Snake  River  ;  and  with  the  belief  that  I  had 
discovered  the  source  of  the  great  southern  tributary 
of  the  Columbia,  I  gave  it  the  name  of  Bessie  Lake, 
after  the 

**  Sole  daughter  of  my  house  and  heart" 

During  the  first  two  days,  the  fear  of  meeting 
with    Indians  c^ave  me  considerable  anxiety  ;   but. 


THIRTY-BEVEN  DATS   OF  PERIL.  20? 

when  conscious  of  being  lost,  there  was  nothing  I 
BO  much  desired  as  to  fall  in  with  a  lodge  of  Ban- 
nocks or  Crows.     Having  nothing  to  tempt  their  cu- 
pidity, they  would  do  me  no  personal  harm,  and, 
with  the  promise  of  reward,  would  probably  minis- 
ter to  my  wants  and  aid  my  dehverance.     Imagine 
my  dehght,  while  gazing  upcm  the  animated  expanse 
of  water,  at  seeing  sail  out  from  a  distant  point  a 
large  canoe  containing  a  single  oarsman.     It  was 
rapidly  approaching  the  shore  where  I  was  seated. 
With  hurried  steps  I  paced  the  beach  to  meet  it,  all 
my  energies  stimulated  by  the  assurance  it  gave  of 
food,  safety,  and  restoration  to  friends.     As  I  drew 
near  to  it  it  turned  towards  the  shore,  and  oh  !  bit- 
ter disappointment,  the  object  which  my  eager  fancy 
had  transformed  into  an  angel  of  relief  stalked  from 
the  water,  an  enormous  pehcan,  flapped  its  dragon- 
wings  as  if  in  mockery  of  my  sorrow,  and  flew  to  a 
soHtary  point  farther  up  the  lake.     This  little  inci- 
dent quite  unmanned  me.     The  transition  horn  joy 
to  grief  brought  with  it  a  terrible  consciousness  of 
the  horrors  of  my  condition.     But  night  was  fast 
aj>proaching,  and  darkness    would   come   with    it. 
While  looking  for  a  spot  where  I  might  repose  in 
safety,  my  attention  was  attracted  to  a  small  green 
plant  of  so  lively  a  hue  as  to  form  a  striking  con- 
trast with  the  deep  pine  fohage.     For  closer  exam- 


208  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONE, 

Laation  1  pulled  it  up  by  the  root,  which  was  long 
and  tapering,  not  unlike  a  radish.  It  was  a  thistle. 
I  tasted  it ;  it  was  palatable  and  nutritious.  My 
appetite  craved  it,  and  the  first  meal  in  four  days 
was  made  on  thistle-roots.  Eureka !  I  had  found 
food.  No  optical  illusion  deceived  me  this  time  ;  I 
could  subsist  until  I  rejoined  my  companions. 
Glorious  counterpoise  to  the  wretchedness  of  the 
preceding  half-hour  I 

Overjoyed  at  this  discovery,  with  hunger  allayed, 
I  stretched  myself  under  a  tree,  upon  the  foliage 
which  had  partially  filled  a  space  between  contigu- 
ous trunks,  and  fell  asleep.  How  long  I  slept  I 
know  not ;  but  suddenly  I  was  roused  by  a  loud, 
shrill  scream,  like  that  of  a  human  being  in  distress, 
poured,  seemingly,  into  the  very  portals  of  my  ear. 
There  was  no 'mistaking  that  fearful  voice.  I  had 
been  deceived  by  and  answered  it  a  dozen  times 
while  threading  the  forest,  with  the  belief  that  it 
was  a  friendly  signal.  It  was  the  screech  of  a  moun- 
tain Hon,  so  alarmingly  near  as  to  cause  every  nerve 
to  thrill  with  terror.  To  yell  in  return,  seize  with 
convulsive  grasp  the  limbs  of  the  friendly  tree,  and 
swing  myself  into  it,  was  the  work  of  a  moment. 
Scrambling  hurriedly  from  limb  to  limb,  I  was  soon 
as  near  the  top  as  safety  would  permit.  The  savage 
beast  was  snuffing  and  growHug  below,  apparently 


THIRTY-SEVE^  DAYS   OF  PERIL.  209 

on  the  very  spot  I  had  just  abandoned.  I  answered 
every  growl  with  a  responsive  scream,  Terrihed  at 
the  delay  and  pawing  of  the  beast,  I  increased  my 
voice  to  its  utmost  volume,  broke  branches  i'rom  the 
limbs,  and,  m  the  impotency  oi  fright, 'madly  hurled 
them  at  the  spot  whence  the  continued  howlings 

proceeded. 

Faihng  to  alarm  the  animal,  which  now  began  to 
make  the  circuit  of  the  tree,  as  if  to  select  a  spot 
for  springing  into  it,  I  shook,  with  a  strength  in- 
creased by  terror,  the  slender  trunk  until  every  hmb 
rustled  with  the  motion.  AH  in  vain.  The  terrible 
creature  pursued  his  walk  around  the  tree,  lashing 
the  ground  with  his  tail,  and  prolonging  his  howhngs 
almost  to  a  roar.  It  was  too  dark  to  see,  but  the 
movements  of  the  lion  kept  me  apprised  of  its  po- 
sition. Whenever  I  heard  it  on  one  side  of  the  tree 
I  speedily  changed  to  the  opposite — an  exercise 
which,  in  my  weakened  state,  I  could  only  have  per- 
formed under  the  impulse  of  terror.  I  would  alter- 
nately sweat  and  thrill  with  horror  at  the  thought 
of  being  torn  to  pieces  and  devoured  by  this  for- 
midable monster.  All  my  attempts  to  frighten  it 
seemed  unavaihng.  Disheartened  at  its  persistency, 
and  expecting  every  moment  it  would  take  the 
deadly  leap,  I  tried  to  collect  my  thoughts,  and  pre- 
pare for  the  fatal  encounter  which  I  knew  must  re- 


210  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONK 

suit.  Just  at  this  moment  it  occurred  to  me  lliat  1 
would  try  silence.  Clasping  the  trunk  of  the  tree 
with  both  arms,  I  sat  perfectly  still.  The  lion,  at 
this  time  ranging  round,  occasionally  snuffing  and 
pausing,  and  all  the  while  filling  the  forest  with  the 
echo  of  his  howlings,  suddenly  imitated  my  exam- 
ple. This  silence  was  more  terrible,  if  possible, 
than  the  clatter  and  crash  of  his  movements  through 
the  brushwood,  for  now  I  did  not  know  from  what 
direction  to  expect  his  attack.  Moments  passed 
with  me  like  hours.  After  a  lapse  of  time  which  I 
cannot  estimate,  the  beast  gave  a  spring  into  the 
thicket  and. ran  screaming  into  the  forest.  My  de- 
liverance was  eliected. 

Had  strength  permitted,  I  should  have  retained 
my  perch  till  daylight,  but  with  the  consciousness 
of  escape  from  the  jaws  of  the  ferocious  brute  came 
a  sense  of  overpowering  weakness  which  almost 
palsied  me,  and  made  my  descent  from  the  tree 
both  difficult  and  dangerous.  Incredible  as  it  may 
8eem,  I  lay  down  in  my  old  bed,  and  was  soon  lost 
in  a  slumber  so  profound  that  I  did  not  awake  until 
after  daylight.  The  experience  of  the  night  seemed 
like  a  terrible  dream  ;  but  the  broken  limbs  which 
in  the  agony  of  consternation  I  had  thrown  from 
the  tree,  and  the  rifts  made  in  the  fallen  foliage  by 
my  visitant  in  his  circumambulations,  were  too  con- 


THIRTY-SEVEN  DAYS    OF  PERIL.  211 

viucing  evidences  of  its  reality.  I  could  not  dwell 
upon  my  exposure  and  escape  without  shuddering, 
and  reflecting  that  probably  like  perils  would  often 
occur  under  less  fortunate  circumstances,  and  with 
a  more  fatal  issue.  I  wondered  what  fate  was  in 
reserve  for  me — whether  I  would  ultimately  sink 
from  exhaustion  and  perish  of  starvation,  or  be- 
come the  prey  of  some  of  the  ferocious  animals 
that  roamed  these  vast  fastnesses.  My  thoughts 
then  turned  to  the  loved  ones  at  home.  They  could 
never  know  my  fate,  and  would  indulge  a  thousand 
conjectures  concerning  it,  not  the  least  distressing 
of  which  would  be  that  I  had  been  captured  by  a 
band  of  hostile  Sioux,  and  tortured  to  death  at  the 
stake. 

I  was  roused  from  this  train  of  reflections  by  a 
marked  change  in  the  atmosphere.  One  of  those 
dreary  storms  of  mingled  snow  and  rain,  common 
to  these  high  latitudes,  set  in.  My  clothing,  which 
had  been  much  torn,  exposed  my  person  to  its 
"  pitiless  peltings."  An  easterly  wind,  rising  to  a 
gale,  admonished  me  that  it  would  be  furious  and 
of  long  duration.  None  of  the  discouragements  1 
had  met  with  dissipated  the  hope  of  rejoicing  my 
friends ;  but  foreseeing  the  delay,  now  unavoidable, 
I  knew  that  my  escape  from  the  wilderness  must  be 
(iCCompliKhed,  if  at  all,  by  my  own  unaided  exer 


212  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONE 

tions.  This  thouglit  was  terribly  afflicting,  and 
brought  before  me,  in  vivid  array,  all  the  dreadful 
realities  of  my  condition.  I  could  see  no  ray  of 
hope.  In  this  condition  of  mind  I  could  find  nc 
better  shelter  than  the  spreading  branches  of  a 
spruce  tree,  under  which,  covered  with  earth  and 
boughs,  I  la}^  during  the  two  succeeding,  days ;  the 
storm,  meanwhile,  raging  with  unabated  violence. 
While  thus  exposed,  and  suffering  from  cold  and 
hunger,  a  little  benumbed  bird,  not  larger  than  a 
snow-bird,  hopped  within  my  reach.  I  instantly 
seized  and  killed  it,  and,  plucking  its  feathers,  ate 
it  raw.  It  was  a  delicious  meal  for  a  half-starved 
man. 

Taking  advantage  of  a  lull  in  the  elements,  on 
the  morning  of  the  third  day  I  rose  early  and 
started  in  the  direction  of  a  large  group  of  hot 
springs  which  were  steaming  under  the  shadow  of 
Mount  Everts.  The  distance  I  travelled  could  not 
have  been  less  than  ten  miles.  Long  before  I 
reached  the  wonderful  cluster  of  natural  caldrons, 
the  storm  had  recommenced.  Chilled  through, 
with  my  clotliing  thoroughly  saturated,  I  lay  down 
under  a  tree  upon  the  heated  incrustation  until 
completely  warmed.  My  heels  and  the  sides  of  my 
feet  were  frozen.  As  soon  as  warmth  had  perme- 
ated  my   system,  and  I  had  quieted   my  appetite 


THIRTY-SEVEN  DATS    OF  PERIL.  213 

with  a  few  thistle-roots,  I  took  a  survey  of  ray  sur- 
roundings, and  selected  a  spot  between  two  springs 
sufficiently  asunder  to  afford  heat  at  my  head  and 
feet.  On  this  spot  I  built  a  bower  of  pine  branch- 
es, spread  its  incrusted  surface  with  fallen  foliage 
and  small  boughs,  anj  stowed  myself  away  to  await 
the  close  of  the  storm.  Thistles  were  abundant, 
and  I  had  fed  upon  them  long  enough  to  realize 
that  they  would,  for  a  while  at  least,  sustain  life. 
In  convenient  proximity  to  my  abode  was  a  small, 
round,  boiling  spring,  which  I  called  my  dinner- 
pot,  and  in  which,  from  time  to  time,  I  cooked  my 
roots. 

This  establishment,  the  best  I  could  improvise 
with  the  means  at  hand,  I  occupied  seven  days — 
the  first  three  of  which  were  darkened  by  one  of 
the  most  furious  storms  I  ever  saw.  The  vapor 
which  supplied  me  with  warmth  saturated  my 
clothing  with  its  condensations.  I  was  enveloped 
in  a  perpetual  steam  bath.  At  first  this  was  barely 
preferable  to  the  storm,  but  I  soon  became  accus- 
tomed to  it,  and  before  I  left,  though  thoroughly 
parboiled,  actually  enjoyed  it. 

I  had  little  else  to  do  during  my  imprisonment 
but  cook,  think,  and  sleep.  Of  the  variety  and 
strangeness  of  my  reflections  it  is  impossible  to 
give  the  faintest  conception.     Much  of   my  time 


214  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONE 

was  given  to  devising  means  for  escape.  I  recol 
lected  to  have  read,  at  the  time  of  their  pubhcation, 
the  narratives  of  Lieutenant  Strain  and  Doctor 
Kane,  and  derived  courage  and  hope  from  the  re- 
flection that  they  struggled  with  and  survived  perils 
not  unlike  those  which  environed  me.  The  chilhng 
thought  would  then  occur,  that  they  were  not  alone. 
They  had  companions  in  suffering  and  sympathy. 
Each  could  bear  his  share  of  the  burden  of  misery 
which  it  fell  to  my  lot  to  bear  alone,  and  make  it 
lighter  from  the  encouragement  of  mutual  counsel 
and  aid  in  a  cause  of  common  suffering.  Selfish  as 
the  thought  may  seem,  there  w^as  nothing  I  so 
much  desired  as  a  companion  in  misfortune.  How 
greatly  it  would  alleviate  my  distress !  What  a 
relief  it  would  be  to, compare  my  wretchedness  with 
that  of  a  brother  sufferer,  and  with  him  devise  ex- 
pedients for  every  exigency  as  it  occurred  !  I  con- 
fess to  the  weakness,  if  it  be  one,  of  having  squan- 
dered much  pity  upon  myself  during  the  time  I  had 
little  else  to  do. 

Nothing  gave  me  more  concern  than  the  want  of 
fire.  I  recalled  everything  I  had  ever  read  or 
heard  of  the  means  by  which  fire  could  be  pro- 
duced ;  but  none  of  them  were  within  mj  reach. 
An  escape  witliout  it  was  simply  impossible.  It 
was  indispensable  as  a   protection    against   night 


THIRTY-SEVEN    DAYS    OF    PERIL.  215 

attacks  from  wild  beasts.  Exposure  to  another 
storm  like  the  one  just  over  would  destroy  mv  iife^ 
as  this  one  would  have  done,  but  for  the  warmth 
derived  from  the  springs.  As  I  lay  in  my  bower 
anxiously  awaiting  the  disappearance  of  the  snow, 
which  had  fallen  to  the  depth  of  a  foot  or  more, 
and  impressed  with  the  belief  that  for  want  of 
fire  I  should  be  obliged  to  remain  among  the  springs, 
it  occurred  to  me  that  I  would  erect  some  sort  of 
monument,  which  might,  at  some  future  day,  inform 
a  casual  visitor  of  the  circumstances  under  which 
I  had  perished.  A  gleam  of  sunshine  lit  up  the 
bosom  of  the  lake,  and  with  it  the  thought  flashed 
upon  my  mind  that  I  could,  with  a  lens  from  my 
opera-glasses,  get  fire  from  Heaven.  Oh,  happy, 
life-renewing  thought  1  Instantly  subjecting  it  to 
the  test  of  experiment,  when  I  saw  the  smoke  curl 
from  the  bit  of  dry  wood  in  my  fingers,  I  felt,  if  the 
;vhole  world  were  offered  me  for  it,  I  would  cast  it 
all  aside  before  parting  with  that  little  spark.  I 
was  now  the  happy  possessor  of  food  and  fire. 
These  would  carry  me  through.  All  thoughts  of 
failure  were  instantly  abandoned.  Though  the 
food  was  barely  adequate  to  my  necessities — a  fact 
too  painfully  attested  by  my  attenuated  body — I 
had  forgotten  the  cravings  of  hunger,  and  had  the 


216  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONE. 

means  of  producing  fire.     I  said  to  myself,  "  I  will 
not  despair." 

My  stay  at  the  springs  was  prolonged  several 
days  by  an  accident  that  befell  me  on  the  third 
night  after  my  arrival  there.  An  unlucky  move- 
ment while  asleep  broke  the  crust  on  which  I  re- 
posed, and  the  hot  steam,  pouring  upon  my  hip, 
scalded  it  severely  before  I  could  escape.  This 
new  affliction,  added  to  my  frost-bitten  feet,  already 
festering,  was  the  cause  of  frequent  delay  and  un- 
ceasing pain  through  all  my  wanderings.  After 
obtaining  fire,  I  set  to  work  making  preparations 
for  as  early  departure  as  my  condition  would  per- 
mit. I  had  lost  both  knives  since  parting  from  the 
company,  but  I  now  made  a  convenient  substitute 
by  sharpening  the  tongue  of  a  buckle  which  I  cut 
from  my  vest.  With  this  I  cut  the  legs  and  coun- 
ters from  my  boots,  making  of  them  a  passable 
pair  of  slippers,  which  I  fastened  to  my  feet  as 
firmly  as  I  could  with  strips  of  bark.  With  the 
ravellings  of  a  linen  handkerchief,  aided  by  the 
magic  buckle-tongue,  I  mended  my  clothing.  Of 
the  same  material  I  made  a  fish-line,  which,  on 
finding  a  piece  of  red  tape  in  one  of  my  pockets 
better  suited  to  the  purpose,  I  abandoned  as  a 
*  bad  job."  I  made  of  a  pin  that  I  found  in  my 
coat  a  fish-hook,  and,  by  sewing  up  the  bottoms  of 


THIRTY-SEVEN   DAYS  OF    PERIL  217 

my  boot-legs,  constructed  a  very  good  pan  of 
pouches  to  carry  my  food  in,  fastening  them  to  my 
belt  by  the  straps. 

Thus  accountered,  on  the  morning  of  the  eighth 
day  after  my  arrival  at  the  springs  I  bade  them  a 
final  farewell,  and  started  on  my  course  directly 
across  that  portion  of  the  neck  of  the  peninsula  be- 
tween me  and  the  southeast  arm  of  Yellowstone 
Lake.  It  was  a  beautiful  morning.  The  sun  shone 
bright  and  warm,  and  there  was  a  freshness  in  the 
atmosphere  truly  exhilarating.  As  I  wandered  mu- 
singly along,  the  consciousness  of  being  alone,  and 
having  surrendered  all  hope  of  finding  my  friends, 
returned  upon  me  with  crushing  power.  I  felt,  too, 
that  those  friends,  by  the  necessities  of  their  condi- 
tion, had  been  compelled  to  abandon  all  efforts  for 
my  recovery.  The  thought  was  full  of  bitterness 
and  sorrow.  I  tried  to  realize  what  their  conjec- 
tures were  concerning  my  disappearance  ;  but  could 
derive  no  consolation  from  the  long  and  dismal 
train  of  circumstances  they  suggested.  Weakened 
by  a  long  fast,  and  the  unsatisfying  nature  of  the 
only  food  I  could  procure,  I  know  that  from  this 
time  onward  to  the  day  of  my  rescue,  my  mind, 
though  unimpaired  in  those  perceptions  needful  to 
self-preservation,  was  in  a  condition  to  receive  im- 
pressions akin  to  insanity.     I  was  constantly  travel 


218  WONDERS    OF   THE  YELLOWSTONE. 

ling  in  dream-land,  and  indulging  in  strange  reveries 
such  as  I  had  never  before  known.  I  seemed  to 
possess  a  sort  of  duality  of  being,  which,  while  con- 
stantly reminding  me  of  the  necessities  of  my  con- 
dition, fed  my  imagination  with  vagaries  of  the  most 
extravagant  character.  Nevertheless  I  was  perfectlj 
conscious  of  the  tendency  of  these  morbid  influences, 
and  often  tried  to  shake  them  off,  but  they  would 
ever  return  with  increased  force,  and  I  finally  rea- 
soned myself  into  the  behef  that  their  indulgence,  as 
it  afforded  me  pleasure,  could  work  no  harm  while 
it  did  not  interfere  with  my  plans  for  deliverance. 
Thus  I  lived  in  a  world  of  ideal  happiness,  and  in  a 
world  of  positive  suffering  at  the  same  time. 

A  change  in  the  wind  and  an  overcast  sky,  accom- 
panied by  cold,  brought  with  them  a  need  of 
warmth.  I  drew  out  my  lens  and  touchwood,  but 
alas !  there  was  no  sun.  I  sat  down  on  a  log  to 
await  his  friendly  appearance.  Hours  passed ;  he 
did  not  come.  Night,  cold  freezing  night,  set  in, 
and  found  me  exposed  to  all  its  terrors.  A  bleak 
hill-side  sparsely  covered  with  pines  afforded  poor 
accommodations  for  a  half-clad,  famishing  man.  1 
could  only  keep  from  freezing  by  the  most  active 
exertion  in  walking,  rubbing,  and  striking  my  be- 
numbed feet  and  hands  against  the  logs.  It  seem- 
ed the  longest,  most  terrible  night  of  my  life,  and 


THIRTY-SEVEN  DAYS    OF  PERIL.  219 

glad  was  I  when  the  approaching  dawn  enabled  me 
to  commence  retracing  my  steps  to  Bessie  Lake.  1 
arrived  there  at  noon,  built  my  first  fire  on  the 
beach,  and  remained  by  it,  recuperating  for  the  suc- 
ceeding two  days. 

The  faint  hope  that  my  friends  might  be  delayed 
by  their  search  for  me  until  I  could  rejoin  them 
now  forsook  me  altogether.     I  made  my  arrange- 
ments independent  of  it.     Either  of  three  directions 
I   might  take   would   effect   my  escape,  if  hfe  and 
strength  held  out.     I  drew   upon  the  sand  of  the 
beach  a  map  of  these  several  courses  with  reference 
to  my  starting-point  from  the  lake,  and  considered 
well  the  difficulties  each  would  present.     All  were 
sufficiently  defined  to  avoid  mistake.     One  was  to 
follow  Snake  River  a  distance  of  one  hundred  miles 
or  more  to  Eagle  Eock  bridge  ;  another,  to  cross  the 
country  between  the  southern  shore  of  YeUowstone 
Lake  and  the  Madison  Mountains,  by  scaling  which 
I  could  easily  reach  the  settlements  in  the  Madison 
Valley ;  and  the  other,  to  retrace  my  journey  over 
the  long  and  discouraging  route  by  which  I  had  en- 
tered the   country.     Of   these   routes  the  last  men- 
tioned seemed  the  least  inviting,  probably  because 
T  had  so  recently  traversed  it,  and  was  famiUar  with 
its  difficulties.     I  had  heard  and  read  so  much  con- 
cerning the  desolation  and  elemental  upheavals  and 


220  WONDERS    i^F   ThE    YELLOWSTONE 

Tiolent  waters  of  the  upper  valley  of  the  Snake, 
tliat  I  dared  rot  attempt  to  return  in  that  direction. 
The  route  by  the  Madison  Kange,  encumbered  by 
the  single  obstruction  of  the  mountain  barrier,  was 
much  the  shortest,  and  so  most  unwisely,  as  will 
hereafter  appear,  I  adopted  it. 

Filling  my  pouches  with  thistle-roots,  I  took  a 
parting  survey  of  the  httle  solitude  that  had  afforded 
me  food  and  fire  the  preceding  ten  days,  and  with 
something  of  that  melancholy  feeling  experienced  by 
one  who  leaves  his  home  to  grapple  with  untried 
adventures,  started  for  the  nearest  point  on  Yellow- 
stone Lake.  All  that  day  I  travelled  over  timber- 
heaps,  amid  tree  tops,  and  through  thickets.  At 
noon  I  took  the  precaution  to  obtain  fire.  With  a 
brand  which  I  kept  alive  by  frequent  blowing,  and 
constant  waving  to  and  fro,  at  a  late  hour  in  the 
afternoon,  faint  and  exhausted,  I  kiudled  a  fire  for 
the  night  on  the  only  vacant  spot  I  could  find  amid 
a  dense  wilderness  of  pines.  The  deep  gloom  of  the 
forest,  in  the  spectral  light  which  revealed  on  all 
sides  of  me  a  compact  and  unending  growth  of  trunks 
and  an  impervious  canopy  of  sombre  foliage ;  the 
shrieking  of  night-birds  ;  the  super  naturally  human 
scream  of  the  mountain  lion,  the  prolonged  howl  of 
the  woK,  made  me  insensible  to  all  other  forms  oi 
sufferiug. 


THIRTrSEVEN  DAYS   OF  PERIL.  221 

The  burn  on  my  hip  was  so  inflamed  that  I  could 
only  sleep  in  a  sitting  posture.  Seated  with  my 
back  against  a  tree,  the  smoke  from  the  fire  almost 
enveloping  me  in  its  suffocating  folds,  I  vainly  tried, 
amid  the  din  and  uproar  of  this  horrible  serenade, 
to  woo  the  drowsy  god.  My  imagination  was  in- 
stinct with  terror.  At  one  moment  it  seemed  as  if, 
in  the  density  of  a  thicket,  I  could  see  the  blazing 
eyes  of  a  formidable  forest  monster  fixed  upon  me, 
preparatory  to  a  deadly  leap  ;  at  another  I  fancied 
that  I  heard  the  swift  approach  of  a  pack  of  yelping 
wolves  through  the  distant  brushwood,  which  in  a 
few  moments  would  tear  me  limb  from  Hmb. 
Whenever,  by  fatigue  and  weakness,  my  terrors 
yielded  to  drowsiness,  the  least  noise  roused  me  to  a 
sense  of  the  hideousness  of  my  condition.  Once, 
in  a  fitful  slumber,  I  fell  forward  into  the  fire,  and 
inflicted  a  wretched  burn  on  my  hand.  Oh !  with 
what  agony  I  longed  for  day  ! 

A  bright  and  glorious  morning  succeeded  the  dis- 
mal night,  and  brought  with  it  the  conviction  that  I 
had  been  the  victim  of  uncontrollable  nervous  ex- 
citement. I  resolved  henceforth  to  banish  it  alto- 
gether, and,  in  much  better  spirits  than  I  anticipat- 
ed, resumed  my  journey  towards  the  lake.  Anothei 
day  of  unceasing  toil  among  the  tree- tops  and  thick 


222  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELjuOWSTONR 

ets  overtook  me,  near  sunset,  standing  upon  a  loft) 
beadland  jutting  into  the  lake,  and  commanding  a 
magnificent  prospect  of  the  mountains  and  valley 
over  an  immense  area.  In  front  of  me,  at  a  distance 
of  fifty  miles  away,  in  the  clear  blue  of  the  horizon, 
rose  the  arrowy  peaks  of  the  Three  Tetons.  On  the 
right,  and  apparently  in  close  proximity  to  the  emi- 
nence I  occupied,  rolled  the  picturesque  range  of  the 
Madison,  scarred  with  clefts,  ravines,  gorges,  and 
canons,  each  of  which  glittered  in  the  sunlight  or 
deepened  in  shadow  as  the  fitful  rays  of  the  des- 
cending luminary  glanced  along  their  varied  rocky 
irregularities.  Above  where  I  stood  were  the  lofty 
domes  of  Mounts  Langford  and  Doane,  marking  the 
limits  of  that  wonderful  barrier  which  had  so  long 
defied  human  power  in  its  efforts  to  subdue  it.  Eas- 
ing seemingly  from  the  promontory  which  favored 
my  vision  was  the  familiar  summit  of  Mount  Everts, 
at  the  base  of  which  I  had  dwelt  so  long,  and  which 
still  seemed  to  hold  me  within  its  friendly  shadow. 
All  the  vast  country  within  this  grand  enclosure  of 
mountains  and  lake,  scarred  and  seamed  with  the 
grotesque  ridges,  rocky  escarpments,  undulating  hil- 
locks, and  miniature  lakes,  and  steaming  with  hot 
springs,  produced  by  the  volcanic  forces  of  a  former 
era,  lay  spread  out  before  me  like  a  vast  panorama. 
I  doubt  if  distress  and  suffering  can  ever  entirely 


THIRTY-SEVEN'  DAYS  OF  PERIL.  223 

Dbliteraie  all  sense  of  natural  grandeur  and  magni- 
ficence.    Lost  in  the  wonder  and  admiration  inspired 
by  tins  vast  world  of  beauties,  I  nearly   forgot  to 
improve  the  few  moments  of  remaining  sunshine  to 
obtain  fire.     With  a  Ughted   brand  in   my  hand,  1 
Effected  a  most  difficult  and  arduous  descent  of  the 
abrupt  and  stony  headland  to  the  beach  of  the  lake. 
The  sand  was  soft  and  yielding.     I  kindled  a  fire, 
and  removing  the  stiffened  slippers  from  my  feet, 
attached  them  to  my  belt,  and  wandered  barefoot 
along  the  sandy  shore  to  gather  wood  for  the  night. 
The  dry,  warm  sand  was  most  grateful  to  my  lace- 
rated and  festering  feet,  and  for  a  long  time  after 
my  wood-pile  was  supphed,  I  sat  with  them  unco- 
vered.    At  length,  conscious  of  the  need  of  every 
possible  protection  from  the  freezing  night  atmos- 
phere, I  sought   my   belt  for  the   slippers,  and  one 
was  missing.     In  gathering  the  wood  it  had  become 
detached  and  was  lost.     Darkness  was  closing  over 
the  landscape,  when,  sorely  disheartened   with  the 
thought  of  passing  the  night  with  one  foot  exposed 
to   a  freezing   temperature,  I  commenced  a  search 
for  the  missmg  shpper.     I  knew  I  could  not  travel 
a  day  without  it.     Fearful  that  it  had  dropped  into 
the  lake,  and  been  carried  by  some  recurrent  wave 
beyond  recovery,  my  search  for  an  hour  among  fal- 
len   trees    and  bushes,  up  the  hill-side  and  along 


224  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTOyR 

the  beach,  in  darkness  and  with  flaming  brands,  at 
one  moment  crawling  on  hands  and  feet  into  a 
brush-heap,  another  peering  among  logs  and  bushes 
and  stones,  was  filled  with  anxiety  and  dismay 
Success  at  length  rewarded  my  perseverance,  and 
no  language  can  describe  the  joy  with  which  I 
drew  the  cause  of  so  much  distress  from  beneath 
the  limb  that,  as  I  passed,  had  torn  it  from  my  belt. 
With  a  feeling  of  great  relief  I  now  sat  down  in  the 
sand,  my  back  to  a  log,  and  listened  to  the  dash  and 
roar  of  the  waves.  It  was  a  wild  lullaby,  but  had 
no  terrors  for  a  worn-out  man.  I  never  passed  a 
night  of  more  refreshing  sleep.  When  I  awoke  my 
fire  was  extinguished  save  a  few  embers,  which  I 
soon  fanned  into  a  cheerful  flame.  I  ate  breakfast 
with  some  relish,  and  started  along  the  beach  in 
pursuit  of  a  camp,  believing  that  if  successful  I 
should  find  directions  what  to  do,  and  food  to  sus- 
tain me.  The  search  which  I  was  making  lay  in  the 
direction  of  my  pre-arranged  route  to  the  Madison 
Mountains,  which  I  intended  to  approach  at  their 
lowest  point  of  altitude. 

Buoyed  by  the  hope  of  finding  food  and  counsel, 
and  another  night  of  undisturbed  repose  in  the  sand, 
I  resumed  my  journey  along  the  shore,  and  at  noon 
found  the  camp  last  occupied  by  my  friends  on  the 
lake.     I  struck  their  trail  in  the  sand  some  time  be- 


TEIRTY-SEVEN   DAYS    OF  PERIL.  225 

fore  I  came  to  it.  A  thorough  search  for  food  in 
the  ground  and  trees  revealed  nothing,  and  no  no- 
tice to  apprise  me  of  their  movements  could  be  seen . 
A  dinner-fork,  which  afterwards  proved  to  be  of  in- 
finite service  in  digging  roots,  and  a  jeast-powder 
can,  which  would  hold  half  a  pint,  and  which  I  con- 
verted into  a  drinking-cup  and  dinner-pot,  were  the 
only  evidences  that  the  spot  had  ever  been  visited 
by  civilized  man.  "  Oh  !"  thought  I,  "  why  did  they 
forget  to  leave  me  food !"  It  never  occurred  to  me  that 
they  might  have  cached  it,  as  I  have  since  learned 
they  did,  in  several  spots  nearer  the  place  of  my  sep- 
aration from  them.  I  left  the  camp  in  deep  dejec- 
tion, with  the  purpose  of  following  the  trail  of  the 
party  to  the  Madison.  Carefully  inspecting  the 
faint  traces  left  of  their  course  of  travel,  I  became 
satisfied  that  from  some  cause  they  had  made  a  re- 
trograde movement  from  this  camp,  and  departed 
from  the  lake  at  a  point  farther  down  stream.  Tak- 
ing this  as  an  indication  that  there  were  obstruc- 
tions above,  I  commenced  retracing  my  steps  along 
the  beach.  An  hour  of  sunshine  in  the  afternoon 
enabled  me  to  procure  fire,  which,  in  the  usual  man- 
ner, I  carried  to  my  camping-place.  There  I  built 
a  fire,  and  to  protect  myself  from  the  wind,  which 
was  blowing  violently,  lashing  the  lake  into  foam,  I 
made  a  bower  of  pine  boughs,  crept  under  it,  and 


226  WONDERS   OF   THE   YELL0W8T0NK 

very  soon  fell  asleep.  How  long  I  slept  I  know  not, 
but  I  was  aroused  by  the  snapping  and  cracking  of 
the  burning  foliage,  to  find  my  shelter  and  the  adja- 
cent forest  in  a  broad  sheet  of  flame.  My  left  hand 
was  badly  burned,  and  my  hair  singed  closer  than 
a  barber  would  have  trimmed  it,  while  making  my 
escape  from  the  semicircle  of  burning  trees.  Among 
the  disasters  of  this  fire,  there  was  none  I  felt  more 
seriously  than  the  loss  of  my  buckle-tongue  knife, 
my  pin  fish-hook,  and  tape  fish-line. 

The  grandeur  of  the  burning  forest  surpasses  de- 
scription. An  immense  sheet  of  flame,  following  to 
their  tops  the  lofty  trees  of  an  almost  impenetrable 
pine  forest,  leaping  madly  from  top  to  top,  and  send- 
ing thousands  of  forked  tongues  a  hundred  feet  or 
more  athwart  the  midnight  darkness,  lighting  up 
with  lurid  gloom  and  glare  the  surrounding  scenery 
of  lake  and  mountains,  fills  the  beholder  with  min- 
gled feelings  of  awe  and  astonishment.  I  never  be- 
fore saw  anything  so  terribly  beautiful.  It  was 
marvellous  to  witness  the  flash-like  rapidity  with 
which  the  flames  would  mount  the  loftiest  trees. 
The  roaring,  cracking,  crashing,  and  snapping  of 
falling  limbs  and  burning  foliage  was  deafening. 
On,  on,  on  travelled  the  destructive  element,  until  it 
seemed  as  if  the  whole  forest  was  enveloped  in 
flame.     Afar  up  the  wood-crowned  hill,  the  overtop- 


Hf 


THIRTY- SEVEN   DAYS  OF    PERIL,  227 

ping  trees  shot  forth  pinnacles  and  walls  and  stream- 
ers of  arrowy  fire.  The  entire  hill-side  was  an  ocean 
of  glowing  and  surging  fiery  billows.  Favored  by 
the  gale,  the  conflagration  spread  with  hghtning 
swiftness  over  an  illimitable  extent  of  country, 
filling  the  atmosphere  with  driving  clouds  of  suffo- 
cating fume,  and  leaving  a  broad  and  blackened 
trail  of  spectral  trunks  shorn  of  Umbs  and  foliage, 
smoking  and  burning,  to  mark  the  immense  sweep 
of  its  devastation. 

Resolved  to  search  for  a  trail  no  longer,  when 
dayhght  came  I  selected  for  a  landmark  the  lowest 
notch  in  the  Madison  Range.  Carefully  surveying 
the  jagged  and  broken  surface  over  which  I  must 
travel  to  reach  it,  I  left  the  lake  and  pushed  into 
the  midst  of  its  intricacies.  All  the  day,  until  nearly 
sunset,  I  struggled  over  rugged  hills,  through  wind- 
falls, thickets,  and  matted  forests,  with  the  rock- 
ribbed  beacon  constantly  in  view.  As  I  advanced 
it  receded,  as  if  in  mockery  of  my  toil.  Night  over- 
took me  with  my  journey  half  accomplished.  The 
precaution  of  obtaining  fire  gave  me  warmth  and 
sleep,  and  long  before  dayhght  I  was  on  my  way. 
The  hope  of  finding  an  easy  pass  into  the  valley  of 
the  Madison  inspired  me  with  fi'esh  courage  and  de- 
termination ;  but  long  before  I  arrived  at  the  base 
of  the  range,  I  scanned  hopelessly  its  insurmountaole 


228  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONE 

difficulties.  It  presented  to  my  eager  vision  an  end- 
less succession  of  inaccessible  peaks  and  precipices, 
rising  thousands  of  feet  sheer  and  bare  above  the 
plain.  No  friendly  gorge  or  gully  or  canon  invited 
such  an  effort  as  I  could  make  to  scale  this  rocky 
barrier.  Oh  for  the  faith  that  could  remove  moun- 
tains !  How  soon  should  this  colossal  fabric  open 
at  my  approach !  What  a  feeling  of  helpless  de- 
spair came  over  me  with  the  conviction  that  the  jour- 
ney of  the  last  two  days  had  been  in  vain  !  I  seat- 
ed myself  on  a  rock  upon  the  summit  of  a  command- 
ing hill,  and  cast  my  eyes  along  the  only  route 
which  now  seemed  tenable — down  the  Yellowstone. 
How  many  dreary  miles  of  forest  and  mountain  filled 
the  terrible  panorama !  I  thought  that  before  ac- 
cepting this  discouraging  alternative  I  would  spend 
a  day  in  search  for  a  pass.  Twenty  miles  at  most 
would  take  me  into  the  Madison  Yalley,  and  thirty 
more  restore  me  to  friends  who  had  abundance. 
Supposing  that  I  should  find  plenty  of  thistles,  I 
had  left  the  lake  with  a  small  supply,  and  that  was 
entirely  spent.  I  looked  in  vain  for  them  where  I 
then  was. 

While  I  was  thus  considering  whether  to  remain 
and  search  for  a  passage  or  return  to  the  Yellow- 
stone, I  experienced  one  of  those  strange  hallucin 
ations  which  many  of  my  friends  have  misnamed 


THIliTY-SEVEN  DAYS  OF  PERIL.  229 

insanity,  but  which  to  me  was  Providence.  An  old 
clerical  friend,  for  whose  character  and  counsel  I 
had  always  cherished  peculiar  regard,  in  some  un- 
accountable manner  seemed  to  be  standing  before 
me,  charged  with  advice  which  would  relieve  my 
perplexity.  I  seemed  to  hear  him  say,  as  if  in  a 
voice  and  with  the  manner  of  authority  : 

*'  Go  back  immediately,  as  rapidly  as  your 
strength  will  permit.  There  is  no  food  here,  and 
the  idea  of  scaling  these  rocks  is  madness." 

"  Doctor,"  I  rejoined,  ''  the  distance  is  too  great. 
I  cannot  live  to  travel  it." 

"  Say  not  so.  Your  life  depends  upon  the  effort. 
Return  at  once.  Start  now,  lest  your  resolution 
falter.  Travel  as  fast  and  as  far  as  possible — it  is 
your  only  cliance." 

"  Doctor,  I  am  rejoiced  to  meet  you  in  this  hour 
of  distress,  but  doubt  the  wisdom  of  your  counsel. 
I  am  within  seventy  miles  of  Virginia.  Just  over 
these  rocks,  a  few  miles  away,  I  shall  find  friends. 
My  shoes  are  nearly  worn  out,  my  clothes  are  in 
tatters,  and  my  strength  is  almost  overcome.  As  a 
last  trial,  it  seems  to  me  I  can  but  attempt  to  scale 
this  mountain  or  perish  in  the  effort,  if  God  so 
wills." 

"  Don't  think  of  it.  Your  power  of  endurance 
will  carry  you   through.     I  will  accompany   you. 


230  WONDERS    OF   THE    YELLOWSTONE 

Put  your  trust  in  Heaven.     Help  yourself  and  God 
will  help  you." 

Overcome  by  these  and  other  persuasionSj  and 
delighted  with  the  idea  of  having  a  travelling  com- 
panion, I  plodded  my  way  over  the  route  I  had 
come,  intending  at  a  certain  point  to  change  it  so 
as  to  strike  the  river  at  the  foot  of  the  lake.  Stop- 
ping after  a  few  miles  of  travel,  I  had  no  difficulty 
in  procuring^ fire,  and  passed  a  comfortable  night. 
When  I  resumed  my  journey  the  next  day  the  sun 
was  just  rising.  Whenever  I  was  disposed,  as  was 
often  the  case,  to  question  the  wisdom  of  the 
change  of  routes,  my  old  friend  appeared  to  be 
near  with  words  of  encouragement,  but  his  reticence 
on  other  subjects  both  surprised  and  annoyed  me. 
I  was  impressed  at  times,  during  the  entire  journey 
with  the  belief  that  my  return  was  a  fatal  error 
and  if  my  deliverance  had  failed  should  have  per- 
ished with  that  conviction.  Early  this  day  I  de- 
flected from  my  old  route  and  took  my  course  for 
the  foot  of  the  lake,  with  the  hope,  by  constant 
travel,  to  reach  it  the  next  day.  The  distance  was 
greater  than  I  anticipated.  Nothing  is  more  de- 
ceptive than  distance  in  these  high  latitudes.  At 
the  close  of  each  of  the  two  succeeding  days,  my 
point  of  destination  was  seemingly  as  far  from  me 
as   at   the  moment  I  took  leave  of  the  Madison 


THIRTY-SEVEN  DATS    OF  PERIL,  231 

Range,  and  when,  cold  and  hungry,  on  the  after- 
noon of  the  fourth  day,  I  gathered  the  first  food  I 
had  eaten  in  nearly  five  days,  and  lay  down  by  my 
fire  near  the  debouchure  of  the  river,  I  had  nearly 
abandoned  all  hope  of  escape. 

At  daybreak  I  was  on  the  trail  down  the  river. 
The  thought  I  had  adopted  from  the  first,  "  I  will 
Dot  perish  in  this  wilderness,"  often  revived  my 
sinking  spirits,  when,  from  faintness  and  exhaus- 
tion, I  felt  but  little  desire  for  life.  Once,  while 
struggling  through  a  field  of  tangled  trunks  which 
seemed  interminable,  at  one  of  the  pauses  I  found 
myself  seriously  considering  whether  it  was  not 
preferable  to  die  there  than  renew  the  effort  to  pro- 
ceed. I  felt  that  all  attempt  to  escape  was  but  a 
bitter  prolongation  of  the  agony  of  dissolution.  A 
seeming  whisper  in  the  air,  "  While  there  is  life 
there  is  hope ;  take  courage,"  broke  the  delusion, 
and  I  clambered  on.  I  did  not  forget  to  improve 
the  mid-day  sun  to  procure  fire.  Sparks  from  the 
lighted  brands  had  burned  my  hands  and  crisped 
the  nails  of  my  fingers,  and  the  smoke  from  them 
had  tanned  my  face  to  the  complexion  of  an  Indian 
While  passing  through  an  opening  in  the  forest  I 
found  the  tip  of  a  gull's  wing ;  it  was  fresh.  I  made 
a  fire  upon  the  spot,  mashed  the  bones  with  a  stone, 
and  consigning  them  to  my  cami)  kettle^  the  yeast- 


232  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONE, 

powder  box,  made  half  a  pint  of  delicious  broth. 
The  remainder  of  that  day  and  the  night  ensuing 
were  given  to  sleep. 

I  lost  all  sense  of  time.  Days  and  nights  came 
and  went,  and  were  numbered  only  by  the  growing 
consciousness  that  I  was  gradually  starving.  1  felt 
no  hunger,  did  not  eat  to  appease  appetite,  but  to 
renew  strength.  I  experienced  but  little  pain.  The 
gapmg  sores  on  my  feet,  the  severe  burn  on  my  hip, 
the  festering  crevices  at  the  joints  of  my  fingers,  all 
terrible  in  appearance,  had  ceased  to  give  me  the 
least  concern.  The  roots  which  supplied  my  food 
had  suspended  the  digestive  power  of  the  stomach, 
and  their  fibres  were  packed  in  it  in  a  matted,  com- 
pact mass. 

Not  so  with  my  hours  of  slumber.  They  were 
visited  by  the  most  luxurious  dreams.  I  would  ap- 
parently visit  the  most  gorgeously  decorated  res- 
taurants of  New  York  and  Washington ;  sit  down 
to  immense  tables  spread  with  the  most  appetizing 
viands  ;  partake  of  the  richest  oyster  stews  and 
plumpest  pies ;  engage  myself  in  the  labor  and 
preparation  of  curious  dishes,  and  with  them  fill 
range  upon  range  of  elegantly  furnished  tables  un- 
til thej  fairly  groaned  beneath  the  accumulated 
dainties  prepared  by  my  own  hands.  Frequently 
the  entire  night  would  seem  to  have  been  spent  in 


THIRTY-SEVEN  DAYS  OF    PERIL.  233 

getting  up  a  sumptuous  dinner.  I  would  realize 
the  fatigue  of  roasting,  boiling,  baking,  and  fabri- 
cating the  choicest  dishes  known  to  the  modern 
cuisine,  and  in  my  disturbed  slumbers  would  enjoy 
with  epicurean  relish  the  food  thus  furnished  even 
to  repletion.  Alas  !  there  was  more  luxury  than 
life  in  these  somnolent  vagaries. 

It  was  a  cold,  gloomy  day  when  I  arrived  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  falls.  The  sky  was  overcast  and  the 
snow-capped  peaks  rose  chilly  and  bleak  through 
the  biting  atmosphere.  The  moaning  of  the  wind 
through  the  pines,  mingling  with  the  sullen  roar  of 
the  falls,  was  strangely  in  unison  with  my  own  sad- 
dened feelings.  I  had  no  heart  to  gaze  upon  a 
scene  which  a  few  weeks  before  had  inspired  me 
with  rapture  and  awe.  One  moment  of  sunshine 
was  of  more  value  to  me  than  all  the  marvels  amid 
which  I  was  famishing.  But  the  sun  had  hid  his 
face  and  denied  me  all  hope  of  obtaining  fire.  The 
only  alternative  was  to  seek  shelter  in  a  thicket.  I 
penetrated  the  forest  a  long  distance  before  finding 
one  that  suited  me.  Breaking  and  crowding  my 
way  into  its  very  midst,  I  cleared  a  spot  large 
enough  to  recline  upon,  interlaced  the  surrounding 
brushwood,  gathered  the  fallen  foliage  into  a  bed, 
and  lay  down  with  a  prayer  for  sleep  and  forgetful- 
ness.   Alas  !  neither  came.    The  coldness  increased 


234  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONR 

through   the   night.     Constant    friction    with    mj* 
hands  and  unceasing  beating  with  mj  legs  and  feet 
saved  me  from  freezing.     It  was  the  most  terrible 
night   of   my   journey,  and  when,  with   the   early 
dawn,  I  pulled  myself  into   a  standing  posture,  it 
was  to  realize  that  my  right  arm  was  partially  par- 
alyzed, and  my  limbs  so  stiffened  with  cold  as  to  be 
almost  immovable.     Fearing  lest  paralysis  should 
suddenly  seize  upon  the  entire  system,  I  literally 
dragged   myself   through  the  forest   to  the  river. 
Seated  near  the  verge  of  the  great  canon  below  the 
falls,  I  anxiously  awaited  the  appearance  of  the 
sun.     That  great  luminary  never  looked  so  beauti- 
ful as  \Nhen,a  few  moments  afterwards,  he  emerged 
from  the  clouds  and  exposed  his  glowing  beams  to 
the  concentrating  powers  of  my  lens.     I  kindled  a 
mighty  flame,  fed  it  with  every  dry  stick  and  bro- 
ken tree-top  I  could  find,  and  without  motion,  and 
almost  without  sense,  remained   beside  it  several 
hours.     The  great  falls  of   the  Yellowstone   were 
roaring  within  three  hundred  yards,  and  the  awful 
caiion  yawned  almost  at  my  feet;  but  they  had  lost 
all  charm  for  me.    In  fact,  I  regarded  them  as  ene- 
mies which  had  lured  me  to  destruction,  and  felt  a 
sullen  satisfaction  in  morbid  indifference. 

My  old  friend  and  adviser,  whose  presence  I  had 
felt  more  than  seen  the  last  few  days,  now  forsook 


THIRTY-SEVEN  DAYS    OF  PERIL.  235 

me  altogether.  But  I  was  not  alone.  By  some 
process  which  I  was  too  weak  to  solve,  my  arms, 
legs,  and  stomach  were  transformed  into  so  many 
travelling  companions.  Often  for  hours  I  would 
plod  along  conversing  with  these  imaginary  friends 
Each  had  his  peculiar  wants  which  he  expected  me 
to  supply.  The  stomach  was  importunate  in  his 
demand  for  a  change  of  diet — complained  inces- 
santly of  the  roots  I  fed  him,  their  present  effect 
and  more  remote  consequences.  I  would  try  to 
silence  him  with  promises,  beg  of  him  to  wait  a 
few  days,  and  when  this  failed  of  the  quiet  I  de- 
sired, I  would  seek  to  intimidate  him  by  declaring, 
as  a  sure  result  of  negligence,  our  inability  to  reach 
home  alive.  All  to  no  purpose — he  tormented  me 
with  his  fretful  humors  through  the  entire  journey. 
The  others  would  generally  concur  with  him  in 
these  fancied  altercations.  The  legs  implored  me 
for  rest,  and  the  arms  complained  that  I  gave  them 
too  much  to  do.  Troublesome  as  they  were,  it  was 
a  pleasure  to  realize  their  presence.  I  worked  for 
them,  too,  with  right  good  will,  doing  many  things 
for  their  seeming  comfort  which,  had  I  felt  myself 
alone,  would  have  remained  undone.  They  ap- 
peared to  be  perfectly  helpless  of  themselves ; 
would  do  nothing  for  me  or  for  each  other.  I  often 
wondered,  while  they  ate  and  slept  so   much,  that 


236  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONE. 

they  did  not  aid  in  gathering  wood  and  kindling 
fires.  As  a  counterpoise  to  their  own  inertia,  when- 
ever they  discovered  languor  in  me  on  necessary 
occasions,  they  were  not  wanting  in  words  of  en- 
couragement and  cheer.  I  recall  as  I  write,  an  in- 
stance where,  by  prompt  and  timely  interposition, 
the  representative  of  the  stomach  saved  me  from  a 
death  of  dreadful  agony.  One  day  I  came  to  a 
small  stream  issuing  from  a  sprmg  of  mild  temper- 
ature on  the  hillside,  swarming  with  minnows.  1 
caught  some  with  my  hands,  and  ate  them  raw. 
To  my  taste  they  were  delicious.  But  the  stomach 
refused  them,  accused  me  of  attempting  to  poison 
him,  and  would  not  be  reconciled  until  I  had  emp- 
tied my  pouch  of  the  few  fish  I  had  put  there  for 
future  use.  Those  that  I  ate  made  me  very  sick. 
Poisoned  by  the  mineral  in  the  water,  had  I  glut- 
ted my  appetite  with  them  as  I  intended,  I  should 
doubtless  have  died  in  the  wilderness,  in  excruciat- 
ing torment. 

A  gradual  mental  introversion  grew  upon  me  as 
physical  weakness  increased.  The  grand  and 
massive  scenery  which,  on  the  upward  journey,  had 
aroused  every  enthusiastic  impulse  of  my  nature, 
was  now  tame  and  spiritless.  My  thoughts  were 
turned  in  upon  myself — upon  the  dreadful  fate 
which  apparently  lay  just  before  me — and  the  pos- 


o 

I— ( 

o 

o 

o 


"^  t -:,.,::;:i!iiiiliM^ 


THIRTY-SEVEN  DAYS    OF  PERIL.  287 

sible  happiness  of  the  existence  beyond.  All  doubt 
of  immortality  fled  in  the  light  of  present  realities. 
So  vivid  were  my  conceptions  of  the  future  that  at 
times  I  longed  for  death,  not  less  as  the  beginning 
of  happiness  than  as  a  release  from  misery.  Led 
on  by  these  reflections,  I  would  recall  the  varied 
incidents  of  my  journey — my  escape  from  the  lion, 
from  fire,  my  return  from  the  Madison  Range — and 
in  all  of  them  I  saw  how  much  I  had  been  indebted 
to  that  mysterious  protection  which  comes  only 
from  the  throne  of  the  Eternal.  And  yet,  starving, 
foot-sore,  half  blind,  worn  to  a  skeleton,  was  it 
surprising  that  I  lacked  the  faith  needful  to  buoy 
me  above  the  dark  waters  of  despair,  which  I  now 
felt  were  closing  around  me  ? 

In  less  serious  moods,  as  I  struggled  along,  my 
thoughts  would  revert  to  the  single  being  on  whom 
my  holiest  afl'ections  centred — my  daughter.  What 
a  tie  was  that  to  bind  me  to  life !  Oh  !  could  I  be 
restored  to  her  for  a  single  hour,  long  enough  for 
parting  counsel  and  blessing,  it  would  be  joy  un- 
speakable !  Long  hours  of  painful  travel  were  re- 
lieved of  physical  suffering  by  this  absorbing  agony 
of  the  mind,  which,  when  from  my  present  stand- 
point I  contrast  it  with  the  personal  calamities  oi 
my  exile,  swells  into  mountains. 

To  return  from  this  digression.     At  many  of  the 


238  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONE. 

streams  on  mj  route  I  spent  hours  in  endeavoring 
to  catch  trout,  with  a  hook  fashioned  from  the  rim 
of  my  broken  spectacles,  but  in  no  instance  with 
success.  The  tackle  was  defective.  The  country 
was  full  of  game  in  great  variety.  I  saw  large 
herds  of  deer,  elk,  antelope,  occasionally  a  bear, 
and  many  smaller  animals.  Numerous  flocks  of 
ducks,  geese,  swans,  and  pelicans  inhabited  the 
lakes  and  rivers.  But  with  no  means  of  killing 
them,  their  presence  was  a  perpetual  aggravation. 
At  all  the  camps  of  our  company  I  stopped  and  re- 
called many  pleasant  incidents  associated  with 
them. 

One  afternoon,  when  approaching  '*  Tower  Palls," 
I  came  upon  a  large  hollow  tree,  which,  from  the 
numerous  tracks  surrounding  it,  and  the  matted 
foliage  in  the  cavity,  I  recognized  as  the  den  of  a 
bear.  It  was  a  most  inviting  couch.  Gathering  a 
needful  supply  of  wood  and  brush,  I  lighted  a  circle 
of  piles  around  the  tree,  crawled  into  the  nest,  and 
passed  a  night  of  unbroken  slumber.  I  rose  the 
next  morning  to  find  that  during  the  night  the  fires 
had  communicated  with  the  adjacent  forest,  and 
burned  a  large  space  in  all  directions,  doubtless  in- 
timidating the  rightful  proprietor  of  the  nest,  and 
saving  me  from  another  midnight  adventure. 

At  "  Tower  Falls  "  I  spent  the  first  half  of  a 


THIETY-SEVEN    DATS    OF    PERIL.  239 

day  in  capturing  a  grasshopper,  and  the  remainder 
in  a  fruitless  effort  to  catch  a  mess  of  trout.  In 
the  agony  of  disappointment,  I  resolved  to  fish  no 
more.  A  spirit  of  rebellion  seized  me.  I  deter- 
mined that  thistles  should  thenceforth  be  my  only 
sustenance.  "  Why  is  it,"  I  asked  of  myself,  "  that 
in  the  midst  of  abundance,  every  hour  meeting  with 
objects  which  would  restore  strength  and  vigor  and 
energy,  every  moment  contriving  some  device  to 
procure  the  nourishment  my  wasting  frame  required, 
I  should  meet  with  these  repeated  and  discourag- 
ing failures  ?"  Thoughts  of  the  early  teaching  of 
a  pious  mother  suppressed  these  feelings.  Oh  ! 
how  often  have  the  recollections  of  a  loved  New 
England  home,  and  the  memories  of  a  happy  child- 
hood, cheered  my  sinking  spirits,  and  dissipated 
the  gathering  gloom  of  despair!  There  were 
thoughts  and  feelings  and  mental  anguishes  with- 
out number,  that  visited  me  during  my  period  of 
trial,  that  never  can  be  known  to  any  but  my  God 
and  myself.  Bitter  as  was  my  experience,  it  was 
not  unrelieved  by  some  of  the  most  precious  mo- 
ments I  have  ever  known. 

Soon  after  leaving  "  Tower  Falls,"  I  entered  the 
open  country.  Pine  forests  and  windfalls  were 
changed  for  sago  brush  and  desolation,  with  occa- 
sional tracts  of  stunted  verdure,  barren  hillsides, 


240  WONDERS    OF   THE  YELLOWSTOiTS. 

exhibiting  here  and  there  an  isolated  chimp  oi 
dwarf  trees,  and  ravines  filled  with  the  rocky  debris 
of  adjacent  mountains.  My  first  camp  on  this  part 
of  the  route,  for  the  convenience  of  getting  wood, 
was  made  near  the  summit  of  a  range  of  towering 
foot-hills.  Towards  morning  a  storm  of  wind  and 
snow  nearly  extinguished  my  fire.  I  became  very 
cold ;  the  storm  was  still  raging  when  I  arose,  and 
the  ground  white  with  snow.  I  was  perfectly  be- 
wildered, and  had  lost  my  course  of  travel.  No 
visible  object,  seen  through  the  almost  blinding 
storm,  reassured  me,  and  there  was  no  alternative 
but  to  find  the  river  and  take  my  direction  from  its 
current.  Fortunately,  after  a  few  hours  of  stum- 
bling and  scrambling  among  rocks  and  over  crests, 
I  came  to  the  precipitous  side  of  the  canon  through 
which  it  ran,  and  with  much  labor,  both  of  hands 
and  feet,  descended  it  to  the  margin.  I  drank  co- 
piously of  its  pure  waters,  and  sat  beside  it  for  a 
long  time,  waiting  for  the  storm  to  abate,  so  that  I 
could  procure  fire.  The  day  wore  on,  without  any 
prospect  of  a  termination  to  the  storm.  Chilled 
through,  my  tattered  clothing  saturated,  I  saw  be- 
fore me  a  night  of  horrors  unless  I  returned  to  my 
fire.  The  scramble  up  the  side  of  the  rocky  canon, 
in  many  places  nearly  perpendicular,  was  the  hard- 
est work  of  my  journey.     Often,  while  clinging  to 


THIRTY-SEVEN  DATS    OF  PERIL.  241 

the  jutting  rocks  with  hands  and  feet,  to  reach  a 
shelving  projection,  my  grasp  would  unclose  and  I 
would  slide  many  feet  down  the  sharp  declivity.  It 
was  night  when,  sore  from  the  bruises  I  had  re- 
ceived, I  reached  my  fire  ;  the  storm,  still  raging, 
had  nearly  extinguished  it.  I  found  a  few  embers 
in  the  ashes,  and  with  much  difficulty  kindled  a 
flame.  Here,  on  this  bleak  mountain  side,  as  well 
as  I  now  remember,  I  must  have  passed  two  nights 
beside  the  Hre,  in  the  storm.  Many  times  during 
each  night  I  crawled  to  the  little  clump  of  trees  to 
gather  wood,  and  brush,  and  the  broken  limbs  of 
fallen  tree-tops.  All  the  sleep  I  obtained  was 
snatched  from  the  intervals  which  divided  these 
labors.  It  was  so  harassed  with  frightful  dreams 
as  to  afford  little  rest.  I  remember,  before  I  left 
this  camp,  stripping  up  my  sleeves  to  look  at  my 
shrunken  arms.  Flesh  and  blood  had  apparently 
left  them.  The  skin  clung  to  the  bones  like  wet 
parchment.  A  child's  hand  could  have  clasped 
them  from  wrist  to  shoulder.  "Yet,"  thought  I, 
*'  it  is  death  to  remain  ;  I  cannot  perish  in  this 
wilderness." 

Taking  counsel  of  this  early  formed  resolution,  I 
hobbled  on  my  course  through  the  snow,  which  was 
rapidly  disappearing  before  tlie  rays  of  the  warm 
8un.     Well  knowing  that  I  should  find  no  thistles 


242  WONDERS    OF    THE   YELLOWSTONE 

in  the  open  country,  I  had  filled  my  pouches  with 
them  before  leaving  the  forest.  My  supply  was 
running  low,  and  there  were  yet  several  days  of 
heavy  mountain  travel  between  me  and  Botelers* 
Ranch.  With  the  most  careful  economy,  it  could 
last  but  two  or  three  days  longer.  I  saw  the  ne- 
cessity of  placing  myself  and  imaginary  compan- 
ions upon  allowance.  The  conflict  which  ensued 
with  the  stomach,  when  I  announced  this  resolution, 
required  great  firmness  to  carry  through.  I  tried 
wheedling  and  coaxing  and  promising ;  failing  in 
these,  I  threatened  to  part  company  with  a  com- 
rade so  unreasonable,  and  he  made  no  further  com- 
plaint. 

Two  or  three  days  before  I  was  found,  while  as- 
cending a  steep  hill,  I  fell  from  exhaustion  into  the 
sage  brush,  without  the  power  to  rise.  Unbuck- 
ling my  belt,  as  was  my  custom,  I  soon  fell  asleep. 
I  have  no  idea  of  the  time  I  slept,  but  upon  awak- 
ing I  fastened  my  belt,  scrambled  to  my  feet,  and 
pursued  my  journey.  As  night  drew  on  I  selected 
a  camping-place,  gathered  wood  into  a  heap,  and 
felt  for  my  lens  to  procure  fire.  It  was  gone.  If 
the  earth  had  vawned  to  swallow  me  I  would  not 
have  been  more  terrified.  The  only  chance  for  life 
was  lost.  The  last  hope  had  fled.  I  seemed  to  feel 
the  grim  messenger  who  had  been  so  long  pursuing 


THIRTY-SEVEN  DA  FS   OF  PERIL.  243 

me  knocking  at  the  portals  of  my  heart  as  I  lay 
down  by  the  side  of  the  wood-pile,  and  covered 
myself  with  limbs  and  sage  brush,  with  the  dread- 
ful conviction  that  my  struggle  for  life  was  over, 
and  that  I  should  rise  no  more.  The  floodgates  ol 
misery  seemed  now  to  be  opened,  and  it  rushed  in 
a  living  tide  upon  my  soul.  With  the  rapidity  of 
lightning,  I  ran  over  every  event  of  my  life. 
Thoughts  doubled  and  trebled  upon  me,  until  I  saw, 
as  if  in  vision,  the  entire  past  of  my  existence.  It 
was  all  before  me,  as  if  painted  with  a  sunbeam, 
and  all  seemingly  faded  like  the  phantoms  of  a 
vivid  dream. 

As  calmness  returned,  reason  resumed  her  empire. 
Fortunately,  the  weather  was  comfortable.  I  sum- 
moned all  the  powers  of  my  memory,  thought  over 
every  foot  of  the  day's  travel,  and  concluded  that 
the  glass  must  have  become  detached  from  my  belt 
while  sleeping.  Five  long  miles  over  the  hills  must 
be  retraced  to  regain  it.  There  was  no  alternative, 
and  before  daylight  I  had  staggered  over  half  the 
distance.  I  found  the  lens  on  the  spot  where  I 
had  slept.  No  incident  of  my  journey  brought 
with  it  more  of  joy  and  rehef. 

Beturning  to  the  camp  of  the  previous  night,  I 
lighted  the  pile  1  had  prepared,  aud  lay  down  for 
a  night  to  rest.     It  was  very  cold,  and  towards 


244  WONDERS    OF    THE    TELLOWSTONK 

moruing  commenced  snowing.  With  diflSculty  1 
kept  the  fire  aUve.  Sleep  was  impossible.  When 
daylight  came,  I  was  impressed  with  the  idea  that 
I  must  go  on  despite  the  storm.  A  flash — momen- 
tary but  vivid — came  over  me,  that  I  should  be 
saved.  Snatching  a  lighted  brand,  I  started 
through  the  storm.  In  the  afternoon  the  storm 
abated  and  the  sun  shone  at  intervals.  Coming  to 
a  small  clump  of  trees,  I  set  to  work  to  prepare  a 
camp.  I  laid  the  brand  down  which  I  had  pre- 
served with  so  much  care,  to  pick  up  a  few  dry 
sticks  with  which  to  feed  it,  until  I  could  collect 
wood  for  a  camp-fire,  and  in  the  few  minutes  thus 
employed  it  expired.  I  sought  to  revive  it,  but 
every  spark  was  gone.  Clouds  obscured  the  sun, 
now  near  the  horizon,  and  the  prospect  of  another 
night  of  exposure  without  fire  becanae  fearfully 
imminent.  I  sat  down  with  my  lens  and  the  last 
remaining  piece  of  touchwood  I  possessed  to  catch 
a  gleam  of  sunshine,  feeling  that  my  life  depended 
on  it.  In  a  few  moments  the  cloud  passed,  and 
with  trembling  hands  I  presented  the  little  disk  to 
the  face  of  the  glowing  luminary.  Quivering  with 
excitement  lest  a  sudden  cload  should  interpose,  a 
moment  passed  before  I  could  hold  the  lens  steadily 
enough  to  concentrate  a  burning  focus.  At  length 
it  came,     The  little  thread  of  smoke  curled  grace- 


THIRTY-SEVEN  DATS  OF    PERIL.  245 

fully  upwards  from  the  Heaven-lighted  spark,  which^ 
a  few  moments  afterwards,  diffused  with  warmth 
and  comfort  mj  desolate  lodgings. 

I  resumed  my  journey  the  next  morning,  with  the 
belief  that  I  should  make  no  more  fires  with  my 
lens.  I  must  save  a  brand,  or  perish.  The  day 
was  raw  and  gusty ;  an  east  wind,  charged  with 
storm,  penetrated  my  nerves  with  irritating  keen- 
ness. After  walking  a  few  miles  the  storm  came 
on,  and  a  coldness  unlike  any  other  I  had  ever  felt 
seized  me.  It  entered  all  my  bones.  I  attempted 
to  build  a  fire,  but  could  not  make  it  burn.  Seizing 
a  brand,  I  stumbled  blindly  on,  stopping  within  the 
shadow  of  every  rock  and  clump  to  renew  energy 
for  a  final  conflict  for  life.  A  solemn  conviction 
that  death  was  near,  that  at  each  pause  I  made  my 
limbs  would  refuse  further  service,  and  that  I  should 
sink  helpless  and  dying  in  my  path,  overwhelmed 
me  with  terror.  Amid  all  this  tumult  of  the  mind, 
I  felt  that  I  had  done  all  that  man  could  do.  I 
knew  that  in  two  or  three  days  more  I  could  effect 
my  deliverance,  and  I  derived  no  little  satisfaction 
from  the  thought  that,  as  I  was  now  in  the  broad 
trail,  my  remains  would  be  found,  and  my  friends 
relieved  of  doubt  as  to  my  fate.  Once  only  the 
thought  flashed  across  my  mind  that  I  should  be 
saved,  and  I  seemed  to  hear  a  whispered  command 


246  WONDERS    OF   THE    lELLOWSTONK 

to  **  struggle  on."  Groping  along  the  side  of  a 
hill,  I  became  suddenly  sensible  of  a  sharp  reflec- 
tion, as  of  burnished  steel.  Looking  up,  throagh 
half-closed  eyes,  two  rough  but  kindly  faces  met 
my  gaze. 

"  Are  you  Mr.  Everts  ?" 

"  Yes.    All  that  is  left  of  him." 

"  We  have  come  for  you." 

"  Who  sent  you  ?" 

"  Judge  Lawrence  and  other  friends. " 

"  God  bless  him,  and  them,  and  you !  I  am 
saved  I"  and  with  these  words,  powerless  of  further 
effort,  I  fell  forward  into  the  arms  of  my  preservers, 
in  a  state  of  unconsciousness.  I  was  saved.  On 
the  very  brink  of  the  river  which  divides  the  known 
from  the  unknown,  strong  arms  snatched  me  from 
the  final  plunge,  and  kind  ministrations  wooed  me 
back  to  life 

Baronet  and  Prichette,  my  two  preservers,  by  the 
usual  appliances,  soon  restored  me  to  conscious- 
ness, made  a  camp  upon  the  spot,  and  while  one 
went  to  Fort  Ellis,  a  distance  of  seventy  miles,  to 
return  with  remedies  to  restore  digestion  and  an 
ambulance  to  convey  me  to  that  post,  the  other  sat 
by  my  side,  and  with  all  the  care,  sympathy,  and 
Bolicitude  of  a  brother,  ministered  to  my  frequent 
necessities,     In  two  days  I  was  sufficiently  recov- 


THIRTY-SEVEN  DAYS   OF  PERIL.  247 

ered  in  strength  to  be  moTed  twenty  miles  down 
the  trail  to  the  cabin  of  some  miners  who  were 
prospecting  in  that  vicinity.  From  these  men  I 
received  every  possible  attention  which  their  hu- 
mane and  generous  natures  could  devise.  A  good 
bed  was  provided,  game  was  killed  to  make  broth, 
and  the  best  stores  of  their  larder  placed  at  my 
command.  For  four  days,  at  a  time  when  every 
day's  labor  was  invaluable  in  theii  pursuit,  they 
abandoned  their  work  to  aid  in  my  restoration. 
Owing  to  the  protracted  inaction  of  the  system,  and 
the  long  period  which  must  transpire  before  Prich- 
ette's  return  with  remedies,  my  friends  had  serious 
doubts  of  my  recovery. 

The  night  after  my  arrival  at  the  cabin,  while  suf- 
tering  the  most  excruciating  agony,  and  thinking 
that  I  had  only  been  saved  to  die  among  friends,  a 
loud  knock  was  heard  at  the  cabin  door.  An  old 
man  in  mountain  costume  entered — a  hunter,  whose 
life  was  spent  among  the  mountains.  He  was  on 
his  way  to  find  a  brother.  He  listened  to  the  story 
of  my  sufferings,  and  tears  rapidly  coursed  each 
other  down  his  rough,  weather-beaten  face.  But 
when  he  was  told  of  my  present  necessity,  brighten- 
mg  in  a  moment,  he  exclaimed ; 

"  Why,  Lord  bless  you,  if  that  is  all,  I  have  the 


248  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONE 

'  very  remedy  you  need.  In  two  hours'  time  all 
shall  be  well  with  you." 

He  left  the  cabin,  returning  in  a  moment  with  a 
sack  filled  with  the  fat  of  a  bear  which  he  had  killed 
a  few  hours  before.  From  this  he  rendered  out  a 
pint  measure  of  oil.  I  drank  the  whole  of  it.  It 
proved  to  be  the  needed  remedy,  and  the  next  day, 
freed  from  pain,  with  appetite  and  digestion  re- 
established, I  felt  that  good  food  and  plenty  of  it 
were  only  necessary  for  an  early  recovery. 

In  a  day  or  two  I  took  leave  of  my  kind  friends, 
with  a  feeling  of  regret  at  parting,  and  of  gratitude 
for  their  kindness  as  enduring  as  life. 

Meeting  the  carriage  on  my  way,  I  proceded  to 
Boseman,  where  I  remained  among  old  friends, 
who  gave  me  every  attention  until  my  health  was 
sufficiently  restored  to  allow  me  to  return  to  my 
home  at  Helena. 

My  heartfelt  thanks  are  due  to  the  members  of 
the  expedition,  all  of  whom  devoted  seven,  and  some 
of  them  twelve  days  to  the  search  for  me  before 
they  left  Yellowstone  Lake ;  and  to  Judge  Lawrence, 
of  Helena,  and  the  friends  who  co-operated  with 
him  in  the  offer  of  reward  which  sent  Baronet  and 
Prichette  to  my  rescue. 

My  narrative  is  finished.  In  the  course  of  events 
the  time  is  not  far  distant  when  the  wonders  of  the 


THIRTY-SEVEN   DAYS    OF  PERIL.  249 

Yellowstone  will  be  made  accessible  to  all  lovers 
of  sublimity,  grandeur,  and  novelty  in  natural 
scenery,  and  its  majestic  waters  become  the  abode 
of  civilization  and  refinement;  and  when  that  ar- 
rives, I  hope,  in  happier  mood  and  under  more 
auspicious  circumstances,  to  revisit  scenes  fraught 
for  me  with  such  thrilling  interest ;  to  ramble  along 
the  glowing  beach  of  Bessie  Lake ;  to  sit  down 
amid  the  hot  springs  under  the  shadow  of  Mount 
Everts  ;  to  thread  unscared  the  mazy  forests,  retrace 
the  dreary  journey  to  the  Madison  Range,  and  with 
enraptured  fancy  gaze  upon  the  mingled  glories 
and  terrors  of  the  great  falls  and  marvellous  canon, 
and  to  enjoy,  in  happy  contrast  with  the  trials  they 
recall,  their  power  to  delight,  elevate,  and  over- 
whelm the  mind  with  wondrous  and  majestic 
beauty. 


CHAPTER  XVL 

THE  YELLOWSTONE  PARK. 

AS  soon  as  Dr.  Hayden  could  make  known  of- 
ficially the  results  of  his  exploration  of  the 
Yellowstone  Basin,  action  was  begun  to  secure  the 
reservation  of  a  portion  at  least  of  the  marvellous 
scenes  which  it  embraces,  for  the  undivided  benefit, 
enjoyment  and  instruction  of  the  country  at  large. 

A  bill  to  this  effect  was  introduced  into  the  Senate 
of  the  United  States,  on  the  18th  of  December,  1871, 
by  Hon.  S.  C.  Pomeroy  of  Kansas.  About  the 
same  time  a  similar  bill  was  offered  in  the  House  of 
Representatives  by  Hon.  Wilham  H.  Claggett,  dele- 
gate from  Montana.  The  bill  was  referred  to  the 
Committees  on  Public  Lands  in  both  houses,  who 
after  due  consideration  returned  with  approbation 
the  following  report  prepared  by  Dr.  Hayden  : 

"  The  bill  now  before  Congress  has  for  its  object 
the  withdrawal  from  settlement,  occupancy,  or  sale, 
under  the  laws  of  the  United  States,  a  tract  of  land 
fifty-five  by  sixty-five  miles,  about  the  sources  of  th.9 


THE    YELLOWSTONE  PARK,  251 

Yellowstone  and  Missouri  Kivers,  and  de'lif-ates 
and  sets  it  apart  as  a  great  national  park  oi  pleas- 
ure-ground for  the  benefit  and  enjoyment  of  the 
people.  The  entire  area  comprises  within  the  U- 
mits  of  the  reservation  contemplated  in  this  bill  is 
not  susceptible  of  cultivation  with  any  degree  of  cer- 
tainty, and  the  winters  would  be  too  severe  foi 
stock-raising.  Whenever  the  altitude  of  the  moun- 
tain districts  exceeds  6,000  feet  above  tide- water, 
their  settlement  becomes  problematical  unless  there 
are  valuable  mines  to  attract  people.  The  entire 
area  within  the  limits  of  the  proposed  reservation  is 
over  6,000  feet  in  altitude,  and  the  Yellowstone 
Lake,  which  occupies  an  area  fifteen  by  twenty-two 
miles,  or  three  hundred  and  thirty  square  miles,  is 
7,427  feet.  The  ranges  of  mountains  that  hem  the 
valleys  in  on  every  side  rise  to  the  height  of  10,000 
and  12,000  feet  and  are  covered  with  snow  aU  the 
year.  These  mountains  are  all  of  volcanic  origin, 
and  it  is  not  probable  that  any  mines  or  minerals  of 
value  will  ever  be  found  there.  During  the  months 
of  June,  July,  and  August  the  chmate  is  pure  and 
most  invigorating,  with  scarcely  any  rain  or  storms 
of  any  kind,  but  the  thermometer  frequently  sinks  as 
low  as  26°.  There  is  frost  every  month  of  the  year. 
This  whole  region  was,  in  comparatively  modern 
Qjeological  times,  the  scene  of  the  most  wonderful 


WONDERS    OF   TEE  YELLOWSTONE 

volcanic  activity  of  any  portion  of  our  country.  The 
hot  springs  and  the  geysers  represent  the  last  stages 
— the  vents  or  escape-pipes — of  these  remarkable 
volcanic  manifestations  of  the  internal  forces.  All 
these  springs  are  adorned  with  decorations  more 
beautiful  than  human  art  ever  conceived,  and  which 
have  required  thousands  of  years  for  the  canning 
hand  of  nature  to  form.  Persons  are  now  waitin^^ 
for  the  spring  to  open  to  enter  in  and  take  posses- 
sion of  these  remarkable  curiosities,  to  make  mer- 
chandise of  these  beautiful  specimens,  to  fence  m 
these  rare  wonders,  so  as  to  charge  visitors  a  fee,  as 
is  now  done  at  Niagara  Falls,  for  the  sight  of  that 
which  ought  to  be  as  free  as  the  air  or  water. 

In  a  few  years  this  region  will  be  a  place  of  resort 
for  all  classes  of  people  from  all  portions  of  the 
world.  The  geysers  of  Iceland,  which  have  been 
objects  of  interest  for  the  scientific  men  and  travel- 
lers of  the  entire  world,  sink  into  insignificance 
in  comparison  with  the  hot  springs  of  the  Yel- 
lowstone and  Firehole  Basins.  As  a  place  of 
resort  for  invahds,  it  will  not  be  excelled  by  any 

portion  of  the  world.  If  this  bill  fails  to  become 
a  law  this  session,  the  vandals  who  are  now  wait- 
ing to  enter  into  this  wonder-land  will,  in  a  sin- 
gle season,  despoil,  beyond  recovery,  these  re- 
markable curiosities,  which    have  required  all   the 


THE  GIANTESS. 


THE    YELLOWSTONE   PARK,  253 

cunning  skill  of  nature  thousands  of  years  to  pre- 
pare. 

We  have  already  shown  that  no  portion  of  this 
tract  can  ever  be  made  available  for  agricultural  or 
mining  purposes.  Even  if  the  altitude  and  the  ch- 
mate  would  permit  the  country  to  be  made  available, 
not  over  fifty  square  miles  of  the  entire  area  could 
ever  be  settled.  The  valleys  are  all  narrow,  hem- 
med in  by  high  volcanic  mountains  Hke  gigantic 
walls. 

The  withdrawal  of  this  tract,  therefore,  from  sale 
or  settlement  takes  nothing  from  the  value  of  the 
pubUc  domain,  and  is  no  pecuniary  loss  to  the  Go- 
vernment, but  will  be  regarded  by  the  entire  civil- 
ized world  as  a  step  of  progress  and  an  honor  to 
Congress  and  the  nation." 

In  the  Senate  the  bill  was  ably  advocated  by 
Messrs.  Pomeroy,  Edmunds,  Trumbull,  Anthony 
and  others.  In  the  House  the  favorable  remarks  of 
Hon.  H.  L.  Dawes  were  so  clear  and  forcible  that 
the  bill  was  passed  without  opposition. 

The  text  of  the  Act  is  as  follows  : 

"  Be  it  enacted  by  the  Senate  and  House  of  Bepresent- 
citives  of  the  United  Slates  of  America  in  Congress  as- 
sembledj  That  the  tract  of  land  in  the  Territories  of 
Montana  and  Wyoming,  lying  near  the  head- waters 


254  WONDERS  OF  THE  YELLOWSTONE. 

of  the  Yellowstone  River,  and  described  as  follows, 
to  wit,  commencing  at  the  junction  of   Gardiner's 
Uiver  with  the  Yellowstone  River,  and  running  east 
to  the  meridian  passing  ten  miles  to  the  eastward 
of  the  most  eastern  point  of    Yellowstone    Lake  ; 
thence  south  along  said  meridian   to   the   parallel 
of   latitude  passing  ten   miles  south   of   the   most 
southern  point  of  Yellowstone  Lake  ;   thence  west 
alon^  said  parallel  to  the  meridian  passing   fifteen 
miles  west  of  the  most  western  point  of  Madison 
Lake ;  thence  north  along  said  meridian  to  the  lati- 
tude of  the  junction  of  the  Yellowstone  and  Gardi- 
ner's River ;  thence  east  to  the  place  of  beginning,  is 
hereby  reserved    and  withdrawn  from   settlement, 
occupancy,  or  sale  under  the  laws  of  the   United 
States,  and  dedicated  and  set   apart   as   a    public 
park  or  pleasuring-ground  for  the  benefit  and  en- 
joyment of  the  people ;  and  all  persons  who  shall 
locate  or  settle  upon  or  occupy  the  same,  or  any 
part  thereof,  except  as  hereinafter  provided,  shall 
be     considered     trespassers     and    removed   there- 
from. 

"  Sec.  2.  That  said  public  park  shall  be  under  the 
exclusive  control  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Literior, 
whose  duty  it  shall  be,  as  soon  as  practicable,  to 
make  and  publish  such  rules  and  regulations  as  he 
may  deem   necessary  or  proper  for    the   care   and 


THE    YELLOWSTONE  PARK.  255 

management  of  the  same.  Such  regulations  shall 
provide  for  the  preservation,  fi'om  injury  or  spoH- 
ation,  of  all  timber,  mineral  deposits,  natural  curi- 
osities or  wonders  within  said  park,  and  their  re- 
tention in  their  natural  condition.  The  Secretary 
may,  in  his  discretion,  grant  leases  for  building 
purposes  for  terms  not  exceeding  ten  years,  of  small 
parcels  of  ground,  at  such  places  in  said  park  as 
shall  require  the  erection  of  buildings  for  the  accom- 
modation of  visitors ;  all  of  the  proceeds  of  said 
leases,  and  all  other  revenues  that  may  be  derived 
from  any  source  connected  with  said  park,  to.be  ex- 
pended under  his  direction  in  the  management  of 
the  same,  and  the  construction  of  roads  and  bridle- 
paths therein.  He  shall  provide  against  the  wan- 
ton destruction  of  the  fish  and  game  found  within 
said,  park,  and  against  their  capture  or  destruction 
for  the  purposes  of  merchandise  or  profit.  He 
shall  also  cause  all  persons  trespassing  upon  the 
same  after  the  passage  of  this  act  to  be  removed 
therefrom,  and  generally  shall  be  authorized  to 
take  all  such  measures  as  shall  be  necessary  or 
proper  to  fully  carry  out  the  objects  and  purposes 
of  this  act " 

This  Act  was  approved  March  1 ,  1872 ;  and  shortly 
after    the    Hon.   N.   P.   T  angford,    whose    graphic 


256  WONDERS    OF    THE    YELLOWS  TOIfS. 

descriptions  of  the  WoDclers  of  the  Yellowst<»nfi 
first  called  public  attention  thereto,  was  appointor 
Superintendent  of  the  Park. 


Compiled  cavci  di-cur-n^  hi^ i;.JIai-^e<s'h^tiruiv 


c 


Department  of  the  Interior 
U.S.Geolog-ical  Sm-vey  of  the  Territories 

YELLOWSTONE   NATIONAL    PARK 

From  Surveys  made  under  the  directioa  of 
F.V.HAYDEN 

U.S.Geolog-ist 

And  other  authoi-ities 

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